IN THE EAST.
69
CHAPTER VI.
The population of Egypt is two and a hall
millions; that of Cairo, two hundred and forty thousand; of whom one hundred
and ninety thousand are Mahometans.
Egypt contains two millions of acres,
watered by the Nile; irrigation is carried on to a great extent by manual
labour, as might be supposed, a slow and fatiguing proceeding; for the fellahs
actually dip from the river the quantity of water necessary to supply their
fields; but in the Island of Rhoda--the Pasha's gardens-the wheel is used; and
no doubt as
70 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
civilization
advances, it will be more extensively adopted, and displace the method above described,
which we saw almost universally followed on the Nile, and which the extreme
cheapness of labour doubtless tends (with other causes) to perpetuate.
The fellahs are very fine men; with not
very dark complexions, not unlike the colour of the soil, which is a
rich-looking yellow sandy loam; but they are a broken-spirited race.
We occasionally had to see that the
boatmen did their duty, and sometimes were under the necessity of enforcing it,
but on the whole they are handy and very willing, and severely handled as they
(like most Egyptians) are, all their lives, not only appreciate good treatment,
but repay it by often anticipating the wishes of their master. The travellers
making the voyage up the Nile, should take none but boatmen who belong to Lower
Egypt; for Nubians, and those from Upper Egypt will decamp as soon as they get
to the south.
IN THE EAST.
71
The boat should be as light as
possible, the navigation being very difficult, owing (as has been before
stated) to the sand-banks, which shift every season. It is necessary to have
plenty of ballast, which you can throw overboard when firmly fixed, and by
that means often avoid detention. Have her painted, but do not allow the men to
sink her, (as they are fond of proposing) to drown the rats, for the effluvia
arising from these, when dead, renders them much more disagreeable companions
than when living, I have already suggested that the crew should not add to the
quantity of vermin with which the voyager will find his boat furnished, by
hauling her alongside others, which may be even more liberally supplied.
It is necessary to comfort, that the
doors and windows of the cabin should fit and shut up closely, for the winds
are sometimes exceedingly cold, and the air often loaded with sand.
The provisions necessary are good
Lataika tobacco (the best is only to be bought at Cairo)
72 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
sugar,
coffee, rice, potatoes, hams, porter; maccaroni, coarse tobacco for the
boatmen, and a small quantity of wine and spirits; the country affords bread,
(which is much better in Upper than in Lower Egypt,) butter, milk; eggs forty
for a piastre, sheep from eighteen to twenty-five piastres each, fowls from one
and a half to three piastres, Lataika tobacco eighteen piastres an oka, (2 1/2
English pounds,) but with the exception of the last, these are considered high
prices, and only paid by Khawaja EngIise. Dates are abundant, and pigeon's are
to be had for only the trouble of shooting them.
Dress--Two suits; one very light, the
other very warm, (he who travels in the frank dregs is always the most
respected,) shooting-coats, very loose trowsers, plenty of linen, Turkish
slippers; black boots are unbearable, but I wore the light morocco ones made in
the country with slippers over them; which latter were put off when I sat in
the divan,) a good warm cloak is indispensable; the head must be shaved, the
IN THE EAST. 73
tarbouch
worn, and a large turban be ready to wind round it when the wearer is exposed
to the sun; a large silk sash round the loins completes the list of apparel;
but a telescope, thermometer, gun, pistols, and sword, must not be forgotten;
an Arab will form his estimate of you by your arms, of which they are great admirers;
the handsomest present you can have being a sword, or a brace of percussion
pistols.
The contract must be signed by the
parties before the consul, when the reis will affix his stamp on which is his
name; should time be an object, the best way is to agree for the trip, if this
is not a consideration, by the month.
If the party be numerous, a cook must
be included in the crew, for your dragoman ought always to be with you;
however, for two he can manage very well.
The best time to start for Upper Egypt
is the end of October or beginning of November, when the north winds prevail; should
the wind be favourable, stop to see nothing on the way up.
74
DAYS AND NIGHTS
The distance from Cairo to Thebes and
back is seven hundred and ninety-seven miles; the voyage occupied us exactly
five weeks.
Two of our party on the Nile (the Count
and V--) having decided on proceeding direct from Cairo to Jerusalem, A.H., and
myself, rode a few miles with them on the afternoon of the 5th of March, and
after taking leave, agreed with a Sheik, to start on the ninth, for the spot
which of all others I most wished to behold--Petra. I was so anxious to
commence the journey that the interval seemed very tedious; the more so as we
had some wet days, but these are rare.
On the first fine morning, H. and I
mounted camels for the first time in our lives, and rode to Shooborough, where
the Pasha principally resides; it is three or four miles down the river, a fine
avenue runs the whole distance, and it is the most delightful ride near Cairo.
The gardens are beautiful; containing,
in addition to the native trees; many varieties
IN THE EAST.
75
(lately
introduced) of those of Europe, many elegant kiosks raise their light forms
among them, and the addition of water completes the perfection of this charming
retreat.
We saw the Pasha taking his tiffin,
seated at a small table in the European style; he is a fiery fine looking man,
and has a splendid beard. I saw him pass through Cairo after this; he was in a
magnificent European carriage, followed by four attendants on camels, and a
few horsemen. It is said; that he rarely passes through the city without
causing the death of one or two of the inhabitants; but this I think must be as
false as many other misdeeds charged upon him, for he was moving at a very slow
pace: he halted for several minutes opposite where I stood.
We are all very busy to-day, making
preparations for our long journey, to which I looked forward with no little
pleasure and impatience; we shall muster nine, and three will follow us in a
day or two.
76
DAYS AND
NIGHTS
At length the ninth arrived, and our
baggage camels made their appearance; but it was late before their burden was
completed, and they left town. A-- and I rode out to the camp together: they
had fixed on a place about three miles from Cairo, and we arrived before our
tent was pitched: but this was soon accomplished, and I slept for the first
time under canvas. We did not move any further next day; some of our party not
having completed their purchases in Cairo; wind rather high, and cold night.
IN THE EAST.
77
CHAPTER VII.
Cold morning, wind high; rose early,
and about half past eight struck our tents, and commenced our journey. We
mustered nine, having four tents, forty full-sized camels, fourteen young
ones, seven servants, and a host of Arabs, forming altogether, rather a
numerous caravan. I was delighted at its picturesque appearance, as it set out
headed by the Sheik; and not a little amused at the various costumes displayed
by my European fellow-travellers, who had severally equipped themselves in the
manner which each thought most likely to enhance his comfort. Whether this
consideration
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AND NIGHTS
influenced
one of their number, Mr. B--, a native of Scotland, who had made no change in his
style of attire since leaving that country, I cannot take upon myself to say.
We passed two of Hill's stations today,
and pitched our tents at 5 P.M.; very fine night.
Started a little earlier this morning,
and after riding a short distance, left our camels, and went in search of
partridges; we saw numbers, and killed a few brace. I brought one fellow down,
as he was passing over my head, to the treat delight of the Arabs.
The wind next day very cold and high;
arrived at the last station about 4 P.M., and soon after pitched our tents, The
road is excellent, except between the two middle stations, where it is covered
with large loose stones. The stations are very comfortable; we halted at all of
them, (there are eight between Cairo and Suez) and sent our baggage on, so that
we enjoyed an hour's repose without losing time; (for it will be understood
that the camels hearing the
IN THE EAST. 79
tents
and their furniture, proceed somewhat in advance, and their conductors select a
spot for encamping.) Near the middle station is a fine old thorn, covered with
rags, tied on by the pilgrims on their return from Mecca; and I observed two or
three others on the way, similarly ornamented.
I did not find the motion of my camel
so disagreeable and distressing as I expected; and the shaking it produced caused
me to sleep soundly. Our tent was hardly large enough, and we could not quite
close it at night.
14th. Started at the usual hour; I felt
my seat uncomfortable, and in the hope of improving it, called to my camel,
who answered with a well-trained alacrity for which I was by no means prepared,
for he dropped on his knees, (and my saddle coming forward,) sent me sprawling
over his head among the stones. I escaped with only a few bruises, but it was a
warning to me ever after to look to my girths. About half an hour's march
brought us in
80
DAYS AND NIGHTS
sight
of the Red Sea; shortly after, our baggage-camels struck off to the left, to
go round the head of the gulf, and we rode forward to Suez, where we arrived at
11 A.M.: it is a very miserable place. At 4 P.M., we crossed in a small boat to
the opposite shore, and for the first time I set foot in Asia. The African
mountains looked magnificent, and even the miserable town appeared well from
the shore we enjoyed the scene for an hour or so, until our camels arrived; we
found the country very rough and uneven, but they carried us in safety, and we
reached our camp at 7 P.M.
Our tents were pitched near the wells
of Moses, and filthy pools they are. A few miserable palms are near, around
which the Arabs endeavour, almost in vain, to cultivate some small patches of
ground. Our track the next day lay through an immense plain, bounded on the
left by low mountains, and on the right by the Red Sea, and the splendid range
on the African shore, in which I noticed two, very
IN THE EAST. 81
wide
openings: the first, I should think about a mile and a half or two miles from
the head of the gulf: the second is about half a mile more distant; and I have
no doubt that it was through one of these that Moses led the chosen people, and
from this point our path lay through scenes which are associated in holy writ,
with their forty years' wandering:--and first, the fountain of Marah; it is on
a hill a few feet only above the level of the plain, and near it grow two fine
palms. Bitter, indeed are its waters; nevertheless, a donkey belonging to one
of our men drank freely, but our camels would not touch them.
We waited here till our caravan came
up, and only marched a mile or two beyond. Our sheik, Hassan, found out a
delightful spot tier our camp in a small shady ravine; and Ishmael (who
replaced Agassi at Cairo as my dragoman) served a capital dinner,--game, soup,
boiled mutton, plum pudding, porter and coffee; but we rarely fared so well,
and before I left the
E5
82
DAYS
AND NIGHTS
desert,
I was weary enough of pilaw, pilaw, pilaw, every day, with nothing else. We had
not seen a single partridge since we left Suez; but there were plenty of hares.
A very nice looking dog joined
(uninvited) our party at Cairo, and still kept us company; in the day-time he
was to be seen running in the shade of a camel, or waiting under a shrub to
join the rear-guard. While the tents were being pitched, he would throw himself
on the sand, but was always ready, after we had washed, for the water, which he
thought none the worse for the addition of a little soap. His appearance
improved wonderfully in consequence of the regular visits he paid our dinner
tables; he had no doubt journeyed in the desert before.
17th. Started at 8 A.M., We had now entered the wilderness of Sinai,
and a few hours' march brought us to the fountain of Elim, which has two small
springs, but our camels managed to get enough water. In sight of this
IN
THE EAST.
83
spot
we counted threescore and ten palms, many of them fine trees, and under their
refreshing shade we enjoyed our tiffin. Having ended our light meal, we held a
council to determine the road we should take, and the majority was for the
longest, through Wady Feiran: we marched on through narrow passes, and encamped
in a very nice spot, the dry bed of a torrent, called Wady Taebe.
I placed a white cap on a shrub, and
made one of our Arabs fire at it with his matchlock, which he rested on a bush,
to take aim; they have no idea of standing up for that purpose as we do. He
succeeded, however, in hitting the mark.
The next day we continued our journey
through the Wady, for half an hour or so, entirely shut in by high mountains,
when a sudden turn brought us in sight of the Red Sea; and we marched for the
greater part of the clay along its shore: the mountains obliged us, in places
to ride through the waters, which my camel did not at all relish.
84
DAYS AND NIGHTS
I and another of our party entered a
very wide plain, and turned to the left to visit a pool of fresh water; we
rejoined our caravan as it was about to enter a very narrow pass, which led us
into a perfect wilderness, but one more beautiful I never saw. The bright blue,
purple, grey, yellow, slate, and sandstone tints, contrasted with the
beautiful black granite and porphyry mountains, gave an indescribable effect to
the scene: the granites in this wilderness are finer than any others I had
observed we encamped on very high ground; high wind, very warm.
Soon after striking our tents the next
morning, we crossed a mountain by a zig-zag path, and descended by a very
narrow one cut out of the rock; the scenery was grand; the red granite
mountains rose nearly perpendicular to a great height on every side, leaving in
places only just space enough for two camels to pass. Our track continued
through the dry bed of a torrent, in some places only a few yards in breadth,
IN
THE EAST.
85
in
others a quarter of a mile. I was in advance with two of our party at the usual
time for halting, but we were obliged to retrace our steps, they having pitched
our camp in the vicinity of a basin of water at some distance behind in the
mountain; we were, however, paid for our extra exertions by finding dinner ready
on our return. We were at the mouth of Wady Feiran, surrounded by mountains
from 1000 to 1500 feet high, at whose base our tents looked like specks: they
were pitched as usual, fifteen or twenty yards from each other, and the camels
arranged in a semi-circle, in the centre of which the Arabs bivouacked. I
strolled out of my tent at night, and the scene whose prominent features I
have here sketched, was shewn to the greatest advantage by the full moon's
light; it was one of perfect, still, and solemn beauty, and alone and in
silence, I remained looking on it for hours.
At this time of the year there is
always plenty of water in the natural basins in the mountains,
86
DAYS AND NIGHTS
which
are known to the Arabs: we did not suffer much from the heat, except in the
very narrow passes; there was generally a refreshing breeze. Skins keep the
water very cool, but ours were unfortunately bad ones, and rendered our water
scarcely drinkable. I found cold tea the best beverage; and from the second day
of my entering the desert, always carried a bottle. We all enjoyed excellent
health.
IN THE EAST.
87
CHAPTER VIII.
20th. At 11 A.M. we arrived at Wady
Feiran, and a refreshing sight it was to gaze on its verdure, after the sterile
track through which we had passed. This valley is very narrow, and about five
miles in length; it is entirely filled with palms, with an occasional
sprinkling of cider trees, which bear a fruit resembling haws, only larger.
Here and there were a few patches of corn, walled round with loose stones, and
their owners dwelt in small houses built of the same material. A stream of
sweet water completes the beauty of this oasis; the only one
88
DAYS AND NIGHTS
I believe in the wilderness of Sinai. We
saw a few sheep, and plenty of goats; our party bought a fine kid for five
piastres. Our sheiks were dressed on this occasion in their scarlet robes,
whose amplitude gave dignity to their flue figures.
We continued our route, and encamped
within a mile or two of Mount Serbal, which we left on our right. Sent our
baggage on the following morning by the usual track, and took a shorter one, by
a very rough pass, through which we were obliged to walk, leaving our camels to
follow.
We reached the convent at which we intended
to pass the night, at about 4 P.M. We found one of our company waiting there,
for none of the monks could speak French or English, and as he produced no
letter, they would not let him in; but off
our arrival, and a few explanatory words in Italian, the rope was instantly
lowered, and in a minute or so, I found myself on a level with the
IN THE EAST.
89
door,
(which is about twenty-five feet above the ground) where the monks were stationed
to pull me in. In this manner we all reached the interior of the convent, where
we were received by the Superior, a fine looking middle-aged man, with a
splendid white beard. He took his stand near the door, and after they had
raised the little baggage we had with us, led the way to our apartments, which
we found very comfortable; four of them were large, and fitted-up with divans,
and one had a table and chairs; our dinner was but a scanty meal, owing to the
absence of our baggage, which did not arrive till late in the evening, and the
good superior would not supply us with anything but bread; lie told us they
never touched meat, and I doubt not would have added, arrack, had lie not seen
a smile on all our faces. In the evening all our baggage was hoisted into the
convent, but the monks would not allow even our shiek to enter.
The next day we did not go beyond the
walls,
9O
DAYS AND NIGHTS
but
the Superior shewed us over all within them: the convent resembles a fortified
village, the walls being at least forty feet in height; the church is rather
large and handsome, and attached to it is a small chapel, built, they say, over
the spot where the burning bush appeared to Moses; they would not allow us to
enter without uncovering our feet. The store-rooms are dark and very dirty; a
covered gallery runs all round the massive wall; there is a well of excellent
water in the court-yard, and plenty of arrack in the cellars. The library is
very poor, but I observed a beautiful bible enclosed in a massive silver cover.
The convent garden is a delightful retreat, also surrounded by very high walls;
it contains a great many cypress, orange, almond, crab and prickly pear-trees,
vines and olives; it is kept in very excellent order; the approach to it from
the convent is by a very long subterranean passage, in which are several
massive iron doors.
The following morning we started at an
early
IN THE EAST.
91
hour
for the summit of Mount Sinai, descending from the garden wall by a rope; we
reached a beautiful spring in about twenty minutes, and were tempted to halt a
little while near it; our next resting-place was the chapel of the Virgin; in a
few minutes thence we reached a large open space, in the centre of which is a
lone and lovely cypress, and the grotto and wells of Elias; from the spring
above-mentioned, to this place, the ascent, though very steep, is not difficult,
there being steps cut in the rock all the way; in some places this singular
staircase is very narrow, and near the open space an arch is thrown over it.
We had nearly reached the summit, when
our attention was drawn by our guide to the print of a camel's foot on the
rock; there is a tradition among the Arabs that Mahomed rode to the top of the
mountain on one of these animals, and they consider this foot-print an indubitable
evidence of the fact.
After a fatiguing journey of two hours
we
92
DAYS AND NIGHTS
arrived
at Mount Sinai, the highest of the many peaks of Mount Horeb. The barren
mountains of the south-west of Scotland, or the beautiful ones of Switzerland,
even in its wildest districts, sink into tame insignificance when compared with
the wide, wild desolate scene here witnessed--fitting spot for one of the most
awful events that the world ever saw; when Israel's thronging thousands stood
around ! while “Moses drew near unto
the thick darkness where GOD was."
The limits of the mountain are well
defined; on one side rises the lofty Mount St. Catherine, which is much higher
than Sinai, and on the other is the valley of Rephidim. The Red Sea is not
visible. This holy ground is desecrated by two miserable hovels, in a ruined
state, and which I longed to pull down.
On our return we remained some time at
the convent, at the foot of Mount Horeb, and enjoyed a meal provided by the
monks, of bread, dates and coffee, with the addition of a
IN THE LAST. 93
bottle
of wine from our own store. We found the descent very fatiguing, and the wind so
very cold, that we were glad to turn steps towards our own convent, (pro. tem.)
which we entered as we had left it, by the garden-wall, and we did justice to
the capital dinner, which (thanks to our own cooks) awaited us; for the selfish
Superior provided only bread.
The next was an idle day for me; but
two of our party undertook an expedition to Mount Saint Catherine; they
returned very weary, and reported having seen the Red Sea from its summit.
The next day our servants packed up; at
11 all was ready for starting; and after dangling for a minute, we found
ourselves once more in the desert.
Our Arabs were glad to see us. Old
Hassan came up, saying he had a fresh camel for me, which I found much easier
than the one I had ridden before. The motion of the camel is not disagreeable,
for you enjoy an advantage on them
94
DAYS AND NIGHTS
which
you could not on any other animal: you can sit as you like, and moreover, alter
your seat when fatigued; and when the slow pace at which travellers are obliged
to proceed, and the number of hours together they remain on the animal's back
are considered, this means of relief will be appreciated.
Before we left the convent, Sheik
Touleb arrived from Akaba; lie was the bearer of a letter from the party of
English who were in advance, which we opened, and were not at all pleased at
its contents. They complained of the treatment they had received from the Governor
of Akaba, who detained them at that place six days.
Our party appeared in gay colours on
leaving the convent; for, besides our own two sheiks, we were joined by the
bearer of the letter and his brother; and all four were arrayed in their
scarlet robes, and scarlet and gold head-dresses. I did not think the expression
of Touleb's countenance at all pre-
IN THE EAST.
95
possessing;
he only rode a mile or two with us.
At 5 P.M. we pitched out six tents in a
narrow valley, surrounded by very high mountains; another lovely moonlight
night made this a scene to look on and remember forever.
This day's march (the 26th) was through
an uninterrupted wilderness, exceedingly dreary. For the first time we saw some
Bedouins' tents; they are very simple--four poles driven into the ground (the
two back ones being much shorter than the others) are connected by four
rafters; forming a frame-work, over which is thrown one large piece of coarse
black stuff, made principally of camel-hair, which reaches to the ground at the
back, leaving the front open. Old Hassen told us, that all the encampments of
the Bedouins were high in the mountains, which circumstance accounts for our
seeing only a few of their tents during our journey.
All the Arabs are well armed with long
matchlocks and swords; even the boys carry
96 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
the
latter weapon at their sides: the men are small, but well made, and excellent
walkers: Our dog left us last night; we were sorry to lose him, but even our
good treatment could not induce him to pass his home.
27th. We passed through a very singular
country this day; the ravines and crevices in the mountains were filled with
beautiful white sand, from which, in spite of the protection afforded by a
thick veil, my eyes suffered very much. I was riding in advance of our party,
when our sheik hailed me; he was climbing up a steep cleft in the mountain, and
beckoned me to follow, saying, there was good water. I accordingly dismounted,
and drove my camel before me up the dangerous track, but he was well rewarded
for his trouble; although they can go a long time without water, I never knew
them pass any without imbibing an extraordinary quantity.
The heat was very great, and we all
threw ourselves on the sand to enjoy pipes and
IN THE EAST.
97
coffee,
and a little rest, sending our baggage on.
On reaching our encampment, I found
most romantic spot had been selected; the heat at night was dreadful in our
tent, the thermometer standing at 84°; the dread khamseen
was the cause, and I suffered greatly, and slept but little.
In the morning the wind was very high,
the sand flying in all directions. An hour's march brought us to the narrow and
beautiful pass of Wady Ine, the bed of a torrent, in places only twenty yards in width, the mountains rising
on either side to the height of from 1000 to 1500 feet. We found but a small
stream running through the valley, but there was abundant evidence that at
times great bodies of water pass through it; an immense quantity of rushes and
shrubs filled the torrent's bed, through which we passed with great difficulty;
which, however, was amply compensated by the exceeding beauty of the scenes;
for stately palms
98 DAYS AND NIGHTS
rose
in lovely groups, and their leafy crowns, contrasted gloriously with the barren
and rugged mountains which sheltered the narrow valley. The Arabs filled our
water-skins, and to my surprise, my camel took in a great supply. The narrow
pass extends for a quarter of a mile, when it gradually widens towards the sea;
we were three hours reaching the outlet; and were all nearly blown from our
saddles on entering the plain near the sea, whose blue waters were hidden from
our view by clouds of sand which darkened the sky. The khamseen was blowing
furiously, and we took shelter (or rather sought it) in a small ravine where we
took our coffee filled with sand, so that our tiffin was anything but
refreshing. The wind was at our backs; had it been otherwise, we must have
halted, for our camels could not have faced it. As we proceeded, we found our
veils almost useless, for we literally breathed the sand, for about two hours I
felt it beating against me like hard rain; the atmosphere was not more.
IN THE EAST.
99
transparent
than that of London in a dense fog. We were all muffled up, and our camels followed
the baggage without our guidance; the wind was very hot indeed, but at sunset
it fell, and we rode along the shore of the Red Sea, picking up shells and
pieces of coral; we thought to refresh ourselves after our fatiguing day's
journey by taking a bath; but unfortunately went in at a bad place for the
purpose, on coral rocks, over which the breakers ran high. At 10 P.M. was beautifully
calm, and our tent was pitched a few feet only from the sea, whose waves lulled
us to sleep.
In the morning I rose early, and ran
from my bed into the sea, and enjoyed a delightful bath, though I found the
water somewhat cold; the khamseen again blew, and though not with such violence
as on the preceding day, the air was darkened with clouds of sand, and we were
nearly smothered in a ravine in which we lost our coffee.
Between 1and 2 P.M. it cleared up,
100 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
then
had a view of the mountains on the opposite shore; we encamped in a small plain
close to a pretty little bay shut in by high mountains; the large tent was
nearly carried away by the wind, and we were all laughing at the confusion of
its inmates, when our own was completely blown over, just as Ishmael was on his
way to it with the soup; but Old Hassen and his men soon raised the fallen
canvas, and secured it by a rope passed over the top of the pole.
A fisherman joined our caravan
yesterday he wished to reach Akaba, and said, if we would allow him to keep us
company, he would fish for us by the way; it was quite a treat to see him creep
along the shore, and cast his circular net, for his attitudes were exceedingly
graceful. In three casts he took eighty-four fish, weighing from a quarter of a
pound to a pound each, resembling our English perch; they were very delicious.
Not quite so hot; very stormy night; our tent was several times
IN THE EAST.
101
nearly
blown over: we had one refreshing shower.
The next morning was consequently
cooler, and some of our party started on foot to walk round the horn of the
bay, but I preferred the back of my camel; we crossed a range of mountains by a
rather dangerous zig-zag track; I was in advance, and turned often to admire
the picturesque appearance of our caravan. which, on account of the narrowness
of the path, was drawn out to a considerable extent, and shewn to the greatest
advantage as its long line wound round the rugged path. An hour's march brought
us once more to the seashore, where we were joined by the pedestrians; we all
took our tiffin under a few palm trees, opposite the island of Graia; the only
one in the Gulf of Akaba, and on which are the ruins of a fortress.
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
CHAPTER IX.
The palms of Akaba were in sight; a
tedious march round the head of the gulf followed, and at 4P.M. we arrived at
the fortress, above which the greet caravan of pilgrims from Mecca was
encamped; but as we had no wish to join them, or the Governor, we passed the
fortress, and pitched our own tents a short distance beyond it, close to the
sea.
Soon after the Governor paid us a
visit; we told him it was our intention to visit Petra, and wished him to send immediately
for the Sheik of the Alouins, which he agreed to do if we
IN THE EAST. 103
would
pay three hundred piastres, as he said the sheik was at least two days' journey
from Akaba. We informed him that the letter sent by the English party to the
English Consul had been opened and read by us; and that if he dared to detain
us, we would not only give him no present, but represent his conduct .to the
Pasha. In the evening he sent six guards, of whom we kept three, ordering them
to fire their pieces every hour; and in consequence enjoyed but little sleep.
Rather a cold night: 63° in our tent. The following morning after breakfast, we paid
a visit to the Bey commanding the Hadj; he received us very well, politely
inviting us to his mat, and coffee and pipes as usual were served. He was very
communicative; said he had been absent from Cairo four months, and that fifty
days had been spent in returning from Mecca he also stated that some of the
Alouin sheiks (whose services he did not require) were at that moment in Akaba,
a piece of information which
104
DAYS AND NIGHTS
interested
us more than he imagined, as we hoped to proceed on our journey two days sooner
in consequence.
The tent was very large, and great
quantities of goods were placed on each side, the space between covered with a
carpet. Two guards were at the door when we entered, but a picturesque crowd
made its appearance during our visit. The Bey had with him three troops of
irregular cavalry.
Our next visit was to the tent of a
wealthy merchant of Damietta, who invited us to his divan with great kindness,
and appeared exceedingly pleased; he was a most intelligent and happy-looking
fellow, and laughed and talked with a freedom quite foreign to the Mussulman
character; he smiled when we told him we were already tired of the slow rate of
traveling in the desert.
The little value the people of the East
set upon time surprises an European; not one of our men could give the least
idea of their age, and appeared
IN THE EAST.
105
quite
astonished when asked the question. Though our Damietta friend had been so mane
months in the desert, he seemed quite content with the life he was leading; he
had his harem with him, and a very large establishment; the ladies were
confined in three or four small tents attached to the large divan in which we
were seated. As we strolled through the camp we received invitations from a
great many to enter their tents, &c., which we were obliged to decline,
having spent too much time already in smoking and drinking coffee. It was
rather strange to see a party of Christian “ Dogs” marching through the camp of
bigoted Mussulmen, and meeting with smiles and courteous behaviour from all:
we were escorted over the en- campment by several Hadj, who pointed out
everything they thought remarkable; had the Pasha himself been of our number, I
do not think they could have shewn us more attention. So much toleration quite
delighted and surprised me.
106 DAYS AND NIGHTS
The panniers in which the ladies ride
are very comfortable; on the outside, they have latticed windows, and are quite
open on the inside, so that their occupants can see and converse with each
other freely; but the wives of the poor ride in very rough wooden frames, and
many a camel bears the weight of a whole .family. The Asiatic camels are much
larger than the African; in our stroll, we noticed some immense animals; they
pointed out one that had been eleven times to Mecca. The horses looked well,
and were in excellent condition.
This camp contained six thousand souls,
but I will not attempt to describe its singular appearance; tents, camels,
horses, their furniture, and the motley throng around, made up a scene better
imagined than accurately pictured. Groups innumerable, in rich and many
coloured garments were smoking and drinking coffee; others gathered round a
steed (of purer blood than those near him) lavishing their caresses on his glossy
neck; others busily
IN THE EAST.
107
engaged
in the care of the arms they all value so highly; and the poorer sort were
quite as fully occupied in the more homely duty of setting their domestic wares
in order, and many stretched in idle listlessness on the ground. Numerous as
this company was, the Bey informed us that a many went from Suez by sea.
On our return., I saw a poor camel
dying at a short distance from the camp; the poor creature was suffering
dreadfully from a wound in its side, the saddle having worn away the flesh to
the very bone; I drew a pistol from my belt; and was about to relieve it from
all pain, when Ishmael seized my arm, and entreated me not to kill it; their
owners never kill them, but when disabled, leave them to die where fall.
The next morning brought the little Governor
to our camp with two sheiks of the Alouins, named Salami and Abon Raschiede.
The former habited in a loose scarlet-striped robe, over which he wore a blue
cloth cloak, and a coarse
108 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
yellow
handkerchief on his head, secured by, a beautiful red Persian shawl; also red
morocco boots, evidently not made to fit, for he could with difficulty walk in
them. (We afterwards found these boots were only exhibited on state
occasions.) The only arms he carried,
were a sword and pistols. We all assembled in our big tent to treat with them;
the Governor and sheiks alone entered, but the entrance was crowded with their
men.
After the usual compliments, we
proceeded to business, by offering the usual sum (viz., two hundred and forty
piastres) for each camel, to which, to my astonishment, they immediately
agreed. We then informed them that we intended to remain three or four days in
Petra, and entered into other particulars to which they also agreed: but at
last the reason of this ready compliance came out; they wanted us to take
guards, or rather to pay the sum of nine thousand piastres. We positively
refused to take a single guard, or to pay a piastre more, and they left
IN THE EAST.
109
our
camp, but the-Governor remained; we told him we should take no guards, but that
it was our intention to make him a handsome present; the little rascal appeared
quite satisfied, having evidently gained his point.
The sheiks who bad conducted us from
Cairo were to leave us at Akaba; and their men and camels had proceeded on
their homeward track this morning. During our stay here, we were supplied with
bad bread and milk, and we purchased dates, sugar, sheep, and kids; but the
arrival of the Hadj had raised the price of everything.
Some of our party supped with the
Governor and sheiks, but returned without having settled the business in hand.
They found out that these Sheiks had never conducted travellers through their
country, but the Governor assured them they belonged to powerful tribes. We
were all tired of this uninteresting place, and longed to see the wonders
before us.
April 2nd. Early this morning the
Alouin
110
DAYS AND
NIGHTS
sheiks
paid us a visit; they still demanded the sum of nine thousand piastres, but at
last came down to five thousand; this we declared we would not give, but
offered half the sum besides the price of the camels; upon which they took
their leave, telling us that we might remain ten years before they would take
us for that sum.
About the middle of the day we heard
several shots fired from the other side of the Gulf, and in an hour or two
after, our friends M--, T--, and S--, who had agreed to join our caravan at
Akaba, arrived.
In the evening, Hassan took his
departure; he was as sorry to part with us, as we were to lose him; he took my
hand, and kissed me on both cheeks, taking his leave with great reluctance. We
made him a present of a pound of English gunpowder, which is much prized by the
Arabs; and he promised to deliver all our letters to the British Consul at
Cairo. He is a fine old fellow, very well made, standing
IN
THE EAST.
111
about
five feet ten; small, but piercing eyes, and a fine white beard. He could not
tell his age, but I should guess it at fifty-five. The appearance of the
Alouins we lead seen, suffered considerably when contrasted with that of the
faithful fellows who had escorted us thus far in the desert.
In the evening a council was held among
us, and we resolved to offer no more to the sheiks for twenty-four hours; we
were now twelve in number, and had nothing to fear but detention.
The shieks made their appearance at our
camp very early--a good sign I thought, for they were becoming impatient; as
soon as we were assembled, they offered to take us for four thousand piastres,
but we told them that we would return rather than pay so much; so they again
left us; this was a very hot day, the thermometer in our tent stood at 82°, and
in the sun 108°. In the evening, two of
our number went to the fort; and empowered by us, came to the terms last
offered by the sheiks—four
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
thousand
piastres; the newly arrived trio to pay in the same proportion. The contract
was signed by the Governor, the shieks Salami and Abon Raschiede, and by two
of our party. We were all glad the matter was concluded, and with the prospect
of so soon proceeding on our journey.
At eleven the next day our camels
arrived, and we all assembled in the big tent; the shieks were there too, and
we paid them the whole of the tribute--money, and half the hire of the camels, in
the Governor's presence; and the Arab chiefs counting the gold as our dragoman
placed it before them, and the Governor looking on with greedy eyes, formed a
group not easily forgotten.
This ceremony over, the signal was
given to load the camels, and a scene of indescribable confusion followed. The
animals were very wild indeed, and half of them were without halters; we soon
found, too, that instead of having an extra number of men who were to have
acted as guards, we had not half enough even to load
IN
THE EAST.
113
our
baggage, nor had they half enough cord to secure it. However, at 1 P.M. they
commenced operations: Ishmael selected a very powerful brute to carry our
kalpas* and tents, but he proved to be a very desperate animal ; and before the
men could secure the baggage on his back, he bolted through the camp,
overturning everything in his way; this was a signal for a general rush, and as
the camels gained their legs, away they went, full gallop, sending our
valuables in all directions; the Arabs followed, and our servants added to the
confusion by roaring after them: poor Ishmael looked bewildered, and said, he
was sure everything in the kalpas was smashed; and though I perfectly agreed
with his opinion, I could not help laughing, the scene was so ridiculous.
At 4 P.M. we started in anything but
good order from Akaba; we marched but an hour or two, and pitched our tents in
almost as much confusion as we had witnessed in the
*Containing
earthenware. &c.
114
DAYS AND
NIGHTS
morning,
but it had a contrary effect on me. I did not laugh this time; for I was
hungry, and knew well enough that I stood no chance of getting my dinner so
long as Ishmael and the cook were running about after the camels. However, in
course of time dinner appeared; and as soon as it was ended, Mustapha was
despatched to bring the sheik before us. We told him we would not proceed any
further unless he furnished more men and more ropes he promised everything, and
as we were in a position to enforce nothing, we were obliged to accept his
promises. High wind at night, and we were
covered with sand, but I slept soundly, nevertheless.
5th. We were up at an early hour; I
found great fault with my camel, who had several bad habits, and Salami brought
me his own, the best looking in the caravan; and he proved as good as his looks
led me to believe him. We started at 8 A.M. and marched at a good pace till 4,
when we pitched our tents in pretty
IN
THE EAST.
115
good
order, in the centre of Wady Araba, or Wady El Ghor, which is from three to
five miles in width; the whole valley is filled with low shrubs, on which our
camels fed. I was very much fatigued by the wind, which blew hard in our teeth
all day, and was loaded with sand; we were all glad to go to rest early.
An hour's march next morning brought us
to a pond of rain-water, at which we spent some time; our day's track was very
uninteresting, diversified only by the amusement of riding over the high ridges
of white sand which fill this uneven valley, and by the sight of a few hares,
very small ones. They gave our camels no corn, but they lived very well on the
shrubs.
Started early next day, passed a small
wady on our right, where the shiek told us there was water, but our skins being
quite full we did not halt. At half-past 2 P.M. we left the Wady El Ghor, which
here might be about six miles in width, and crossed over some low hills into
the " Land of Edom."
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
The first object of interest was an
isolated rock, called El Das’e, out of which (at the top) is hewn a small
square chamber; the view from it was very fine.
Our tents were pitched in a pleasant
spot, but the ever-recurring consciousness that I was really in that country,
which it had for years been my most anxious wish to visit, prevented me from
sleeping as soundly as usual.
IN THE EAST.
117
CHAPTER X.
8th. Struck our tents at the usual
time, and never did I leap into my saddle with greater pleasure than on this
morning. Petra was before us, and only a few hours distant; and I rode forward
delighted with the idea of so soon entering that extraordinary city, towards
which my thoughts had so long been directed.
The country was uneven, covered (to a
great extent at least) with shrubs and stunted trees, and intersected by
innumerable channels, formed by the torrents. An hour's march brought ins to a
very narrow defile, hardly wide enough in
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
places
to allow our baggage-camels to pass. The ascent soon became so steep, that we
were obliged to dismount and walk to the top of the first ridge of Mount Hor,
where we halted for half an hour. The scenery was wild and beautiful, and
never did camels and Arabs appear more picturesque than ours as they came
slowly up the winding rocky path; at this point they turned off to the left,
and we started in an opposite direction, up a difficult track which led us to
the top of the pass, where we threw ourselves on the ground; but I did not feel
the least fatigue, though the heat was very great. I am a bad walker in a level
country, but in the rugged mountain passes always quite at home. I have walked
over the highest mountains with ease, and with a lightness and buoyancy of
spirits I never experienced in a low level. No! six thousand feet above the
sea, is the altitude I enjoy.
We commenced our descent, which we
found difficult and tedious, on the edge of a deep ravine.
IN THE EAST. 119
We
suffered during the march for want of water; we had had only three small
bottles between us, (twelve in number,) since our caravan left us; and on rejoining
it at the base of Mount Hor, I rushed up to our water-camel, and before his
rider, Mahomed, could tumble from his elevated seat, tore open the mouth of the
water-skin, and imbibed the grateful liquid with indescribable satisfaction.
Mahomed evidently participated in my enjoyment, for he grinned in such a
manner, that, had it not been for his ears, I know not to what degree his mouth
might have extended.
After the above mentioned long and
strong pull at the water-skin, I felt quite refreshed and vigorous: in this
country water is life; and I am sure, that with the addition of rice, I could
live, if not called upon to perform exercise; for with the constant exertion of
walking, and camel-riding, I do not think, I consume, one-third as much as I
usually do when in Europe. After proceeding, a short distance, the track
120
DAYS AND NIGHTS
became
so very dangerous, that we dismounted, and walked, visiting, in our way, some
large excavations which were entirely without ornament, encumbered with briars
and rubbish, and full of lizards; thus on the threshold, reminding us of the
prophecies respecting the doomed city.
The descent from the base of Alount Hor
to Petra is considerable; we followed the course of the bed of a torrent, and
the first view it offered us of the situation of this “City of the Rock"
more than realized all imagination had pictured. I say, the situation; for of
Petra, as yet we saw only the excavations high in the western range; but all
around, and far as the eye could reach, gigantic piles of rock--rocks of the
wildest and most majestic form, and kindling with lovely tints; rocks, which
have been described as a "sea, and its waves petrified," and some of
which still shut in from our eyes, the desolate city: but after following die,
torrent's dry course for some distance further,
IN THE EAST.
121
we
turned to the right up a steep ascent, and passed an isolated column near which
were heaps of ruins, and from this spot we had a view of the open space, on
which the greater part of the city stood; and hence we beheld the splendid
monuments sculptured in the eastern range--a sight it was that might well
arrest the traveller's steps, and absorb his every faculty, the power alone
excepted, of gazing, awe-stricken, on the most " singular spectacle which
the magnificent creations of nature, and the vain ambition of men have"
united to " bequeath to the curiosity of those who should come after
them."
We entered without seeing a single
Arab, and pitched our tents in the centre of Petra.
The heat, during our long march, M as
very great; and as we all felt a little tired in consequence, we went early to
rest.
In the morning, the tribe of Wady
Moussa came down upon us in great force; they kept at a respectful distance
from our tents, but made so much noise, that we were glad to rise a little
G
122
DAYS AND NIGHTS
earlier
than usual. Ishmael said they had demanded an enormous tribute from our sheik;
so after breakfast, we assembled in our large tent, and resolved to offer them
three hundred piastres. The sheiks were then invited to a conference, but the
whole tribe followed, jabbering, and snaking a great noise. Mustapha then told
them we would give them three hundred piastres, if they would conduct us
through the place, and show us the ruins; at this they feigned surprise, and
walked away without even answering us; so we left the affair in the hands of
our friend T--, and retired to our tents.
The Arabs, who were at a short
distance, having held a stormy debate among themselves, returned to inform us,
that we should not move from our tents until we paid twelve hundred piastres.
Mustapha replied that we would give no more than we had at first offered, and
they retired, leaving a guard at each outlet of our camp.
IN THE EAST.
123
After waiting an hour or so, we
summoned our own sheik, Salami, before us, and told him in plain terms, that if
he did not escort us through the city, we would not pay him another para; and,
moreover, that he might look to the Arabs of Wady Maussa for the handsome dress
we had promised him.
This speech had the desired effect; for
he went to the tribe, and after a long talk, they returned with him to our
tent, and when we were all assembled, he told them, if they would not escort
us, he would himself with pleasure, and pocket the three hundred piastres. They
then offered to conduct us for; three hundred and twenty, but we were determined
to give no more than we had already proposed.
I am quite at a loss to describe the
uproar and confusion of an Arab council; they all take the same opportunity of
speaking in the most passionate and vehement manner, about even their most
trifling concerns; and only those who have mixed with them, can have an
124
DAYS AND NIGHTS
idea
of the noise and tumult occasioned by the steady manner in which we defended
our pockets. On our refusing the additional twenty piastres, they ordered us to
our tents in a most insolent manner, but finally made up their minds to take
the three hundred; and at 3 P.M. we started, attended by fifteen of the tribe.
Having decided on going at once to the
extraordinary, and only legitimate entrance to Petra, (for we had entered by
climbing over its southern wall), we followed our guides to the mouth of a
narrow ravine, choked up with oleanders, fig-trees, ivy, and other shrubs, through
which we made our way with difficulty. After traversing this gloomy defile for
twenty minutes, we entered an open area, and El Khasn’e burst upon our view in
all its grandeur and beauty.
I cannot attempt to describe my
feelings on viewing this splendid Temple; fresh as if sculptured yesterday. Its
facade is magnificent, hewn out of the rugged side of a sand-
IN THE EAST. 125
stone
mountain, whose rosy tints add much to its beauty; and whose rugged and
misshapen crests contrast singularly with this finely proportioned edifice.
The portico is supported by Corinthian
columns, one of which has fallen; but so imposing is the ensemble, that I did
not for some moments observe the defect; the cornice and pediment are
elaborately sculptured, and fresh and pointed, as from the hand of the mason.
The colonade is thirty-five feet high; the columns, three feet in diameter;
they each consist of three pieces, and are the only portions not hewn out of
the rock; and this accounts for the entireness of the cornice, though one of
the columns had fallen from beneath it.
I attribute much of the lightness and
elegance of the Khasn’e to the divided pediment and the light lantern-like
structure in its centre, surmounted by an urn. This urn is supposed by the
Arabs, to contain gold, which is likely to remain untold by them, unless their
ingenuity
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
can
suggest (which fate forbid) some other mode of reaching it, than by firing ball
at it, as they now often do.
The colossal figures, in alto relievo,
near the ground, between the exterior pilasters, are the only ornaments which
have suffered. The few steps leading to the portico are much worn, and partly
covered with soil, whence more than one slender tree has sprung up, whose
fragile stems and dainty green branches, almost compensate for the loss of the
prostrate pillar, whose place they fill; and which, the damp accumulation of
earth from which they spring, has doubtless, been the means of laying low.
The door-cases (of which there are
three) are exceedingly elegant, particularly those at each end of the portico,
which are adorned with beautiful Corinthian pilasters, elaborately sculptured,
and have circular holes above them, the edges of which are beautifully worked
in a wreathed pattern.
The
interior is quite plain; the great chamber
IN THE EAST. 127
is
forty-five feet square, and about twenty-five feet high; its walls smooth and
regular. The lateral chambers are about sixteen feet, by seven or eight; the
one on the left side is irregularly formed; and the general appearance of the
interior led me to suppose it had been left in an unfinished state.
Again we started to explore the
wonderful entrance to the city, the ravine called El Syk. We entered a cleft in
the mountain, directly opposite El Khasn’e, completely choked up with
luxuriant oleanders, and found ourselves treading the bed of a torrent: a most
frightful chasm it is; in many places so narrow, that I could almost touch its
sides, at the same time with my hands, and in no part wider than fifteen or
sixteen feet. We proceeded for at least a mile and a half up this gloomy, yet
sublimely beautiful track; the mountains rising on either side to an immense
height, and in some places overhanging the narrow winding defile, and completely
shutting out the sky from
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DAYS AND NIGHTS
view;
a place this, to see and feel the majesty of nature.
I began to feel oppressed with the
exceeding grandeur and peculiar character of the scene; and though in no mood
to utter a sound of any kind myself, must confess it was a relief to me to hear
the pieces of my companions who were in advance. It appeared they were shooting
some partridges and pigeons on the wing, to the delight and astonishment of the
Arabs of Wady Moussa, who like all the rest, have no idea of shooting at any
but stationary objects.
I traced almost all the way, the
remains of all aqueduct hewn out of the side of the mountain, a few feet above
the bed of the torrent; and in some parts the path has been widened by the
chisel; it is paved for a considerable distance with large flat stones, and on
the whole, the walking is not very difficult; a very strong current
occasionally rushes through it.
We had proceeded about half-way when
our guides told us there was nothing more to be
IN THE EAST.
129
seen
in that direction; and were so vehement in their request that we would go no
further, that our curiosity was excited to the utmost, and we dashed forward in
spite of them, determined to find the outlet to this singular pass. Not far
from the spot where we left our guides, the mountains are connected by a single
arch thrown across the chasm; it is about sixty feet above the ground, without
ornament, and the perpendicular faces of the rocks above it preclude the idea
that it was intended for a bridge: below it on each side are niches for
statues. From this point the mountains became gradually lower, and we soon
reached the entrance filled with oleanders, and so perfectly concealed, that
no one would fancy it to be the entrance to a city. The appearance of the
country beyond was not extraordinary, and we noticed only a few traces of the
chisel on the adjacent rocks.
In my way up, my attention was so
absorbed in the brand features of the scene, that I did
G5
130
DAYS AND NIGHTS
not
sufficiently notice many lesser beauties that struck me on my return. The
rugged rocks which towered to an immense height above our heads, were profusely
mantled with the richest vegetation. The clinging ivy added to the gloom of the
dark and narrow portions; while in those more exposed to the light, the deep
green brambles grew in thick masses, the wild fig spread wide her leafy arms,
and twining and creeping plants displayed their delicate greens in strong
contrast to the rosy tints of mountains of stone. When about thirty yards from
the outlet opposite the Khasn’e, I caught a glimpse of it, and after
extricating myself from the oleanders, once more stood in front of that gem of
the desert.