DAYS AND
NIGHTS
IN THE EAST
FROM THE ORIGINAL NOTES OF A
RECENT TRAVELER
THROUGH
EGYPT,
ARABIA-PETRA, SYRIA, TURKEY AND GREECE.
By
MISS PLUMLEY
LONDON PUBLISHED BY T. C. NEWBY,
72, MORTIMER
STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE.
1845
PREFACE.
For
the notes, from which the facts in the following volume are drawn, I am indebted
to another; but, for the remarks, reflections, or opinions, arising out of the
subject, I alone am responsible; and on me alone must the reader charge any
error apparent in either.
MATILDA
PLUMLEY.
LONDON,
May 19th 1845.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Leave
England... Bay and town of Syra...Land at Alexandria, Asses in Egypt
...Obelisks…Pompey's Pillar ...Mourning Women...leave Alexandria ...Plague of
Insects… Aft’e...First Night on the Nile--Appearance of the Country and
Villages, and their Women ..Pigeon-Shooting ..first sight of the Pyramids Reach
Boulac and Cairo...Slave Market ..Manner of progressing through the Bazaars
and Streets...the Bazaars…View of Cairo...Mosque of Abdel
Hassan...Conscientious scruples of its keeper...Death of a fellow traveller.
CHAPTER II.
Petrified
Forest...Pyramids of Ghizeh...Appearance of the Valley of the Nile
thence...Sphinx...Eagles...ovens for hatching Eggs...Women of Cairo...Law of
Divorce.
CHAPTER Ill.
Leave
Cairo...Moonlight on the Nile...our Boat's Crew... Religious Scruples...Bad
Weather...Arrangements for personal Comfort...Beni Souef ..Labour not of Love
..Tastes of the Crew…Produce of the Valley...first sight of
Crocodiles...Failure of our Reis in his Agreement...the Governor's treatment of
him…Temple of Denderah...Dogs...Arrival at Luxor.
Viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Temple
of Karnac...Dancing Girls...the Memnons...Temple of Medinet Abou...Mummy
Pits...Traffic in their contents...The Memnonium...Tombs of the Kings...General
Remarks on the Ruins...Leave Thebes.
CHAPTER V
Kenneh…Crocodile-shooting...Chants
of the Crew.. Sugar versus Treacle...Crocodiles again...Ruins of Abydos, and
the horse that conveyed me thither...appearance of the Country...half the crew
decamp...Siout...Tombs in Djebel el Koperi...Baths of Siout, and manner of
enjoying them...complete our Crew...Tombs in the Lybian range…Arrival at
Boulac.
CHAPTER VI
General
remarks...Produce of the Country, and its price...Practical Hints…First Essay
at Camel riding ..Shooborough...the Pasha.
CHAPTER VII
Start
for Suez...Partridges ..unexpected Summerset ..Suez...Wells of Moses...Track of
the Israelites...Fountain of Marah...an uninvited companion…Wilderness of
Sinai... Wady Feiran ...Arab musket practice...Beauty of the
Wilderness...Manner of Encamping...Cold Tea.
CHAPTER VIII
Wady
Feiran...Sheiks in full dress...Manner of entering the Convent...its interior...Ascent
and summit of Mount Sinai...Stinginess of the Superior...Camel-riding...Tents
of the Bedouins...annoyed by sand and heat...Wady Ine…The Khamseen...an
Overturn...Arab Fisherman...Picturesque appearance of our caravan...approach
Akaba.
CONTENTS. ix
CHAPTER IX.
The
great Hadj at Akaba…Visit the Bey, and some of the pilgrims, their
kindness...Dying Camel...Interview with the Governor and Alouin chiefs; their
complaisance, and the reason of it...leave-taking of an old sheik, difficulty
of coming to terms with the new ones...Scene in our Tent, and a very lively one
out of it...Wady el Ghor... sand again ..enter the Land of Edom.
CHAPTER X.
Ascents
and descents...Thirst...Dangerous Track...Situation of Petra...encamp
there...visit of the Arabs of Wady Moussa, who exact tribute...confusion of an
Arab Council--El Khasne...Magnificent Ravine El Syk.
CHAPTER XI.
Theatre
at Petra, and view thence, how truly pictured in the prophecies...Doric Temple
in the Eastern range...its contemplation disturbed...disputes among the
tribes...El Deir in the Western range...Corinthian Temple...Eastern
range...Desolation of Petra...Last view of its remains.
CHAPTER XII.
Aaron's
Tomb...Lizards...View from Mount Hor...An uncomfortable bed-fellow...fatiguing
day Gazelles…our tent alive...traces of War...Wady Ilwaller...Roman Wells
there... Arabs at the well...A Sheik exacts tribute...Valley of Hebron...Tomb
of Abraham and Sarah...View of Hebron ..Return of our Sheik to Akaba.
CHAPTER XIII.
General
Remarks...The necessary preparations to be made for crossing the desert, and
practical directions to travellers.
x CONTENTS
CHAPTER XIV.
Leave
Hebron...change in the appearance of our caravan...Turkish saddles...Solomon's
Pools. Bethlehem...approach to Jerusalem...threatened with quarantine...our quarters
in Jerusalem...appearance of the city, within the walls ...Mosque of
Omar...English Church...Church of the Holy Sepulchre...Garden of
Gethsemane...part of the valley of Jehoshophat--Tombs there...the prophesied
place of the Last Judgment.
CHAPTER XV.
Mount
of Olives, view of Jerusalem thence ..Great Hadj ..accompany the English Bishop
in their track...rushing of the Pilgrims towards the Jordan...their Immersion
..the Jordan...Dead Sea...Convent of St. Saba...return to Jerusalem by Siloam
..view of the City thence...Lower part of the Valley of Jehoshophat...visit the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre ...descent of the Holy Fire...disgraceful scenes
there...state of the Protestant Church in Jerusalem.
CHAPTER XVI.
Start
for Damascus...noisy Pilgrims ..Nablous...country ..Valley of Esdrelon...river
Kishon...native encampments...Caypha, Convent there; Acre...interview with the
Pasha...its fortifications--a merry monk...Mass...Nazareth...Beauty of the
women...Insects...Lizards...Mount Tabor...Tiberias...Slumber disturbed
..Capernaum …Lake of Genesaret.
CHAPTER XVII.
Ancient
paved road...native Tents...reach Damascus...our host there; his house...the
bazaars, their contents and visitors...Fine specimens of Architecture ...Ladies
of Damascus...Baths...Sherbet...exceedingly beautiful appearance of Damascus,
as we leave it...Baalbec..its Temples...Sirocco.
CONTENTS xi
CHAPTER XVIII.
Ascend Mount Lebanon...the Cedars...lovely village of
Beshirai ..its Inhabitants...Convent of Konobin...highly cultivated Country
..Tripoli...Beyrout...General remarks on Syria, its products and Inhabitants.
CHAPTER XIX.
Sail
from Beyrout...Cyprus ..Coast of Asia Minor...Smyrna...Dardanelles...Turkish
Forts…Hellespont...Sea of Marmora...First sight of Constantinople...Quarantine
quarters...Spoglio…Bosphorus...quit the Larazetto for Constantinople...the
Mosques...Slave-market...Alarm of Fire…Caiques...Bazaars…Dogs...Dancing Dervishes...leave
Constantinople.
CHAPTER XX.
Return
to Smyrna…Syra...Quarantine...fine Bathing...Centipedes...leave Syra...reach
the Piraeus...Acropolis...Natural situation of Athens...Parthenon...Olympeum…
Tower
of the winds...Temple of Theseus...Lantern of Demosthenes...Stadium...Theatre
of Herodias Atticus...Theatre of Bacchus...Pynz...Hill of Mars...Mount
Museum...Agora...Mount Lycabettus...Thoughts on Ancient Greek Art...Modem
Athens...Leave for England.
CHAPTER I.
The following pages are not intended
for the perusal, or at least for the information of those who are already
familiar with the laboured works which treat at large of all that the East
holds; but it is presumed, that at a time when universal attention is directed
thither, a familiar, circumstantial, and authentic account of the great things
we delighted to look on, and of the little things that would sometimes happen
to annoy, in our progress through Egypt, Syria, Arabia,--Petra, and Greece,
cannot but be interesting to a numerous class.
B
2
DAYS AND NIGHTS
The facilities afforded to travellers
in these our days, have left them little chance of incurring the imminent
dangers which beset the path of earlier pilgrims; let not the reader therefore
prepare for a chronicle of "moving
accidents." I have described everything
as we found it; and if "stations" and "hotels" have taken
something from the peril and romance of the way, I cannot admit they abstract
from the inherent beauty and interest of the objects to which they lead; and
invite all who hold the same opinion, to dip with us into a journal, which, if
it convey to them but a small portion of the pleasure which the writer felt in
looking on the scenes it attempts to describe, will not have been penned in
vain.
Left London on the 2nd of December;
whence, I will not ask the reader to go with me on the beaten track from Calais
to Marseilles, or thence to Malta; but we will join company on this 31st of
December, as we
IN THE EAST. 3
are
merrily seeing the old year out and the new one in, in the bay of Syra. This
town is miserable enough, the houses small, and their roofs flat; but like
many other wretched assemblages of the like, it has quite a different aspect
from the water, which is without a ripple, and reflects Syra with the truth of
a mirror; but this was not to last, a tremendous storm arose, which all the
day and night of the 1st, tossed us about in the bay, which is much exposed: on
the 2nd we started, the sea still running very high.
In our progress we passed a great many
islands; those of the Archipelago have a barren appearance. On the 4th, about
10 A.M., caught sight of the land of Egypt, and found it difficult to withdraw
my gaze: within an hour after the first glimpse, Pompey's pillar could be
distinguished, and at 12 we passed through the Pasha's fleet, and dropped our
anchor before Alexandria.
4
DAYS AND NIGHTS
We saw but little of the town on
entering the harbour, and oily landing were assailed by a drove of donkeys and
their drivers, and were obliged to mount to save our toes; our baggage (which
was not examined) was placed on camels, and we proceeded through a miserable
part of the town to the great square and the hotel.
The heavy storm which ushered in the
morning of the 5th having passed away, we all mounted donkeys (which are not
here the wretched-looking creatures that go by that name in England, but
handsome, high, and spirited), and visited the arsenal, where we met with a
young Egyptian who had been educated in England, and spoke our language
perfectly. We saw hundreds of fellahs working in gangs, many of them minus a
finger or an eye, cut off, or put out, in order that they may escape the
service; but the Pasha does not allow even this to exempt them. We went thence
to view the obelisks, one of which was thrown down by the British troops; but though they
IN THE EAST.
5
are larger than any I have seen in Europe,
they are by no means so perfect; for the hieroglyphics are entirely effaced on
the side, which that one which retains its original position presents towards
the East. Indescribably miserable was the part of the town through which we
passed.
The next day we went over the Pasha's
palace, which is furnished partly in the European style; the divan is
circular, and splendidly fitted up: from its window the whole harbour is to be
seen.
We were anxious to pay our tribute of
admiration to the most beautiful object in Alexandria--Pompey's pillar.* This magnificent column we regretted to
observe disfigured by the names of travellers written in large characters, in
some instances half way up the shaft. I could not help muttering to myself'
something about "throwing pearls before
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* This is now universally admitted to
be a misnomer.
6 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
swine,"
and wondering that among civilized nations, beings could be found to come
hither to desecrate in such a manner, a monument made so beautiful by art, and
so deeply hallowed by time, and by every association that connects the present
with the past.
In Egypt it seems, to be the peculiar
privilege of women to mourn over the departed; and in the cemetery in which
Pompey's pillar stands, we saw many singing or crying over the tombs, it would
be difficult to say which they bury their dead in graves not more than two feet
and a half deep.
On the 8th, our baggage was conveyed on
camels to the canal, which is about a mile and a half from the town; a 7 A.M.
we left Alexandria, and in another hour were sailing on the fine canal, (the
Mamhoudie,) which lies much above the low level of the country.
We had two boats, Colonel----- and I
took possession of one, and the remainder of our party of the other, which
being the largest we
IN
THE EAST.
7
used
as a salle a’ manger. Saw great quantities of wild fowl, but could not
get a shot. Sleep was out of the question, for the whole insect army of Egypt
was down upon us; we were obliged to resort to fire to repel them, and accordingly
lighted our lamp and pipes, and chatted away the night.
About 5 A.M. we arrived at the curious
village of Aft’e, on the Nile, and I was glad to escape from my berth which
had been anything but a comfortable one. We went to the French consul, for whom
we had a letter; he appeared anxious to do all in his power for us, and soon
found a reis who agreed to convey us to Cairo for three hundred piastres; and
after signing the agreement, we returned to the inn kept by an Italian, and
enjoyed a better breakfast than I had promised myself.
Aft’e is a singular village, built on
mounds of earth thrown out of the canal; the habitations are miserable in the
extreme, so low, that none but children can stand upright in them, and
8
DAYS AND NIGHTS
very
few can boast of a door; there are pigeon-houses on the tops of most of them.
Mr. C. and his lady (who were to join
us here, and to prosecute the remainder of our intended journey with us,)
arrived about 10, but the latter was so very ill, that we gave up the idea of
sailing to-day. Everything appeared so novel that we amused ourselves very
well, even in this miserable place, which, like all the villages of Egypt, is
full of dogs, which bear a great resemblance to the fox.
Dined on board, and attempted to sleep,
but this was impossible, for the army was much stronger than the one on the
canal; our cabin was quite alive; and if ever boat did, ours "will walk
the waters like a thing of life." 1 A.M., found me writing, and wondering
how my companions could possibly sleep amid this swarm of vermin: so passed my
first night on the Nile.
IN THE EAST. 9
The 10th found Mr. C.'s lady very ill;
about 10 A.M. we bade them adieu, (leaving Baron B----with them, and left
Aft’e, to proceed up the river.
The country appeared remarkably rich;
the villages large and numerous; they all stand under clumps of palm-trees, and
generally opposite each other, on either side of the river. On several
occasions we were delighted to watch the parties of their women who came to the
river for water. Blue is the only colour they are allowed to wear, and the
arrangement of their dress is simple in the extreme; it consists of three
pieces--a petticoat from the loins, a piece over the shoulders, the third,
which is worn over the head, also serves for covering the face; in height they
are rather above the European standard, and graceful as the statues of Greece;
they use for transporting the water, vases of a fine antique form; and as they
moved along with these on their heads, the beauty of their figures and extreme
elegance of their movements, left an abiding impression on the mind akin to
that produced by some fair vision.
10
DAYS AND NIGHTS
The beans were very high and in bloom,
and the whole country beautifully green. We burnt lamps at night in hope of
keeping the “creeping and flying things innumerable,” with which we were persecuted,
at a little distance, but only partially succeeded; however, I slept a little
in spite of everything, for the first time since leaving Alexandria.
The next day being calm, we left our
boat in order to shoot pigeons, and to see a few of the villages, all of which
we found finer and better built than Aft’e. The pigeon-houses, before
mentioned, are very curious, built of mud, in the form of sugar-loaf, the
interior fitted with earthern pots, nicely arranged from top to bottom. We were so busy shooting their tenants, that
we forgot all about the boat; the reis, it appeared, taking advantage of a
breeze which sprung up, had set his sails, and left us behind; at dinner time,
the old fellow was obliged to dispatch half his crew in all directions to find
us; and we did not reach our boat till
IN THE EAST.
11
late
in the evening, weary with the long distance we had walked.
About 11 A.M. next day, caught sight of
the everlasting pyramids;---certainly that first and distant view rather
disappoints one’s expectation; as children, we are taught to consider them as
among the world’s wonders; we think them not the less so, when, having passed
childhood, we endeavour to realize to our ardent imaginations, some idea of
their magnitude, architectural perfection, and indestructibility; and however completely
the pyramids of our creation may be revealed to us as we stand beneath them,
and compare their ponderous proportions with modern fabrics, (for then and
there, no one I should say, can feel disappointed), a contrary impression is
produced when they are first seen at three or four hours’ distance.
We reached Boulac between two and
three, and the mounting donkeys, rode to Grand Cairo, which is nearly two miles
from the river.
12
DAYS AND NIGHTS
This city offers a pleasing contrast
to, Alexandria; after passing through many of its turnings and windings, we
found ourselves at the grand eastern hotel; after a wash, we paid a visit to
the English consul, with whom we drank coffee and smoked pipes, as nearly as we
could manage it, in the Turkish fashion.
Walm’e is a good consul, perhaps, but he could give us no information
whatever; after our chat with him, we returned to our quarters, and enjoyed a delightful
night's rest in the absence of all tormentors.
The 14th very fine; rode to Boulac, and
engaged a boat for Upper Egypt; signed the, agreement with the reis before the
American consul, who had no more information to give than our friend Walm’e. We
next visited the slave-market, which is in the centre of the town; it is a
large square yard with cells all round it; the cells in a gallery above on one
side of this square, were filled with black slaves, and a more disgusting sight
I never
IN THE EAST. 13
beheld; they were valued at from 500 to 4000 piastres. The more beautiful and highly-priced slaves are not thus publicly exposed to view; but among those exhibited for sale was one girl rather pretty; she was much lighter than the rest and delicately formed, and she appeared very shy; the owner saw me looking at her, and offered to sell her for 3000 piastres; she had a most beautiful mouth, and the rascal knew it well, for he repeatedly opened it to shew me her fine teeth; I felt a great inclination to knock out his, and in order that I might not be tempted to make a useless exhibition of the indignation I could not but feel, hastened off in another direction.
We directed our course through the
town; the pace at which the donkeys carry you, through the ever-crowded alleys
of Cairo is quite astonishing; to be sure, a few were upset by us, but the
people regain their legs with great composure, and take no notice whatever. If
at any time we came to a standstill, the
14
DAYS AND NIGHTS
drivers
cried, " Kalic, kaluc, shemarluc," &c., applied their sticks
vigorously, and the, donkeys, in spite of our efforts to restrain them, bore
down in their way.
Cairo is certainly a fine city; its
bazaars are endless, and many of them at a first view cannot but strike the
stranger as extremely rich and picturesque, particularly those devoted to arms,
carpets, shawls, and jewellery, (for every article of use or ornament is to be
purchased only in the bazaar set apart for that particular class of
merchandize.) They are for the most part roofed with rafters, and are open at
each end; and through the centre a mixed multitude is incessantly pouring. On either side are the stalls of the
merchants whose rich wares are spread with lavish hand around, and above too,
for if the nature of his commodities admits, they are displayed hanging,
waving, or festooned towards the roof; there hangs the golden-broidered scarf
or shawl, the luxurious carpet, the dainty silk, or the flashing and
IN THE EAST.
15
jewelled
scimitar; and in the midst of this profusion, on a raised and carpeted
platform, sits the turbaned, bearded proprietor; who, when a frank attended by
his dragoman, comes to treat for his wares, seats himself opposite him on his
carpet, presents him with coffee and a pipe, (with which he is also himself
supplied) and, as they sip and smoke, the bargain is discussed and concluded,
the dragoman acting, of course, as interpreter, and invariably taking charge of
his master's purse, which he resigns only with his engagement. Buyers and
sellers thus engaged, added to the motley costumes of the passing throng, make
altogether a scene, of which it is difficult to give a complete description.
On our return we found that our friend,
whom we had left at Aft’e with his sick wife, had arrived; she was better, but
still very ill. The next morning we paid a visit to the citadel, which stands
high above the town, and from this elevation the view of Cairo is splendid.
16 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
The
most conspicuous object in the town itself, is the great mosque of Abdel
Hassan, with its immense domes and graceful minarets; and the peculiar
characteristic of the houses is their flat roofs: the eye, however, does not
rest long upon either of these objects, but ranges over the varied and
extensive scene beyond.
On that side of Cairo where stand the
tombs of the caliphs, lies the desert, and its arid sands at that point come
close to the very walls of the city. In the distance are the pyramids, and more
distant still, the mountains; and to this wilderness, the broad Nile and
cultivated valley, and the beautiful gardens of the Pasha offer an agreeable
relief.
The Pasha was building a beautiful
mosque on the site of Saladin palace, the only remains of which are a few
broken pillars; the marble they were raising had the external appearance of
alabaster.
The palace is not worth seeing; the
citadel contains the Mint, the Hall of Justice, and Joseph's Well, which
supplies it with water.
IN THE EAST. 17
We next visited the largest mosque in
Cairo, that of Abdel Hassan; its immense size and the absence of all
decoration, strike a stranger forcibly on entering; and his eyes and ears are
greeted by the sight and sound of the silver waters of the large fountain which
rises under the dome. Beyond is the tomb of Abdel Hassen, on which is placed
an immense and richly ornamented copy of the koran.
I glanced with some little apprehension
at my boots, on having the fact brought to my recollection, that it is
customary to uncover the feet on entering a mosque; but this was soon relieved
by my guide, who thrust a pair of slippers over them; and thus qualified, I
walked in. As there were no more slippers to be had, my friend remained at the
threshold; but we had not advanced many paces when he bethought himself of
holding up a 3-piastre piece; this overcame their scruples, and (booted as he
was) they beckoned him to follow.
18
DAYS AND
NIGHTS
Our first inquiry on reaching home, was
for Mrs. C.; we found her gradually sinking, and at 11 that night she died. She
was beautiful and amiable, and only 23; her loss cast a gloom over us all.
On the 16th I did not leave my room;
and at 7 the next morning, the remains of our fellow-traveller were placed in
a coffin, and the Church of England service performed over them. Her husband
intended transporting them to America, and between 6 and 7 in the evening we
followed them to Boulac, where a boat was waiting to convey them to Alexandria.
The American consul's janissary led the way, attended by Arabs, each holding
high in the air blazing fires in small iron baskets; and strange and wild was
the appearance of the funeral procession, as the fitful red light flashed on
the group of Arabs who assisted in conveying the body; their light dresses and
red caps contrasting strongly with our own dark garments--for she was followed
by four Europeans all of different nations.
IN THE EAST.
19
We arrived at Boulac a little before 9,
and a few minutes after the boat dropped down the river with her melancholy
freight, and we returned to Cairo.
20
DAYS AND
NIGHTS
CHAPTER II.
On the 18th we visited the petrified
forest which is about five miles from Cairo. Many entire trunks of palm and
other trees are lying here, perfectly transformed into solid stone, and the
hills for miles are covered with fragments of their branches, brittle, and
glazed in appearance, and which on being struck, give forth a ringing metallic
sort of sound, something similar to that elicited from the musical stones
(commonly so called) quarried in Westmoreland.
The
l9th was a lovely day; we started at 9,
IN THE EAST.
21
to
see the pyramids; passed through some beautiful gardens belonging to
Ibrahim Pasha, to old Cairo; where we
crossed the Nile, and had a delightful ride, through a very rich country.
The pyramids stand on a sandy plain, about
sixty feet above the valley of the Nile, and about four miles from Cairo. Truly
sublime did they appear to me as I now for the first time stood face to face
before these mutely eloquent monuments; but I will spare the reader the train
of ideas which was interrupted by the offer of the guides to assist me in
making the ascent with the help of two very active fellahs I gained the top
with ease in a few minutes, and found the task much lighter than I had been led
to imagine. The stones are very irregular, and from two to four and a half feet
in height.
The space at the top, I should think
about twenty feet square: the view from it is fine in the extreme. On one side
flows the Nile, through one of the richest valleys in the world;
22 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
on
the other is the fearful Lybian desert. It appeared as if there were some
hidden barriers against the flowing sands, and that the fertilizing waters of the
Nile were not unaided in repelling them; so distinct is the desert from the
valley: it seems from this height quite possible to walk with one foot in
either. More distant, the domes and minarets of Cairo, rise above masses of
trees against the sky; and close beneath the enormous sphinx reveals her colossal
proportions, dimly but unmistakably, through the sand, which veils, but does
not quite conceal that part which lies between the shoulders and tail; and as
the clouds at this moment break, a flood of sun-light crosses the track of a
company of Arabs and camels, and their many coloured dresses and picturesque
arrangement contrast powerfully opposed to the uniform tone of the plain
around.
We gazed long on the scene I have
attempted to describe, and even then turned unwillingly to make the descent.
The vast proportions of
IN THE EAST. 23
the
great pyramid strike you more when half way up its side, than from any other
point. Its height is 461 feet. The clouds which had screened us having
dispersed, we felt much annoyed by the heat, and were glad to halt for a time
in a small chamber about one third of the way down.
The descent is very easy; but this is
more than I can say for our task in the interior, to which the entrance is on
the northern side. The passage inclines at the angle of 27° and is about three
and a half feet square: at the end of this passage is a false entrance to the
right, up which we were pulled by our guides, and found ourselves in another
passage (inclining upwards,) one hundred feet in length, and five in height. In
a recess at the extremity of this second passage, is the well spoken of by
Pliny. A third, and very low passage, led us to the Queen's chamber--a rather
large apartment, with an arched, and somewhat pointed roof above this is the
King's chamber, which is five
24
DAYS AND NIGHTS
good
strides in width, and eleven in length; its sides are of polished granite, its
roof flat, and composed of enormous stones; at one end is a broken sarcophagus,
which it is evident, (from the fact of its being too large to have entered the
apartment, either by its entrance or its approaches,) must have been placed in
it as their construction was in progress.
There are several chambers above this,
but the ladder which leads to them was broken, and as we had no means of
supplying its place, we were fain to exchange the intense heat for the
comparatively cool external air, which we reached, nearly choked with dust.
We now approached to take a nearer view
of the sphinx. The face is not of that order of beauty, or to be measured by
those proportions which the whole civilized world has for more than two
thousand years agreed to worship; possibly it imaged forth the beau-ideal of an
earlier age, and even in its present mutilated state a surprising degree of
sweetness and repose
IN THE EAST. 25
dwells
on every feature. The sands have been cleared from the upper part of the
figure, and a wooden frame-work set up, which in a great degree has resisted
their progress, and enough was to be seen to give an idea of its exquisite
proportions. The head has suffered very much; one of our party took aim at an
eagle that was perched on it, but we persuaded him to refrain from shooting it;
there were, however, many of these majestic birds about the pyramids. and he
brought down several of large size.
The
objects which next engaged our attention were of a different order from those
we were contemplating yesterday; viz: the ovens for hatching eggs; it being an
extraordinary but well-known fact, that the liens in Egypt will not take the
trouble to hatch their own; we did not see the process in operation, as they do
not begin till next month, (February.) We staid some time watching the boats,
which are constantly engaged in conveying passengers and provision: from this
side of the river to Old
26
DAYS AND NIGHTS
Cairo
on the opposite bank; and afterwards rode to Boulac, where they were painting
our boat, preparatory to our starting for our further voyage up the Nile.
Spent the 21st in the bazaars; found
one very narrow one, filled with druggists; I bought some otto of roes of an
old fellow, who applied the cork of the bottle to my whiskers and mustachios
with such a liberal hand, that I carried a violently perceptible sweet odour
with me. I was more annoyed than ever on this day with the sight of the women,
whose ugly habit of blinking at you with one eye, had impressed me disagreeably
from the first. On the approach of a man they are obliged to cover their faces,
which, if I may judge from the few I saw, (and the pretty ones, it is said
alone, by accident let fall their veil,) are extremely ugly; their eyes are
large, but their features irregular, with a bad expression.
The law of divorce is singular; the
husband is only obliged to say to his wife, in the presence
IN THE EAST. 27
of
two witnesses, "I divorce thee;" he may a second time marry her after
she has been married by another; but if the divorce be a third time pronounced,
he can never marry her again.
In the afternoon of the 22nd
the camels were brought to convey our luggage to the boat; they make a dreadful
noise during the whole time the business of loading them is going on; this was
not accomplished till 6, and it was 8 when we got on board.
c2
28
DAYS AND NIGHTS
CHAPTER III.
On the 23rd, at 1 A.M., we hoisted the
Prussian flag, and left the shore; the wind was not favourable, and the crew
were obliged to tow. As we were passing the island of Rhoda, an officer boarded
us, saying, that our reis owed him 900 piastres, and that it was his intention
to arrest him; if he came with the idea that we should liquidate the debt
rather than lose our reis, (as I have no doubt he did) he found himself
mistaken; for we shewed him the Pasha's firmam, and stated we were not in-
IN THE EAST.
29
clined
to submit to delay for any one; so he quietly took a cup of coffee, and left us
and our reis.
We arrived at Old Cairo at 7, and
witnessed the most gorgeous sunset that even this clime can display; for the
sun sunk behind the pyramids, and left on the Arabian mountains, and the sky
with which they seemed to mingle, a hue and a glory of which nor pen or pencil
can give an idea. Something of the twilight tinge which succeeds this, Martin
gave in his " Flight into Egypt," exhibited two years ago.
The next morning was dreadfully cold; I
shivered under my cloak; the wind was favourable, and at 11 A.M. we sailed
away in gallant style, and soon lost sight of the Great Pyramid, and passed
those of Scharah and Dashoor; the immense proportions of the latter were very
striking. Passed the village of Holman about 2; and after a good day's sail,
hauled up to the bank close to a village; it was a beautiful moonlight night,
and long did
30
DAYS AND NIGHTS
I
remain looking on the silent river and the majestic palms; there was just wind
enough to stir their feathery branches; and as they waved gracefully to and
fro, the moonlight lay on their pale edges (in contrast with the dark green of
the leaf above) like molten silver.
By the next morning the wind had
changed and was blowing in our teeth; our men made so little progress, that at
night we could see our starting-post. Our boat was somewhat too large and
heavy; it had two cabins and a capital tent on the quarter-deck, where we dined
in hot weather; the two latteen sails were immense, I should think the main
full eighty feet in length; they gave her a very elegant appearance. Our crew
consisted of twelve, (without the reis), six of whom were blacks from Nubia.
We were upon the whole very
comfortable, and in cold weather could shut ourselves in, for we had six glass
windows in the cabin--very necessary articles, even in this climate.
IN THE EAST.
31
The next morning brought but little
wind and our men were again obliged to tow; we halted at a village at
breakfast--time for some milk, which we did not succeed in obtaining; their
sheik came on board, and having smoked a pipe, asked for some tobacco; but as
we had only just enough for our journey, we thought it prudent to refuse him;
at this, the old fellow went off quite disappointed, without giving us the
customary salute.
The men continued to tow till noon,
when we hauled to the bank to rest them; and as soon as they had made fast,
they threw themselves on the sand, and were almost instantly asleep; while they
were thus engaged, the Count and I went into a village and astonished the natives
by shooting their pigeons: in a short time we had all the inhabitants round us,
who eagerly pointed out the birds for us to shoot. Though most of them fell
quite dead, I observed they cut off their heads, which Agassi (my dragoman)
explained by saying, that the
32
DAYS AND NIGHTS
Mahomedans
are forbidden to touch anything killed by an infidel; so they no doubt settled
all qualms of conscience by the proceeding just described.
The following was a terrible day; we
moved about half a mile up the river, but the wind being right in our teeth,
were obliged to haul to the bank: as we peeped out from our windows, the scene
was most desolate; the air was loaded with sand, which it carried in clouds
hither and thither with great fury; and our men had taken shelter under a high
bank, where they lay huddled together.
The two next days brought but little improvement
in the weather, and we made scarcely any progress; on the third, we could make
no way; and I had my head shaved by one of our crew, who had a touch as light
as any Parisian barber could boast of: the sensation was agreeable, and I felt
extremely comfortable after the operation. The tarbouch is a red cap with a
silk tassel, and is a delightful head-dress; it is worn by all the Pasha's
troops, and with few
IN THE EAST. 33
exceptions,
by all other classes in Egypt. Europeans are obliged to protect the head from
the excessive heats of the country, by winding a shawl round the tarbouch, in
form of a turban; a custom very generally practised by the natives, but an
indulgence not allowed to the military.
The next morning (the 31st) early,
there was a fine favourable wind, and we piped all hands, but it soon fell, and
we were again obliged to crawl along the banks at a snail's pace, which we
could not quicken, either on that day or the next; the evening of which found
us (having worked our way with great difficulty,) at Beni Souef, about two
hours after a most gorgeous sunset.
We landed for a short time, and took a
cup of coffee in one of the miserable coffee-houses of the town. Beni Souef is
quite deserted, Mahomed Ali having forced all its inhabitants to work at the
dykes; we saw about a dozen marching away with iron collars round their necks,
and guarded by soldiers.
c5
34
DAYS AND NIGHTS
This
morning, February 2nd, the wind became favorable, and we sailed in gallant style
till 10 A.M. when it fell.
The Arabs are so fond of company of all
sorts, that they take care, if possible, to haul the boat either close to a
village, or some other boats, from which you receive a fresh supply of rats and
other vermin; but for a change we made them drift her into the middle of the
river, and cast anchor. This was a fine day's sail, and we were all in good
spirits. 3rd, splendid wind, so we weighed at an early hour, but at 11, ran,
with all our canvas set, on one of the shifting sand-banks, which make the
navigation of the Nile so difficult.
We were in this pleasant position about
three hours, during which we had made more than one attempt to get her off; at
two P.M. we gave our men a glass of spirits, (to which, whatever travellers may
say, we never found them object,) and piped all hands to make another effort.
The count jumped overboard to see that all did their duty, while V--- and I
remained
IN THE
EAST.
35
at
the poles, and in a few minutes we were again running at a great rate before
the wind.
About fifteen miles south of Beni
Souef, the Nile washes the base of the Arabian mountains; these and the Lybian
range run through the whole length of the country, enclosing and protecting
from the deserts the splendid valley through which the river holds its
serpentine course. The country is flat, and consequently there is little
variety in the scenery; but nothing can exceed the richness of the crops.
All the grain is bearded; wheat, beans,
peas, Indian corn, sugar-cane, rice, dates, coarse tobacco, cotton, and white and
red clover, are the general produce. In the pastures we saw immense numbers of
buffaloes, unlike the animal known in England by that name; they are very
large, of a dirty blackish colour, and have no hump on the back. In order to
protect their unwieldly bodies from the attacks of insects they remain in the
river during the heat of the day, and when the sun was powerful, we saw
36
DAYS AND NIGHTS
droves
of them with only their noses above water, their flesh is not eatable, but we
found their milk excellent.
The
Pasha has introduced a great many head of cattle from Europe; there are no
pigs, (of course in a nation of Mahomedans,) but plenty of sheep, fowls and
pigeons. As far as that part of
the river in which we now were, the valley (whose average width is 27 miles,)
had presented the rich appearance I have described; but above this, on the
Arabian side, for miles there was no cultivated ground. Here was an encampment
of Bedouins, the first we had seen, but they were at too great a distance for
us to examine their appearance minutely, even had we not been-sailing at a
great rate; on a previous day one of our boatmen was taken ill, of course we
prescribed for him; to-day another complains, and we have administered a dose
of magnesia. I suppose we shall have to do the same to all; for, strange to
say, they are delighted of an excuse to take physic, of which they are really
fond: as we gave them only
IN THE EAST.
37
magnesia,
and as a single dose never failed to remove their ailments, it is pretty clear
they could have been only fancied.
Fine wind all night; we ran on several
sand. banks, but fortunately lost but little time; the navigation at night is
very difficult. At 8 the following morning, we sailed with a fine wind into
Mineyeh, where we remained a few minutes for our men, who bought their bread in
the town; passed Melani at 10 A.M. having sailed beautifully all day. Light
wind all night; there were a great many boats going up, but ours passed them
with ease; we only struck on one sandbank, but this detained us an hour.
5th. Splendid wind still; at 10 A.M. we
met a boat bearing the American stripes and stars spoke her, but the delicious
breeze allowed us but little time for a parley, and carried us at a tremendous
pace into Manfacant. About half an hour before our arrival we observed a party
of crocodiles, to the number of 8 or 10 on a bank, and regretted that we could
not have a shot at
38 DAYS
AND NIGHTS
them,
but the wind was too precious to lose a single puff; they were the first we had
seen; indeed, they are now never met with lower than Mineyeh, though ancient
historians speak of them at the river's mouth.
We remained at this village half an
hour for provisions; and after a fine afternoon's sail, arrived at 9 A.M. at
Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt. Here our reis found some of his friends, and
refused to move when we ordered him to make sail; some of our party went into
the town to solicit the interference of the Governor to oblige our refractory
sailing-master to fulfill the terms of the agreement, which (as is usual in
such cases) was, that we should sail night and day when the wind was
favourable; and that when it was foul, the crew should not tow except between
sun-rise and sun-set; however, the Governor had retired to his harem, and we
were obliged, with what patience we
could, to pass the night stationary, instead of taking advantage of the wind,
which was fine.
IN THE EAST.
39
Early next morning we had our reis up
before the Governor, who having asked a few questions, made a sign, whereupon
three of the guards seized the delinquent, and threw him on the floor, when he
received an unmerciful thrashing, until we cried, “Hold! enough !" I asked
Agassi how long he would have been beaten, had we not interfered? he replied,
that it depended on the humour of the Governor; and that had it not been for
us, he would have received it on the soles of his feet.
He
returned quite an altered man; and at 12, we left Siout, deferring the
inspection of the tombs, &c. in its neighbourhood till our return. The fine
breeze with which we left, continued through this day and the two next; but
dropped on the 8th at midnight. On the 9th, our men were obliged to tow, and we
went on shore to shoot, and found immense numbers of pigeons, but no game. At
4, we had a nice breeze, and sailed well till 8, when our pilot ran our boat
into a creek, in which we lost a great deal of time.
40
DAYS AND NIGHTS
At noon the following day we landed at
Kenneh, to walk to the temple of Dendirah, which lies about a mile and a half
from the river; it is one of the most perfect and the most
correctly-proportioned in Egypt; its massive columns are seven feet in
diameter, and the distance between them is not more than two diameters and a
half; and the solidity and (if the word be permitted) the peculiar solemnity of
Egyptian sacred architecture strike the traveller with awe, when he looks on
this, the first temple to which his steps are turned in the ascent of the Nile.
The facade and vestibule are exceedingly grand; the whole of its columns
covered with hieroglyphics, whose colours have, however, suffered from the
easterly winds.
With the aid of candles we explored the
inner chambers, which we found equally rich in sculptured and painted
hieroglyphics; on the ceiling of the largest, the signs of the zodiac are
painted. This splendid temple is disfigured with the miserable ruins of a
modern
IN THE EAST. 41
town,
which was deserted a few years ago, (for what reason no one could inform us).
At 3, we were again under sail; in the evening
we ran on a sand-bank, where we spent the night. At 6 the following morning,
our men got the boat off; the breeze was light, and increased till 10, when we
sailed; with every prospect of seeing Thebes before night, but were again to be
doomed to disappointment; for the wind fell at 2 P.M., and we crawled along the
banks at a miserable pace, and anchored about five miles from Thebes, near one
of the Pasha's cotton plantations. The valley here is very narrow on the Lybian
side, but the Arabian range can hardly be seen. The wheat was in bloom, and
they were planting tobacco. Our men made a large fire, round which they sat
like so many monkeys; for they screw themselves into the ordinary attitude of
those animals. It is quite delightful to see them enjoy the heat. At tea-time,
Agassi informed us he had no milk, and that one of our men would
42
DAYS AND NIGHTS
go
with him to the Pasha's temporary settlement. I took down my sword and joined
them; on the outskirts of the said settlement we sustained a severe attack
from the dogs, who appeared determined to oppose us; but they kept at a
respectful distance from my steel; we found a dozen men round a capital fire,
near which they made room for me, while Agassi executed his commission. We were
escorted on our return by half the party, who kept off their dogs, at which
attention he seemed highly delighted. We passed the night here, and at 10 the
next morning arrived at Luxor.
IN THE EAST.
43
CHAPTER IV.
As soon as possible after landing, we
took our way to the temple of Karnac, which stands about a mile and a half from
Luxor; the approach to it is through an avenue of sphinxes, which at one time
extended the whole distance, and many of which now raise their mutilated
shoulders, (for none boast of a head), at intervals, above the sand in which
they are imbedded. This avenue leads to the temple of Isis, which formed one
of a series of smaller ones connected with the great temple.
The
entrance to the temple of Isis is magnificent,
44
DAYS AND NIGHTS
and
the only perfect one remaining at Karnac. But I forgot all on entering the
great temple; for never did I see such a scene of havoc and destruction. If the
great pyramid had been shaken to its foundation, it could not have covered a
much greater space; tottering walls and pediments, broken obelisks and columns,
all of immense proportions, thrown in all directions, covering the ground, with
here and there a threatening pillar declining from its centre, gave to this
immense ruin an air of desolation not met with in any other; and yet, 134 of
its gigantic columns still remain in a perfect state, covered with
hieroglyphics, and beautifully proportioned, forming an avenue through the
centre of the building, along which the eye ranges through an extent of upwards
of 1200 feet. The roof of one immense apartment is composed of enormous slabs,
and was supported by sixteen rows of pillars, beyond which lies another of
still larger dimensions, which was upheld by 168 columns.
IN THE EAST. 45
The outer walls are in a good state of
preservation, and on their sides, the wars of the kings of Egypt are
represented, many of the figures as large as life. In front of the temple
stands the obelisk of Luxor perfect and beautiful; its hieroglyphics fresh as
if sculptured yesterday; and I should imagine no one could look on the vacant
spot where its equally perfect companion stood, without lamenting the
existence of that false taste which has led the French to transport it to
the “Place de la Concorde," in
their capital, where it is so lamentably out of place, and where the frost has
already done on it the work of time, and bids fair to destroy it utterly;
instead of leaving it in a spot to which it gave, and from which it received
beauty.
In the temple itself, of the many
obelisks that decorated it, two only remain on their pedestals. The avenue
which passes through the largest of the numerous temples connected with the
great one, was prolonged by a double row of sphinxes to a similar gateway to
that
46
DAYS AND NIGHTS
on
the east side; and each of the principal entrances was likewise, through
avenues of sphinxes, and one entire cluster of temples would appear to have
been surrounded by a line of those monsters. The finest view of the ruins is
from the smallest obelisk standing; shattered sphinxes, statues of sheep and
other animals (many of them of colossal size) lie in every direction; but no
adequate idea of this vast ruin, this assemblage of temples, which covers a
space nearly two miles in circuit, can be conveyed by the pen. An Arab village is built in and about it)
and nothing can be more striking than the contrast offered between its
miserable hotels and these monuments of a vanished race.
We did not return to out boat till late
in the evening; on reaching Luxor we found one belonging to two of our
countrymen, with whom the passed the evening; during which we were entertained
by the performances of a troop of dancing girls.
IN THE EAST.
47
The next morning (the 13th,) was very
cold; we crossed the river in a small boat, to visit the wonders on that side:
and on landing, were assailed by a number of fellahs who wished to act as our
guides; we selected two, but the whole troop followed for a great distance. We
first visited the colossal memnons, called by the Arabs, Shanny and Danny;
these splendid statues stand alone on the plains, surrounded by cornfields, and
are on account of their beauty, size, and antiquity, interesting objects; the
heads had suffered very much, and unfortunately one had been repaired.
The temple of Medinet Abou, which was
the next object of our attention, stands to the south of Thebes, and is
remarkable for the beauty and high preservation of its hieroglyphics. The
court in the centre is exceedingly fine, and all its columns (which are square)
are, as well as its walls, quite perfect; they are covered with hieroglyphics,
which are full half an inch deep (intaglio) beautifully colored with
48
DAYS AND NIGHTS
red,
blue, &c. The exterior walls are covered by sand, and little is to be seen
with the exception of the grand entrance and the centre square.
We passed several deep mummy pits; a
little fellow ran after me, offering the head of a mummy for one piastre; and
the ground was covered with all parts of the human frame, torn from the pits by
the Arabs; the Pasha's edict has gone forth forbidding the traffic in mummies,
which was formerly carried on by them in this place; not that he wished to
dabble in it, but, because lie preferred employing them in draining or
cultivating the laud; but we saw enough to convince us that it still goes on to
a considerable extent.
The Memnonium must have been a splendid
temple, and is still (after Karnac) the finest in Egypt; it has suffered more
from the busy hand of man than from the Great Destroyer; all its beautiful
statues have been removed, and but little remains, except two rows of columns;
on
IN THE EAST.
49
four
of which the figures are still almost perfect, and exhibit a greater variety,
and higher degree of finish than is found in any other. These temples stand on
the edge of a plain, at the foot of the Lybian range, which rises to a great
height; its sides pierced with excavations and tombs, many of which are
inhabited by Arabs, in a primitive condition; on entering the ruins of the
Memnonium, we surprised three of these miserable creatures in a state of
nudity; they ran away and took refine on the top of the great wall which faces
the Nile, where they remained until we had left the place.
It was noon next day before we crossed
to the western bank, owing to a mutiny among our crew; we had them up before
the Governor, who thought fit to bastinado one fellow, and send them all to
prison for the day.
We mounted donkeys and ascended the Lvbian
range by a very steep path, and descended into a very deep valley, in which are
the tombs
50
DAYS AND NIGHTS
of
the Kings. We visited Belzoni's first; a flight of steps led us down to a lofty
door-way about twenty feet below the surface, through which we entered a long
corridor, at the end of which are the sepulchral chambers, at a great depth in
the mountain; they are large and well proportioned; the largest has an arched
roof, but its walls have suffered from some cause; I believe the experiments
(!) of a French traveler.
All the walls are plastered, and
covered with mysterious paintings and hieroglyphics.
The gods are represented by figures a
foot and a half high, of men with birds' heads; they are hand-in-hand with the
Kings, whose titles are written above them; the other figures are serpents,
hyaenas, geese, storks; but the favorite is the owl: both in their paintings
and hieroglyphics the key of the Nile is seen near every King. The paintings in
the small chamber near the arched one, are the most beautiful and perfect; the
principal colours are red, blue, yellow and green; the primitive colours alone
IN THE EAST.
51
being
known to the Egyptians. The corridors are not plastered, but ornamented by
hieroglyphics cut in the stone; we visited five others which appeared very
poor, after the splendid one discovered by Belzoni; they are the most
extraordinary excavations in the world, and among the most interesting of
Egypt's wonders.
I have described the principal objects
in Thebes, but there are immense and shapeless masses of ruins in all
directions; the paintings and decorations are similar in all the temples of
Egypt; the winged globe, with serpents over every gateway, and the sacred
vulture over every temple: in most of the hieroglyphics, birds and animals are
introduced: I noticed very few composed entirely, of characters.
In no instance are obelisks found on
the western bank of the Nile, or pyramids on the eastern; and we see clearly
the poetry and beauty of this arrangement, if we consider the former as
representing a beam of the sun, and being thus placed, the first objects to
receive on
D2
52
DAYS AND NIGHTS
their
Gilded heads (for many were gift) the earliest of his rays; while as he sank in
the west, he shone full on the funeral monuments of those whose sun of
existence had for ever set.
With the exception of Shanny and Danny,
all the ruins of Egypt are surrounded by the sands, although they are within a
short distance of the cultivated valley; in fact, they may be said to form a
nucleus, round which the sands accumulate to a much greater depth than
elsewhere. It is nevertheless true, that vast tracts have been lost within the
last century, which may be accounted for in some measure by the increased depth
of the Nile's channel, which of course diminishes the extent to which it
overflows its banks, and repels the sands of the desert; the average height of
the banks in this month, (February) I should guess at twelve or fourteen feet
above water-mark.
At Thebes, the c