Entering the palace, and passing through a suite of
rooms crowded with attendants, we found the Pasha, in the most remote one,
seated a la Turque upon an elevated divan. Introduced by our consul, I was
graciously received, and the usual preliminaries of sherbet, pipes and coffee
having been discussed, I presented the imperial firman. With
an air of deep respect he carefully read it, and professed his readiness to obey
it. In making out the instructions to his various
subordinates in our contemplated route, a singular difficulty was presented. He
was uncertain whether the eastern side of the Jordan was included in his
jurisdiction or in that of the Pasha of Damascus, with whom, although of an
inferior rank, he was unwilling to interfere. To my suggestion
of sending a messenger to Damascus, he with some hesitation confessed that he
would not like by such a step to betray ignorance of the extent of his
jurisdiction. We consulted a chart, but as the limits of his pashalic were not
geographically defined, it threw no light upon the subject. We at length
ascertained that jurisdiction vested in the Pasha of Damascus, and to that
functionary a messenger was forthwith despatched. As this circumstance
reflects discreditably upon the
The Rev. Eli Smith, of the American Presbyterian
mission, although in ill health, exerted himself in our behalf, and to him we
were indebted for securing the services of an intelligent young Syrian, named
Ameuny, for our dragoman or interpreter. I also engaged an Arab, named Mustafa,
as cook. The other gentlemen of the mission rendered us all the assistance in
their power, and cheered us with cordial good wishes for our success. We received here two pocket chronometers forwarded
by Dent from London; and I had the satisfaction of engaging Dr. Anderson, of
New York, as physician and geologist, while we should be descending the Jordan,
and exploring the Dead Sea. An English party having been recently attacked, in
attempting to descend the Jordan, the tribes might yet be in an exasperated
state, and in the event of gun-shot wounds, surgical aid would be
indispensable. Lieutenant Molyneux, R. N., the commander of that party, having,
like Costigan, the only man who preceded him, perished of fever caught on the
Dead Sea, I felt it a duty to secure the valuable services of Dr. Anderson. I
directed him to proceed across the country, to make a geological
reconnoissance, and to join us, if he could, on the route from Acre to
Tiberias. For the purpose of making some necessary pecuniary
arrangements, I was introduced by Mr. Smith to a wealthy Syrian merchant. When
informed of the nature of our undertaking, he first said, " It
is madness;" but the mo-
Our
consul, Mr. Chasseaud, was indefatigable in his efforts to facilitate us; and
notwithstanding the weather was tempestuous, with incessant rain, we were ready
at the expiration of the first twenty-four hours. H. B. M. Consul-General,
Colonel Rose, was kind and obliging. Besides partaking of his hospitality, I
was indebted to him for a letter to Mr. Finn, H. B. M. Consul at Jerusalem,
-rendered the more acceptable, as our country has no representative there. Beirut
is a Franco-Syrian town, with a proportionate number of Turkish officials. The
customs of the east and of the west are singularly blended, but the races
remain distinct, separated by difference of complexion and of
faith. The most striking peculiarity of dress we saw, was the
tantur, or horn, worn mostly by the wives of the
mountaineers. It was from fourteen inches to two feet long,
three to four inches wide at the base, and about one inch at the
top. It is made of tin, silver, or gold, according to the
circumstances of the wearer, and is sometimes studded with precious stones.
From the summit depends a veil, which falls upon the breast, and, at will,
conceals the features. It is frequently drawn aside,
sufficiently to leave one eye exposed, -in that respect resembling the mode of
the women of Lima. It is worn only by married women, or by
unmarried ones of the highest rank, and once assumed, is borne for life.
Although the temple may throb, and the brain be racked with fever, it cannot be
laid aside. Put on with the bridal-robe, it does not give place to the shroud.
The custom of wearing it, is derived from the Druses, but it is also worn by
the Maronites. Its origin is unknown; it is supposed to have
some reference to the words,
The illimitable sea was
upon one side, the lofty barrier of the Lebanon on the other, with a
highly-cultivated plain, all verdure and bloom, between them. But so
indispensably necessary did I deem it to reach the Jordan before the existing
flood subsided, that no time was allowed to note the beauties of the
surrounding scene. It seemed better to descend the river with a rush, than
slowly drag the boats over mud-flats, sand-banks, and ridges of rock. Monday, March 27. At
night, got under way; but the wind failing, and a heavy sea tumbling in, we
were compelled to anchor again. Tuesday, 28. A. M. The
wind light, and adverse, -employed in packing instruments, and making all ready
for disembarkation. 3 P. M. Sailed with a fine breeze from the
north-west. At midnight, having passed Sidon and Tyre, heaved
to off the White Cape ("Album Promontorium" of the Romans, and "
Ras-el-Abaid" of the Syrians), the north extreme of the bay of Acre.
At daylight filled away,
and the wind blowing fresh, sailed past the town of St. Jean d'Acre, its
battlements frowning in the distance, and anchored under mount Carmel, before
the walled village of Haifa. With great difficulty I
landed through the surf, in company with our dragoman and our vice-consul at
Acre, who had come with us from Beirut. We were in danger of perishing, and
were only rescued by the Arab fishermen who came to our assistance. They are
bold and dexterous swimmers, as much at home in the water as the natives of the
Sandwich Islands. The increasing surf
preventing further communication with the ship, we proceeded first to Haifa and
thence to the convent for a bed, for in the miserable village there
The road to the convent led for a short distance
through an extensive olive orchard, and thence up the mountain by a gentle
ascent. On the plain, and the mountain side, were flowers and fragrant shrubs,
-the asphodel, the pheasant's eye, and Egyptian clover. The
convent stands on the bold brow of a promontory, the terminus of a mountain
range 1200 feet high, bounding the vale of Esdraelon on the
south-west. The view from the summit is fine. Beneath is a
narrow but luxuriant plain, upon which, it is said, once stood the city of Porphyraea.* Sweeping
inland, north and south, from Apollonia in one direction to Tyre in another,
with Acre in the near perspective, are the hills of Samaria and Galilee,
enclosing the lovely vale of Sharon and the great battle-field of nations, the
valley of Esdraelon; while to the west lies the broad expanse of the
Mediterranean. But the eye of faith viewed a more interesting
and impressive sight; for it was here, perhaps upon the very spot where I
stood, that Elijah built his altar, and "the fire of the Lord fell and
consumed the burnt sacrifice, and the wood and the stones and the dust, and
licked up the water that was in the trench." We were cordially received by the monks, "Bon
frere Charles" in especial, who, as it was Lent, regaled us with vegetable
soup and fish. Within the convent is the celebrated grotto of
Elias,
We procured here some of
the flint nodules resembling chalcedony, in the form of fruit,--petrified, it
is said, by a curse of the prophet, who was refused some of it by the
proprietor when he was faint and weary. They are nothing more than round hollow
pieces of flint, with smooth and coloured protuberances within. Friday, March 31. Wind
changed off shore with a smooth sea. Sent to Acre for horses, and hoisted out
the two " Fannies" and landed them with our effects.
Pitched our tents for the first time, upon the beach, without the We were surrounded by a
crowd of curious Arabs, of
We had two tents made of
American canvass. They were circular, so constructed that the
boats' masts answered as tent-poles to them. The officers
occupied the small and the men the large one. We had each,
officers and men, a piece of India-rubber cloth, two yards long, to sleep on, and
a blanket or comforter to cover us. Night came, and the
sentries were posted. The stars were exceedingly brilliant;
the air clear and cool - almost too cool, -and the surf beat in melancholy
cadence, interrupted only by the distant cry of jackals in the
mountains. These, I suppose, are the foxes whose tails were
tied together by Sampson. Saturday, April 1. A day
of tribulation. A little past midnight, the tinkling of bells
announced the arrival of our horses, followed soon after by a screaming conversation
in Arabic between the dragoman (interpreter) within our tent and the chief of
the muleteers outside. Our sleeping was excessively
uncomfortable, - what from the cold, and the stones on the ground, and the
novelty, we scarce slept a wink. Some began to think that it
was not a " party of pleasure," as an illiberal print had termed it. With the first ray of
light, we saw that our Arab steeds were most miserable galled jades, and upon
trial entirely unused to draught. It was ludicrous to see how loosely the
harness we had brought hung about
"The river
of Kishon swept them away That ancient river, -the river of Kishon." It was to the
brink of this brook that the 450 prophets of Baal were brought from Mount
Carmel, and put to death by order of Elijah. The half-frightened horses dashed
into the stream, which they crossed without difficulty, it being only about
eighteen inches deep, and as many yards across. Onward we went, occasionally
coming to a dead halt, rendering necessary, renewed applications of the
cudgel,-for lighter instruments of persuasion were of no avail. The road ran along
the beach, -in fact, the beach was the road, curving gently towards the north,
and eventually to the west. Passing the wrecks of several
vessels, buried
Akka derived its name from the church of St. Jean
d'Acre. It has been esteemed the key of all Syria; and Napoleon, when he saw
it, exclaimed, "On that little town hangs the destiny of the
East." It checked him in his victorious career, and he,
who had never
known a reverse, recoiled before it. An English fleet, a few
years since, however, proved that it was not impregnable, and its walls and
bastions are yet in a dilapidated state, but they are now being thoroughly
repaired and strengthened. It being necessary to see the consul and the
governor, I preceded the party to the town. At the outer gate of this fortified
stronghold, two or three soldiers were standing, and there was a guard-room
just within it. I made my way, as well as I could, to the
house of our consul, to which the stars and stripes occasionally beckoned me,
as, from time to time, I caught a glimpse of them, floating above a lofty turret. Riding through a mass of masonry, with every
conceivable name in the science of fortification,--through tortuous, ill-paved streets,
and narrow bazaars and covered ways, I found myself at the bottom of a "cul-de-sac." Dismounting before a low
gateway, flanked by a gallery of blank walls, ascending a stone stairway, and
passing through courts and ruined buildings, I reached the consul's house, and
was in a few moments seated on his divan.
A short distance within
the gate was a narrow bazaar, roughly paved, about two hundred yards in length,
with small open shops, or booths, on each side. They only
exhibited the common necessaries of life for sale. A short
distance farther, opposite to the inner wall, was a line of workshops, mostly
occupied by shoemakers. These, with a few feluccas in the
harbour, presented the only indications of commerce. In the walls of our
consul's castellated bomb-proof house several shot were lodged; and in the
court I stumbled over broken bomb-shells and fragments of masonry. From the
flat terrace roof we looked down upon numberless neighbours: women with golden
hair-ornaments and ragged trousers, for they were too large to be called
pantalettes. There was, on an adjoining terrace, a young girl with a glorious
profusion of curling tresses, which, from beneath a golden net-work on her
head, fell gracefully down upon her dumpy form. Besides a
boddice, or spencer, she wore a short pelisse and full trousers, which, to say
the least, were rather the worse for wear. I should have
admired the dark, wild-looking eye and the luxuriant hair, had it not been
whispered to me that in the morning her beautiful head was seen undergoing a
The consul having prepared himself, we went forth
to seek the governor, who, with his suite, had gone outside the walls. There
were few people in the streets, but I noticed that the turban was more
generally worn than in Beirut, Smyrna, or
Constantinople. Civilization has scarce landed upon these
shores; and in Syria, we may look for more unadulterated specimens of the
Muslim character than in the capital of the empire. We found the governor just without the gate, seated
in the most democratic manner, against the side of a thatched hut, a café, I
believe. He received us courteously, and we were immediately
provided with seats. It was a singular place of audience, and
contrasted strangely with the sparkling gem upon the finger of the governor,
the amber mouth-piece of his chibouque encircled with diamonds, and the rich
dresses and jewel-hilted swords of some of his officers: but I liked it; there
was no pretension or parade, and it looked like business; moreover, it had a
republican air about it that was gratifying. In this public place, the parley was held, and the
horses that he had furnished were abused in unmeasured terms. His officers and
ourselves were seated upon stools and benches; the attendants were in front,
and the rabble stood around and listened to the talk. Sa'id Bey, the governor, is about forty-five years
of age. He is a Syrian by birth, an Egyptian by descent, and almost a mulatto
in complexion. He was dressed in plain blue pantaloons and a long blue surtout,
and wore a black beard and the red tarbouch. His countenance
indicated cunning, if not treachery. The crowd seemed to be on
such familiar terms with their superiors as would have been edifying to the
citizens of some of our own states at home.
Assuming a high stand, I
told him that we were there not as common travellers, but sent by a great
country, and with the sanction of his own government: -that I called upon him
to provide us with the means of transportation, for which we would pay
liberally, but not extravagantly. That his own sovereign had expressed an
interest in our labours, and if we were not assisted, I would take good care
that the odium of failure should rest upon the shoulders of Sa’id Bey, governor
of Acre. By this time a great concourse of people had gathered around, and he
said that he would see what could be done, and let me know in the course of the
evening. The " Supply" had in the mean
time weighed anchor, and stood close in shore to land the provisions and things
sent back in the morning. The boats of the expedition had also arrived, as well
as the trucks drawn round the beach. The governor and his officers came to look
at them, followed by nearly the whole population of the
town. Such a mob! such clamour and
confusion! I requested the governor to employ the police to
clear a place for us to pitch our tents upon the beach. He did
so immediately, but it was of no avail; for the crowd, driven
Finding it utterly impossible to land our effects
and encamp in this place, we returned and pitched our tents on the southern
bank of the Belus. But even here the crowd followed us, evincing a curiosity
only to be equalled by our own brethren of the eastern
states. Since the authorities could not or would not protect
us, we determined to take the law into our own hands and protect ourselves, and
accordingly posted sentinels with fixed bayonets to keep off the
crowd. Jack did it effectually, and the flanks of two or three
bore witness to the "capable impressure" of the pointed steel; after
which we were no more molested. We then hauled the boats up to
a small green spot beside the river, and a short distance from the
sea. Behind us was the great plain of Acre. While thus
engaged, some Arab fellahin (peasants) passed us, their appearance wild, and
their complexions of the negro tint. With conflicting emotions we saw the " Supply,"
under all sail, stand out to sea. Shall any of us live to
tread again her clean, familiar deck? What matters
it! We are in the hands of. God, and, fall early, or fall
late, we fall only with his consent. Late in the afternoon, I received an invitation
from Sa’id Bey to come to the palace. Ascending a broad flight of steps, and
crossing a large paved court, I was
And wax when with the fair." Just as we were seated, an old marabout entered the
room, and, without saluting any one, squatted upon the floor and commenced
chanting verses from the Koran. He had a faded brown cloak drawn around him,
and a dingy, conical felt hat, such as is worn by the dervishes, upon his head.
His whole person and attire were exceedingly filthy, and his countenance
unprepossessing in the extreme. The company sat in silence while he continued
to chant verse after verse in a louder and yet louder tone. At
length the governor asked the cause of the interruption, but received no
answer; save, that the
At length the marabout
paused for want of breath, and the governor repeated his former question. This
time there was a reply, and a very intelligible one. He wanted
charity. A sum of money was directed to be given to him, and
he took his departure. Surely this is a singular
country! Such an importunate mode of begging I never saw
before, although I have been in Sicily. I relate the circumstance, with no
farther comment, exactly as it occurred. When we were again quiet,
the governor stated that since he had parted with me he had received the most
alarming intelligence of the hostile spirit of the Arab tribes bordering on the
Jordan, and pointed to the savage chief as his authority. He named him 'Akil
Aga el Hasseé a great border sheikh of the Arabs. The governor proceeded to say
that the "most excellent sheikh" had just come in from the Ghor,
where the tribes were up in arms, at war among themselves, and pillaging and
maltreating all who fell into their hands. He was, therefore, of opinion that
we could not proceed in safety with less than a hundred soldiers to guard us; and said that if I would agree to pay twenty
thousand piastres (about eight hundred dollars), he would procure means for the
transportation of the boats, and guaranty us from molestation. He could not look me in
the face when he made this proposition, and it immediately occurred to me that
the Bedawin sheikh had been brought in as a bugbear to in-
The discussion lasted for
some time, the governor, the cadi, the sheikh, and others, whose names and rank
I did not know, urging me to accept the offer. This I positively declined,
stating that I was not authorized, and if I were would scorn to buy protection:
that if draught horses could be procured or oxen furnished, I would pay fairly
for them and for a few soldiers to act as scouts; but that we were well armed
and able to protect ourselves. Finally, the governor
finding that I would not embrace his terms, although he mitigated his demand,
urged me to abandon the enterprise. To this I replied that we were ordered to
explore the Dead Sea, and were determined to obey. He then advised me, with
much earnestness, to go by the way of Jerusalem. As he was too ignorant to
understand the geographical difficulties of that route, I merely answered that
we had set our faces towards the Sea of Galilee, and were not disposed to look
back. The sheikh here said that
the Bedawin of the Ghor would eat us up. My, reply was that they would find us
difficult of digestion; but as he might have some influence with the tribes, I
added that we would much prefer going peaceably, paying fairly for all services
rendered and provisions supplied; but go at all hazards we were resolutely
determined. Here the conference ended, it having been prolonged by the
necessity of conversing through an interpreter, which had, however, this
advantage, that it gave me full time to take notes. Without the court I
overtook the sheikh, who had preceded me, and asked him many questions about
the tribes of the Jordan. In the course of the conversation showed my sword and
revolver -- the former with pistol
It was now near nightfall
and the gates were closed I therefore accompanied our consul to his house for
refreshment and a bed, for I had eaten nothing since early in the morning. It
was a great disappointment to me to be separated from the camp; for, apart from
the wish to participate in its hardships, I was anxious to consult with Mr.
Dale, who had cheered me throughout the day by his zealous co-operation. On reaching the consul's,
I was told that some American travellers from Nazareth had called to see me in
my absence, and were to be found at the Franciscan Convent. Thither, I
immediately hastened, anxious alike to greet a countryman, and to gather
information, for Nazareth was nearly in our contemplated line of route. They proved to be Major
Smith, of the United States' Engineers, an esteemed acquaintance, and Mr.
Sargent, of New York, together with an English gentleman. Their account
confirmed the rumour of the disturbed state of the country, and they had
themselves been attacked two nights previous, at the foot of Mount Tabor. I can give a very
inadequate idea of my feelings. To From all the information
I could procure of the Arab character, I had arrived at the conclusion, that it
would tend more to gain their good-will if we threw ourselves among them
without an escort, than if we were accompanied by a strong armed force. In my
first interview with Sa'id Bey, therefore, I only asked for ten horsemen, to
act as videttes, which, under the impression that they would be insufficient,
he so long hesitated to grant, that I withdrew the application, and resolved to
proceed without them. He afterwards pressed me to take them,
and, calling upon me at the consul's, offered to furnish them free of cost; but
I was steadfast in refusal. The attack upon our
countrymen, however, indicated danger of collision at the very outset, and I
determined to be prepared for it. On leaving the
"Supply," I had placed a sum of money in charge of
Lieutenant-Commanding Pennock, with the request, that he would, in person,
deliver it to H. B. M. Consul at Jerusalem. Partly for that purpose, and in
part to make some simultaneous barometrical observations, he had sailed for
Jaffa, which is about thirty miles distant from the Holy
City. To him, therefore, I despatched a messenger, asking him
to call upon the Pasha, and request a small body of soldiers to be sent to meet
us at Tiberias, or on the Jordan. This precaution taken, my mind was at ease,
and, indeed, I was half ashamed of
In the camp, the day passed quietly. At one time,
there was a perfect fete around it, - pedlers, fruitsellers, and a musician
with a bagpipe, who seemed to sing extemporaneously, like the Bulgarian, at San
Stefano. At length, the crowd becoming troublesome, a space was cleared around
the encampment, and lines of demarcation drawn. Crosses were then made at the
corners, which, from some superstitious feeling, the people were afraid to
pass. In the evening, at the
consul's, we received many visitors, scarce any three of whom were seated, or
rather squatted, in the same attitude. There is no part of the world I have
ever visited, where the lines of social distinction are more strictly drawn
than here. In the present instance, the highest in rank were
squatted, à la Turque, with their heels beneath them, upon the divan. The next
in grade were a little more upright, in a half kneeling attitude; the third,
between a sitting posture and a genuflexion, knelt with one leg, while they sat
upon the other; and the fourth, and lowest I saw, knelt obsequiously, as if at
their devotions. It was amusing to see the shifting of postures on the entrance
of a visitor of a higher rank than any present; -when the squatters, drawing
themselves up, assumed a more reverential attitude, and they who had been
supported on one knee, found it necessary to rest upon two. I was particularly struck
with these evolutions, on the entrance of a fine old man, an Arab nobleman, called
Sherif Hazzâ of Mecca, the thirty-third lineal descendant of the Prophet. He
was about fifty years of age, of a dark Egyptian complexion, small stature, and
intelligent features. His father and elder brother had been
sherifs, or governors of Mecca until the latter was deposed by Me-
Sooner even than, in my impatience, I had
anticipated, he returned and accepted the invitation, shaming my previous fears
of imposition by saying that he left the remuneration of his services entirely
to my own appraisement. He also brought a message from 'Akil, the
This Sa'id Bey is an instance of the vicissitudes
of fortune in the Ottoman empire. Holding an office under Ibrahim Pasha, when
the Egyptians were in possession of the country, he was detected in
malpractices; and at the restoration of Acre to the Turks, was found in chains,
condemned to labour for life. He now walks as master through
the streets which he formerly swept. When the company had retired, the consul,
"on hospitable cares intent," being a bachelor, superintended in
person the preparation of my bed. Among other things, he had
spread upon it a silk sheet, soft and fine enough to deck the artificial figure
of a city belle, and sufficiently large for the ensign of a sloop-of-war. Although the couch was luxurious, the balm of
refreshing sleep was long denied, and for hours I laid awake and restless, for
I was not alone-the fleas were multitudinous and remorseless. There seemed to be no alternative but to take the
boats apart and transport them across in sections, unless camels could be made
to draw in harness, and I determined to try the experiment. During the night, I
suffered dreadfully from the nightmare, and the incubus was a camel. Sunday, April 2. In the afternoon, when the
religious exercises of the day were over, the experiment of substituting camels
for draught horses was tried and proved successful; and my heart throbbed with gratitude as the huge animals, three to each,
marched off with the trucks, the boats upon them, with perfect ease. The harness, all too short, presented a fit-out
more gro-
The first attempt to draw
the trucks by camels was a novel sight, witnessed by an eager crowd of people.
The successful result taught them the existence of an unknown accomplishment in
that patient and powerful animal, which they had before thought fit only to
plod along with its heavy load upon its back. The qualities of the
camel, uncouth and clumsy as he is, are scarcely appreciated in the East, or he
would be more carefully tended. It is a matter of surprise that the Romans
never employed them. Porus used them against Alexander, and the Parthians
against Crassus; but, I believe, as far as history tells, the Romans never
employed them in warfare, nor in any manner as means of transportation. Monday, April 3. We were
moving betimes, packing up and waiting for the camels to transport our baggage,
the boats having gone ahead. After many vexatious delays, made a start at 2.30
P. M., but soon after two of the camels breaking down, we were compelled to
camp again. While Mr. Dale was getting the camp in order, I rode out into the
plain after the boats and a part of the caravan which had gone ahead with the
bedding. About five miles from town I overtook them and turned
them back. As the sun sank beneath the Mediterranean, which lay boundless as
the view to the west, the mountains and the plain presented a singular
appearance. At times, from the
mountains to the sea the land was entirely concealed by mist, which condensing
as the heat
Here and there, scattered
upon the plain, were conical-shaped green tents, with tethered horses feeding
near them; some of the last, belonging to the Pasha, were beautiful Arabians,
exceedingly quick and graceful in their movements. Just without the town we met
the Bedawin sheikh'Akil, who handed me a letter sent by express from our consul
at Beirut. The sheikh, on his way to Abelin, one of his villages, was kind
enough to be the bearer of the letter. It contained the required firman from
the Pasha of Damascus. 'Akil was dressed in the same scarlet cloak, flowing
white trowsers, and red tarbouch and boots as in the council two days
previous. He was mounted on a spirited mare, and long after
our parting I could see his scarlet cloak streaming in the wind as he scoured
across the plain. We camped on the same
spot we had occupied the two preceding days, and were soothed with the promise
of having a sufficient number of camels in the morning. The sherif paid us a
visit and promised to join us on the route, as he feared that Sa’id Bey would
detain him if he heard of our engagement. The son of Dr. Anderson had come with
us from Beirut, and proposed remaining at Acre until he heard from his father,
and with him I left the following letter for the Doctor, in the event of our
not meeting for some time: ”DEAR SIR: - Having at your request
associated you in the expedition under my command, with the express
“The geological structure and physical phenomena of the
shores of the Dead Sea and the terraces of the Jordan, and if time permit, of
the ranges of the Lebanon also, constitute in their investigation one of the
most interesting and important objects of the expedition. “The volcanic phenomena of the Dead Sea require the
strictest investigation, that in connexion with a line of soundings by the
surveying party, the presumed fault running north and south through it may be
verified or disproved. " It is desirable to obtain mineralogical
specimens, to ascertain if the surrounding regions be volcanic, and for the
future purpose of comparing them with similar specimens from Vesuvius or some
modern active volcano, in order to ascertain whether or not modern volcanic
productions differ from more ancient ones. "The nature of the
soil, on the eastern shore especially, as formed by disintegration, and the
nature of the vegetation as connected with it, are points of useful enquiry. “The soil in which grapes
of such extraordinary size are said to grow should be collected for analysis,
to ascertain if the chemical composition has any influence on the size of the
fruit. "In a minute
examination for volcanic characters, parts of the eastern coast maybe found to
consist of basaltic rocks, with a crystalline structure, perpendicular to the
surface, and disintegrating in such a manner as to present perpendicular
cliffs. Trap rocks may be found 138
LETTER TO DR. ANDERSON. cropping out
through other rocks, more or less homogenous in their appearance, with small
disseminated crystals sometimes magnetic.
The dark basaltic rock is (said to be) frequent near Tiberias. Rocks containing fossils claim particular
attention, and as many varieties of fossils should be collected as possible. “Specimens of mud
from various parts of the sea, river and lake should be collected and placed in
air-tight vessels. “It is said that
the mountains of the west coast consist principally of a bituminous limestone,
which inflames, smokes, and is foetid.*
Lumps of sulphur as large as a walnut have been found at Ain el
Feshkha. On the west coast small
fragments of lint, flesh red and brown, have also been found; and on the banks
of the Jordan, nearly opposite Jericho, rolled pebbles of white carbonate of
lime with thin veins of quartz. “Although not
immediately within your province, I invite your attention to Cochlae and
Conchae. Specimens of any species of
crustacaea, even the most minute are very desirable. “It is most
important to ascertain whether birds live on the shores, or fish within the
depths, of the Dead Sea; and not less, to not carefully every stream and
fissure, their direction and their depth, and to ascertain, if possible,
whether the former are perpetual, or only temporary, torrents. “It is not my
intention to limit your inquiries, or to pretend to instruct you, on a subject
wherein yu are so much better informed than myself; but to give you an idea of
the general range of investigation, deemed most advisable to attain a
satisfactory result. “H. J. ANDERSON,
M. D.” _______________ *Robinson and
Smith
As we were starting, Sa’id Bey had the effrontery
to send to me for a letter, stating that he had rendered all the services I had
required. I sent him word in reply, that he had done nothing to assist us; and
that of his gross attempt at extortion, I had apprised our government at home,
our minister at Constantinople, and his superior, the Mushir, at Beirut. Following the beach to within two hundred yards of
the town, we turned off to the east, and skirted a hill, whence, on the left,
we saw an aqueduct, and the garden of Abdallah Pasha, - a grove in the midst of
a verdant, but treeless plain. Pursuing the same route taken the evening
before, we crossed the great plain of Acre, enamelled with flowers, and struck
into a rolling country of gentle undulations. Besides the
profusion of flowers, a stunted tree was here and there presented . (139)
The steep rugged path had
never before been trodden by any other than an Arab horse; and but that the one
upon which I rode was singularly surefooted, he would have often stumbled and dislodged
me, for I could not guide him, so much were my senses engrossed by the
extraordinary variety, fragrance, and beauty of innumerable plants and flowers.
The village, perched upon
the loftiest peak, commands ___________
After having been
detained in an open court until I became impatient, I was ushered into a large
room, open in front, with a mud floor and smoke-stained rafters, covered with
twigs. A collection of smouldering embers was in the centre, stuck into which,
a small and exceedingly dirty brass coffee-pot stood simmering; and, seated at
the farther end, a short distance from it, were the Sherif, 'Akil, and a number
of Arabs, armed to the teeth. I had parted with the first, at a late hour the
previous evening, when he started for Haifa, ten miles in another direction;
and how he could have come there, puzzled me. For some moments, scarce
a word was said; and, from inability to speak the language, I could not break
the awkward silence, having left the interpreter with the train; where his
services were necessary. There were some twelve or
fifteen present. Look where I would, their keen black eyes were riveted upon
me; and wherever I turned my eyes, theirs immediately followed the same
direction. I turned to Sherif, in the hope that he would say something, which
would have been cheering, although I could not understand his language; but,
lost in thought, he seemed to be studying the geological structure of the
lighted coal upon the bowl of his narghilé. To 'Akil I made a
friendly sign of recognition,
I do not know when I have so earnestly longed for
a cup of coffee; for, apart from the danger inferred to myself, its not being
tendered, seemed an ominous sign for the expedition. The whole business looked
like a snare. While these thoughts were passing through my mind,
a few words had been exchanged between the leaders and their followers, mostly
brief questions and monosyllabic replies, the last almost invariably the Arabic
negative, "Lah!" Presently one of the questions elicited quite a
warm discussion, during which I sat entirely unnoticed, except that
occasionally one of the speakers looked towards me, when his example was
followed by the whole assembly. There was an evident air of constraint; I had
been received with bare civility, and they seemed undecided what measures to
pursue. There were evidently conflicting opinions. Fretted with impatience, and perhaps more nervous
than I should have been, without thinking, I looked at my watch. There was an
instant pause in the conversation, and while Sherif asked to see it, they all
crowded eagerly round. It was no curiosity to him, but most of
those present examined it earnestly, like so many wild Indians for the first
time beholding a mirror. I took as much time as possible to
exhibit the works, and when they would look no longer, drew my sword, and glad
to feel it in my grasp, pointed out to them the peculiar construction of the
handle. They examined it as closely as they could, for, unlike
the watch, I would not part with it;
I cannot venture to say
that there was an intention to rob me, for, despite appearances, I could hardly
think so. It may be that the omission of the chibouque and coffee made an undue
impression on me, and that my ignorance of Arab habits did the rest. Perhaps,
too, I was rendered morbidly suspicious by the consciousness of having a large
sum of money about me. If a robbery were contemplated, I came upon them,
perhaps, before their plans were mature; or the arrival of Sherif, who could
have preceded me but a short time, might have disconcerted
them. At all events, I now felt safe; for the gaping mouth of
the blunderbuss and the sheen of the carbines borne by my companions proved
ample protectors. Notwithstanding the awkwardness
of our recent position towards each other, I felt no hesitation in entering
into an agreement with 'Akil on the same terms as with the Sherif. Our language
was that of signs, fully understood by both parties. According to the Arab
code of morals, 'Akil would have been perfectly justified in robbing me prior
to a contract; but to do so afterwards would be the height of dishonour. From
subsequent conversations with him, I was enabled, perhaps, to trace the cause
of my cool reception. There was an emissary of Sa'id Bey present, he said, and
he wished to mask his intention of joining us. On leaving Acre, our course was
first due east to
I rejoined the caravan as it passed by Abelin, leaving our
allies to follow. They were to bring ten spears, and
formidable ones they proved to be. The road becoming difficult
for the carriages, we moved slowly, and our Arab scouts soon overtook us. They
had all assumed the garb of the desert, and each, with a flowing dark aba
(cloak) on, and the yellow koofeeyeh upon his head, bound round with a cord of
camel's hair, dyed black; and bearing a spear eighteen feet in length, some of
them tufted with ostrich feathers, looked the wild and savage warrior. In the middle of Wady en Nafakh (Blowing Valley), we came to
a halt, three miles from Abelin. It was yet early, 3 P. M.; but the great
regulator of every thing connected with life and motion in the East is
water. We had passed a well about a mile back, and between us
and the next one was a narrow defile, presenting great obstructions to the
passage of the boats. We therefore pitched our tents upon a
gently sloping esplanade, and our Bedawin friends were over-against us. It was a picturesque spot; on the left of our tents, which
faced the south, were the trucks with the two boats, forming a kind of
entrenchment; behind these were about thirty camels and all our horses. From
the boats, and in front of our white tents, the American flag was flying; and
just beyond, an officer and two sailors, with carbines, had mounted guard, with
the loaded blunderbuss between them. The tent of our allies
was a blue one; and the horses tethered near, and tufted spears in front, together
with their striking costume, varied and enlivened the scene. We this day passed
through the narrow tract on the coast of Syria, which was never subdued by the
Israelites, and through the narrowest part of the land of the tribe of Asser
into that of Zebulon, where we then were. At first, “Night threw her sable mantle o'er the earth, And pinned it with a star;" but, by degrees, the
whole galaxy came forth, and twinkled upon the scene. It was a brilliant night,
but we had reason to consider that the place was appropriately named. About
midnight, the wind blew with great violence, and we were compelled to turn out,
and assist the officer of the watch in securing the instruments. Wednesday, April 5. We were early on the move; the
sun was rising beautifully over the eastern hills; the camels were straying
about upon their slopes, and the flags and ostrich feathers were drooping with
the mist: Called all hands, breakfasted, struck tents, hitched camels, and
started at 8.20 A. M. The carriages, with the boats, were drawn by three camels
each, two abreast and one as leader, with twelve spare ones, to relieve every
half hour. Our party numbered sixteen in all, including
dragoman and cook, with eleven camels, laden with baggage, tents, instruments,
&c; and fifteen Bedawin, all
Our course was at first east
for a quarter of a mile, and then by a short turn to S. E., down a narrow
gorge. Through this we found it impossible to drag the boats; and therefore,
deploying to the left, we drew them to the summit of an overhanging hill, and
there, taking the camels out, lowered them down by hand. It was an arduous and,
at times, a seemingly impracticable undertaking, but by perseverance we
succeeded. Passing along this
ravine, in a south-easterly direction, for three-quarters of a mile, the boats
rattling and tumbling along, drawn by the powerful camel trains, we came, at
9.30, upon a branch of the great plain of Buttauf. The metal boats, with the
flags flying, mounted on carriages drawn by huge camels, ourselves, the mounted
sailors in single file, the loaded camels, the sherif and the sheikh, with
their tufted spears and followers, presented a glorious
sight. It looked like a triumphal march. The sun was curtained,
but not screened, from the sight by the ascending vapour, and the soft wind was
wooing nature to assume her green and fragrant livery. The young grain,
vivified by the heat, sprang up in prolific growth, and carpeted the earth with
its refreshing verdure. The green turf of the uncultivated patches of the
plain, and the verdant slopes of the hills, were literally enamelled with the
white and crimson aster, the pale asphodel, the scarlet anemone, the blue and
purple convolvulus, the cyclaemen, with flowers so much resembling the
eglantine rose, and many others of brilliant hues and fragrant odours; while,
interspersed here and there upon the hill-sides, were clumps of trees, on the
branches of which the birds were singing, in the soft light of an early spring
morning,-enjoying, like ourselves, the balmy air and smiling landscape. It was
an exquisite
A soul in all things, and
that soul is God?”
Winding around a green hill, tufted with oak, we came; at
10.15, to Khan