A Journey to Jerusalem:
Or, A Relation Of The Travels Of Fourteen Englishmen,
In The Year, 1669

From Scanderoon, to Tripoly, Joppa, Ramah, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho, the River Jordan, the Dead Sea; and back again to Aleppo.

With an Exact Account of all the Remarkable Places and Things in their whole Journey.
In a Letter from T. B. in Aleppo, to his friend in London.

Together with a Map, and a brief Account of the Ancient and
Modern State of those Countries.

London, Printed by T. M. for N. Crouch in Exchange-Alley
over against the Royal Exchange in Cornhil, 1672.

To the Reader

This Relation comming to my Hands, I thought it might be some Diversion, to observe what the Ignorant are made to Believe, of those once Famous Places.
And though others have formerly Treated of these Parts, yet we have hardly had an Exact Account since Mr. Sandy's, which being so long since, No doubt some things are Altered, some Wornout of Memory, and it may be, many more Legends Added, According as it may stand with the Interest and Profit of the Priests.
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To The Reader

If the Stile be not so Polite and Curious, as might be Wisht, I dare Assure the Reader that the Author never intended it for Public View, but Writ it only as a Letter, to satisfy the desire of his Intimate Friends; wherein Men do not commonly so much Study Elloquence, as plainness and Truth; The last whereof I Suppose the Author is Guilty of, because he had no Temptation to do Otherwise; for I think it is not much Material to him, whether it be Believed or noe. And therefore you may Read, and Judg of it as you Please.
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A Brief Definition of Palestine, with an Account
of the Ancient and Modern State of those Countries.

In former Ages, this was One of the most Famous of Provinces of Syria: Called, First, The Land of Canaan, from Canaan the Son of Cham, who by his often Chaffings,
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was driven to Possess and Inhabite the same.
Secondly, It was called the Land of Promise, because the Lord had promised it to the Patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, and their Seed.
Thirdly, Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was sur-named Israel.
Fourthly, Judea, from the Jews, or People of the tribe of Juda.
Fifthly, Palestine, by Ptolomays and others, quasi Philistini: The Land of the Philistines, a potent Nation that dwelt there.
Sixthly, The Holy Land, so Named by the Christians, because herein was Wrought by Christ, the Work of our Salvation.
This Country is Situated in the midst of the World, Between the Third and Fourth Climates, the longest Day being Fourteen Hours and a quarter, between the Midland Sea and Arabia, from which it is Bulwarked beyond Jordan with a continual Ridg of Mountaines; on the East lyes Celosgoia, and Arabia Petrea; on the South Idumea, the Wilderness of Pharam and Egypt; in the West a part of Phenicia, and the rest, hath the Mediterranean-Sea; and on the North are the Mountaines of Libanus, and a part of Phenicia: It is distant from the Equinoctial Thirty one Degrees, extending to Thirty Three; so that in length from Dan unto Bersheba, it containeth not more then Four Hundred Miles; and where it
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is broadest, not Fifty.
This Famous Land was once commended above all Countries under the Sun, especially in regard of the Ayr, being Seated under a Temperate Clime, where the Winter is not too Cold, nor the Summer too Hot; and for Fertility, a Land that Floweth with Milk and Hony, Adorned with Beautiful Mountaines, and delightful Valleys; the Rock producing Excellent Waters, and no part empty of Delight or Profit; for the Soyle yields abundance of all Fruits and Increase.
This Land aboundeth in sweet Springs, and pleasant Pastures; where they feed a great many Flocks of Sheep, and herds of Cattle and Cowes which give excellent Milk as is in any Country in the World; There is also brave Hunting and Hawking; for Deere, Goats, Hares, Partridges, Quailes, and other Birds. Likewise, they have all kind of Fowle, also there are great stores of Lyons, Beares and Wolves, found in Aboundance.
The Land of Canaan was heretofore divided into Thirty Kingdomes, and Kings when the Israelites Conquered it; the most of the Ancient inhabitants being for their Sins by God Excluded the Land, and put to the Sword by the Israelites: The Israelites Ruled this Land, about Foure hundred Years, by Princes and Judges, till the time of Samuel:
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These Princes or Judges, were not all of one Tribe, but the Best, Gravest, and Eldest, were Selected, and Chosen out of every Tribe. Afterwards the Israelites growing weary of this Government, at their Earnest request, the Lord appointed them a King, and so their Government was Changed into a Monarchie, which continued many Ages; but in process of time, the Israelites endured many Miseries, and Afflictions, till at last they saw the utter Ruine and subvertion of their Kingdome.
What Alteration hapened to this Nation, and with how many several Wars they were Plagued (either because of their own stifneckedness, that they would not be Obedient to their own Prince, or brook any foreign Government, or that for their Rebellion and Sins, the wrath of God was oftentimes Kindled against them; or that Forreigne Princes were Ambitious to Incorporate this happy Land, Holy Writ and Historiographers? Witness the fame at large; for how many times were they Subdued and brought into Slavery, and Bondage, because of their Sins, and that they did not Govern and behave themselves well? for sometimes their Necks were brought under the Yoakes of their Neighbours, as the Egyptians, Caldeans, Meads, Persians, Macedonians and Romans; yea, and would never cease by their Rebellions, Seditions, and Conspiracies, till they had brought

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their Government and Countrey to utter Destruction, by Persecuting and putting to Death, the Saints and Prophets, sent them from God; yea, and at last Crucifying the Son of God, the Lord of Glory, and the Saviour of man-kind, by their Horrible and Murderous Hands, and Nailing him to the Cross.
And finally, wishing that his Innocent Bloud should be on them and their Children; which accordingly soon after happened to the utter Desolation of their Countrey, the Romans laying wast, and levelling to the Ground, the magnificent Structures and Buildings thereof, destroying and burning Jerusalem, the Temple, and all the Ornaments

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thereof, so that herein was verified the Prophecy of Christ while he was upon the Earth, that one Stone should not be left upon Another.
And as for the People, Divine Venegance did continually pursue them 'till the most part of them were destroyed, and the rest Dispersed through out the World, even to this Day.
For, First, The Inhabitants of Cesarea slew of the Jews in one Day, about Twenty Thousand, and such as fled, were taken an Imprisoned by Florus the Leiutenant of Judea.
To Revenge this Slaughter, the Jews set upon the Syrians; in which Skirmish Thirteen Thousand of them were Slain. The People of Alexandria put Fifty

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Thousand of them to the Sword; They of Damascus ten Thousand of them: and Antonius a Roman Captain, slew in Ascalon Ten Thousand; and Cestius another Captain, slew Fourscore Thousand and Forty Persons. And now to come to the Wars managed here by Vespasian.
This Vespasan, in the Siege of Aphaea, slew and took Prisoners Seventeen Thousand, One Hundred and Thirty Persons: in Samaria, Eleaven Thousand Six Hundred Persons: and in Josipata Forty two Thousand two Hundred Persons. In Joppa so many killed and Drowned themselves, that the Sea threw up again Four Thousand two Hundred Person: and the rest so totally perished, that there remained none to

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Carry tydings to Jerusalem of the loss of the Town.
In the City of Tarichea, were Slain and made Captives, Forty five Thousand Persons, besides those which were given to the King Agrippa: In Gamala there perished Ninety Thousand, and none were left alive but only two Women. In Gascala Five Thousand Men died by the Sword. In the City of Gadara, there were Slain Thirty two Thousand two Hundred, besides an infinite number of such as Drowned themselves. In Jerusalem it self, there Died Eleven Hundred Thousand of them, partly by the Sword, and partly by Famine, the worse Enemy of the two; there were found two Thousand in Privies and Sinks; and Ninety Seven

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Thousands were taken prisoners, insomuch, that thirty Jews were sold for a Peny.
Now that Jerusalem was able to contain such a number of People, is evident, in that when Cestius was Lieutenant of Jury, the high Priest did, at his Request, number the People, which came to Eat of the Paschal Lamb, and found them to be two Millions, and Seven Hundred Thousand living Souls, all Sound and Purified.
And when Titus laid Seige to the City, it was at the Feast of the Passover, when most of the people were there Assembled; God as it were thus Imprisoning them.
All these Massacres, besides divers others Omitted, and infinite Numbers which were Slain in the Feilds and Villages, which Drowned themselves, and were privately made away, Amounting to almost two Millions of People, happened in the compass of foure Years, beginning in the twelfe of Nero, and ending in the second of Vespasian.
Yet was not the whole Nation Rooted out till the Year One Hundred Thirty Six. For then this Miserable People having stirred two notable Rebellions, First under Trajan, and afterward under Adrian the Emperours, they were generally Banished their Native Countrey, and never again suffered to inhabit it, but as Strangers.
After this Desolation, the Jews were dispersed all over the World and

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especially in Spain, where Adrian Commanded many of them to dwell; yet they found everywhere so little Favour, that having divers times been put to greivious Mulets and Ransomes, they were at last quite turnst out of Europe also.
The First Christian Prince that expelled the Jews out of his Territories, was that Heroick King, Our Edward the First, who was such a fore Scowrge also to the Scots; and it is thought, divers Families of those Banished Jews fled then to Scotland, where they have propagated since in great Numbers; Witness the Aversion this Nation hath above others to Hogs-Flesh.
Nor was this their Extermination for their Religion, but for their notorious Crimes; as poisoning of the Wells, Counterfeiting of Coins, falsifying of Seals, and Crucifying of Christian Children; with other Villanies. This happened in the Year One Thousand Two Hundred Ninety One.
And Sixteen Years after, France followed our Example.
It was neer two Hundred Years after, that Ferdinand turn'd them out of Spain, and five years after him, Emanuel of Portugal did the like.
But the Countreys from whence they were Last expelled, were Naples and Sicily, in the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Thirty Nine. In other parts of Christistiandome they reside yet, in great numbers, as in Germany High and Low; Bohemia, Lithuania, Poland,

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and Russia; In Italy also they are found, but in no Countrey which is subject to the King of Spain.
They live very quietly at Rome under the Popes nose, and St. Mark makes no Scruple to entertain them at Venice: In sundry places of the Ottoman Empire they are found very numerous; so that it is thought Constantinople and Thessalonica only, have near upon twenty Thousand of them.
Asia is full of them, as Aleppo, Tripoly, Damascus, Rhodes, and indeed all places of commerce and Traffique; There are numbers of them found also in Persia, Arabia, and about Cranganor in India.
And to come to Affrick, they have their Synagogues and Lumbards, in Alexandria, the Gran Cairo, as also in Fesse, in Tremiseu, and divers places in the Kingdome of Morocco: there are about one hundred Families left in Jerusalem. But the place where they are most unmingled, is Tiberias, which the Turks gave to Mendez the Jew, for some signal services; thither they oftentimes bring or send the bones of their dead friends, who have left large Legacies to be there interred from other places.
The City of Jerusalem was afterward re-edified by Elius Adriannus, and given to the Christians, from whom it was taken by Cosroes, and the Persians, in the Year Six Hundred Fifteen, and from them forcibly wrested by Haumar, and the Saracens, in the Year Six

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Hundred Thirty Seven. Next it fell into the power of Cutlumoses, and the Turks, in the Year One Thousand Nine; under whose oppression, when it had long groaned, Peter the Hermit stirred up the Westerne Princes to relieve the distressed Christians, whose designs attained their wished effect, under the Banner of the Victorious Prince, Godfrey of Bullen, in the Year One Thousand Ninety Nine. This Godfrey, for his merits, was to have been invested with the Royal Wreath of Majesty, which he denied, thinking it unfit to wear a Crown of Gold, where his Saviour had Worn a Crown of Thorns; yet for the Common good sake he accepted the Title; after whom reigned these Christian Princes.
Second, Baldwin. Third, Baldwin the Second. Fourth, Fulk Earl of Anjou. Fifth, Baldwin the Third. Six, Almerick. Seventh, Baldwin the Fourth. Eight, Baldwin the fifth. Ninth, Guy of Lusignan, the last King of Jerusalem; during whose time, Saladine the Sultan of Egypt, won the Kingdom, which his Successours defended against all invasions, till the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Seventeen, when Selinus the first Emperour of the Turks, added the Holy Land together with Egypt to his Empire: And so the whole Countrey of Palestine , with the City of Jerusalem, are under the dominion of the Turk to this day,

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and is inhabited by some Christians (who make a great benefit of shewing the Sepulcher of Christ) and of late Years also, by Moors, Arabians, Greek, Latines, Turks, Jews, nay, I may safely, and probably say, with People of all Nations.
The whole Land containeth Four Regions, Idumea, Judea, Samaria, and Galilee, Idumea, beginneth at Mount Cassius; or as some will, at the Lake Sirbon, reaching to the Eastward of Judea; The Cheif Cities are Maresa, Rhinocorura, Rapha, Antedon, Ascalon, Azotus, and Gaza.

Maresa was the birth-place of the Prophet Micha. Neer unto this town, Judas Machabeus overthrew Gorgius, Rhinocorura, Rapha, and Atedon, are towns of no great note. Of Ascalon Sir George Sandis writeth thus in his travels, That it is a place now of no great Reckoning, more then that the Turk doth keep there a garrison: Venerable heretofore amongst the heathen for the Temple of Dagon, and the Birth of Simiramis begotten of the Goddess Decreta, who enflamed with the love of a certaine youth, that Sacrificed unto her, and having by him a daughter, ashamed of her Incontinency did put him away, and Exposed the Child to the desarts, and Confounded with sorrow, threw her self into a lake replenished which fish, adjoining to the City: this Decreta is said to be that Dagon the Idol of the
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Agrotonites mentioned in the Scripture, which signifieth the first of sorrow: who had her Temple close by the Lake, with her Image in the figure of a Fish, excepting the Face, which resembled a woman; But the Infant nourished by Doves, which brought her Milk from the pailes of the Pastures: after became the wife of Ninus, and Queen of Assyria; whereupon she was called Semiramis, which signifieth a dove in the Syrian tongue: in memorial whereof the Babylonians did bear a Dove in their Ensignes, confirmed by the Prophesie of Jeremiah, who foretelling of the devastation of Judea, Adviseth them to flee from the sword of the dove.
Azotes, where was a Sumptuous Temple built to the Lieutenant to Demetrius: eight miles beyond that stands Acharon or Ekron, where Belzebub was worshipped, to whom Ahaziah sent to enquire of his health.
Lastly, Gaza or Aza, one of the five Principal Cities belonging to the Palastines (called Philistines in Scripture) Gaza signifieth Strong, and in the Persian, language a Treasury; So said to be called by Cambyses, who Invading Egypt, sent thither the riches Purchased in that War; it was also called Constantia by the Emperour Constantine, first famous for the acts of Sampson, who lived about the time of the Trojan Wars, whose force and fortunes are said to have given to the Poets their invention of Hercules,
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Who lived not long before him: And it was afterwards famous for two Wounds there received by Alexander the great, and was then counted the Chief of Syria.
Also there lyeth Joppa now Jofta, a Famous Mart Town, and a good Haven; where Jonah took Ship to fly to Tarsus, where Peter Raised Dorcas from Death to Life, and where he was lying in the House of one Simon a Tanner, was in a Vision, Taught the Conversion of the Gentiles. This City they report to have been built before the Flood. Here Reigned Cepheus the Son of Phenix, whose Daughter Andromeda was by Perseus delivered from a Sea Monster, some of whose Bones the people had wont to shew to Strangers, even till the Flourishing of the Romans: Here lyeth Gath also, the Country of the huge Giant Goliath.
Judea is the Chiefest part of Palestina, and is of the same extent now, as it was when it was the Kingdome of Judea, and entertained the two great and Puiffant Tribes of Judea and Benjamin. It lyeth between the Misland-Sea and Lacus Asphaltitis, or the Dead-Sea, and betwixt Samaria and Idumea: It took this name from the Tribe of Juda, in which lyeth the once famous City Jerusalem.
Besides Jerusalem also, there are in this Country divers other
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Towns and famous Cities; as Jericho, Turris Stratonis, afterward named Cesarea; Hebron formerly, now Arbea; also Mambre; and Carioth; that is to say, a Town of four Men, the Birth-place of Judas Iscariot, who betrayed our Savior Jesus Christ; Emaus, and divers others; and Beyond Jordan Makherus, a town with a strong Castle: here stood also the Towns of Sodom and Gomorah, which for their Sodomy and Abomination, were utterly destroyed and consumed with Fire from Heaven; and lyes now buried in that Cursed Lake Asphalites; so named of the Bitumen where it Vomiteth; called also the Dead-Sea, perhaps in that it nourisheth no living Creature, or for his heavy Waters hardly to be moved with any Wind; so Extreme Salt, that whatsoever is thrown thereinto, not easily Sinketh: Vaspatian for a tryal, causeth divers to be Cast in bound Hand and Foot, who Floted Aloft, as if Supported by some Spirit. They say, that Birds, Flying over it fall in as if Inchanted or Suffocated with the Poyson of the Ascending Vapors. Samaria lyeth in the Midst, between Judea, and Gallilea; the Land is so called from the Metrapolis Samaria, Built by Amry King of Israel, and now called Sebasta; which Towns in it, are Sichem, afterwards Named Neapolis, Capernaum, Betzaida and Chorazin.
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Galilea lyeth between Mount Labanus and Samaria, and is divided into upper and lower Galilea; Upper Galilea bordereth upon Tyrus, called otherwise Galilea-Gentium, or the Heathenish Galilea; Lower Galilea lyeth near unto the Lake of Tyberius, and to Nazareth: In it are the Towns of Naim, Cana, Nazareth and Gadara. The Holy Land is seated between two Seas, and the River Jordan; it hath within it many Navigable Lakes, and Meers, abounding with Fish; the River Jordan is called by the Hebrews, Jordan, and runneth through the Midst of this Countrey, dividing it into two Parts. St. Jerom Writeth that this River Springeth out of two fountains, not far distant one from the other; the one called Joe; the other Dan, shooting out like two Horns, which meeting together, make the Great River Jordan. The Chief Mountains in the Holy Land, are Mount Hermon, lying in the East part thereof, and Mount Tabor in the West, both of them being very Great and High, so that the other Hills about them, are but Armes and Branches of them: For the Mountaines Eball, Betheron, Mispa, or Maspha, and Bethel, are reckoned under Mount Hermon, Gilboa, Gerezin, Sarona, and Mount-Carmel by the Sea side, are counted under Mount Tabor.
There are also about Jerusalem, Mount Sion, Moriah, Mount

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Olivet, Mount Calvary, and others: Besides there are many Goodly Woods, and Forests, full of all kind of Deer, and many Wild Beasts.
In this land, especially in about and Jerusalem, there were many Stately and Magnificent Buildings, as Namely Mons Domus, and the Castle of the Jebusites, into which King David brought the Ark of the Lord, where it remained till Solomons Temple was Finished. The Glory and Magnificency thereof you may Read in the Scripture. The Temple of the Sepulcher at the first Building was highly Reverenced by the Christians of those parts, and even until this Day it is much resorted to, both by Pilgrims from all parts of the Romish Church,

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and also by divers Gentlemen of the Reformed Churches; partly for Curiosity, and partly for Antiquity of the place. It is Farmed from the Turks, and kept by the popes Creatures; whosoever is admitted to the fight of this Sepulcher, payeth Nine Crowns to the Turkish Officers: so that this Tribute is worth to the Grand Seignior, Eight Thousand Duccats Yearly.
And thus much briefly for the Description of the Holy Land, or Land of Promise.
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ALEPPO.

Honoured Sir,
These serve to Accompany an Account of my Journey to the Holy Land, for which I might refer you to others, who have given a most exact Relation of that Pilgrimage,
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Yet according to your desires, I present you with this my Description.
Tuesday May 3, 1669. We set Sail from Scanderoon, with a N.E. wind on the Margaret, Tho. Middleton Commander, being fourteen English Men, (of the Factory of Aleppo) in Company; but being forced to return three times, by contrary Winds, by May 10. We arrived at Trippoly, whose Port is guarded with six small Castles, near the Sea, and one great Castle upon the Land; and is defended from Tempests, on the West with Islands, and on the East, with a Cape of Land; so that none but a North wind can be

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prejudicial to Ships in this Port: the Ground is stony, which forc'd the Captains to buoy up their Cables, the ships riding in six or seven Fathom Water.
The Town is a about a mile from the Marine, situation upon the shelf of a Hill, and hath one good Castle for its defense; the Town is ruinate, and there were few People to be seen, at that time, it being the time of making white Silk, most of the People being in their Gardens.
May Thirteen, after three days Treatment by the Consul (for English, French and Dutch) with extraordinary Civility; about four of the clock in the afternoon, we set forward for Mount
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Lebanon, and two hours Riding from Trippoly, we pitched our Tent at the Village Coffersinue; the Inhabitants are Christians, and live in houses made of Reeds, and Covered with Bushes; and the Rode to this Village, is very good and pleasant, passing to it, through a Forrest of Olive Trees; and in the Valleys, are Gardens of Mulberries, with which they feed their Silk-Worms.
Friday May fourteenth, we departed from Coffersinue, about four of the clock in the morning, passing in a good Rode, and through Plains sowed with Wheat: about six of the Clock, we passed over several Mountains resembling Marble, if not really so;




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from which we had a very good Prospect of the fruitfulness of the Valleys: between these Mountains, upon the ascent of an Hill, we came to a Fountain where we breakfasted; at seven of the clock we rose from the Fountain, and having passed a very dangerous ragged Mountain, about nine of the Clock we came to Eden, a small Village, and extraordinary pleasantly seated, being surrounded with Mulberries, Walnuts, and other sorts of Trees; Walnut especially we found very common on this Mount: we went to the Bishops House, a most miserable ruinated Cottage, where the Bishop coming to bid us welcome,
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appeared more like a Dunghil-raker then a Bishop. We enquired whense this Village had its name, the Maronites (which generally inhabit the Mountains) say, this was the place where Adam committed the sin of Eating the Forbidden Fruit; but the Bishop told us, it was in Heaven, where there were three Trees, Adam being forbidden to eat of one of them which was the Fig tree: but having eaten, he fell from Heaven, and fell among the Cedars (which are some two hours riding from the Bishops house), and there he began to till the Ground. But the Bishop being very Ignorant of these things, we forbear to enquire farther. The Bishops have a great respect shewed them,

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every one Kissing his Hand on their Knees bareheaded: in his House he hath a ruinated Church, with an Altar in it; and a little beyond his house, is a little Chappel, neer the head of the Rivolet that feeds his house with water, where we found many men with Frank names, which had continued there from the Year 1611.
Mid-day coming, the Bishop made what Preparation his house would afford for Dinner, killing two Kids, and a Goat, and giving us the best Wine the Mountain did afford, being a well relished Red and White Wine.
Night coming, after Supper, we kiss'd his Hand; and next morning,
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we being now but twelve in Company, went to take our leave of him, and made him a present of Livers, besides something to the servants, as is usual for Pilgrims that take this Voyage; two of our Company waiting our return at Trippoly.
Saturday May the fifteenth, about five a Clock in the morning, we rose from thence, and about eight of the Clock we came to the Cedars; all that remain of them, being in a very small compass: We spent some time in cutting sticks, and setting our Names on the great Trees.
At this place there came to us the Captain of a Village, called Upshara, an hours riding from the

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Cedars. In our way, as we returned; he invited us to Dinner at his Village, which we accepted of, and after dinner made him a Present; This man is a Maronite, and takes Caffar or Toll of the Turks, which pass that way with their Sheep and Oxen; he hath a hundred Souldiers under his Command, who are all Christians.
About two a clock we mounted, and after three hours riding, we came to a mighty deep Descent, winding in and out, which is the way to the Patriark of the Maronites house, called Caunibone; it is a very good Convent, and lies under the Rocks, they have a Bell in the Church as in Europe, and goe to
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Their Devotions Morning and Evening: After we had kissed the Patriarks hand, we demanded what was to be seen, and the Druggerman carried us to see St. Marene's Grot, of whom they recount this Story.
'That a Venetian, in the time that the Franks had the Countrey, came with his wife and one daughter to live there; and after some years, his Wife dying, he was resolved to goe into the Covent and live a religious life, and would therefore have his Daughter to leave him; but his perswasions could not prevail with her; but rather than leave her Father, she would put on mans Apparrel, and live a devoted life with him

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also, which at last (though unwilling) he assented to (she being young and handsome;) there they lived very strictly for several years; afterward her Father dyed: And the lay Brothers and Fathers going out, as usually, to Till the ground; She seldome went with them, the Chief of the Convent keeping her at home (being much taken with such a handsome young msn as he thought) whereupon they began to grumble, that St. Marene did not go with them; so that at last, to satisfy the Fratres, he was sent out to work among them near the Village Turfa: presently after, one of the young Virgins of that Village

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proving with Child, she came to the Convent, and laid it to the charge of St. Marrena; who was thereupon presently excommunicated, and lived a Religious life in the Grot neer the Convent, for the space of 7 years; and being then again admitted into the Convent, & still continuing to live a very strict Life, he at length dyed; and the Fathers coming according to their Custome, to Anoint the Body, found that he was a Woman; whereupon they began to Cross themselves, and to beg Pardon for Excommunicating her; and have built an Altar in the Grot, and called it by the Name of St. Marrena; as they have also in several

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Grots thereabouts, in remembrance of the Religious Relicks of those that dwelt therein; and when they carry any body to see them, they presently fall down to Prayers.'
About a League from the Convent, are two French-men that live a Hermits life, having Bread and Wine allowed them by the Patriark,: Night coming on, we went to Supper with the Patriark, the Bishop of Aleppo, and two other Bishops, they having provided what the Place afforded; At Supper they brought out a great Glafs, which held neer two Quarts, with which the Old Man soon made himself

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merry, it being their Custome to drink freely; He telling us, that that Glass had belonged to the Convent more than one hundred Years, and that the Turks coming once to Ransack the Convent, seeing this Glass, told one of the Fratres, if he could drink off that full of pure Wine, he would save the Convent; which one of them doing, the Turks went away admiring what sort of People they were.
May sixteen, We took our leave of the Patriark, and presented him with some Livers, as also to the poor Fratres, and other People that belonged to the Convent, and so took our Journey to Trippoly, having had

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A fair review of those Mountaines, and the Countrey adjacent, which is over-spread with many fair Villages, and hath many fruitful Vallyes sown with Corn, and great quantity of Mulberry Gardens; it being the general imployment of the Inhabitants to make Silk.
We Return to Trippoly to the Consuls House that Night, where after two dayes repose, and having been extraordinary well Treated, we took our leave of the Consul.
May, eighteen, about midnight, we set sail for Joppa, with a good Wind; in the Morning we came in sight of Cape-Blanco, where the wind proving

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Contrary, we were forced to beat up and down for two days, before we could weather the Cape the wind coming good, we weathered the Cape, and came in sight of Cap-Carmel, which two Capes make the Bay of Aerica, on which there is a Convent of white Friars, and there they shewd us Elijah's Tomb. And three or four hours Sail further, we came in sight of Cesarea, now Ruinate, and inhabited by a Company of Savage Arabs.
May twenty three, we Arrived at Joppa, which hath no harbour to defend Ships from Storms, but hath very good ground to Anchor in, about ten Fathom Water: It is a poor

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Town, and hath one Castle to defend those ships that come in close to the Shore; the chief Trade thereof, is Pot-ashes for Soap, and a few Cottons, and Cotton-Yarn, which the Franks bring from Thence.
May twenty four, We Arrived at Ramah, which is a pleasant Village; the great Trade of the Inhabitants is in Filado's; the People are poor, and the livelihood of the Women is to Spin that Commodity: We were Treated there at the Convent, till a Messenger was dispatched to the Convent at Jerusalem, for our Admittance to pass thither, because of some extravagant Stories that flew abroad, of the Plague raging in

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the place from whence we came: our messenger returned back that night.
May the twenty fifth, in the morning, we mounted to take our Journey for Jerusalem, and baited at St. Jeroms Church about twelve of the Clock, to Eat what small provisions we had with us: and the heat of the Day being passed, we proceeded on our Journey; and about four of the Clock in the afternoon we Arrived at Jerusalem, at Joppa Gate; where we tarried till the Druggerman of the Convent went to the Caddy for Licence for us to enter the City; which having obtained, and delivering up our Swords, and what other Armes we had, to

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be carried to the Convent; we entered the City on Foot, and were conducted by the Druggerman to the Litines Convent, with two or three Fathers Accompanying us; we found them at their Devotions, and afterwards we all went into the Father Guardians Chamber, who imbraced us, and bid us welcome; We were carried to our Lodgings, and the Father Procurator came to us, and passed a Complement on us, bringing two or three bottles of the best Wine, and desiring us to call for what we wanted; this was our first Entertainment.
But I should have given you an Account that our Druggerman,

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Mallinis Salley by name, who conducted us from Joppa, through the Mountains up to Jerusalem, was formerly a Robber himself, and could therefore the better carry us through the Arabs, who molest those Mountaines and live all upon Purchase; he was a Greek by Nation and Religion.
Now to our further Entertainment at Jerusalem; a Lay brother, one mighty ferious, and Religious in their way, came to our Chamber with Milk, Wine and Fruit, (with a Blessing in his Mouth) the season being very hot: and about twelve of the Clock we went to Dinner, two or three Lay

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Brothers attending at the Hall door, with a Bason and Ewer for us to wash; and then entering the Hall, the Fathers stood all in on one side near one another, saying Grace in Latin, and then singing the Lords Prayer altogether; and afterward bowing toward the Picture of our Savior at Supper with his Apostles, which is placed over the Guardians Head, adorned with Silver Crosses about it, &c.
The Guardian hath his Table alone in the middle of the Room, and two long Tables stand of each side, one for the Pilgrims, and the other for the Fathers; after they had kiss'd the ground, we all fate down, and had every

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One his allotment brought in a little dish, of which we never wanted three or four Courses of several sorts of Meat: our Wine, Water, and Fruit, was set ready for us; the Water something less, which was the allowance of two men, and had two Glasses belonging to it: about the middle of Dinner, the Frater came, and changed our Water, that it might drink the fresher.
Dinner being ended, the Father-Guardian knocks, and the Fraters rise and kneel with their Faces toward the Picture of our Saviour with his Disciples at Supper, and mumbling something to themselves, they kiss the

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Ground, and then begin to take away; one taking away the Dishes, another the Knives, every one having his appointment, and then give Thanks in the same manner as before Dinner; then washing at the door, they go into the Church to Prayer, for a quarter of an hour; this they do daily, rising always early, and in the Night also, to go to Mass.
At this time there were two or three Christians come from Bethlehem, whose art is to make the Figure of our Saviours Sepulcher, or what Holy Story you please, upon your Arm; they make it of a blew colour, and it is done by the continuall pricking of your Arm with two

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Needles; they began presently to go to work on some of us, and having presented us the Patterns of abundance of Prints, every one took his Fancy.
The next day, May twenty seven, we all agreed to goe into the Temple, and about four a Clock in the afternoon we went: There are about ten or twelve Fathers that live there continually, and have their Church there: The door is sealed with the Caddys Seal, and when any man goes in, he pays fourteen Livers; we being entred the Temple, the Fathers came and Saluted us, and conducted us to their Lodgings; where after we had been about an

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hour, they prepared to go in Procession to all the holy places, presenting us every one a Book of Holy Songs, for every place in Latin.
And so we set out, the Fathers being dressed in white Suplices; and the Chief among them with Cloth of Silver over his Surplice, with two more dressed in the like Garb to lead him: there was a great Silver Cross carried before him, with the Picture of our Saviour Crucified upon it, and two men going on each side of it, with Incense Pots, to perfume every Holy Place, that we came to. And so we went to these places following:
1.
To the Pillar to which our Saviour
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was bound when he was scouraged
2.
To the Prison, wherein our Saviour was put.
3. To the place where the Soldiers divided our Saviours Garments.
4. The place where St. Helena found our Saviours Cross.
5. The Pillar to which our Saviour was bound when he was Crowned with Thorns.
6. To Mount Calvary, where he was Crucified.
7. The place where our Saviour was Nailed to the Cross.
8. To the place where he was Anointed.
9. To the Sepulcher of Christ.
10. To the place where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalene in the shape of a Gardiner.
11. To the Chappel of the Virgin Mary, where our Saviour first appeared to her after his Resurrection.

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I might give you a particular description of the Adornment of these Places; but to be short, every one have Lamps burning at them; some are paved with Marble, others are hung with Pictures; the place where our Saviour was laid down to be nailed to the Cross, is paved with Marble also; but in the exact place where the Cross stood, the Marble is covered over with Silver, with Silver Lamps, and wax Candles continually burning; and our Saviour
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Crucified standing on it: the Sepulcher also is covered with Marble, with Silver Lamps continually burning on it; so hath the Anointing stone: you must go into the sepulcher barefoot, as also on Mount Calvary.
Here are all sorts of Christians have their Churches: The Greeks have the best, the Latins, the Armenians, the Copty's, and the Syrians, have each of them Churches here.
The Greeks and Latines are the two powerful Religions in the Temple, and with great Sums of money, and the credit they have at Stambul or Constantinople, they continually buy these Holy Places out of one anothers Hands; the other Parties are Poor, and are therefore squeez'd into a small part of

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the Temple; The Latines that offered ten thousand Livers, for a piece of the Cross, which the Greeks bought out of their hands.
These Religious People bear little respect one for another, speaking very basely each of other.
After our Procession, we went to view all the places and Churches again; the Greeks have a place in the middle of their Church, which they say, is the middle of the World: they have another place by the Prison of Christ, with two holes to put the Feet in: there is also a narrow Passage between two Pillars, which is in imitation of the straightness of the Path to Heaven, which the Greeks
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Creep through.
In the Church of the Syrians, is the intended Sepulcher of Joseph of Arimathea, and Nicodemus: and near the Anointing Stone, is a Tomb, where Godfrey, and Baldwin, Kings of Jerusalem, are Buried. And in the same place is the Rent of the Rock, which begin above, near the place where our Savior gave up the Ghost. Thus having seen the Temple, we return'd to the Convent.
May the twenty eight, we went out of the City at Damascus Gate, and turning on the right Hand, we came to one of the Fish-ponds, belonging to the old

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City and a quarter of a Mile further, You come to the Grot where Jeremiah Lived, when he Wrote his Lamentations; on the left Hand in the entrance, is a Ledge in the Rock, about a Story High, where they say Jeremiah Slept; and below over against the Door, is a hole intended for his Sepulcher; and passing through a Ruinate Door, you come into the Yard, where his Well is, being a very good Spring of sweet Water; there you pay one Liver; afterwards passing along the side of a Mountain, that lies level with the City, a little beyond Jeremiahs Tomb, we came to the Sepulcher of the Kings; the entrance into the first Room, was so small and low, that we were
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forced to creep in, in which there were seven Sepulchers cut out of the Rock: in the second Room, there were eight Sepulchers more; and in the third Room twenty six more; and many more in several other Rooms: One of the Rooms hath a Dore of Stone, which is Cut out of the Rock, and shuts and opens as a Door with Hinges; this Door belongs to the Room, wherein Jehosaphat was Buried, his Coffin is of Stone with a Cover to it, and is very neatly Wrote on the sides with Flowers, as several of them are also in the first Room, but they know not what Kings they are; there is also one other Chamber into which we crept; so that there are

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in all, forty two Burying-Places underground, to which there is but one door to enter, all adorned with Admirable Workmanship; which I being unskilled in, am unfit to express in the proper Terms: and so we return to the Convent, entering the City at the same Gate.
May the twenty ninth, we reposed, some of our Company being a Marking.
May Thirty, we took Horse to go for Bethlehem, and went out at the West-Gate called Joffa-Gate, and turning on the left hand, and taking the lower Path, we passed along the Road that the Virgin Mary brought our Saviour, when She came to offer him at the Temple;
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and half a mile from the City is the place where the Tree Tirbintha grew, which the Virgin Mary sat under to give him Suck; but the Tree being Cut down, the place is incompassed with a Wall.
On the left hand you see Davids House, where he was when he spied Bathsheba Washing herself; on the right Hand a little out of the Road, is old Simeons House and Elias House; and a quarter of a Mile further you come to a Well, where the Wise Men first saw the Star; a little further is the ground where the Reapers were at work, when Habbakuk coming to bring them Meat, the Angel took him up by the hair of the Head, and carried him

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into Babylon to Daniel in the Lions Den: afterward we saw Jacobs House; and a hill like a Sugar Loaf: where the Franks remained forty Years, after they were driven out of Jerusalem; next is a Monastery of Monks of the order of St. Tavola Paula Romana, who when they dye, are Buryed at the Convent in Bethlehem.
A Mile further is the place where the Angels appeared to the Sheppards, and sayd, Gloria in excelsis, &c. when our Saviour was Born, where there hath been a Convent; but now there only remaines an Arched Vault, where we paid Money to the Arabs; who when they espy any Franks going thither, Ride past to take Possession of

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of the place, and get something from them; A quarter of a Mile from hence, in the way to Solomons Cisterns, is the Village of the Shephards, on the backpart whereof is a Well, of which they say, the Virgin Mary desired to Drink; but the Inhabitants denying to draw her any Water, it presently Overflowed for her to Drink: a little way from this Village, is Josephs House; and a little after, we came to Solomons Garden lying shelving: At the bottom of them is the Road from Gran Cairo, and round the Top passes the Aqueduct, which feeds Jerusalem with Water; (from thence we saw Tekoa standing on a high Hill) the water

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comes from the Fountains which feed Solomons Cisterns; passing a Mile along by the Aqueduct, we came to Solomons Cisterns, which are Three; the first had no Water in it, and might be about two hundred and fifty Yards long, and sixty Yards broad, and of a great depth; the second, it had little Water, and was something less in Compass; the third was full of Water and as big as the first: they run one into another, and are fed by the spring that feeds the City.
The Fathers say, that they were made to Swim in, they being built with steps for a Man to goe down, but they seem rather to be intended for a reserve of Water for the City or

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the Gardens, they having passage to both; neer the Gardens, there is an ill-contrived Castle, where a few Villains inhabit, to whom we paid one Liver per Man for leave to goe into the Grot; where the Springs are that feed the City, and the Cisterns; the Grot is large, and hath three Springs in it, and a large passage cut through the Rock, toward the Cisterns, passable by a Man, but we went not to the end of it.
We mounted our Horses to proceed on our Journey, leaving the Castle on the Right Hand, and at a distance we saw St. Georges Church, where the Fathers say, the Chaines remain wherewith St. George was bound, which will

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presently cure a Mad-man if he bound therewith.
After an hour and a halfes Riding, we came neer to Bethlehem, where passing through a narrow Lane, the Guard consisting of four or five Musquetiers, received five Livers of every one of us, and our Druggerman that went with us, received three: and arriving at the Convent, we payed one for our entrance; and after our being welcomed by the Fathers, we took our repose till five of the Clock in the Evening; and then we prepared to goe in Procession to the Holy Places in the same manner as we did at the temple in Jerusalem; the Places we Visited were these:

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1.
The Place where our Saviour was Born.
2. The Tomb of St. Joseph to whom the Virgin Mary was espoused.
3. St. Innocents Tomb
4. The place where St. Jerom lived, when he translated the Bible into Latin.
5. St. Jeroms Praying place.
6. St. Jeroms Tomb.
7. St. Pauls Tomb.
8. St. Eustachias her Daughter.
9. The Sepulcher of St. Eusebius, Abbot of Bethlehem.
10. We return to the Chappel of St. Catherena, which they say was built by St. Paula.
Next is the great Church without the Convent, which hath forty eight Pillars of
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about three Yards long, all in one Piece.
At Evening we went to visit the place of our Saviours Birth, which formerly belonged to the Latins, till the Greeks bought it out of their Hands; so that now the Latins, when they goe to their Procession, Pray at that Door by which they formerly entred.
The Precipior hath two Doors, one exactly over against the other, which are well Lined with Carved Iron, and strengthened with Iron Spikes: We went in Bare-foot, on the Right hand in the entrance, is the place they say where our Saviour was Born, which is Lined with Marble; and in the middle of the Room there is a little place covered with

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Silver, by which they set a Dish to receive your Charity: On the left Hand is the Manger where the Virgin Mary laid our Saviour; which is Lined with Marble; and at the end of the Manger on the Right Hand, is the Picture of St. Jerom naturally in the Marble, which the Fathers esteem as a Miracle.
Over against this Manger, is the place where the three Wise Men stood, when they came to Worship our Saviour: and at the further end of this place in a corner, is a hole made up with Marble wherein they say, the Virgin Mary put the Water, when she had washed her hands; Over which a Lamp Burns continually: and there are also a great many Lamps burning

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in the other Places.
Over this Precipio, in the great Church, is the Altar of Circumcision, where our Saviour was Circumcised.
We having seen what was Rare at Bethlehem, May thirty One, early in the Morning, we Rose to proceed in our Journey, in which we saw these Places following.
1.
The Grot where the Virgin Mary hid herself, when she was Warned to Fly into Egypt, & her Milk running out of her Breasts there, made the Earth turn White; which Earth the Catholics do very much esteem.
2. Davids Cisterns
3. The Grot wherein the Virgin Mary and Joseph lived before

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they could get to a house.
4.
The Tomb of Rachel, Jacobs Wife, which the Turks do also much esteem.
5. The Field of Sennacharib, where the Angel of the Lord flew in one Night, One hundred eighty 5000, of the Syrians; in this place is a Village, which is called Botechelle, where the Fathers affirm, no Turk can live.
6. The place where the Pillars of the Convent of Kamath were built.
7. The Vineyard from whence the Spyes of the Land of Canaan took the Cluster of Grapes, to show the fruitfulness of the Land; there is also the Fountain, where Philip Baptized the Queen of Sheba's Eunuch.
8. The Desarts of John Baptist;

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and after an hours Riding, we came to John Baptists Fountain, where was his Chamber; and a Rock, wherein there was a place cut out like a bench for his Bed; to break off any bit of this Rock, is Worthy excommunication.
9.
Zacharias House, where the Virgin Mary came to salute her Couzen Elizabeth; for the Angel that told her she should conceive, told her also, that her Couzen was with Child; and upon her Salutation, the Child leaped in the Womb: Near this House is a Fountain with two Cisterns which is called Elizabeths Fountain.
10. There is a Stone where John Baptist Preached, which the Fathers say, the Turks have endeavored to break in pieces but could not.

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11.
The place where John Baptist was Born, now a Stable; but formerly a Church, where the Fathers upon John Baptists day carry their Organs thither, and Adorn the Place for their Prayers.
12. The Tombs of the Maccabees, which we saw at a distance, and being ruinated, appear as so many Arches.
13. We passed by a Village, where the Men are all Turks, and the Women Christians; for the People being poor, the Turks were very severe with them for their Harach; who not being able to pay all at once, turned Turks, &c.
14. We came to the Mountain Crupil, where part of the Wood whereof our Saviours Cross was made,

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was cut down, and over the place where they say the Tree stood, from which it was cut, there is a stately Church, which is in the Possession of the Greeks; the just place where the Tree grew is inlayed with Silver, by which they set a Dish for your Charity: the Flore of this Church is well Wrought with Mosaick Work, and painted with Scripture Stories; and instead of a Bell, they knock upon a board, that hangs up, which sounds somewhat like a Bell.
And now we goe forward to the Convent at Jerusalem, passing by Mount Gibon, where Solomon was Annointed King; and about night we came to our Lodgings, having made two days

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Journey to see the Holy Places, and Traverse the Mountains of Judea; we slept very well that night, but still we have more Pilgrimages.
June 1. We lay still to recover our selves of our Bethlehem Journey, but Father Tomasa out of his Zeal, is very importunate with us to be walking to see other places, which is very Meritorious in the Roman Church; and had we been of their Religion, it had been impossible to have mist Heaven; for we had received indulgences for all our Lives; which fancy I wish doth not deceive too many.
June the second, We began to search for the Holy Places, which are these following.
1.
The Immolation of Isaac neer

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the Temple, called Mount Morea, which place is inlay'd with Silver, and a dish set by for your Offering.
Secondly, Peters Prison, still made a Prison by the Turks: at the further end of which, is a hole in the Wall, where they say the Chain was fastened, with which St. Peter was Chained; little remembering, how often Jerusalem hath been destroyed, and the Stones of that Old Wall, are now probably as far under Ground, as these are above.
Thirdly, The Monastery of the Knights of Malta; a very fair building, one Room
whereof hath several Partitions for Beds, with a hole in the middle, that if any of them are Sick
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or Fluxitive, they are layd there; to which the Water, (being Bad) and the Air unwholesome, doth very much incline them.
Fourthly, Solomons Temple; which, if any Christian goe into, or but up the stairs, he must Turn Turk, or be burnt: The Rarity of which I shall give you an Account of, when I come to a Prospect.
Fifthly, St. Hellena's Hospital, where there are seven great Caldrons, in which she used to have Provisions dressed for the Poor, where we pay one Liver for entrance.
Sixthly, the Judgement Gate, at which our Saviour was brought in: and some distance from the Gate, is the place where

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he was Condemned.
Seventhly, The Dolorous Way, which is the way that Christ went, when he went to be Crucified; and in the way is the House of St. Veronica, who gave our Saviour a Napkin to wipe his Face, as he passed by: there is also Lazarus's House, and the House of the Rich Glutton; and the place where our Saviour Fainted as they say, and Simon took up the Cross; and neer that, is the Church, where the Virgin Mary stood to see him pass by, and Swounding with Grief; now called the Virgin Maries Church.
Eighthly, Herods Palace, now ruinated, and is now the Bassha's Seraglio; in one Room is
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the place where they Clothed our Saviour with Purple.
Ninthly, Pilates House, where they shew the place, where our Saviour was Crowned with Thorns, and the Pillar to which he was bound, which was brought from thence, and put into the Temple: next, we enter the Hall, where Pilate Washed his Hands, & declared himself Innocent of our Saviours Blood: out of which place we had a fair Prospect of Solomons Temple; which is built within the middle of a spacious Yard very well Paved; there are several Arches, good Walk, and Buildings about it: the Temple is Wrought with Mosaick Work, and by the Turks report, is very Rich within, it being one of their Mosques; and though they have a half Moon

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upon all their Temples or Mosques, yet this only hath a Cross through the middle: The Fathers reporting it would not stand till the Cross was made.
Tenthly, The place where Christ was Scouraged, which is now a Shop for Linnen Cloth; but the Pillar to which our Saviour was bound, is brought from thence, and put into the Temple.
Eleventhly, The House of Annas, where our Saviour being carried along with great Violence down a steep place, to prevent falling, he layd hold of the corner of a Wall, where there is a place, in one of the Stones, fit for a Mans Hand, which the Fathers account
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a great Miracle.
Twelfthly, Simon the Pharisees House, where there is a Stone, with the print of a Foot, which they say our Saviour made, when he stood to pardon Mary Magdalene her Sins: The Fathers say, the Turks have endeavored several times to remove this Stone, but still it comes into the same place again.
Thirteenth, The House of Joakim, and Anna: a fair high Building; and down in an under Room, cut out of the Rock, is the place where they say, The Virgin Mary was Born.
Fourteenth, The Pool of Bethesda, where the Sick lay to be healed; the Angel coming

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Yearly to Trouble the Water, and he that entred in first, was healed; but it is now dry, and half filled with Earth.
Fifteenth, St. Stephens Gate, and a little out of the City, is the place where Stephen was Stoned: and the Fathers would have you to fancy, that there is the print of his Hands, Face, and Knees, when he fell down.
Sixteenth, The Vally of Jehosaphat, which is at the bottom of the Hill, between the Mountain on which Jerusalem stands, and Mount Olivet.
Seventeenth, The Place where the Virgin Mary is Buried; where going down a great many stone steps, you come into
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a large Vault, where all the Christians have their Altars apart, all being of several Opinions, and the Turks, and Christians, do both burn Lamps, over her Grave; here we pay One Liver for entrance; and Forty eight Stone Steps upward, is Josephs Tomb; and over against that, are the Tombs of Joakim and Anna.
Eighteenth, The place where Christ sweat Blood, and the Angel appeared to Comfort him, is neer the bottom of Mount Olivet.
Nineteenth, The Place where our Saviour Prayed, that This Cup might pass from him; and neer that place, is the Rock on which his Disciples sate, when

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he went to Prayer, between which two places he was taken, it is now bordering on the Garden of Gethsemena, but might formerly have been part of the Garden, and is on the Ascent of the Mount Olivet; where the Multitude going to Carry our Saviour away, Peter smote off Malcus his Ear, in the way to the City.
Twentyeth, The Place where they say the Virgin Mary Prayed for St. Stephen, while he was Stoning.
Twenty first, The place where Christ Wept over Jerusalem; it is almost at the Top of Mount Olivet.
Twenty second, The Place our Saviour Ascended into Heaven, having as they say, left the
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the Print of his Foot on a Stone; it hath now a Chappel built over it, with fourteen Marble Pillars round it, it is at the top of Mount Oilvet; and a little way off, is the Place where the Men of Galilee stood, when the Angel asked them, Why stand ye Gazing up?
Twenty third, The Place is shewed us, where the Angel told the Virgin, she should be raysed in three Days.
Twenty fourth, Pelagins his Grot; from whence we saw Bethpage, where the Asses Colt was tied.
Twenty fifth, The Tree under which our Saviour stood, where he Preached the Judgement Sermon.

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Twenty sixth, The place where he made the Lords Prayer.
Twenty seventh, The Place where the Apostles made the Creed; being a Grot of twelve Arches.
Twenty eight, The Sepulchers of the Prophets, being Forty seven in Number, cut out of the Rock; and entering in at a Door, we came into a large Grot, where there were several places to cut out, fit to contain a Coffin: here we paid one Liver.
Twenty Ninth, The Tree where Judas Hanged himself.
The Thirtyeth, The Sepulcher, which Jehosophat intended for himself; but being King, he was buried in the Sepulcher, with the Kings,

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Thirty One, Absoloms Pillar or Sepulcher, which is cut out of the Rock, and about; so that it stands like a Room built for some single Person: it is of a good height, and hath some Carving about it.
Thirty Two, They say hereby is the Print of Christ's Feet; for when he was Carried to Jerusalem, he stopped at the Brook Cedron, and desired to Drink: This Brook is now but a small Channel, and had no Water in it, when we were there; but in the Winter time, the Water comes down from the Hills, and makes a small Current.
Thirty Three, next is the place

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where Saint James hid himself three Days, and three Nights; it is a place cut out of the Rock, which must needs have been made for a dwelling place; neer this is the Sepulcher of Zacharias the Son of Barachias, cut out of the Rock.
Thirty four, On the side of the Hill, on which Solomon Worshipped Molock, are Chambers cut out of the Rock, which they say was the place, wherein the Three Hundred Wives, and One Thousand Concubines of Solomon were kept.
Thirty five, The Fountain of the Virgin Mary, which you goe down to by Stone Steps; the Water whereof is so Sweet, that were a Man blindfolded,

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he could not think it to be any thing but Milk and Water.
Thirty Six, The Place where the Prophet Isaiah was Sawn Asunder: his Sepulcher is under a Rock neer the same Place.
Thirty Seven, The Fountain of Siloa, by which is a Cistern, wherein formerly the Pilgrims used to Wash, but it is now Ruined, and filled with Stones and Mud, yet it is Water still accounted good for the Eye Sight; and near this is Golgotha.
Thirty Eight, And near this Place, in a bottom, is a Well, wherein they say Nehemiah his the Holy Fire, when the Children of Israel were carried

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Captive; and when they returned Forty Years after, they say they found the same Fire in the Well.
Thirty Nine, Ascending up the Mount, we came to the Tombs of Annas and Caiphas.
Forty, And near it is the Place where the Apostles hid themselves; where entering a straight passage, we came into a Room under Ground, out of which there goe several holes, wherein they say, the Apostles Lay.
Forty One, We then came to Aceldama, a Grot, which is now held by the
Armenians for a Burying Place: it is said, the Earth thereof, will consume the Body of a man, in Forty Eight

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Hours: there are several Vents on the Top to let out the smell: We went down under a Rock, to a place where we could look into it, and we there saw the form of a Man entire, they being only layd in, but not Covered with Earth.
Forty Second, We came to the Fountain of Bersheba, which is at the bottom of Mount Sion, in which there is now but little Water, we being forced to tarry a quarter of and hour for one Drought.
Having now seen all that was Remarkable in these Parts, we made toward the Convent, having got a great deal of Credit with Father Tomasa; that we should be such Zealous Pilgrims,

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as to walk from five a Clock in the Morning till Midday; but he to encourage us, would still be formost; and told us always, there was some place more worthy our seeing, then any we had seen before: and though he was an old man, and the Weather hot, yet at the going up of a Hill, he would run, that he might be foremost: and gave us all the good Words that could be, to encourage us Protestants, who never hoped or thought, that we Merited any thing by it: but at length we came to the Convent again, and being well weary, every one retired to his Lodgings.
June Third, we repose at the Convent; after Dinner, one of

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the Fathers came and told us, that the Father Guardian would wash our Feet; which Honour we accounted too great for us, and desired to be excused: but we were forced to comply with the Orders of the Convent; The Bason, which was as big as a Tub, was placed by a Chair: there were Rose-Leaves and Herbs put into the Water; the Fathers all stood in a Row, Singing Godly Hymns; we sat down, and the Father Guardian wrapt a Towel about our Knees, to keep our Cloths from the Water; then they began to scrub our Leggs and Feet, (being Masters of their Art) there were two Fratres attending, one on one Leg, and another on the other; having first dryed

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the left Foot, the Frater kisses it, and puts on our Slipper; then he dryes the Right Foot, and wraps the Towel about the Sole of the Foot, and setting it on his Knee, and covers the Toes with his Hand, and then come all the Fratres, and Kisses it; this being done, he gives us a little Candle, in taking of which, we kiss his Hand, and so rise and stand by, till all our Company are Washed in like manner. Then went we in Procession, round their Chappel, they saying several Prayers, at their three Altars, and so we return to our Chambers.
June the Fourth, After Dinner, we went into the Kitchen, where we found all

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the Fathers, with Napkins before them, washing the Dishes, every one taking his part, even to the Father Guardian himself; some were cleaning, some handing away; but all the while, with on Consent, they say some Prayer; it seeming to be their endeavor, that all that they do, may be done to the Glory of God; this being done, they goe all to the Chappel to Prayers; yea, and two or three times in the Night they Rise to Prayers.
On Whitsunday, the Chappel was Adorned something Extraordinarily, and there was a very Rich Canopy, set on the

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Right Hand on the high Altar, for the Father Guardian to sit under; when the Prayer began, the Father Guardian came into the Chappel, and sate under this Canopy: There were three or foure Fathers Drest in Cloth of Silver, much after the manner of a Herald; two whereof attend on each side of the Guardian, and two stand over against him.
Then they began to dress the Father Guardian in his Festival Robes, and having read two or three Lines, they put a piece of Linnen laced about this Neck, and then his Surplice, Reading still between every Robe that was put on. Then they cover him with a Garment of Rich Sattin, and Cloth of Silver; the two that

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stand over against him, bowing at some words. His body being thus drest, the two Fathers, put a Myter upon his head, doing it with all the Respect Imaginable; after a short Prayer, they take the Father Guardian by the hand, and lead him to the Altar, he standing in the middle of the four Fathers, adorned as aforesaid; the other Fathers have their Surplices on, and the Organs go; then making a short Prayer at the Altar, they lead the Guardian to his place again; and after a little reading, they take off his Myter, and he sits bare till the Prayer be done: then they put on another Myter; the first was of Cloth of Silver, and the second was of Cloth of Gold,

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set full of Rubies, and Diamonds, and other sorts of Stones; they afterward took off that also, and put on a third Myter, which was of Cloth of Gold, something differing in shape, from the others.
The Guardian being led, to and from the Altar, a great while, at length, when they came to read that place, where the Holy Ghost came down upon the Apostles, assembled together, there was a Father upon the Terrass, appointed to throw down a white Pidgeon drest up with Ribbons, in imitation of the Holy Ghost, but he met with some difficulty; for the window was so fast shut that he could not open it a great while, so that we had like to have

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gone away without their Holy Ghost: but this difficulty being overcome, he made the Dove descend among us; which being done, after a Prayer, they began to undress the Father Guardian again, reading all the while his Robes were taking off; and so that days service was done.
Now we began to think of going to the Dead Sea, and the River Jordan, we therefore demanded what our expence would be, the Fathers say, twenty five Livers, but we all agree not to give above twenty; The Fathers sent our resolution to the Bassa, and he return'd us this answer, That if we would goe, we should pay twenty two Livers; and if we would not he

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would have ten Livers a Man; we thinking ourselves under his command, and not willing to embroil the Convent, for they are to bare all damages, as they have done for several; but thanks be to God, none happened in our time.
We all resolved to goe, except Mr. T. H. and one Englishman more, and a Dutchman, not thinking the Bashaw had been in earnest; but because they went not, they were forced to pay ten Livers for nothing; we then came to Bethany, now a small Village, where entering into a Grot under ground, we saw a Tomb, from whence they say our Saviour raysed Lazarus, after he had been dead so many dayes; here we had the Bashaws
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guard to wait upon us, for fear of the Arabs, who are on the other side Jordan in the land of Moab; who doe often make incursions, and have sharp disputes, at the end of the Lance, with those that live on this side, in the land of Promise; The Bashaw pretended, that he must send fifty men with us, but it proved but fourteen or sixteen.
Having reposed a little on the ground, about nine of the clock at night, we mounted our Horses, and passing through the turning and winding of the Mountains, we came in the Morning to the foot of the Quarantine Mountain, where we dismounted; and making the cold earth our bed, we slept two

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or three hours, having our horses made fast to our hands, and the Sun rising, we rose also, and walked to Elisha's Fountain, a stones throw off; and before the Sun was too hot, we Mounted our Horses at the foot of the Mountain, and so began to ascend, it being very steep; having ascended a great height, we came to the place where they say, our Saviour slept, when he Fasted Forty days; and from that the Mountain received its name; this place is neer the height of the Mountaine, but the passage to the top, is Known only to the Arabs; here is a Church over this place, where some Fathers have lived, till they were Murdered by the Arabs.
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Below this place are several Cisterns of water, and several Frontispieces of Chappels, but the passage to them is cut off; as we were going up, the thoughts of the danger of descending, enters into our heads, and the Emperour of Germanies Druggerman for these Countrey Languages, being extraordinary fearful, got two Turks to conduct him down, and so we having all had a fast descent, we rode cheerfully back to Elisha's Fountain, which was formerly bitter; but he throwing in a handful of salt, the waters became sweet.
Here we lay till Four a clock, and the heat of the Sun being over, we made for Jericho, where we arrived about five, where

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there are now, only a few poor Cottages: we pitched by Zacheus Tree, the Inhabitants are for the most part Arabians, and some few Greeks: here the Captain of the Village came to welcome our Bashaw and his people, he was mounted upon a Mare, valued at a Thousand Livers, Mares being only in esteem among them; here we reposed under a rotten hedge, till about four of the Clock next mourning; having little pleasure in our companions, The Gnats, and other stinging creatures.
We proceed for the River Jordan, where we arrived by day-light, and tarried about an hour to swim in the River; the stream is strong, and rapid; and
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the force of a man, can little more than resist it; it runs into the Dead Sea.
Our Guard were very hasty for us to be gone, being afraid their Enemies should find them; therefore we all made ready, and set forward for the Dead Sea; about two hours after in our way to the Sea, we passed through a most cursed barren place, not having so much as a green herb or grass, and the face of the earth was covered with Salt, and though it was dry, yet our Horses sunk up to the Knees.
We come now to the Dead Sea, being about Seventy or Eighty Miles Breadth, and about Eighteen Over: There is no place Visible from whence the

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Water, which comes into it, runs out again, except it be under the earth; neither doth it seem to Increase with the water of the River Jordan, and of several other waters that run into it: It was once a fruitfull Valley, and compared for delight, unto Paradise, and was called Pentapolis, of her five Cities, and was afterward destroyed with fire from Heaven, and turned into this filthy Lake, and barren desolation which doth encompasses it: & to try the virtue, that is reported to be in the water, wherein they say, a man cannot sink; some of our Company went into the Sea, and found it impossible to get their bodies under water, yea could hardly keep their legs under;
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The water is sulphury, and the extremity of the saltness is not to be exprest; when they came out of the water, there was a perfect Oyl upon their bodies.
Our Eyes being satisfied with Curiosities, and Rarities, we make what hast we can, back to Jerusalem: but I should have given you an Account, that the Ruins of one of the Cities, that were destroyed for Sodomy, now lyes good part out of the water, and is supposed to be Zeboim.
Now the Sun gets strength, and grows extraordinary hot, and by reflection on the ground, makes the heat so violent, that our faces looked as if the skin were slead off, by riding in

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the Sun, from Morning till four of the Clock in the afternoon; but the Fathers being accustomed to meet with tender-faced Travellers, soon provided something to mitigate our pain, which was much increased, by reason of the saltness of the water of the Dead Sea: this night we took little pleasure in eating, but more in sleeping, having had but little in this Voyage.
Having now visited all the places in the Holy Land, which Pilgrims usually do, we prepare our selves for our return. June Ninth, we being resolved to set forward in our Return; In the Morning the Father Guardian came to us; and gave us his blessing, and sprinkeled
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us with Holy Water, desiring us to excuse our Bad Treatment, and that if at any time we had been distasted, we would pass it over; but we Knew it was but a compliment, for we had the Civilest Entertainment imaginable, and very far from disgusting us; for there were none of them, but were not only ready to be our servants, but our Slaves, yea, my honest name-sake, Father Tomaso, never ceased from Morning to Night, from bringing us either Victuals or Drink, or asking us whether we wanted any thing; and now for this his fourteen days service, we were no ways capable to recompence him; for they would take no money, but

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For our Victuals, and for some other small services; we therefore presented to the Convent, thirty Livers apiece, and some that had servants presented more. The Father Procurator receiving it, they entred all our names in a Book, and the sums we gave; the Book where the names only were written, we had a view of, and took a Coppy, of all the Englishmens names that were in it, from the year One Thousand five Hundred Sixty One, to this day, being One Hundred Fifty Eight in number.
Now taking our leaves of the Fathers, they all shewed a great deal of affection to us, weeping, and expressing their desires, to enjoy our company longer;

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and our desires were as much to be nearer home, that we might have an Account of our Friends.
June the Fourth we departed, our Muletters having provided us Horses; and our intentions were to take Emaus in our way, but night drawing on, we made St. Jeroms Church our sleeping place; there were formerly Fathers lived in it, but the Arabs came upon them in the night, and cut all their throats; The Church is very well built, and hath been adorned with Pictures upon the wall, of which some remain to this day.
About two hours riding from Jerusalem, we passed over the brook, out of which they say, David

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gathered the pebble stones, wherewith he flew Goliath.
June Fifth, we arrived at the Convent in Ramath, about ten of the Clock in the Morning, where we tarried till about midnight, at which time there was a Ship to depart, and some of us intended to embarque; the rest of us took a little boat, about the bigness of a Gravesend Barge; we put our provisions of Bread and Wine aboard, and so we put to Sea, keeping always neer the shore, for fear of a storm.
After three days sayl, we arrived at America, formerly called Ptolemais, we always coming to Anchor at night; this place is famous for nothing but the ruins, the

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Road being so bad, that all the Art Captains having, can but keep their Cables together.
The Commodities in this place, are only Cottons, Pot-ashes, and some Filletto's.
Two days after we arrived at Tripoly, where we made bold, at our old House; the Consul receives us very gladly, and our design was, to depart next day, but the Plague still raging at Aleppo, the Consul forced us to stay with him Twelve or Fourteen days; all which time we were treated like Princes, and then by his leave, we imbarqued on a Dutch Ship for Scanderoon; the rest of our Company (whom we left at Acrica to goe to see the Sea

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of Gallilee) being arrived.
June Twenty Six, we arrived at Scanderoon, where some were dead, and others dying, and one flying from another.
We tarried upon the Mount, and aboard the Ship for some time: and July 2d we arrived at Aleppo, where there dyed at that time, Seventy or Eighty of a day of the Plague.
And thus ended our Journey.

FINIS