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                                                                                                               CHAPTER XVIII.

 

Struck our tents at 7 A.M., and commenced the ascent of Mount Lebanon. The scenery was exceedingly wild and picturesque; we fol­lowed a tiresome track among the rugged hills covered with trees which stand at the base of the range, and the ascent of the steep bare sides of the mount itself proved most tedious and difficult. Within a hundred and fifty yards of the summit, we crossed a great quantity of snow, over which our poor mules staggered with much difficulty, and fell several times

 

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with our baggage. At noon we reached the summit, where we halted for a short time; it was, unfortunately, a dull day, and we saw but little of the great valley.

The descent was very steep; we left our mules behind us, and at 2 P.M., arrived at the Cedars, the most interesting surely of all natural monu­ments. Only seven of the old trees remain, beautiful in themselves, and hallowed by so many associations. The snow at this season descends to within a few feet of these ancient trees, but earlier in the year extends far beyond them, and is so deep as to prevent a near approach; but in the middle of summer, the inhabitants of the valley ascend hither to perform mass beneath them. About two hun­dred young trees have sprung up, forming a noble clump.

We remained some hours at the Cedars, the scenery is of the wildest character; the dullness of the day was a source of some regret, but the wild peaks of the

 

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Lebanon, and the variety and loveliness of the tints of the snow which crown them, furnished us with ample matter for ad­miration.

A quarter of an hour's walk brought us in sight of Beshirai, the most beautiful spot in the Lebanon; it is built on the slope of a very deep ravine, whose sides are built up in terraces, well watered and cultivated; at the extremity of the ravine a small stream falls over a precipice of two hundred feet in height, giving an addition to what might be deemed perfect without it. From the place where we stood, the flat-roofed houses of the beautiful village appeared almost buried in a mass of deep coloured foliage, out of which rose clumps of tall poplars, and hundreds of neat terraces covered the slopes below. The mountains on the opposite side rise to an immense height, their sides quite covered with trees, and through this splendid ravine the Kasheda pursues its serpentine course. Many of the villagers were seated in parties in their gardens, apparently busily engaged; their picturesques dresses en­livened the prospect.

 

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We pitched our tents in a mulberry-grove, close to the village, to which we were conducted by the inhabitants, who appeared delighted to see us; they are Maronites and Christians, and a nice-looking people; many of the women I thought very beautiful. The matrons wear an unsightly appendage, a horn, (generally of silver,) which projects from a foot and a half to two feet from the forehead and over which is thrown a large veil. This preposterous orna­ment is not removed even at night.

One young fellow came to our tent who could speak Italian and French very well, and who acted, during our short stay, as dragoman, while Ishmael was engaged; and his services as interperter was put in active requisition; for while we were smoking after dinner, we were surrounded by a large portion of the population of Beshirai.

Next day we sent our baggage on to Tripoli,

 

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and rode along the slope overhanging the ravine in which this loveliest of villages lies; it is irrigated by numberless little aqueducts, and so well cultivated, that not a yard of available ground is lost.

We left our horses, and descended about two hundred feet down the steep side of the ravine, to the convent of Kanobin, the seat of the Maronite Patriarch. It is singularly situated on a nar­row ledge of rock, overhanging the ravine, and the scene from this point is beautiful. The in­terior of the convent was wretched; none of the monks could speak Italian; we soon made them understand our wants, but these they ill-sup­plied, for the fare placed before us detestable; we remained about an hour, and then set forth upon the track leading to Eden; this we found dangerous, but escaped without a fall.

The whole country is beautifully cultivated, clad with vineyards and mulberry-groves. We passed through one very pretty village, whose inhabitants saluted us in a friendly manner,

 

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and we crossed a deep ravine, through which dashed a foaming torrent, close to which stands the village of Eden. Its houses have only a ground floor, are built of stone, and flat-­roofed.

We paid the sheik a visit, but found him enjoying a siesta, so we took our seats on the divan, and had a long chat with his dragoman, who proved to be a very superior fellow, and spoke French and Italian well. Sweetmeats, lemonade, and coffee, were handed round, and after an hour's rest, we took our leave, but would not allow the slumbers of the sheik to be disturbed.

A short distance from Eden the descent be­came very steep and rough; we reached the foot of the Lebanon range at 5 P.M., after a most fatiguing march. We saw an immense number of villages among the mountains, and the spire of a convent in each.

The Maronites form the most numerous pro­portion of the population of the Lebanon; there

 

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are also many Druses, who are Mahometans, or as some say, of no religion.

The hills and valleys at the foot of the range are exceedingly rich and picturesque; we fol­lowed the course of a fine stream which rises among them, and runs through the plain to Tripoli. Olives and mulberry-groves, many of them bright with the blossoms of the oleanders, border its banks, and after a delightful ride beneath their shade, we reached Tripoli at half ­past 7 P.M. The town stands a quarter of a mile from the sea, its streets are very narrow, but the houses being built of lightish coloured stone, and surrounded by numerous trees, it looked beautiful by moonlight. I noticed a few palms, but they are very scarce in Syria.

At 9 A.M. we left Tripoli; the orange-grove in which we had passed the night, was beau­tiful; the trees were out in bloom, and the odour from them was delicious. We rode by the sea-side all this day, passing one village in which the plague was raging; fortunately, we

 

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did not enter it, but there was no cordon to prevent our doing so.

Reached Djebail at 8 P.M., and pitched our tent on an elevated space close to its walls. The sun set gloriously, and then the moon arose above the Lebanon--a lovely night, our last under canvas, for Beyrout is but a day's journey hence.

Struck our tents at 7 A.M., and continued our march along the coast; crossed the Dog River (which is a noble stream) by a fine bridge, and halted for an hour at a khan it; passed another river, and soon after saw Beyrout distinctly, and heard the royal salute fired in honour of the birth-day of our Queen; we arrived at half-past 4, and found the---92 guns, the---36, and the H---Steamer, in the roadstead, decked out in all their flags; also, a French corvette, and two Austrian men-of-war, with a few mer­chantmen, all within three quarters of a mile of the town, for it has no harbour.

 

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The heat was dreadful all night, and the mosquitoes bit se­verely, for none of our curtains could keep them out.

25th. The Austrian steamer arrived, and we secured our berths; and then H-- and I paid H.M.S.--- a visit; we had Ishmael with us, and it was quite laughable to see him with his sword, swaggering among the crew., They weighed while we were on board, and when the sails were shaken out we left her, and she bore gently away for the Dog River for water, but there was but little wind, and the heat dreadful.

27th. Beyrout is like an oven; the heat during the few days we remained there was excessive, and I felt exceedingly weak and languid.

Towards evening, two or three of us went on board the " Inconstant," for the sake of a little fresh air; the view of Beyrout and the mountains behind, was beautiful from the deck.

The town was full of Albanian soldiers, who insulted every one they met in the streets; they cared not a fig for their officers.

 

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It had been the intention of the Government to march them into the Lebanon mountains; but I believe the hardy Maronites would soon have destroyed such soldiers as they are; the general opinion of them is, that they are only fit to cut the throats of women and children.

We bade adieu to our faithful Ishmael to­night, and completed our preparations for quit­ting Beyrout on the morrow.

                                                                                                                    -------------

April and May, though unhealthy months, are the best for travelling in Syria, the weather then being delightful. The wet season com­mences in the autumn, and the great heat about the middle of May, when the plague vanishes. The dews are very heavy, and the swarms of flies, beetles, and all sorts of vermin, render a residence under canvas in this country any­thing but agreeable; but, nevertheless, a tent is indispensable, for the miserable khans offer us many drawbacks to comfort, and more to cleanliness.

 

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The mules are fine strong animals, and are chiefly used for the transport of baggage; the horses are good serviceable hacks; they walk fast, and a very sure-footed. Many of the tracks are exceedingly dangerous, particularly those between Hebron and Solomon's pools, and between Beshirai and Eden. An English saddle is necessary, for theirs are instruments of torture to Europeans.

The scenery throughout the country is varied and beautiful, the soil extremely rich and well cultivated, and the herbage excellent. The song of the husbandman is heard in every val­ley, and the hills and plains are enlivened by numerous herds of cattle, and flocks of sheep and goats. The prickly oak (which although much smaller, closely resembles our own noble tree) gives a park-like appearance to the coun­try: and the prickly pear (which blooms in May),

 

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encircles. many a picturesque village, forming a beautiful and massive wall.

The land is studded with forests of olives, is in the narrow valleys of the Lebanon the vine is cultivated to a great extent; while be­tween Tripoli and Beyrout the mulberry is the principal care, cultivated for silk-worms, but no ground is lost, for they grow corn and vege­tables under them. They manufacture the silk, and the beautiful sashes worn by the Turks and Arabs come either from Beyrout or Tripoli. The Syrian tobacco is the finest in the world. The produce of the country (silk, tobacco, olives, corn, and cattle,) is sent principally to Egypt. The trees are--the prickly oak, poplar; alder, beech, willow, mulberry, ash, cedar, fig, olive, and prickly pear: oleanders and other rubs in abundance.

Several of its rivers are fine; the Dog River, Jordan and Barada, are the largest; but the little Kishon is the most useful, for it fertilizes one of the most beautiful plains in the country.

           

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The most picturesque towns are Nablous and Damascus; but nothing I have seen can be com­pared to the lovely village of Beshirai.

The towns and villages of Syria are inhabited by Christians, Jews, and Turks, while a race; resembling the Bedouins in dress and appear­ance, dwell in tents, and are much feared by their peaceful neighbours.

The greater part of the Lebanon is inhabited by the Maronites, who are Christians, and deservedly bear a good character; for they are a delightful people, fortunately a numerous one, and rather too powerful for the Sultan, who lately made an attempt to bring them under his yoke, by ordering them to disarm, and sending a body of troops to Beyrout, but he was foiled by their bravery and determination. Many of them declared to us, that should the Albanians march into the Lebanon, they would never let them return out of it. They have always been governed by their own Emir, (subject to the Porte,) and I hope will ever remain so.

 

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If well governed, Syria would be an exceedingly rich country, but never can be under the Turkish rule; for so long as the Pashas pay their annual tribute to the Porte, no notice whatever is taken of the amount extorted from the in­habitants.

The Druses, who wear the turban, profess to be Mahometans, but conform to any religion; they are a wild, lawless set, and are independent of the Sultan; they inhabit a small portion of the Lebanon, and are constantly at war with their Maronite neighbour who care little for them, being so much more numerous and powerful than they.

The Mahometans of Damascus, Hebron, and Nablous, are the most bigoted in Syria. In Nablous, one English gentleman was obliged to

remove from his hat a green veil, that being the sacred colour, which none but Hadj are allowed to wear in their turbans. Their women cover the face entirely.

The inhabitants of Syria, (particularly the Christians,) spoke well of Ibraham Pasha, and all appeared to regret the return of the Turks.

 

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            Distances:--Hebron to Jerusalem, one day's march; Jerusalem to Damascus, seven; Damas­cus to Baalbec, two; Baalbec to Beyrout, four, by Tripoli.

Average rate of travelling, about three and a half miles an hour.

 

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                                                                                                                  CHAPTER XIX.

 

28th. On going on board the steamer, which was to carry us to Constantinople, we found three-parts of the deck partitioned off for Negip Pasha and suite, but the captain informed us that the whole of the cabin was at our service. Sailed at 8 P.M.: a few storms of rain--calm sea--fine night. Made Cyprus, at 8 A.M., but the yellow flag waved at our mast-head, and we were not allowed to land; we anchored off the island five or six hours; its appearance is very barren. Came in sight of the rugged and magnificent coast of Asia Minor, and sailed all

                                                                                                                         M2

 

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day, in shore, sometimes not more than a quarter of a mile distant from it. The high peaks in the back-ground were splendid, many of them covered with snow.

31st. Reached Rhodes at 5 P.M., and spent the night in its beautiful harbour; a glorious sunset. Our yellow flag effectually prevented any one from shore paying their respects.

June 1st. Beautiful morning; left  Rhodes with a favourable wind, and as we steamed through the channel, (which may be from four to five miles in width,) the town and island looked lovely; its mosques, and graceful minarets, rising in dazzling whiteness above masses of foliage. Spoke an Austrian frigate, and reached Cos in the evening; remained there only a few minutes; steamed away all night, and were at Smyrna at eight next morning.­ The appearance of the gulf and town was pleasing, particularly the latter, when lighted up at night.

 

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4th Beautiful morning; entered the Dardanelle’s at 10 A.M. The first strong forts we saw were Chalnak Kalessi, on the Asiatic shore, and a large one opposite it; the guns in one of its batteries are immense, and made for throwing the large marble shot, used by the Turks; the forts are very numerous, and all stand on low headlands, close to the water's edge, and opposite each other; they might be all carried with ease by land. The width of the stream is about a mile and a half on the average; between Sestos and Abydos, I should think it a mile and a quarter at least, and the current strong. The coast is low and flat on the Asiatic shore, but on the European, it is shut in by a pretty range of hills. Entered the Sea of Mannora before 10, sun-set, and at dusk were off the island of that name. Fine night.

5th. About ten minutes before sun-rise we turned the Seraglio point, and anchored in the Golden Horn. Of the appearance of Constan­tinople from this point, and at sun-rise, words must fail to give anything like an adequate idea;

 

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she has a regal beauty, which admits not of comparison. “See Naples and die," says the Italian proverb; Genoa writes herself  ”La superba," and in desolate majesty does Venice still "sit in state, throned on her hundred isles;" and truly and joyously have I rendered my homage to each of them; but here is that which exceeds in majesty and loveliness, all that memory could regal, or imagination picture. Out of the sea, blue as the Rhone's blue waters, rise the seven hills whereon this peerless city sits; terrace rises above terrace, and between them spring up the graceful plantain and the solemn cypress trees; numberless domes, mina­rets, and kiosks, bright with gilding, and dainty colours glitter in the sun-light ; gardens, moun­tains, and villages, stretch out beyond and around, while hundreds of vessels, of all forms, and of all nations, ride at anchor, forming an incomparable beautiful foreground to the scene I have sketched. Our own proud ships lay there, the Pasha's fleet, and many Arab boats,

 

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whose elevated prows, and general form, re­mind one of the ancient galleys; and smaller and fairy-like, the caiques, by hundreds, dotted and brightened the smooth water.

We enjoyed the enchanting scene only for half an hour, when our boat returned from the quarantine office, and we were ordered to the Lazaretto for fifteen days. The captain told us our bill of health was a very bad one.

Steered up the Bosphorus, passed the Turkish fleet, and the Sultan's palace, and arrived at our prison at 7 A.M. Our baggage was placed in a small room to be fumigated, and the doctor, (an Italian,) informed us, we could shorten the terns of our detention six days, by performing " spog­lio;" so one after another, we ducked ourselves in a large tub, the doctor standing by, to see that we all  “performed spoglio" properly. They gave us fresh clothes, but could not provide us with beds, (our own were being fumigated,) and we were all obliged to sleep on the floor. There was not a single piece of furniture in the

 

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room, if I except a small brazier, and round this, it was ridiculous enough to see us all squatted. At night I was covered with vermin, and had it not been for the restlessness of my companions, could have fancied I was engrossing their whole attention.

6th. We passed a miserable day, having no soap, brushes, or other toilet requisites, papers, or books. In the evening, Misseri (of whom more hereafter) sent us beds and some other necessaries. Next morning after breakfast, the same individual presented himself with a wel­come supply of newspapers. This day all our things, except our beds, were given up, and we were pretty comfortable. We had an Italian cook with us, and two guardians, who made themselves " generally useful." An Italian, (who was pratique,) outside, went twice or thrice to the city for us.

The Lazaretto is about three miles from Con­stantinople, and stands close to the Bosphorus, overlooking which we had five windows,

 

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commanding a view of the new palace, the fleet, and a large portion of the town, and hundreds of caiques enlivened the scene. The hills which enclose the Bosphorus on either side, are covered with plantations, and studded with villages, kiosks, and pretty gardens, and a more delight­ful prospect I could not have desired. Our walks were confined to the large court of the Lazaretto, which we never entered without a  “guardiano," who carried a long stick, for the purpose of keeping all people and things at a safe distance--a need precaution I thought, on our arrival, for we found everybody anxious to avoid us; and during the last day or two we remained in our rooms, not wishing to run the risk of another week's imprisonment, by the possible contact with any object, to which the suspicion of infection could he attached by our watchful guardians.

We were much amused during the day by the lively scene on the water; a great many

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Turkish ladies passed under our windows in their caiques; their noses and eyes were unco­vered, and we could see the other part of their faces distinctly through the thin gauze they wear over it. Their complexions were beau­tiful--their faces round, their features large and regular; of their figures we could see no­thing, for they were entirely enveloped in large loose cloaks.

We were favoured, too, with the sight of some European ladies, who walked every even­ing under the noble palm-trees close to our prison; we saw, also, a few gaudy carriages, drawn by oxen, large enough for six or eight persons, and now and then a troop of cavalry. On one occasion, the Sultan visited a mosque in a village nearly opposite the Lazaretto, and was saluted by the ships and the numerous batteries on the Bosphorus.

It was pretty to watch the course of the fish at night by the phosphoric light they occa­sioned; but with all this, and a rubber occasionally

 

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besides, we were. glad when the 14th, arrived, the last day of our confinement.

The Doctor and Governor made their appear­ance at an early hour with leave for us to quit the Lazaretto. Misseri had a large caique for our baggage, and smaller ones for ourselves; and between 8 and 9 A.M., we left our prison, and feasted our eyes anew on the beauty of Constantinople as we glided down the smooth stream thither. On landing, we were escorted to the hotel so nicely kept by Misseri and his wife (an English woman) in here we found an excellent breakfast ready, the table-cloth white as snow, and everything else in the house as clean and comfortable as one could wish.

Having done justice to the breakfast aforesaid, I and H-- strolled forth, and had not proceeded far, when we met Baron B--, our companion on the Nile. After exchanging salutations and news, the Baron informed me that the Belgian Minister bad obtained a firman from the Sultan to visit the Seraglio and the

 

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great mosques of the city, and kindly offered to introduce me; and it being finally settled that the advantage of the firman should be ex­tended to all my party, the next day at 11, we started with the Belgian Minister, crossed the Golden Horn, and landed near the Seraglio, over which we were conducted by a great many guides. Since the erection of the new palace, this has not been inhabited by the Sultan. I was disappointed with the building, but the gardens are pretty.

The Great Mosque of St. Sophia is very mag­nificent; we were obliged to put on slippers over our boots before we were allowed to enter. The whole interior is simple and grand; the aisles are very lofty, and from their roofs hun­dreds of lamps are suspended. From the gal­lery which runs round the western aisle, we had a fine view of this vast building, which is one of the most ancient in Stamboul, having been partly built by Constantine. The cupola is immense, (certainly not smaller than that of

 

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St. Peter's, at Rome), and beautifully formed; this is more, however, than I can say, for some of the columns which appear to have formed part of other temples before they were placed here; those which support the gallery seemed in a falling state. The form of the Mosque is that of a Greek cross. The magnificent dome rises in the centre, and graceful minarets at the four corners.

We visited three other mosques--that of Soliman the Magnificent; the mosque of Sultan Osman, highly decorated; and the mosque of Sultan Achmet,--its appearance is light and modern; this mosque has six minarets, but the more usual number is four, and all have a dome in the centre; and before all, too, is a court where numerous fountains flow beneath the grateful shade of stately trees. Here the faith­ful perform their ablutions, and from the light lace-work-like galleries that encircle the mina­rets, does the muezzen call to prayer.

 

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I was quite delighted with the solemn grandeur of these mosques; they were silent as the grave, though hundreds were at prayers within their walls.

We visited some very ancient tombs of the sultans, and the modern one of the late Sultan, Mahomed; it is circular, and built of beautiful white marble; the tomb itself is covered with elegant shawls, and is surmounted by a fez ornamented with brilliants, and on a stand richly inlaid with mother-of-pearl, &c., is placed a fine copy of the Koran. Having spent the day in this manner, I returned by the only bridge over the Golden Horn.

The Sultan went to a mosque as usual, and afterwards proceeded six or seven miles up the Bosphorus to the "sweet waters of Asia;" we followed, and found it a beautiful spot, where two pretty streams run into the Bosphorus; the scenery around is fine. The Sultan remained some hours enjoying himself in a kiosk close to the water's edge, and hundreds of ladies were promenading attended by their black guardians.

 

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The Sultan has many of these kiosks, and on our return we landed at one of the finest, standing on a high hill above our old prison, from which we enjoyed a splendid view of the city, the sea of Marmora, and almost the whole of the Bosphorus.

We next visited the slave-market, which was very full indeed; saw but few white slaves; but were struck with the grace and beauty of some of a darker tint, Abyssinians. So com­pletely is slavery considered in the East the natural position of woman, and so inseparable from the state of society, as there constituted, is that system which makes her a recognised object of barter, that in very many instances, instead of the shrinking from view, the timi­dity which the European dreads to see, he observes the girl herself rather anxious than otherwise, to become the property of a pur­chaser who may place her in a position, of which neither religion, custom, nor education, have taught her the degradation. Indeed, so anxious.

 

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are the Circassians to secure for their daugh­ters a place in the harem of some rich Turk, that they are brought up with the greatest care, with this view only, and smuggled into Con­stantinople in defiance of the regulations made by Russia to prevent this disgraceful commerce. The most beautiful slaves, and among these, of course are the Georgians, are carefully kept from general view.

18th of June, and we did not let the anni­versary of Waterloo pass without a health to the great captain; and while enjoying an extra bottle on the occasion, the alarm of fire was given, which proved to be raging in the Jews' quarter; we ran down to the Golden Horn, and getting into a caique, rowed in that direc­tion, and a more splendid sight could not be imagined than the queenly city illuminated by the raging flame, and reflected in the smooth still sea, presented. The Golden Horn was co­vered with caiques, and the Turks who filled them devoutly ejaculated, “Allah, Illah, Allah!"

 

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"God is great!" while in compliance with their superstitious belief in predestination, both they and those on shore abstained from making the slightest attempt to arrest the progress of a visitation which they consider sent immediately from God.

The houses are of wood and soon consumed. I noticed some close to the water's edge which were completely destroyed in the course of a few minutes. We staid till 2 in the morning, at which hour the fire was still lighting up the stately city.

June 19th. We went to the quarantine Lazaretto to fetch our baggage, and passed several hours of the day on the water. In the Bos­phorus were five line-of-battle ships (one 130 guns) and in the Golden Horn six line-of-battle ships, and about ten large frigates in ordinary; but the Turks have not had a fine fleet since the battle of Navarino.

Constantinople is divided by the Golden Horn from Para and Galata; there is one bridge,

 

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but hundreds of caiques are employed in carry­ing passengers over; the price for one which would hold five or six persons is half a piastre. These boats are long and narrow, one of thirty feet long not being much more than three feet wide; they make their way rapidly through the water, but are very uncomfortable and crank; if you move the least on one side, the rower cannot use his sculls, which are large and heavy; in many of the caiques they pull three pair; they scull very well indeed.

The state caiques in which the Sultan only goes to the mosques, are very long; their bows much out of the water, and their glittering, gilded prows many feet in advance of the body of the boat; they have each twenty-four rowers, who rise from their seats and throw their whole weight on their oars; these are built on the same principle as the other caiques, painted white and gold, and have a particularly clas­sical appearance.

All the Turks, whose means admit of keeping

 

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a caique, do so; indeed, they are indispensable for those, who in the course of business, must have often in the day to cross the water; these private caiques are rowed by the servants of their owners; the rowers, who are employed in the public ones, are a fine set of men; their dress is a pair of very full white drawers, a shirt with large hanging sleeves, open at the breast, and loose about their finely turned-throat, a crimson silk sash round the waist, and a small red cap, with a long silk tassel on the head.

I enjoyed this day exceedingly, everything was so full of beauty; thousands of the elegant boats I have been describing, around a forest of shipping of all nations, before us, Constanti­nople at a little distance, and the sea washing the marble terraces of many houses close at hand, while graceful trees hung over the balus­trades, even into the very water; above flew those birds, called by the Turks, the " souls of the damned," for they are never seen to rest, but

 

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winging their way over the Bosphorus, and altogether, the scene was one of enchantment. Spent the next day in the bazaars; the armoury bazaar is the richest, containing an immense quantity of splendid objects. Besides the mass, led by curiosity to visit them, a great many men walk through with carpets, and all sorts of merchandize for sale, which they offer to those seated in their stalls. The dogs every where are incredibly numerous, and are to be seen sleeping, I had almost said in masses, in the narrow streets, where I have often been obliged to step over them, for they will not move for you. They know their respective quarters well, and should one of their number so far forget himself as to intrude upon the precincts of a separate community, he is soon made aware of the indiscretion, for they unite to drive out the intruder by force.

24th. We took a caique to see the Sultan go to a mosque, but could only get near enough to see a fez; all the ships salute as he passes,

 

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and it was a treat to me to hear it, and I may add, to see it; for a new and beautiful effect was thrown over the port and city, as both were for a few moments veiled in the smoke.

Went to see the dancing dervishes; we were obliged to take our boots off, and were then admitted into a narrow space, round a small circular area, in which were seventeen dervishes sitting in the Turkish fashion; a rather tedious service was performed by the chief, after which, the sixteen rose and saluted him, threw off their cloaks, and commenced spinning round, in an extraordinary manner, to the sounds of a, small drum and pipe; we saw several bouts, each of which lasted nearly ten minutes; their large petticoats were expanded, and elevated, almost to their waists, by the rapidity of their movements, which were executed with great precision. The ladies were accommodated in a gallery above, screened by heavy lattice work; through which we could see nothing of them. The heat of the last few days had been very

 

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great, and we made preparations for leaving Old Stamboul, and in the afternoon of the 27th, went on board the French war-steamer, at anchor in the Golden Horn, and steamed round the Seraglio point at half-past 5 P.M. The town presents an immense front towards the Sea of Marmora, but its appearance thence is by no means pleasing. No, the City of the Crescent is not seen in its beauty, till the travel­ler thitherwads has turned the Seraglio point.

 

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                                                                                                                CHAPTER XX.

 

29th. Enjoyed a delightful passage to Smyrna, where we arrived at 1 A.M., and spent the day and night on shore; it is a disagreeable, dirty town. The French Admiral was at anchor in the Inflexible, close to it, in company with another line-of-battleship, and a corvette: there was a gentle breeze in the evening, and the Admiral weighed and stood out to sea, in com­pany with a steamer,--a sight this, I never tire of looking on.

Beautiful moonlight night. 30th. At 8 A.M. we left Smyrna, but night found us near Chio;

 

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the sea ran very high, it blew half a gale of wind, and we were tossed about famously. Arrived at Syra at  4 A.M., and at 8 A.M. we were conveyed to the quarantine establishment; the director gave us a small room in which we took breakfast: we opened all our baggage, which they fumigated; we then went down to the sea, and performed spoglio, with our guardiano, who also took a dip and changed his clothes; they gave us a comfortable room, the windows of which commanded the bay and town of Syra, which are extremely pretty, when viewed from this spot. Having performed spoglio, we had only nine days' quarantine to go through, which passed very pleasantly.

On the 2nd, we were allowed to take our baggage: we enjoyed a bath in the sea every evening, from the pier-head; we jumped into five fathoms of water, so beautifully clear, that the bottom could be seen. We were allowed to walk in front of the building, (during the day,)

 

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down to the sea, between a large open space enclosed by high walls. I wrote to the British Consul, who kindly sent us a number of papers; we were enjoying the fresh air from our windows when I fancied that something was running about me, and on clapping my hand on my leg, I felt a bite, and a large centipede nearly three inches in length fell from me; I called the guardiano, who appeared to think it a serious affair. He killed the creature, and rubbed the wound (which was very much swollen,) with it; I had a stiff leg for three days. Our fare during the last few days of our detention was so bad, that we threatened to complain to our consul.

9th. Once more in freedom; we left the Laza­retto very early, and crossed the bay to Syra; the miserable inn was quite full, but its owner gave us a delightful cottage, in which we were very comfortable indeed; a covered gallery ran round it, facing the sea, which almost washed its walls, and there we enjoyed ourselves during the heat of the day, and in the evening walked on the fine promenade above the town.

 

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It was a calm, lovely evening, and as we were en­joying its serenity, the "Inflexible'' entered the harbour, and looked beautiful as she passed within a few hundred yards of the rock on which we stood; her fine band played the Marseilles' hymn as she came majestically onwards, and its thrilling strains, in such a scene, stealing over the wave as the sun sunk beneath it, had an effect which never will pass from my recollection:--­

 

It was a gorgeous eve!  the broad sea slept,

Robed in the lustrous hues of that bright clime;

And from the shore a faint sweet odour crept

From the pale orange flowers and from the lime.

 

The sun had set, But the broad arch of heaven

Was steeped in purple, or was dyed with gold;

So much of beauty to that hour was given,

It seemed the spell was perfect;--when behold!

 

 

There swept a strain of music o'er the wave!

Tones that have stirred to good or evil deeds;

And won men on to glory or the grave,

As freedom, tyranny, or fury leads!

 

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Anon, the trumpet's echoes wandered by,

And as the ear caught their last brazen sound;

The drooping lid closed o'er the listener's eye,

Sated with gazing on the glory round.*

 

The next evening we spent with the Consul and his two pretty daughters, neither of whom being able to speak a word of English, the conversation was carried on in French.

11th. This morning an English man-of-war (eighty guns) arrived, and saluted within a few hundred yards of our windows, which were nearly shaken from their frames. She sent a boat to the town, and on its return spread her canvas to the wind and bore away.

 

*The description of this particular evening suggested the above lines to the Authoress; she abstains from making any change in them, as they could not in that

case claim the indul­gence usually granted to an impromptu.

N 2

 

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12th. At 10 A.M. we approached Port Piraeus. There is not, perhaps, a spot in all Greece that more forcibly brings before the mental vision her former state. Hence did Athens send forth galleys gorgeously equipped for fight; here an Alcibiades (so eminent for beauty in a land whose people were so richly dowered therewith) stood on the gilded poop, while her old men, her maids, and matrons came out to join in the shout that went up for his­ for their success. The trumpets sound, the Athenian youths that fill the ships join in the hymn of battle. The golden cups are every where filling with wine; the libations are poured; and so they sail out of port. But vision after vision crowds on the fancy, for how many of the glorious names of Greece are there not linked with the prospect here?  Entirely must we revert to the past for all the charm-­-a railroad now runs where the " Long Walls" stood. Yes, that famous fortification which Themistocles raised, whose destruction Lysander

 

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made an express stipulation, which Conon re­built, to suffer in later times, from the Roman Sylla, now lie " low in the dust."

But a truce to dreaming:--we have entered the port, and shall soon set foot on that little portion of Europe which in a comparatively short space of time rose to the height of intel­lectual refinement; which in the imperishable arts of sculpture, architecture, and poetry, left to all that should come after them a standard whereby to measure and find themselves want­ing; which, great in its own strength, bids defiance to united millions, and left the world examples of magnanimity and devotion un­paralled in its history.

The Pirzeus is a beautiful harbour; the en­trance is very narrow, but line ships can enter on the payment of a drachma or two. On landing, our baggage was allowed to pass un­opened, and we started immediately for Athens, which is distant five miles. We took up our abode at an hotel on the outskirts of the town.

 

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but within reach of so many splendid ruins; we had not courage to go out before sunset, so contented ourselves with looking at the Piraeus from our windows.

Athens reached its highest degree of splen­dour during the administration of Pericles, in the early part of the fifth century, before Christ; and in the year 1667, all the ruins visible at the present day in the Acropolis were in a good state of preservation. In1687 it suffered by the hands of the Venetians; and sub­sequently from the Turks, who bombarded it from the Lycabettus. Still how much of beauty have time, war, and Lord Elgin left!

The Acropolis, an isolated rock, rises one hundred and fifty feet above the plain, to the south of the modern town, and commands a view of the country, whose appearance is exceedingly barren, except where a large olive grove spreads from the base of Mount Corydalus to the Piraeus; to the North Mount Lycabettus rises to a considerable height above

 

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the Acropolis, beyond Lycabettus and in the same direction rises the Parnese range, which is joined by a low ridge to the Pentelic range; on the north-east (which furnished the beauti­ful white marble of which ancient Athens was built); on the west, lie Mounts Egialus, Corydalus, and Amphialus; while on the east, the splendid range of the Hymettus shuts in the plain. At the foot of the last-named, flows the Ilissus, a small stream; and from each of the elevations in and around the city, the sea can be seen. The sides of the Acropolis are perpendicular on the north, south, and east; the only approach being on the western face of the rock. It must have been a place of great ,strength, and was fortified from the earliest ages. Some part of the ancient walls still exist, but by far the larger portion are the irregular patchwork of the Venetians and Turks.

We entered through the Propylcea, of which little, save its columns (which are of the Doric order) remain; as we advanced through them,

 

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the facade of the Parthenon appeared: in all its beauty; it stands in the centre of the Acropolis, on its highest point, and quite realises the idea we form of the chaste perfec­tion of the Temple of Minerva. It consisted of a cell, (the only remains of which are the western front,) surrounded by a peristyle, which had eight columns in the front, and seventeen in the sides; their height 34 feet, their diameter at the base, six feet two inches; they are fluted, of the Doric order, and deeply coloured by time. The length of this temple is 228 feet, its breadth 100. The columns in the two fronts are quite perfect, but many are missing from the sides. The greater portion of the freize which decorated it, is with us, that on the front of the Posticum, however, still retains its place. The Turkish mosque, which had been built in the centre of the temple, was removed about two years ago.

To the south-east of the Acropolis, are the magnificent ruins of the Olympeum, which, war

 

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the largest temple in Athens; they consist of sixteen Corinthian columns of Pentelic marble, six and a half feet in diameter, and above, sixty in height, fluted, and none of whose capitals are quite perfect. Time has adorned them with splendid colours, resembling rather the lovely and variegated tints more generally found in soft sand-stone, than in the material of which they are composed. They stand on an elevated platform, supported by a strong wall, and are the only remains of this gorgeous and stupen­dous structure, which once numbered in its peristyle, one hundered and twenty columns. This temple was founded by Pisistratus, anal finished by the Emperor Adrian, when the chryselephantine Jupiter of Phidias (similar to his colossal Minerva in the Parthenon) was en­throned there. With the exception of the six­teen columns, not a single block of marble now remains; and by what means such masses were; removed out of the country, (for they are not to be found in Attica,)

                                                                                                                       N5

 

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still remains a mystery. Little less surprising is it, that any other ruins than these should ever have been mistaken, (as those on the north of Acropolis have been,) for those of the temple of Jupiter. A mistransla­tion of a passage in Thucidides should not have been allowed to weigh against the very circum­stantial account given of it, both by him and Vitruvius, and with which the remains just described, alone correspond.

Between the Olympeum and the modern town, stands the arch of Adrian, a structure hardly worthy of the name it bears. The octagonal tower, erected by Andronicus Cyrr­hestes, called the "tower of the winds," stands at the foot of the Acropolis; the soil around it has, in the course of centuries, risen many feet above its original level; and this takes much from its elegant proportion. The roof still remains, and beneath the cornice, on each of the eight sides, are figures beautifully sculp­tured, each representing the attribute of

 

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the wind it faces; they are in an almost horizontal position, and quite float on the "wings of the wind;" below them are traced solar dials, and in the interior are the remains of a clepsydra, or water-clock, which was supplied by an aqueduct, whose ruins are still visible.

The Temple of Theseus can hardly be termed a ruin; the whole of its columns, thirty-four in number, as well as the walls of the cell, are quite perfect. The height of the columns is nineteen feet; their diameter at the base, three feet four inches; and the whole height from the base of the superstructure on which the colonnade stands, to the summit of the pediment, is only thirty-three and a half feet. The posticum is still adorned with its exquisite frieze, representing one of the famous exploits of the hero to whom this temple was raised­--the combat of the Centaurs and Lapithae; while that on the eastern front of the portico depicts ten of the labours of Hercules. The interior was decorated with paintings of the combat of

 

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the Centaurs and Lapithae. It was built over the bones of Theseus, when they were brought from the island, of Scyros, by Cimon the son of Miltiades; consequently is, with, the exception of the Olympeum, the most ancient in Athens. The marble columns are fluted, of the Doric order, and beautifully coloured by time.

The small circular building, commonly called the “Lantern of Demosthenes," is a perfect specimen of architectural beauty; nothing cars be more incorrect, however, than to attribute it to the sage whose name it bears. Several persons are named in the inscription round it, and it was erected as a monument of the victory gained by them in one of the games. It con­sists of a frieze cornice and cupola, supported by six elegant fluted columns, whose capitals, composed of flowers and acanthus-like leaves, are of an astonishing delicacy of finish. The outside of the cupola is sculptured to represent laurel leaves laid partly over each other, those at the centre being small, but each successive

 

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row increasing in size as they radiate from it. From the middle of this singular roof (which consists of one piece only), springs up a most beautiful foliated ornament, fit companion to the capitals of the pillars.

But the crowning beauty is the frieze, which exhibits, in an eminent degree, the perfection of form and design, and the careful execution, so distinguishing of the best days of Grecian art. The story is from the life of Bacchus--his transformation of the pirates into dolphins, and the masts and the oars of their trireme into serpents. All is in a high state of preserva­tion, perhaps partly owing to the protection afforded by the wretched modern houses by which it is surrounded.

To the east of the Acropolis, on the southern bank of the Ilissus, is the Stadium, which is beautifully formed; its length is six hundred and thirty feet; its sloping sides are covered with grass, and not a single piece of its marble seats remains.

 

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The theatre of Herodias Atticus is a very fine ruin; its seats are hewn out of the rock; the scene was built of brick, and is in a tolerable state of preservation.

Of the grand theatre of Bacchus but little remains; the scene and walls are levelled with the ground, but traces remain on the rock of several seats, which extend to an immense dis­tance. From Plato's account, it would appear that it held more than thirty thousand people, and was one of the most splendid theatres ex­isting in his time.

To the west of, and a few hundred paces from the Acropolis, is the Pynx. The back part of the area is upheld by a massive wall, and con­tains more than 12,000 square yards; so that here, with little trouble, was formed a place of meeting large enough to hold the entire population of Athens. The bema, or platform from which the orators addressed them, is hewn out of the rock, and stands ten or twelve feet above the area, from which steps lead up to it; it commands a view of the mountains of

 

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Salamis, the, Pentelic, and other ranges which enclose the plain: the Piraeus, the Temple of Theseus, and the Acropolis, which last is, I think, seen to greater advantage hence, than from any other point.

If Manlius was not allowed to plead for him­self, in sight of the capitol, from the conviction that an appeal to the scene which had been there enacted, would not have been made in vain to the comparatively stern Romans, what an irresistible controul may not the orators, who addressed the Athenians here, have had over their excitable hearers, with so many witnesses of the deeds of their ancestors on the right hand and on the left, by which to arouse them to the like--by which to stir the heights and depths of human passions!

Within a few yards of the north-west angle of the Acropolis, is a spot little less interesting than the last mentioned; the Areopagus, or Hill of Mars. A flight of fifteen

 

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steps, cut out of the rock, leads to the platform, where the Areopagites sat in judgment, and from which Saint Paul preached. There are traces of the chisel (and in many places a few steps,) almost all over this low hill, which runs due west to a considerable distance. On another, to the west of the Areopagus, an observatory has been erected, and at its foot is the smooth stone down which the Grecian dames used to slide.

To the south-west of the Acropolis is the high hill, called Musaeum, on the summit of which is the monument of Philosappus, rather a picturesque ruin.

The portico of the Agora, or market-place, has four fluted Doric columns, supporting a pediment; on a marble slab, inside, Adrian's market-tariff remains, and the upper part is still legible.

16 th. At 5 A.M. we started for the summit of Mount Lycabettus, which we gained in two hours. The view hence is very fine; the sea has the appearance of a large

 

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lake enclosed by the noble mountains of Salamis; and hence Athens, and the mountains near it look beauti­ful. From this elevation may be seen the Acrocorinthus, or the rock and citadel of the same name which rises above Corinth, though it is distant more than forty miles. We found the sun so powerful, even at 7 A.M., that we were glad to return to our hotel; indeed, during our stay the heat was, with scarcely any excep­tion, too great to allow of any going out while the sun was up.

From whatever side we look on Athens, the still polished and glittering columns of the Parthenon crown the picture, standing as they do, the deep blue of heaven is alone seen beyond them when viewed from any part of the plain: but from all the elevated points the scene towards the west, shortly after sunset, is magnificent; and at that hour my steps were often turned to the Acropolis, there to gaze again and again on the temple which has no rival, and to muse on the probable or possible

 

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causes of the perfection which the Greeks attained in the arts.

It has been said, that " the master secret of the supremacy of the Greeks in sculp­ture lay in the mythic character of the beings represented.” There was nothing of actual nature about them--nothing of the fluctuating and transitory self which constitutes the in­dividuality of the actual man--all was change­less and immortal--fresh with the dews of perennial youth.

" The glorious shapes of the Greek mythology were absolute ideas; humanized and transfixed they stand before us like so many living thoughts seized and smitten as by a lightning-stroke into a visible revelation."--Athaneum 1843.

With all this I entirely agree; but a perfect conception of the beautiful must have been reached ere this resulted. Human beauty cannot at once be comprehended, still less re­vealed in marble; and that a full appreciation of the loveliness of nature was necessary before

 

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the Greeks could from her most perfect works, select parts which in combination should visibly embody the attributes of Deity, must be ad­mitted. A sufficient reason why they alone should have conceived the perfection of loveli­ness will perhaps always be to be sought; but once imagined by them, two causes seem to me above all others to have conduced to its execution.

The recognised existence of deities, to whose imagined decrees their votaries cheerfully sacri­ficed their dearest interests, demanded, they believed, the first and best fruits of their own good gifts, and their sculptors eagerly sought, through created nature, those types and forms that might most truly and worthily image forth the ideal beings sought to be represented.

They wrought then with enthusiastic devotion; and when the multitude of gods and demi-gods acknowledged by Greece, and the fact, that all her numerous temples possessed visible representatives of them is considered, is

 

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it surprising that with such moving causes, the mute marble should have been transformed into immortal shapes of beauty?

A second reason may be found in the circum­stance that among the Athenians the intel­lectually-gifted held their fitting, honoured station. Their artists, like their heroes, were stimulated by the desire, not of gain but glory. Their aspirations for the beautiful were not de­pressed, and its manifestation circumscribed by the stern necessity of toiling for daily bread, and struggling for social position; for these sons of genius were a public care, and regarded as public treasures. The people who murmured at Phidias, when he only hinted at the employ­ment of materials less costly than the costliest for the Minerva for the Parthenon, were not likely to fail in doing honour to all who should aid them in the erection or decoration of tem­ples for the worship of those gods they so highly reverenced.

 

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A secondary reason of their being well acquainted with the actual form and capabilities of the human figure, may be found in the facilities for its study afforded in the games, and by some other social institutions.

It will be remembered, that I am not attempt­ing to account for the Greeks alone, of all the ancient nations, having understood the beautiful: this is an enquiry, which I incline to believe will always remain unanswered; but, I think the two points on which I have enlarged, ac­count, in a great measure; for their having exclusively reached perfection. The brute deities of the Egyptians could not have been represented under lovely forms; the most elegant mythologi­cal fables among the Romans, and the fairest forms in their Pantheon, were veritably Greek; and the best sculpture executed in Rome, was by the hands of those, who, when her power had annihilated Greece, and her generals had brought thence statues by thousands, sought occupation with the conquerors.

There is a fine promenade to the north of

 

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Modern Athens, where a military band performs on Thursdays; there are one or two good streets, and several cafes well supplied with ices. A. great many of the inhabitants wear the tunic, and several of the officers are magnificently dressed, but are as vain as peacocks; it was quite ridiculous to see them strutting about and admiring themselves. The men are certainly better-looking than the women; I saw but few of the latter that had claims to admiration. I met only three during my stay who were in costume; they were fine women, and their figures were shown to great advantage by their graceful dress. The Queen, who is rather pretty, does not wear the Greek dress; the King always appears in the costume of the country.

The houses in the town are neatly built of stone; carts are little used, almost everything being carried on horses and donkeys, which are very numerous. The corn is all dressed in the open air; there was an immense quantity on the floor of the Olympeum.

 

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26th. Our last evening in Athens; we took a last fond look of her treasures, and at 6 P.M., on the 27th, left the Piraeus; a beautiful even­ing; we passed close to Cape Matapan, and in the evening of the 28th steamed into the splen­did Bay of Navarino, one of the finest natural harbours in the world, large enough for all the fleets of Europe to swing in; it is shut in by two large islands; the town is a poor place.

We had a delightful passage to Patras, the ancient Patrae, at the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth. 29th. Passed Missolonghi, a mise­rable place, and considered very unhealthy. Arrived at Corfu on the 30th; at Ancona, 2nd of August; having passed the previous night in a miserable boat, (whose decks the tremendous sea washed from stem to stern), and landed in England on the 15th of the following month.