Voyage to Constantinople.-Shipwreck.-Tafur is almost drowned.- A fight between Catalans and Genoese.-Two embassies arrive for the Emperor of the East.-Chios.-Troy.-The Dardanelles.- Pera.

THERE was a ship from Ancona at Rhodes, and I contracted with the captain to carry me to Constanti- nople, and we sailed and came to the island of Samos, which is in the Archipelago, leaving on the right hand the castle of S. Pedro, which is on the mainland of Turkey, and on the left, the island of Cos, which belongs to the Order of Rhodes. We continued our course towards Chios, where we came upon a ship of that place, and they told us that the ships and galleys, which had come from the Council to take the Emperor of Greece to Europe, were anchored in the harbour of Chios, and we set sail and passed, leaving the island on the left, but the wind did not favour us, and when it failed we had to anchor beside the island and remain there that night. The next morning we saw approach ing us two great galleys, and two lighter ones, and they came alongside and ordered us to return to Chios, otherwise they would fight us, and we had to do this, as we could not resist them. This was so that we should not know what they were about, for the Genoese had taken those galleys and armed them, intending to go to the harbour of Alexandria, and to capture two Catalan galleys, the En-Casa-Sages, and the En Sirviente, which were there. We were forced to return with the galleys and to anchor in the harbour, and we remained there all day. At midnight a great storm arose, and as we were insecurely grappled, our anchor broke away and caught a carack, which had been burnt and sunk in ancient times during the war between the Venetians and the Genoese, the bows of which remained above the water, and our ship struck it, and it stove us in and we sank, and it was then day. The sailors, in great peril from the sea which was very high, reached shore with difficulty, but as for me, when the ship sank, I was left in the water clinging to a piece of wreckage. Certain gentlemen who were there, Messer Nicolao de Meton, captain general, and some bishops and French gentlemen, gave orders to rescue me, but none dared venture. Then some Biscayans took a skiff from a galley, and came out to me and carried me to shore, but I was almost exhausted by the water and the cold, for it was Christmas. I found there the Bishop of Viseo in Portugal, and he took me with him and attended to my needs. There the French gentlemen heard from me of the death of the Grand Master of Rhodes, and certain Knights of the Order arrived, and with them the Commander of Pulaque, and when the storm abated he was carried to Rhodes in a galley, and was made Marshal of Rhodes. He was that one who brought the Bull to Castile, and then he had lost one eye, but not when I now saw him, and he was a very good knight and a man of great renown.

We remained there in Chios until the galleys went out against the Catalans, and it was on this wise. When they arrived at the harbour of Alexandria they found the Catalans there, and when the Catalans saw them they ran one of the galleys aground, and the larger galley, which was very powerful, took up the men, and they fought all that day and night, and the Moors looked on. At dawn a land wind arose, and the Catalans sailed out to sea, but the Genoese did not dare to follow, since on the open sea, with a fair wind, they would have had the worst of it, and leaving the other ships well guarded, the Catalans sailed for Rhodes, and the Genoese returned to Chios, where we remained. Having dragged our ship ashore, we refitted it, but the bulk of the merchandise was lost, and I also lost many things which I had brought from the East.

The ambassadors took their ships and left the harbour and came to the Council, and disembarked at Nice in Provence. This embassy was the one which had come to the Emperor of Greece, to obtain his agreement with the Council. It was a very rich and magnificent embassy, composed of well-selected men. But when the Venetians heard of it, and saw the great prejudice which was being stirred up against Pope Eugenius, who was a native of that city, they sent out another embassy to the Emperor, and the two met at Constantinople, and there was a great dispute as to who should bring the Emperor, and they armed themselves to fight. Thereupon the Emperor let it be known that he would go with neither embassy, but that he intended to go with his own ships, and he asked them to depart and not to hinder his passage, and they had to agree. Those of the Council came to Chios, as I have related, and the Venetians made as if to enter the Black Sea. Never- theless, an agreement was come to between them and the Emperor, and when the others had departed they returned, and took the Emperor within a few days, and carried him to Italy to the port of Venice.

I remained in this island of Chios for twenty days and had nothing to do. I then departed for Turkey, which is only a short distance away, to a place called Foja-Vecchia, which, they say, is one of the ports of Turkey, where there is a Genoese settlement, and I found there a friend of mine whom I had known in Seville, and I asked him, since he had some influence with the Turks, to send one of his people with me to Troy, and to hire horses for me, which he did. I travelled by land for two days to that place which they say was Troy, but found no one who could give me any information concerning it, and we came to Ilium, as they call it. This place is situated on the sea opposite the harbour of Tenedos. The whole of this country is strewn with villages, and the Turks regard the ancient buildings as relics and do not destroy anything, but they build their houses adjoining. That which made me understand that this was, indeed, ancient Troy, was the sight of such great ruined buildings, and so many marbles and stones, and that shore, and the harbour of Tenedos over against it, and a great hill which seemed to have been made by the fall of some huge building. But I could learn nothing further, and returned to Chios. Here I found my ship refitted, and in two days we set sail. The island of Chios yields much gum, and has been populated by the Genoese, who took it from the Greeks, and the rulers call themselves Mayoneses, and since they cannot defend the place, they pay tribute to the Genoese who raise their standard there. The Genoese have need of that island for their voyages to the Levant and the Dardanelles.

We departed and put out to sea, and a great tempest arose which damaged the ship, but the sailors, being very skilled in that art, repaired the damage as best they could, and, leaving on the left hand the island of Mytilene, which also belongs to the Genoese, we doubled the Cape of S. Maria and came to the island of Tenedos, where we anchored and disembarked. While the ship was being refitted we set out to see the island, which is some eight or ten miles about. There are many conies, and it is covered with vineyards, but they are all spoilt. The harbour of Tenedos looks so new that it might have been built to-day by a master-hand. The mole is made of great stones and columns, and here the ships have their moorings and excellent anchorage. There are other places where ships can anchor, but this is the best, since it is opposite the entrance to the Straits of Romania [Dardanelles]. Above the harbour is a great hill surmounted by a very strong castle. This castle was the cause of much fighting between the Venetians and Genoese until the Pope sentenced it to be destroyed, that it might belong to neither. But, without doubt, this was very ill-advised, since the harbour is one of the best in the world. No ship can enter the Straits without first anchoring there to find the entrance, which is very narrow, and the Turks, knowing how many ships touch there, arm themselves and lie in wait and kill many Christians. From there one sees many buildings of Troy, and certain Greeks who live there can even give some account of the place.

The next day we departed, and sailing on we entered the Straits, which are very narrow. On the Turkish side the water is very shallow. These Straits are called the Dardanelles, and here was the door and harbour of Troy. On the side towards Greece the water is very deep. Here stands the tower of Vituperio where Achilles was found with Patroclus, or so they say that wish it so. In this place the Straits are so narrow that on a clear day one can see a standard raised on the other side. So, passing through these Straits, and leaving certain villages on the Turkish side and on the Greek side, we reached the city of Gallipoli, a notable place, and a good harbour with an excellent castle. This was the first place taken by the Turks when they passed over into Greece, and they left the wall and castle standing, which they did not do elsewhere, so that if they chanced to be defeated they could be succoured from there. We departed from Gallipoli and came to the Sea of Marmora, which is an inland circular sea of about eight leagues across, and they call it Marmora, because from it came all the marble for Constantinople, as well for the walls as for the city, and it belongs to the Greeks. From there we came to a town called Eregli, and to . another called Silumbria, which two places the Turks allowed the Emperor to retain in times past out of courtesy and for his support. Departing from there, the next day at dawn, we saw a very high mountain, more than a hundred miles off, and they told us that it was St. Sophia, which is in Constantinople, and we came to a place about two miles from the city where we remained that night The next morning I sent the boat to the city of Pera, to give news of my coming to the captain of a ship, called Juan Caro, a native of Seville, who was my good friend and whom I knew to be there. He came out with his friends in their boats to greet me. I desired to go at once to make my reverence to the Emperor, but they importuned me so much, saying that I should disgrace them if I did not go first to Pera where they had their houses, that I had to comply. I and my companions entered the boats of the Castilians, and our ship came with us, and we entered the harbour of Constantinople, and we then left it and went on and anchored at the quay of Pera, which is one of the finest in the world. Any ship, however great, can lie in clear, deep water with its bowsprit on land, so that better anchorage could not be had. I landed in company with the Castilians, and with other friends of theirs of divers nations, and we went to the church to pray. There I found the podesta who governs the place, and he received me very kindly, asking for news of the West, and protesting that what ever I had need of should be supplied at once, and so we parted. I took lodgings with the Castilian captain where I had, indeed, an excellent reception, and when I arrived I found a great present of wine and fowl, which the podesta had sent me. The following day the Castilians who were in Constantinople and Pera came to see me, and I recognized some whom I had seen in Castile, among them Alfon de Mata, squire to Don Juan, our Master, whom God protect.

He begged me to present him to the Emperor of Trebizond, because he had come with the ambassadors of the Council, and was now ruined, and I did speak to the Emperor, although he was himself equally ruined, having been exiled from his country with the Empress of Constantinople, his sister, and he received him into his service, and gave me the same day a bow and arrows which I still have.

Constantinople.-The EmperorJohn Palaeologus.-Tafur's family tree.-The story of the Fourth Crusade.-Tafur's reception at Court.-Departure of the Emperor for Europe.

AFTER two days, during which time I rested myself, I went to make my reverence to the Emperor of Con- stantinople, and all the Castilians accompanied me. I arrayed myself as best I could, putting on the Order of the Escama, which is the device of King Juan, and I sent for one of the Emperor's interpreters, called Juan of Seville, a Castilian by birth, and they say that the Emperor chose him to be interpreter because he sang him Castilian romances to the lute. He came with me to the Palace, and went in to advise the Em peror that I was there to make my reverence, and they made me wait an hour while the Emperor sent for certain knights and prepared himself. I then entered the Palace, and came to a hall where I found him seated on a tribune, with a lion's skin spread under his feet. I made my reverence there, and told the Emperor that I had come to see his person and estate, and to take knowledge of his lands and lordships, but principally to learn the truth concerning my lineage, which I had been told had sprung from that place, and from his Imperial blood, and I commenced to tell him the manner in which this was said to have come about. He replied at once that I was very welcome, and that he was greatly pleased to see me, and as to that which I spoke of he would order the ancient records to be searched, so that the truth of everything might be ascertained. He asked me for news of the Christian lands and princes, especially concerning the King of Spain, my Master, and of his estate and his war with the Moors, and I replied to everything to the best of my knowledge, and so took leave of him and went to my lodging. The next day he sent for me to ask me to go hunting, and he sent horses for me and mine, and I went with him, and with the Empress, his consort, who was there, and that day he told me that he was now acquainted with the matters about which I enquired, and that on his return he would order me to be exactly informed concerning them, and I thanked him. When we returned, about Vesper time, after we had dismounted, he sent to summon before him those whom he had instructed to make search concerning my enquiries, and it was on this wise.

They say that formerly (I do not remember the actual time) an Emperor of Constantinople sent throughout his lands to order that the nobles should pay taxes and render service and make contributions, in the same way as the villeins. The nobles, in view of so great an abuse of their charters, spoke with his eldest son and heir, and persuaded him to take their part and to reason with the Emperor, his father, that he should refrain from leaving so bad a name behind him, for his proposals were against order and justice, and could only force the nobles to take up arms against him, which could not be avoided if he persisted in his evil purposes. The prince accepted the charge of the nobles, and promised to do all in his power, and he spoke to the Emperor, his father, and begged him, of his grace, not to do this against the nobles of his country, since it was due to them that he was ruler, and that they sustained and honoured him; further, that if he opposed them he would involve his country in great peril and labour, and that he would find that he could not enforce his will on them. When the Emperor heard this he was very incensed against the prince, his son, and banished him from his court, and he betook himself, as they say, to the city of Adrianople, which is to-day the headquarters and court of the Grand Turk. When he arrived there the noise of it went throughout the Empire, and presently there was a general rising of the nobles and their adherents, and they gathered to- gether and took the prince, and came with a great host to Constantinople where the Emperor was, a journey of about five days. The Emperor, when he knew of this, went out and encamped with all his commons, and they were thus arrayed one against the other. The prince sent once again to beseech his father that he should refrain from causing such great injury and ruin, since otherwise he would have to fight with him. But the Emperor was much more incensed than before, saying that matters must now proceed, and that he would make the prince and all those with him pay with their lives. When the prince saw this, and that a contest was imminent, he made an agreement with his father that the Emperor should withdraw to Constantinople, and that he should return to Adrianople,and that they should then come to terms. The prince did all this in order to avoid fighting with his father. And it fell out so, and each returned to his place.

Now when the prince saw that the question could not be settled without fighting, he approached one of the princes, his brother, and recommended the people to him, and he commended him to the people, and said that God would never suffer him to fight with his father, nor even to live in a country where such a thing was possible, and he departed and came to Spain, and arrived in Castile at the time when Don Alfonso was reigning, who conquered Toledo, and whom some call Alfonso of the Pierced Hand. Here the prince was known as Count Don Pedro, and was father of Don Estevan Yllan. The Greek nobles, when they found themselves bereft of such a captain, for he was a valiant knight, as he had proved himself by many feats of arms, both before and after he came to Spain, took the younger brother, although he was but a youth, and kissed his hand, and called him Emperor of Greece, and set out with him from Adrianople with all their men-at-arms. They came up against Constantinople, with intent to place this youth on the Imperial throne, and the Emperor, when he was advised of it, did as before and marched out of the city against him, and there was no course but to fight. The Emperor was vanquished and captured, and great numbers of his people were slain and taken, and the nobles entered the city as great victors and placed the young prince, their captain, whom they had brought with them, on the Emperor's throne. They set a strong guard about the person of his father, and after a few days' illness he died, and the prince remained in peaceful possession of the Empire. He repealed the laws which his father had made, and made others more favourable to the nobles than before, and for this cause they say that there is not so much liberty for nobles in any part of the world as in Greece. Nor are the villeins anywhere so much in subjection, since they are in fact slaves to the nobility. But, to-day, for the sins of Christians, both nobles and villeins are afflicted with a grievous servitude, since their lords are the Turks, the enemies of the Faith.

The other prince, when he came to Castile, was very well received and much honoured by the King, and they say that the King was preparing to make war on the Moors, and he married the prince to one of his own legitimate sisters, arid left him to govern the Kingdom while he went to the war. He is said to have been a very noble knight, vigorous, frank, and very discreet. They called him Don Peryllan, and he it was, they say, who entered Toledo and set up the King there. Moreover, when the city revolted he recovered it for him, fighting against the rebels and overcoming them. For this cause, and as recompense for this deed, they say that all those privileges were granted to him, which the citizens of Toledo enjoy to this day. He is buried in the chapel of the ancient kings in Toledo, and high up in the roof he is painted on horseback with his standard and arms, the which are the same as those now borne by the most virtuous and bounteous Don Fernant Alvarez de Toledo, Count of Alva, for he is descended in the direr line from that prince of Greece who came to Castile. I also carry those arms, for I come also of that line, and that Don Pero Ruyz Tafur, who was prominent in the taking of Cordova, was a grandson of Count Don Estevan Yllan, the son or grandson of Don Peryllan, the prince of whom I am speaking. It would be fitting, but for prolonging this writing, to relate from the history of Castile, how many of them from father to son are descended from that line until now. And if I carry bars on my escutcheon, it is because by marriages the descent has become confused, but the true arms are checky.

When I was acquainted with all this, I enquired of the Emperor why he did not carry those arms which it was formerly the custom for the Emperors to wear, that is the arms of my family, and he told me that some hundred or hundred and fifty years ago, or more, the Venetians prepared a great fleet, saying that it was for the assistance of the Emperor against the Turks, and they came with the fleet to Constantinople, and were very well received by the Emperor and all the Greeks, and they lodged everywhere in the city. But it appears that they had already plotted what they put in practice, for they rose with the citizens against the Emperor, and fought with him, and since he was wholly un prepared for such treason, they succeeded in driving him out of the city, and many were slain. He fled to Morea, which was called formerly Achaia, a principality of the heirs of the Empire, and the Venetians occupied the city and remained there for fully seventy years, and they carried away many holy relics, which are now in Venice, the bodies of St. Helena and St. Marina, and many other relics. They despoiled a number of magnificent buildings, and carried off two great columns which they set up, with their Patron Saint upon them, on the sea-shore. They are as high as towers and so well preserved that it is difficult to believe they could ever have been moved. Above the door of St. Mark's are four very great horses of brass, thickly gilt with fine gold. There are also jaspers and marbles and other things, all of which they carried off from Constantinople during the time of their dominion. They were even on the point of transferring the government from Venice to Constantinople, but desisted on the advice of an elder, who said that they ought never to leave the city from which they had conquered all the others. While the Venetians held Constantinople the Emperor died, as well as his son, and there remained only a grandson, who married a daughter of the King of Hungary and became a worthy knight. He agreed with the people of Constantinople and the surrounding country that on a given day they should all rise, and he would be ready with as great a force as he could muster, and would succour the city, and when it was taken all should be his, and it was so.

On the appointed day the people rose against the Venetians, and shut them up in one part of the city so that they, could not reach the ships, and they sent for that prince, who entered the city, and killed and cap- tured all the Venetians, and sat himself on the Imperial throne, and the people kissed his hand and acknow- ledged him as their ruler. They took much spoil from the Venetians and much money by way of ransom, and he held dominion in peace. Now they say that this Emperor, who thus recovered the Empire and held it, could never be prevailed upon to relinquish the arms which he formerly bore, which were and are two links joined, and to assume the Imperial arms, which belong to the throne. But he replied always that he had won the Empire bearing those arms, and nothing would induce him to part with them, and so it is to this day. Nevertheless, the old arms, which are checky, can still be seen on the towers and buildings and the churches of the city, and when the people put up their own buildings they still place the old arms upon them. I insisted, as best I could, that the Emperors should still wear those arms since they are the real arms of the Empire. Further, that it is the office which gives the authority, and not the person who restored it, especially since the people recovered the city and made him their lord. To this the Emperor replied that the matter was still being debated between himself and the people. I, having been informed of all this, told the Emperor what had happened in Spain, and he told me what had happened there. This was all I could learn of the affair of the arms, and of the manner in which it came about.

From that time onwards the Emperor treated me with great affection and as a kinsman, and he desired greatly that I should remain in his country and marry there and settle down, and I had some thoughts of doing so in view of what I have related, for the city is badly populated and there is need of good soldiers, which is no wonder since the Greeks have such power- ful nations to contend with. I found in the city many Castilians and persons of other Latin nations in the Emperor's service, and while I was there they showed me great honour and esteem. That day a knight of the household who was there invited me to dinner on the following day, and I accepted. After Mass I went to his house, where he was awaiting me, and I dined with him, and he showed me his wife and children, treating me in a very friendly manner. After dinner he sent everyone away and went to his room and put on his collar of the Order of Escama, the device of our King and Master, and he came to me and said in the Castilian tongue: " Sir knight, you are right welcome. See here is my house with all that is in it at your disposal, as if for my own brother, because I have received great honour and many benefits from your King, and from the knights of your country much hospitality, and if I have not spoken to you until now in your own tongue in public, it is because we hold it for a disgrace at any time to give up our own language and speak a strange one. Nevertheless, for the great love which I have for your nation, and for you, from henceforth when we are alone I will bear myself in all things as a Castilian, like yourself." From that hour I received much honour from this knight, and he brought one of his sisters to me, a very beautiful woman, saying that while I was there I should serve her as a friend, and he commended me to her. Indeed, I believe he desired me to marry her. From this lady I received many things, especially two pavilions which I took to Castile. The one I gave to the King, and the other I still have.

This day the Emperor sent for me to go hunting, and we killed many hares, and partridges, and francolins, and pheasants, which are very plentiful there, and when we returned to the Palace I took my leave and went to my lodging, where he had ordered that I should be provided with whatever I had need of. Without doubt, it was the Emperor's wish to show me much honour and favour, and from that day onwards, when he or the Empress, his consort, desired to hunt, he sent horses for me, and I went with them, and they said that they had great pleasure in my company. After fifteen days of my visit had passed, the Emperor had to depart m the Venetian galleys to meet the Pope, and he begged me repeatedly to accompany him, which I should have done had I not been forced to excuse myself on the plea that I was obliged first to see Greece, Turkey, and also Tartary. When the Emperor saw that he could not persuade me, he commended me to the Empress, his wife, and to Dragas, his brother, who was heir to the Imperial throne-that one whom the Turks have since killed-and he departed in great splendour. There went with him two of his brothers, and 800 men, all noblemen of high rank. On the day of his going there was a great celebration, and everyone went in procession with the members of the Religious Orders to the place of embarkation, and a great company went one day's journey out to sea with the fleet, and I went also. I then took my leave and returned to Constantinople, but the Emperor gave me licence very unwillingly, saying that if I had had my people with me he would not have let me go. So I left him, he commanding me to visit him before returning to my country, which I promised and later performed.

Adrianople.-Description of the Grand Turk.-The Black Sea.- Arrival at Trebizond.

Having returned to Constantinople, I asked leave of the Despot Dragas, who now represented the Emperor, to go to Adrianople, the greatest city in Greece except Constantinople, where the Turks had their armies. The Despot sent for certain Genoese merchants who were there, and directed that they should arrange for me to see the Grand Turk, his state and person, and return without danger. It happened that a brother of one of those merchants had arrived, who was very acceptable to the Despot and was much trusted by him, and this merchant agreed, in order to serve the Despot, to carry me with him and show me everything. We departed in three days, taking the road to Greece, and passing certain small places which, need not be described here, until we arrived at Adrianople, a nine days' journey. Here I lodged with the Genoese who had his house in the city. The Grand Turk sent for me to enquire when and how the Emperor had departed, and in what state, and in whose ships, and according while telling him these things, I saw his person and household and people. He must be about 45 years of age, of good stature, and handsome of feature. He seemed from his bearing to be a discreet person, grave in his looks, and he was so handsomely attended that I never saw the like, for he had with him all his forces, which amount to 600,000 horsemen, and, lest it should appear that I am exaggerating, I refer to those who gave me the information. In good faith, I am afraid to repeat all that was told me. There is not a pedestrian in the whole country, but all go on horseback, on very small and lank horses.

The Grand Turk and his people are always in the field in tents, both in winter and summer, and although the city is close at hand, he never enters it unless it is to go with his women to the bath, which thing, with the help of the Genoese, I was enabled to see. He went thither with drums and music and buffoons singing, and a great crowd of women, who, they said, were his body-women, to the number of 300 and more. Thus, with great noise and shouting they entered the city and remained there until midnight, when the Grand Turk returned to his tents. The next day he went hunting, and the Genoese arranged for me to go as well. There were many people on horseback with falcons, goshawks, and leopards, and all the hunting accoutrements. The Turks have the custom to carry in the saddle an iron staff, and a tambourine with their bows and quivers. This is the whole of their fighting outfit, and since the country is cold and often frozen, and the horses fall easily, the men wear boots of Damascine leather up to the knees, which are very hard, and to which the spurs are fixed. These they wear always, and if the horse falls they can free their legs without receiving any injury, and the boot remains in the stirrup. There are many pheasants and francolins, and every kind of bird which is in Spain. The men are clad in the manner of the country, with long cloaks and mantles of the same material, which are open in front. These are made of fine woolen cloth, and of silk and brocades from Italy. But what surprised me more than anything else was the display of furs: martins, sable, and less valuable skins, ermine, with the teeth, and fox, which latter they value very highly, as well for its quality as also for its softness, and because it is very warm and suitable for such a cold country. Many wear linen on their heads, others hats made like those worn at rustic merry-makings in Burgos. Their saddles are like asses' saddles, but very rich and covered with fine cloths, and their stirrups are rather short than long. That day we returned to the city, and my companion took me about the camp, looking at the quarters of the knights and the other people. There, as in their own houses, they keep all that is necessary for their comfort, their women, and everything besides. The tents are excellent, with good personal accommodation, but nevertheless the people endure much hardship, and long usage has so accustomed them to it that they do not show any aversion. The horses are always kept in the open without any shelter, and I believe that, although they are lank and small by nature, the way in which they are neglected makes them work still less, and, indeed, it seems at times as if they could scarcely carry their masters. Although the number of their horses is difficult of credit, yet considering how many beasts there are in Castile, hacks in Galicia and in the mountains, he mules, she mules and asses, I think our country could show as many. I would as lief ride to war or to tourney on one of our asses as on any of their horses.

The Turks have a vast dominion, but the country is very sterile and sparsely populated and mountainous. Greece, which they occupy, is a flat and fruitful land, although now it is depopulated by war, for the Greeks bear the whole burden of the struggle, and the Turks are ruthless and treat them with great cruelty. Indeed, it is difficult to believe how so great an army can be provisioned. The Turks are a noble people, much given to truth. They live in their country like nobles, as well in their expenditure as in their actions and food and sports, in which latter there is much gambling. They are very merry and benevolent, and of good conversation, so much so that in those parts, when one speaks of virtue, it is sufficient to say that anyone is like a Turk. Having seen the person, household and estate of the Grand Turk, I told my companion that it would be well to return to Constantinople, but we were forced to remain for two days more on account of some business which he had to complete with certain merchants of the Grand Turk's household. On one of those days the Grand Turk went out to hunt, and I went with him to see the assembly, which was the greatest I had ever beheld, in point of numbers and horses, and general display. The men were very well and richly clad, according to their fashion, but such linings I never saw in my life, neither so many nor so rich. The following day we departed and returned to Constantinople by that road by which we had come, and the Despot Dragas showed much pleasure at seeing me, and thanked the Genoese heartily for the care he had taken of me. I remained in the city eight days, resting myself, and while there I begged the Despot that he would be graciously pleased to speak with the captain of a ship there, saying that I desired to pass over the Black Sea to go to Kaffa, which is a city of the Genoese, close to the Sea of Azov. The Despot sent at once for the captain, and asked him to carry me with him and show me honour, and he promised it. And captain Juan Caro, the Castilian, my friend, spoke also with one of the Genoese, and, to oblige him further, he carried in his ship certain merchandise to Chios and Rhodes. This same Castilian gave me also victuals for the voyage. We then prepared ourselves and set sail, and came by the Bosphorus, which stretches from Constantinople to the mouth of the Black Sea, a distance of eighteen miles. Entering the Black Sea we bore to the right hand towards Turkey, passing many places, until we reached a castle called Sinope, which belongs to the Genoese in Turkey. There we anchored and remained two days, discharging merchandise, and loading other goods. In these parts the Turks cut the wood from which they make very strong cross-bows, and they bury them on the sea-shore for fear of the heavy punishment which would be inflicted if they were caught selling them to the Christians, and when they see ships passing they dig them up and sell them.

We departed from Sinope and coasted along the shore of the Slack Sea as far as Trebizond, which was called Samothrace of old. The Emperor there is a Christian and a Greek, and they say that the father of the present Emperor, in order to disinherit his elder brother, approached the Grand Turk, asking him to support him, and he killed his father, and he had two sons and the younger son killed his father, whereby the words of the Evangelist were fulfilled: For with the same measure that ye mete withal it shall be measured to you again. The elder brother was he whom I had seen in Constantinople, living in exile with his sister, the Greek Empress, and they say that his relations with her are dishonest.

Trebizond. - The Usurper. - Kaffa. - The slave-market. - Tafur purchases three slaves.-The Don.-The trade in caviare.-The Grand Khan.-The Tartars.

TREBIZOND has about 4000 inhabitants. It is well walled, and they say that the ground is fruitful and that it produces a large revenue. We landed and went to see the Emperor, who enquired of me concerning the Emperor of Constantinople, in what manner he had departed for Italy, and what people he had taken with him, and he enquired also as to the Empress, his sister, and his brother, whom he had exiled. All this he did, because he desired to know from me whether it was true that his brother was betrothed to a daughter of the Lord of Mytilene, and that this lord and the Genoese and the Emperor had given him a great fleet to make war on Trebizond, and I assured him that this was so, whereupon he was much cast down and replied that he had sufficient to resist them all, and many more. He asked me much in order that he might know who I was and whither I was going, and he urged me to remain there, and promised, in order to satisfy me, that he would send me in one of his ships to see what I wished to see. I replied that I thanked him for de- siring my company, but that I could not consent, since I had to accomplish my journey and be back in my own country within a certain time, as the King, my Master, was going to war with the Moors. Further, that if matters were otherwise I could not remain with him, for he was married to a daughter of a Turk, and that some harm would surely come to him from that. He replied that God would show him grace, because he had married her with intent to make her a Christian, but I said: "My Lord, they say, rather, that they gave her to you so that she could turn you into a Moor, by reason of your expectations from her and the little that you have." He ordered me to be provided with what food I had need of and asked me to return there.

I then departed, and sailed for Kaffa which is part of the Empire of Tartary, but the city is held by the Genoese who have licence to inhabit there, only the Tartars did not think that they would settle there in such numbers. We anchored in the harbour and came to the inn where the captain had his lodging, and stayed there. The next day I went to see the monastery of St. Francis, which is a very pleasant house, and heard Mass, and later I went to see the podesta who received me very well: He asked me of what things I had need, and told me that he would gladly supply my wants, for he felt great love and duty towards our nation, since when he was in Seville he was excellently treated. I thanked him heartily, and before nightfall I went about the city admir- ing many things which were strange to me.

The city is very large, as large as Seville, or larger, with twice as many inhabitants, Christians and Catholics as well as Greeks, and all the nations of the world. They say that the Emperor of Tartary would have taken and destroyed it many times, except that the lords and common people of the surrounding countries would not consent to it, for they use the place for their evil doings and thefts, and their great wickedness, such as fathers selling their children, and brother selling brother. These things, and worse, are done there by all the nations of Persia, and when they leave the city they turn their faces to it, and drawing a bow they shoot an arrow against the wall, saying that they go thus absolved from the sins they have com- mitted. They say, further, that the selling of children is no sin, for they are a fruit given by God for them to use for profit, and that God will show the children more favour in the places whither they go than with their parents. In this city they sell more slaves, both male and female, than anywhere else in the world, and the Sultan of Egypt has his agents here, and they buy the slaves and send them to Cairo, and they are called Mamelukes. The Christians have a Bull from the Pope, authorizing them to buy and keep as slaves the Christians of other nations, to prevent their falling into the hands of the Moors and renouncing the Faith. These are Russians, Mingrelians, Caucasians, Circasians, Bulgarians, Armenians and divers other people of the Christian world. I bought there two female slaves and a male, whom I still have in Cordova with their children. The selling takes place as follows. The sellers make the slaves strip to the skin, males as well as females, and they put on them a cloak of felt, and the price is named. Afterwards they throw off their coverings, and make them walk up and down to show whether they have any bodily defect. The seller has to oblige himself, that if a slave dies of the pestilence within sixty days, he will return the price paid. When slaves of different nationalities are sold, if there is a Tartar man or woman among them, the price is a third more, since it may be taken as a certainty that no Tartar ever betrayed a master.

The city of Kaffa is indifferently walled and surrounded by a very small ditch, but it is well provided with cross-bows, bombards, cannon, muskets and culverins, and all manner of defensive artillery. They turn these even upon unarmed people although they have little wish to do them injury, since they derive great profit from them. A few days earlier those of the city marched out with troops and artillery trains to take the city of Corcate, which is the chief city of Tartary, but the Tartars were advised of it, and overcame the Genoese, and took their artillery and their colours, and killed and captured so many that the Tartars thought that day to take Kaffa itself. They approached the walls and tried to scale them, but many were killed, and the Genoese there realized that their people were stronger by sea than by land. Kaffa is bounded on the side towards Persia and India by land, and on the others by the Sea of Tana, the Sea of Ryxabaque and the Sea of Bacu. They bring there much merchandise, spices, gold, pearls, and precious stones, and above all, from the countries round, come the furs of the whole world and at the cheapest rates. Certainly if it were not for the Genoese who are there, it would not appear that the people have any lot with us, since there are so many different nationalities, so many ways of dressing and eating, and such diversity in the usage of women. In the tavern where we lodged they brought us young virgins for a measure of wine, of which there is great scarcity, as also of all kinds of fruit and bread. These can all be had in the town, but there they are sold by the merchants at a high price, and for this reason thefts are common. The Tartars are a warlike people and they work much, both they and their horses, and they require little to sustain them. They say that when they are moving about, or at war, they carry their meat between the horse's side and the seat of the saddle, and they do not cook it any more than it is cooked by that process. They make war on the neighbouring Christians, and take them and sell them in Kaffa, especially since the death of the lord of Vitoldo, who ruled over Lithuania and Russia, and was brother of the King of Poland, and he died without heirs. When the King of Poland succeeded to his lands, since they were far removed from Poland, the people did not desire him for ruler, and the country was divided up and thus lost. If, the Tartars come under our rule as slaves, it is only because they are stolen or sold, as I have related, by their parents. So great is the multitude of men, and of so many different nationalities, that it is a marvel that Kaffa is free from plague. While I was there I went to see the Don, a great river, and they say that this is the other stream which flows from the terrestrial paradise, and the Sea of Tana, the Sea of Ryxabaque and the Sea of Bacu are all fed by that water which comes from the Tanais, and runs through all Persia and Greater India, and, as with the Nile, the water carries much merchandise which enters the Black Sea close to Kaffa. On this coast are two castles, one belonging to the Genoese and the other to the Venetians, where they store much mer- chandise. In this river there are many fish which they load on ships, especially great quantities of sturgeon, which we call here sollos, a very good fish, both fresh and salted, and they can be met with in Castile and even in Flanders, whither they are carried. By this route the ambassadors of King Enrique travelled when they went to the court of Timur-Beg I was told by Don Alfonso Fernandez de Mesa that from there to the farthest point they reached was as far as from Kaffa to Castile, but that they went straight there and back and saw many strange things by the way, and at the court of Timur-Beg, as they assert. The river Don is a strange sight, as are also the people who dwell on its banks. They kill there certain fish which they call merona. These, they say, are very large, and they put the eggs into casks and carry them all over the world, especially to Greece and Turkey, and they call them caviare. The eggs look at first like black soap, and they take them when they are soft and they press them with a knife, as we do soap in our country, and put them into braziers, which makes them hard, and they look like the eggs of fish. This caviare is very salt. The women and the majority of the men wear the delicate silk of those parts, very elaborately worked, like the Moriscas here. The men wear felt cloaks, as fine as cloth, which are pressed into shape and have no seams, Their arms are scimitars, bows and arrows, and clubs. I did what I could to make plans to go to Tartary, but I was advised against it, since it would be unsafe to venture among people who are constantly moving and live without restraint, owing obedience to no ruler. I went, however, to see the city of Corcate, and from there I wished to see the great bazaar of the Grand Khan (that is lordo basar: lordo, a host, and basar, a square which they call his court. And I informed myself as to it, and it is on this wise. There is a place like a great city where they have their market, as they call it, and there the Grand Cadir is stationed who is charged with governing the people. On the other side, on the left hand, is another place for the same purpose, and another Grand Cadir rules there. The houses are portable, some of linen, some of rods, and it happens at times that, because the soil is exhausted, they change their ground and settle in another district, and when they go they place all their goods in carts, and then set them down in the same order, as if they could not bring themselves to alter it. They eat no bread, which is not to be had, only a mixture of rice and camels' milk, and horse-flesh. They know nothing of wine, for they are of the Mohammedan religion. The Grand Khan is ruler over much country, but cities and towns are unknown. The people live always in the open country. Those who cannot find Christians with whom to fight, make war among themselves, and they steal when they can without fear of justice, for they do not regard it as wrong. They are commonly small in stature and broad-shouldered. Their foreheads are wide and their eyes are small. It is said that the most deformed are of the nobles birth. It is said also that when they meet the Turks they always have the better of them, and that the Turks, as a consequence, beat the Greeks, and the Greeks the Tartars.

But the Greeks are now altogether undone, for at this time Constantinople was the only fortified place they had left, and some still called them lord, but now all the Christian nations distributed throughout the world are serfs to the Moors, as the mudejares are with us, and are completely ruined and subject and scattered. The Turks have, indeed, avenged the taking of Troy. Even before I arrived, and before Constantinople had been taken, the Greeks were as subject as they now are, and if the Turks did not lay hands upon the city, it was for fear of the Christian peoples of the West, lest they should take up arms. But it well appears from the great neglect of Christian princes and people, now that Constantinople is lost, how vain was that fear, for if God had allowed it, and the Turks had dared more, they could have succeeded in all that they attempted, seeing that Christendom has made no effort to avenge the wrong. It is plain, indeed, that cities are better defended by the miraculous power of God than by the industry and strength of men.

I desired greatly to remain in that country, but the people were bestial, and the food did not agree with me. The country is almost as inaccessible as Greater India, where it is impossible to go, and there is little to see in other parts of the country, except those Christians I spoke of as miserable and ruined by the ill neighbourhood of the Tartars, and their want of a ruler to govern them; and so they will continue to suffer until God takes pity on them. The city of Kaffa is so cold in winter that the ships freeze in the harbour. Such is the bestiality and deformity of the people that I was glad to give up the desire I had to see more, and to return to Greece. I therefore collected my goods and departed from Kaffa.

Return to Constantinople.-St. Sophia.-The Relics.-Statue of Constantine (Justinian).-.A Holy Picture.----The Hippodrome.-The Serpent Column.- A statue called The Just..-The Palace.-The Library: -The miserable condition of the city.-Summary Justice.-A feint by the Turks.-They are bought off.

WE sailed in the same ship, and continuing our course we returned to Trebizond, where, as I have said, the Emperor did his best to detain me, but he could not succeed, and we departed and came to Constantinople. But orders having been issued that no ships coming from the Black Sea were to enter the harbour, either at Constantinople or Pera, because it was feared that they would bring the plague with them, they built a shelter two leagues from Constantinople where the ships could discharge their cargo, and where they had to remain for sixty days unless they were prepared to put to sea again. Certainly the foreign nations bring much sickness with them, and I myself saw in that lodging men dead of plague. I sent one of my men to ask permission of the Despot Dragas to enter the city, notifying him that I and my people had left the ship, and that I had not lodged with the others, but had remained two days in the fields. He ordered a boat, which was very well fitted out, to be sent for me, and certain of my friends came out to receive me. I sent my people to the place where they were to lodge, and went to make my reverence to the Despot, who received me very graciously, as did also the Empress and her ladies. The Empress enquired of me how I had fared in the Black Sea, especially if I had seen her brother, the Emperor of Trebizond, and her other brother was there at that time. I told them what had happened when I saw the Emperor, and they thanked me much, and the Empress said: "You could not have done more if you had been of our nation," and I replied: "Lady, I did that which was due from a good Christian." I then took my leave and returned to my lodging, very well attended by the nobles of the city.

On the day following I went to the Despot, and asked him if he would be pleased to direct that I should be shown the church of St. Sophia and its relics, and he replied that he would do it with pleasure, and that he himself desired to go there to hear Mass, as did also the Empress and her brother, the real Emperor of Trebizond. We then went to the church to Mass, and afterwards they caused the church to be shown to me. It is very large and they say that in the days of the prosperity of Constantinople there were in it six thousand clergy. Inside, the circuit is for the most part badly kept, but the church itself is in such fine state that it seems to-day to have only just been finished. It is made in the Greek manner with many lofty chapels, roofed with lead, and inside there is a profusion of mosaic work to a spear's length from the ground. This mosaic work is so fine that not even a brush could attempt to better it. Below are very delicate stones, intermixed with marble, porphyry, and jasper, very richly worked The floor is made of great stones; most delicately cut, which are very magnificent. In the centre of these chapels is the principal one which is very large; the height is such that it is difficult to believe that cement can hold it together. In this chapel there is similar mosaic work, with a figure of God the Father in the centre. From below it looks the size of an ordinary man, but they say that the foot is as long as a spear, and from eye to eye the distance is many spans in length. Here is the great altar, and here one can see all the grace and richness appertaining to geometry. Beneath this chapel there is a great cistern which, they say, could contain a ship of 3000 botas in full sail, the breadth, height and depth of water being all sufficient. I know not if such a statement can be supported, but I never saw a larger in my life and do not believe that one exists. The Despot and the others directed the clergy to bring out the holy relics. The Despot keeps one key, and the Patriarch of Constantinople, who was there, the other. The third is kept by the Prior of the church. The clergy, in their vestments, brought out the relics in procession, which were: Firstly the lance which pierced Our Lord's side, a marvellous relic; the coat without a seam, which must at one time have been violet, but which had now grown grey with age; one of the nails; and some thorns from Our Lord's crown, with many others, such as the wood of the Cross, and the pillar at which Our Lord was scourged. There were also several things of Our Blessed Lady the Virgin, and the gridiron on which St. Lawrence was roasted, and many other relics which St. Helena took when she was at Jerusalem and carried here, which are much reverenced and closely guarded. God grant that in the overthrow of the Greeks they have not fallen into the hands of the enemies of the Faith, for they will have been ill-treated and handled with little reverence. As we came out we saw at the door of the church a great column of stone, higher than the great chapel itself, and on the top is a great horse of gilded brass, upon which is a knight with one arm raised, pointing with the finger towards Turkey, and in the other he holds an orb, as a sign that all the world is in his hand. One day it was blown down in a great storm, and the orb fell from the hand, and they say that it is as large as a 15 gallon jar, but from below it looks like an orange, so that one can judge how high the statue is. They say that to secure that orb, and to fasten the horse with chains, to prevent its being blown down in the high winds, cost 8000 ducats. This knight, they say, is Constantine, and that he prognosticated that from that quarter which he indicated with his finger would come the destruction of Greece, and so it was. That day we were occupied until midday admiring the church and its circuit. Outside this church are great squares with houses where they are accustomed to sell wine and bread and fish, and more shell-fish than anything else, since the Greeks are in the habit of eating them. In certain times of fasting during the year they do not only confine themselves to fish, but to fish without blood, that is, shell-fish. Here they have great tables of stone where they eat, both rulers and common people, together.

The Despot and the Empress and her brother then returned to the Palace, and I went to my lodging. The next day I went to the church of St. Mary, where the body of Constantine is buried. In this church is a picture of Our Lady the Virgin, made by St, Luke, and on the other side is Our Lord crucified. It is painted on stone, and with the frame and stand it weighs, they say, several hundredweight. So heavy is it as a whole that six men cannot lift it. Every Tuesday some twenty men come there, clad in long red linen draperies which cover the head like a stalking-dress. These men come of a special lineage, and by them alone can that office be filled. There is a great procession, and the men who are so clad go one by one to the picture, and he whom it is pleased with takes it up as easily as if it weighed only an ounce. The bearer then places it on his shoulder, and they go singing out of the church to a great square, where he who carries the picture walks with it from one end to the other, and fifty times round the square. By fixing one's eyes upon the picture, it appears to be raised high above the ground and completely transfigured. When it is set down again, another comes and takes it up and puts it likewise on his shoulder, and then another, and in that manner some four or five of them pass the day. There is a market in the square on that day, and a great crowd assembles, and the clergy. take cotton-wool and touch the picture and distribute it among the people who are there, and then, still in procession, they take it back to its place. While I was at Constantinople I did not miss a single day when this picture was exhibited, since it is certainly a great marvel.

There was a church at Constantinople, not so large as St. Sophia, but, as they say, much richer, which St. Helena built, desiring greatly to show her power. At the entrance were certain arches which were very dark, and they say that people were found there frequently committing the offence of sodomy, and one day a thunder-bolt fell from Heaven and set fire to the church, and not one of those who was surprised in that sin was spared. The church they called Valayerna, and it is to-day so burnt that it cannot be repaired. There is also a monastery, called Pentecatro, which belongs to the monks of the Order of St. Basil (there is no other Order in those parts), and this also is very richly adorned with gold mosaics. In it are the vessels which were filled with wine at the marriage of Architeclinos, and many other relics, and it is the burial place of the Emperors. On one side of the city, towards the sea and over against Turkey, is a monastery for women, on a wall, called St. Demetrius, and one can see Turkey across the narrowest part of the Straits. Opposite to it on the Turkish side there is a tower where a chain was stretched from one side to the other, and when it was made fast the ships could not pass. This was done partly for display, and partly in order not to lose the tolls which were collected there, and this they call the Arm of St. George. At one part the Straits are so narrow that one can see a man passing on the opposite shore. Moreover, the sea is very shallow on the Turkish side, and so deep on the Greek side that a ship of any size, and however large, can lie against the walls of Constantinople, so that it looks as if one could jump from the walls on to the ship.

There is in Constantinople a great place made by hand, with porticoes and gateways, and arches below, where the people used in ancient times to watch the games when they celebrated their holidays, and in the centre are two snakes entwined, made of gilded brass, and they say that wine poured from the mouth of one and milk from the other. But no one can remember this, and it seems to me that too much credit must not be attached to the story. There is a statue of a man in the centre of this square, also of gilded brass, and they say that when merchants could not agree as to price they consented to go to this statue, which they called the Just, and what it signified as correct by shutting the hand, that was the true price of the goods, and both parties accepted it. There was once a nobleman who had a horse which was valued at 300 ducats, and a gentleman of those parts desired to buy it, and they could not agree on the price. They arranged, therefore, to go to the statue to determine the question, and they went there, and the purchaser took out some ducats and laid one in the hand of the statue, which thereupon shut its hand, giving to understand that the horse was not worth more, and the purchaser had the horse and the seller the ducat, but the seller was so incensed that he took out his scimitar and cut off the statue's hand, and after that it never judged again. When the buyer reached home the horse fell dead, and the hide and shoes fetched just a ducat. But I would place more faith in anything found in the Evangelists.

On the other side of this square is a bath with doors on either side opposite each other, and any woman accused of adultery was ordered by the judges to be brought there, and they made her go in by one door and come out at the other, and if she was innocent she passed through without shame, but if otherwise her skirts and chemise raised themselves on high without her perceiving it, so that from the middle downwards everything could be seen. This also it may be no sin to doubt. In the centre of this square there is an obelisk made of a single stone, in the same manner as that at Rome, where are the ashes of Julius Caesar, but in fact it is not like that one, nor is it fine nor ancient. They say that it was made for the body of Constantine. There are also many buildings about this square, and inside it, and they call it the Hippodrome.

The city of Constantinople is made like a triangle, two parts in the sea and one on land. It is very strongly walled in a way that is a marvel to see. They say that the Turks came there and put the city in great straits, and he that had charge of the mines was amazed, and said to the Grand Turk: "Lord, this city is not to be taken by mining, for the walls are of steel and will never fall:" (This was said because the walls are very high and are made of great marble blocks bound together.) But as the Grand Turk was continuing his attempt, they told him that they had seen a man on horseback riding on the wall. He then asked a Greek who had been captured what this marvel was which they saw each night, namely, a knight riding round the ramparts on a horse, fully armed. He replied:

Lord, the Greeks say as follows: when Constantine built his church, many men were em- ployed on the work, and one day, as all were going to dinner, the chief master-builder ordered a child to stay and guard the tools. The child did so, and a very beautiful man on horseback appeared and said to him: `Why do you not go to eat with the others?' and the child replied: `Lord, they ordered me to remain here to guard the tools.' But the horseman replied: `Go and eat,' and the child replied that he dare not. Whereupon the horseman said: `Go without fear. I promise you that I will guard the church and the city until you return.' And the child went, but afterwards, being afraid of punish ment, he did not return, so that the horseman remained in fulfilment of his promise, and they say that it was an angel.

The Emperor's Palace must have been very magnificent, but now it is in such state that both it and the city show well the evils which the people have suffered and still endure. At the entrance to the Palace, beneath certain chambers, is an open loggia of marble with stone benches round it, and stones, like tables, raised on pillars in front of them, placed end to end. Here are many books and ancient writings and histories, and on one side are gaming boards so that the Emperor's house may always be well supplied. Inside, the house is badly kept, except certain parts where the Emperor, the Empress, and attendants can live, although cramped for space. The Emperor's state is as splendid as ever, for nothing is omitted from the ancient ceremonies, but, properly regarded, he is like a Bishop without a See. When he rides abroad all the Imperial rites are strictly observed. The Empress rides astride, with two stirrups, and when she desires to mount, two lords hold up a rich cloth, raising their hands aloft and turning their backs upon her, so that when she throws her leg across the saddle no part of her person can be seen. The Greeks are great hunters with falcons, goshawks, and dogs. The country is well stocked with game both for hawking and hunting, and there are quantities of pheasants, francolins, partridges, and hares. The land is flat and good for riding. The city is sparsely populated. It is divided into districts, that by the sea-shore having the largest population. The inhabitants are not well clad, but sad and poor, showing the hardship of their lot which is, however, not so bad as they deserve, for they are a vicious people, steeped in sin. It is their custom when anyone dies not to open the door of the house for the whole of that year except in case of necessity. They go continually about the city howling as if in lamentation, and thus they long ago foreshadowed the evil which has befallen them. On one side of the city is the dockyard. It is close to the sea, and must have been very magnificent; even now it is sufficient to house the ships. In the quarter over against Pera is a mole made by hand, where the ships are fastened. Here the salt water comes in and meets a river which enters the sea at that place. The distance from there to Pera is twice as far as a man could cast a stone. When the ships come to Pera to traffic with the Genoese, they first salute Constantinople and pay tribute, and criminal justice is administered from Constantinople for Pera and the whole country. These harbours of entry, the one and the other, are always full of ships, on account of the great cargoes which they discharge and load.

One day the Castilian captain who was there sent for me, because one of his men had been killed at sea by a Greek, with intent to steal his ship, and I went to him, and we took the criminal and the corpse to the Emperor that justice might be done. Although the Greeks did not wish it, yet out of his great regard for me, and because I said that our people might otherwise take vengeance upon those who were innocent, the Emperor sent at once for the executioner, and in front of the Palace he ordered the criminal's hands to be cut off, and his eyes to be put out. I enquired why they did not put him to death, and they replied that the Emperor could not order his soul to be destroyed. They told me also that when Charlemagne took Jerusalem, on the way by which his people had to return, many of them travelled through Greece and were killed by the Greeks, and that the others, when they heard of this, took the road through Tartary and Russia, where the inhabitants were Christians, and from there they passed into Hungary and Germany. It is said that the reason why the Russians of those parts are so beautiful, is that many Frenchmen settled there and married. The Emperor Charlemagne then came up against Constantinople, and made great war on the Emperor of Greece, but in the end they had to make peace, and the Emperor, as penance for the killing of those men, promised to fast during the whole of Lent, which they say is observed differently than with us (since the Greeks cannot reconcile it with their consciences to eat fish with blood, but only shell-fish, and, further, that no one, however great his crime, should be put to death, but that the punishment was to be loss of hands and eyes. In Greece, therefore, there are many maimed and blinded men. This is the manner in which the Despot gave us justice, and we were content with what he did.

During my stay in the city the Grand Turk marched forth to a place on the Black Sea, and his road took him close to Constantinople. The Despot and those of Pera, thinking that the Turks were going to occupy the country, prepared and armed themselves. The Grand Turk passed close by the wall, and there was some skirmishing that day, and he passed with a great company of people. I had the good fortune to see him in the field, and I observed the manner in which he went to war, and his arms, horses and accoutrements. I am of opinion that if the Turks were to meet the armies of the West they could not overcome them, not because they are lacking in strength, but because they want many of the essentials of war. On this day a great present was carried from Constantinople and taken to the place where the Turks were stationed. I thought that they would sit down and besiege the city, but they continued their march to the Black Sea against a people which had rebelled. It was, indeed, what I desired, for we had but few men, and it would have been difficult to make much resistance. It was, therefore, a gratifying thing to see so great a host depart without peril or labour. Would to God that the people of our country were closer at hand, for there are here neither ships nor fortresses, nor is there any protection except by fighting.

Brusa.-Pera.-Departure from Constantinople.-Tafur rescues some Christian slaves and is wounded.- Mytilene.-Salonica.-A great storm.-Ragusa.-Ancona.-Spalato-A sea monster.

THE next day I asked a friend of mine, a Genoese, who had a house in a city of Turkey which they call Brusa, at the extremity of the Gulf of Nicomedia, to take me with him, and he did so. We went by sea, and I saw the city, which is unwalled, but greater and better than any in Turkey. There are some 4000 inhabitants, and but for the gulf it would be of little value, for by it the merchants have communication with the city. They bring there many things by land from Persia. It is situated very close to Greece, and since the Turks have owned it they have much improved the place, for it is a stepping-stone for the Turks from Greece to their own country. They have placed great stores there, for they use the city as a half-way port. I believe that in the whole of Turkey to-day there is no other place so large, nor so well peopled, nor so rich. From there I returned to Constantmople and Pera, whence I had set out. The city of Pera has about 2000 inhabitants. It is very well walled and has a good ditch and rampart. The churches and monasteries are excellent, and there is a fine exchange, well built and enclosed. The buildings are notable and lofty, as in Genoa. The common people are Greeks, but they are governed by the Genoese who hold all the offices. It is a place of much traffic in goods brought from the Black Sea, as well as from the West, and from Syria and Egypt, and the merchants are all wealthy. Pera was formerly called Galata.

After my return from the Black Sea I remained two months in Constantinople and Pera, and I then departed in a ship of Ancona, carrying with me my slaves and the other things I had purchased in Kaffa. We set sail, taking the route by which we had come, leaving Constantinople behind us, and passing Eregli, Silum bria, Marmora, and Gallipoli. As we sailed through the Straits, close by the Dardanelles, which was the port of Troy, we saw certain men making signs to us to come to shore. The captain said that he knew them to be Christian captives who wanted to escape in our ship, and that we should take no notice of them. But I begged him to launch a boat and go to their assistance, urging that if we left them to their fate it would be no wonder if God sent us bad luck, and in due course he put off a skiff, and I and four others rowed ashore. As we drew near some Turks came up, and seeing that we had come to take the prisoners, they commenced to fight with us. The captain of the ship, being a ready fellow, sent off a boat with twenty men with cross-bows and fire-arms, and it came to shore, and we beat off the Turks and sailed away safely with our Christians. I was wounded in the foot by an arrow, but it was well done, for we lost nothing and served God.

This day we sailed out of the Straits of Romania and anchored in the harbour of Tenedos, opposite Troy. The next day we sailed from there and, doubling the Cape of S. Maria, we came to the island of Mytilene which belongs to the Genoese, where I found the Emperor of Trebizond, who had fled from his brother, having, as I have said, married a daughter of the ruler in order to obtain his help, and he was collecting ships to set out for Trebizond against his brother. They enquired of me concerning the state of things at Trebizond, as it had appeared to me, and I told them the truth, namely, that having the Grand Turk against them they could do nothing which would advantage themselves or injure their enemies. In this island there is much alum, and we loaded our ship with it. We then sailed away and turned towards Greece, taking the route for Salonica. In the sea is a very lofty island, which they call Monte Santo, which the Grand Turk, father of the present one, essayed to capture, but the plague fell on his host, and he was constrained to order all the damage he had done to be repaired, and to make provision for those that live there. The place is ordered on this wise. There is a monastery at the foot of the mountain, another half way up, and a third at the top, and they receive there no one unless he is a noble by birth or has borne arms, or is old and infirm, or maimed. These come to this place and are received and entertained in the first monastery. The monks observe closely how they live, and if they live well, they send them up by election to the monastery in the centre. Here the same rule applies, and when it appears that they are worthy, the monks send them up again to the third and last monastery. They say that those who inhabit there have a great reputation for holiness, and the place is a great resort for pilgrims, and receives much in alms. But those who visit the place are only shown the first monastery. The monks are all Greeks, of the habit and Order of St. Basil. They not only eschew meat, but all fish having blood.

We departed thence, leaving the Gulf of Salonica on the right hand. At the end of the gulf is the city, which not long since was lost by the Venetians, and it happened in this manner. The Turk came to attack it with men by land, and also with his ships from the sea, and the Venetians made ready a great fleet, but it is said that they took counsel and were advised to give up Salonica, for two reasons, the one, because they could not resist the might of the Turks by land, and the other because of the cost of defending the place.

Further, that they had little profit from it, since the fort was not well suited for trading, so that the Venetians and the other Italians set greater store on profit than on honour. They set out with their fleet to engage the Turks, but the Turks destroyed it, and not a man escaped. Thus was the city of Salonica lost. We came next to the island of Negroponto, which is in the Archipelago, and is governed by the Venetians. They say that in ancient times there was a bridge from there to the main land. The island is inhabited by Greeks, and it contains many orchards and much fruit. From there we sailed through the Archipelago, passing many islands, inhabited and uninhabited, on the one hand and on the other, and on the day of the Feast of Pentecost we rested in an island called Andros.

On the second day of the festival we set sail, and ran with a very fresh wind through the Archipelago, but at midnight a great storm arose in the sea so that we all but despaired of our lives, and there was much vowing of pilgrimages East and West. At one time our ship was full of birds which perched upon our shoulders. These were flying from the storm, and sought the ship to escape drowning. They were mostly hoopoes. This, they say, happens seldom, and only during great storms. We arrived at Vespers, with sails torn to shreds, at the. island of Crete, and the wind carried us in shore to that part of the island called Canea, and we drove thus before the wind until we came close to the land where we anchored. Here we remained a day and night and the following day until afternoon. A hermit, who had seen us the day before, driving with bare poles, watched the ship put in, and observing that no one came ashore, and that no movement was to be seen in the ship, entered his boat and came out to us, and found us sleeping. He had been amazed at the fierceness of the storm during the night, and feared that his hermitage would be carried away by the wind, and seeing us come in at dawn he prayed to God for us. The captain remained in the ship repairing the sails, and I and my people went ashore with the hermit to see his house, and we carried victuals which I had in the ship, in particular that kind of fish which the Greek monks eat, and we remained there three days with him, spending the time very pleasantly, and he sent refreshment to the captain from what he had there. As for me, I had experienced such terrors that had I been on the mainland I would never have put to sea again.

But on the fourth day we sailed away once more, and came to Modone, and remained two days outside, since the place is very unhealthy. We then departed, sailing along the coast of Morea to the Gulf of Patras, past the island of Corfu, which I have already described We now entered the Gulf of Venice, leaving Italy on the left hand, and on the right the coast of Albania. We saw many towns on the sea-coast and strong castles, and there is a city called Valona, which the Turks had taken and then ruled. All the sea here is dotted with islands, some inhabited and some uninhabited. We came to the coast of Esclavonia, to a city called Ragusa which is a province of the Emperor of Germany, and this country of Esclavonia they call Dalmatia. There are very fine hawks in these parts, for the country is high and mountainous, and taller people I have never seen anywhere. In Dalmatia and Albania they say that there are many mines where silver is found. The city of Ragusa is very strong. It is situated above the sea and is very rich in merchandise. It looks towards Italy, and on the other side one can see Ancona and its territories. We remained there one day and departed for Ancona, as our ship belonged there and had to discharge certain cargo and go on to Venice. That night we encountered a great storm, and the next day at Vespers we reached Ancona and anchored and went on shore.

We remained at Ancona four days. The city, with all the March of Ancona, as they call it, is of the patrimony of the Church. It is well walled and strong, and the houses are all turreted and lofty, in the manner of Genoa. They say that he who built Genoa also built Ancona, and it well appears from its buildings that it is a very ancient place. They drive a great trade there and fit out many ships, which go about the seas carrying merchandise, and the people on land live more upon trade than on anything else. The country is fruitful in corn and wine and fruit, and in everything needful for life. At that time it was rumoured that Count Francesco, who then had conquered a great part of the March, desired also to take Ancona, and the people were preparing for the defence.

Afterwards I learnt that he had made the attempt, but could not enter the city.

We set sail after four days and drew near to Dalmatia. The coast is much affected by sailors on account of the excellent shelter and anchorage, the like of which is not to be found on the Italian side. So, coasting along Dalmatia, and passing many islands, some inhabited and some uninhabited, like the Archipelago, although in size and population they are not so notable, we came to a town called Spalato, which is also in Dalmatia. St. Jerome and St. Christopher were born in this town, and there is an arm of the sea which passes by a hamlet, where they say St. Christopher carried the poor people across who could not pay for a boat, and even to-day there is some remembrance of the houses of both those saints. In the gulf, which strikes inland here, it happened on several occasions that women who were washing their linen disappeared without anyone knowing the reason. One day, when the women were in the water as usual, a monster, half fish from the middle downwards, and having human shape above, with wings like a bat, attacked one of the women and seized her and carried her down under the water. The other women, and also some men who were there, hearing her cries, ran to the place where the monster was struggling with her, but not even when they attacked it would it let her go. They wounded the beast and dragged it ashore alive, and it was three hours or more before it died. There was then little doubt that the women who had disappeared before had been seized by this monster. They cut it open and salted it, and sent it to the Seigniory of Venice so that it might be dispatched to Pope Eugenius, and a picture was made and carried all over Castile and throughout the world. I did not see the beast, but they told me of it, and it was only a short time since it happened. This place is a Bishopric, and at the court of the Pope I saw the Bishop, who was a native of France.

Parenzo.-Return to Venice,-The fresh pilgrims.-Tafur's goods are seized and released by order of the Doge.-The ceremony of the Marriage of the Sea.-St. Mark's. treasure.-The Emperor Bar barossa and the Pope.

WE departed from Spalato and came to a town called Parenzo, which is at the point of Dalmatia opposite Venice, and it is ruled by the Seigniory. The ships desiring to reach Venice anchor there first, to await the opportunity to enter by the narrows between the two castles, and in all that coast there is good shelter, and excellent anchorage. The next day we sailed into the harbour of Venice, and found many ships outside waiting to sail, and among them the galley for the Holy Sepulchre which we recognized by its banners. We asked why everything was in such readiness, and they told us that it was Ascension Day, and that after Mass and the Blessing each one was to go to his ship to prepare for the voyage. It was on that day, at that hour, two years previously that I had set out for Jerusalem. I enquired if there were any Castilians among the pilgrims, and they told me that Gutierre Quixada and Pero Barva de Campos were going to Jerusalem, and that they were in the city watching the celebrations which were going forward. We entered and disembarked before St. Mark's and went at once to the church to hear Mass, where we found a great concourse of people, since it was on Ascension Day . that the Venetians gained a great victory over the Emperor Barbarossa, as I shall hereafter relate. There I found Gutierre Quixada and Pero Barva and Luys Vanegas and Juan de Angulo, brother to Fernando de Angulo, and many other Castilians with whom I had much pleasure, and they no less with me, and since they were going to Jerusalem, they were able to inform themselves as to how best to undertake the journey, and I told them what they had to do and how much the journey would cost. But it seemed to me that they had fallen out amongst themselves and were going in separate ships. I laboured to reconcile them, but could not do it, and so they departed, some to the oared galley, and others to the galley set aside for poor people. We dined together that day, and after the festival, and having obtained plenary indulgence against sin and punishment, and after the Blessing, I went with them to the sea and saw them embark betimes. I then returned with the other Castilians to the city, and found that the goods I had brought in the ship, including the slaves and the other things, had been taken from me under the pretext that no one could bring goods from the Black Sea unless he was a native of Venice, and that I had not notified them to the customs' authorities. That day, being a great festival, the people assembled in the Piazza of St. Mark, all arrayed in their best, and some seven or eight knights entered, wearing the device of the Emperor Sigismund, which I also wear, and I went at once to them and complained of what had been done. Thereupon they accompanied me to the Doge, who represents the ruler of the country, and the Castilians who were there went also, and I spoke to the Doge, who was in council, and made my complaint. The members of the council asked me to retire for a space while they deliberated, and soon they called me and said: "Sir knight; it is true that we have a law that none can bring with him anything to this city from the Black Sea or the Levant, unless he is a native of Venice, and if he does so his goods are forfeit, and therefore your goods are forfeit by this law, but, as you say, this law is intended to apply, and should apply, to merchants, and your habit debars you from trading; further that what you carry is for your own service, so that the law does not touch you. Your goods are therefore quit, and if the law says otherwise the Seigniory will graciously abrogate it. Also, because of the noble nation to which you belong, we will do you a greater favour. We will not only restore what is yours, but will give you licence to transport your goods whither you desire, a privilege which is not commonly given to any, since nothing which enters Venice can be taken out." I then took my leave of the Doge, who made me many kind offers, and those gentlemen who had accompanied me went with me and procured the deliverance of all my goods, and did not leave me until I reached my lodging. Also that day they sent me wine and comfits and game, and every day when they met me they gave me a hearty welcome, as if they had been my close kinsmen.

On Ascension Day they have great celebrations and exhibit all their treasures, including the treasure of St. Mark, and jewels in the streets at the doors of the houses. The money-changers display their gold and silver, and all the men and women are arrayed very richly, with jewels of great worth. On this day the Doge goes forth in great magnificence, with Papal and Imperial ceremonial, the right to which he obtained, they say, on this day, and there are grand processions, and having heard Mass, he goes with all the clergy to the sea, and they all embark, the Doge and the lords in a ship called Bucentoro, which is a third larger than a galley and twice as broad, and the rowers are below out of sight. It is all hung with rich cloth of gold, and the deck is carpeted with fine tapestry. If strangers or honourable men are present they take them also, carrying crosses and pennons, very richly worked in drawn gold. So full is the sea with ships that the water can hardly be seen. They sail out to sea and betake themselves to the entrance to the harbour, where are the two castles, and there, making certain orations, the priest pronounces a blessing and throws in Holy Water, and the Doge draws a ring from his finger and casts it into the sea. This, they say, is an ancient ceremony for wedding the sea to the land to placate its fury, since their city is founded in the sea, and from the sea they draw all that they have.

When this was finished it was an hour before all the ships could separate, and after the Blessing they spread their sails and took their courses, which is a wonderful thing to see. The Doge then returned, with all his gentlemen, to a sandy beach between the castles, where is a notable monastery of friars, and there disembarking, they all feasted with the Doge at his expense and made merry, and in the evening they returned to the city. This day I went to see the treasure of St. Mark, and certain people of the city went with me so that all should be shown me, although everything was on view. There I beheld much riches, especially pearls, and precious stones, quantities of rubies, diamonds, and balas rubies, among them three stones in three candlesticks, but set loosely so that one can take them in the hand to look at them. There are bishops' mitres loaded with pearls and precious stones and silver, and palliums, also covered with jewels and pearls, and great quantities of gold and silver, and they say also that there is a rare piece of carbuncle. In truth, a greater display of riches I never saw. There is a retable, which they call La Pala, entirely covered with pearls and precious stones, but I cannot write at length of it as it would take up too much space.

The Venetians say that the Emperor Barbarossa waged such war on the Pope that he gained all the patrimony of the Church, and caused the Pope to flee and take shelter in Venice, where he remained a long time in a monastery without being discovered. Then one came to know of it who saw him, and he told the Doge, and he with the council went to seek the Pope in that, monastery, but could not find him, and they made all the friars come out, down to the cook, and then they found him, for he was the cook. They took him and carried him away with them, and dressed him with the ceremony which belonged to him, and lodged him in the palace of the Seigniory, and there he was treated and reverenced as the Pope. They wrote also to Rome, and to all Italy, saying that the Pope was there, and they notified the Emperor and begged him to restore the patrimony of the Church so that the Pope might return worthily to Rome. The Emperor, incensed against the Pope and against the Venetians, armed a great fleet and came to Venice, as far as the two castles, and the Venetians had a great fleet there, and they went out against him, and fought with him, and overcame him, so that he had to flee, and they took his son prisoner. The son, being there in prison, asked the Pope to let him go on his word, and that he would endeavour to bring the Emperor, his father, to obedience, and that if he did not succeed he would return to prison. The Pope, with the consent of the Seigniory, gave him licence, and dispatched him in a galley to the city of. Ancona where his father was, and there he spoke with him, and begged him to return to his obedience to the Pope and submit to him, and restore what was his, but he could not persuade him, and he returned to prison. But within a few days the Emperor sent to desire that his son might have licence to come again and have speech with him, as he desired to respond to the proposals which he had made concerning the Pope. The son craved licence from the Pope and the Seigniory, as before, and accepted the conditions, and set off once more, and came to his father. Then the Emperor consented with him of his own free will, and even acknowledged to have done evil in the past, and desired to submit to the Pope, and to restore what was his and beg for pardon, and to place himself in his hands. With this accord the son returned to Venice, and there was much pleasure over the Emperor's good reply, and they armed a great fleet, and the greatest in the city went in it. They filled it with gear and all things necessary to carry so great a lord, and came to the city of Ancona where the Emperor received them very honourably. He entered the ship and came to Venice, where he was treated very magnificently, and they took him to the church of St. Mark. They say, further, that they placed him at the door lying on the ground so that the Pope should pass over him, and so it was, for the Pope, coming out of his palace and entering the church, stepped over him saying the verse: Super aspidem et basiliscum ambulabis etc. The Emperor replied: "That was not said to you but to St. Peter," and the Pope made answer: "To St. Peter and to me, and to me and to St. Peter." Then he raised him up and gave him his peace, and the Emperor asked pardon and confessed that he had sinned, where upon the Pope pardoned him, and presently the Emperor restored all the patrimony of the Church which he had taken.

The Emperor remained in Venice ten days amidst great rejoicings, and the Doge accompanied the Pope and the Emperor to Ancona in his fleet, with the greatest lords of the country, at his charges. At Ancona the Emperor had made great preparations to receive them, that city with its Marches being one of the richest of the Church's patrimonies. They re- mained there a further ten days feasting, after which the Pope and the Emperor went to Rome, and the Doge returned with his people to Venice. It is related that the Pope and the Emperor told the Doge that he might ask what favour he would of them, since he had per formed so excellent a work, and they would grant it, and he requested of both of them the right to use their ceremonials. They granted the request, and the Doge to this day uses the Papal and Imperial ceremonials. He then took leave of the Pope and the Emperor and came to Venice, and in a great hall, the greatest and richest which they have in their palace on the sea, they have set up the history of this affair, which is painted very, richly. This is the reason why the Venetians have these celebrations on Ascension Day, for on that day they won their victory, and the Pope then granted them plenary indulgence for sin and punishment, and the ships do not depart until they have gained it.