UNITED
STATES' EXPEDITION
TO
THE
RIVER JORDAN
AND
THE
DEAD
SEA,
BY
W.
F. LYNCH, U. S. N.,
COMMANDER
OF THE EXPEDITION,
WITH
MAPS
AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
A
NEW AND CORRECTED EDITION.
PHILADELPHIA:
LEA AND
BLANCHARD, 1849.
RESPECTFULLY
DEDICATED
TO
JOHN
Y. MASON,
EX-SECRETARY
OF THE NAVY,
AS
A
SLIGHT TRIBUTE TO HIS PRIVATE WORTH
AND
PUBLIC EXCELLENCE.
Entered,
according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1849,
in
the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Eastern
District of Pennsylvania.
PRINTED
BY T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS.
THE
object of the
Expedition, the narrative of which is here presented, was unknown to the
public, until a very short time prior to its departure from the United States,
when the indications were such as to induce me to apprehend that it was not
appreciated. Nevertheless, I had an abiding faith in the ultimate issue, which
cheered me on; for I felt that a liberal and enlightened community would not
long condemn an attempt to explore a distant river, and its wondrous reservoir,
the first, teeming with sacred associations, and the last, enveloped in a
mystery, which had defied all previous attempts to penetrate it.
As
soon as possible after our return, I handed in my official report, and, at the
same time, asked permission to publish a narrative or diary, of course embracing
much, necessarily elicited by visiting such interesting scenes, that would be
unfit for an official paper. To this application, I was induced by hearing of
the proposed publication of a Narrative of the Expedition, said to be by a
member of the party. The permission asked, was
granted
by the Hon. J. Y. Mason, Secretary of the Navy, with the remark, “I give this
assent with the more pleasure, because I do not think that you should be
anticipated by any other, who had not the responsibility of the
enterprise."
Feeling
that what may be said on the subject had better be rendered imperfectly by
myself than by another, I have been necessarily hurried; and the reader will decide
whether the narrative which follows was elaborately prepared, or written
"currente calamo."
To
E. Robinson, D. D., of the Union Theological Seminary, New York, I was indebted
for letters to his friends in Beirut, and for much information furnished from
his copious store. I have also to thank
Professor Haldeman, of Columbia, Pa., for some valuable suggestions, which I
adopted.
To
Mr. Stephens, of New York, the author of one of the most interesting books of
travels which our language can produce, I return, in this public manner, my
acknowledgments for a timely letter, written when the equipment of the
Expedition was under consideration.
While
I am responsible for everything here advanced, it is proper to say, that I have
occasionally used the notes of other members of the Expedition; and am
particularly indebted to Mr. Bedlow, who accompanied the land party down the
valley of the Jordan.
The
drawings are by Lieutenant Dale and Passed-Midshipman Aulick, -some of them
complete, and some
outline
sketches. To Messrs. Gilbert and Gihon, of this city, who
undertook the illustrations, I am indebted for the beautiful wood-engravings
which accompany the volume. They are all true to nature; each
scene was taken upon the spot it was intended to delineate, and every portrait
is a likeness.
The
maps were prepared by Mr. F. D. Stuart, of Washington, from copies furnished
by. Mr. Aulick, from the labours of Mr. Dale and himself.
Through
fatigue, privation and sickness, the officers and men of the Expedition
acquitted themselves manfully; and the only drawback to our grateful
recollections is, that one who shared our labours has not been spared to
participate in the gratification of our return. Lieutenant Dale was an able and
accomplished officer, and, by his death, the profession has been shorn of one
of its proudest ornaments. His wife has since followed him to the grave; but,
in his name, he has left a rich inheritance to his children.
I
am wholly unskilled in author-craft, and have sought rather to convey correct
ideas, than to mould harmonious sentences. I send this forth, therefore, in
trepidation, yet with a confiding trust in that charitable construction which
the people of this country have never denied to any one who honestly does his best.
PHILADELPHIA,
MAY, 1819.
A
new edition of this work being called for, the author has made some slight
changes, and corrected several errors that were discovered in the first
impression.
July 8, 1849.
MAPS.
SKETCH-MAP
OF THE RIVER JORDAN .......................To face page 13
SKETCH-MAP OF THE DEAD SEA ....................................
268
SOURCE
OF THE JORDAN .................................. FRONTISPIECE.
CAMP
ON THE RIVER BELUS ........................... To face page 126
'AKIL AGA. ......................................................
128
SHERIF OF
MECCA................................................. 134
CARAVAN OF THE EXPEDITION
...................................... 146
TIBERIAS...........................................................
154
RUINED BRIDGE OF SEMAKH ........................................
176
JUM'AH ..........................................................
216
VIEW
ON THE JORDAN ............................................. 234
SHERIF MASA'D, EMIR
NASSIR, AND BENI SUKR SHEIKH ............... 244
PILGRIMS BATHING IN THE JORDAN..................................
262
SHORE OF THE DEAD SEA..........................................
276
AIN
JIDY......................................................... 290
PILLAR OF SALT ..................................................
308
A
TA'AMIRAH..................................................... 314
MUSTAFA THE COOK ...............................................
318
MASADA..........................................................
332
CHRISTIAN ARABS OF KERAK
....................................... 342
SHEIKH OF
MEZRA'A............................................... 346
WADY MOJEB.....................................................
368
GREEK ARCHBISHOP
................ ............................... 388
TOMB OF ABSALOM
................................................ 398
GARDEN OF
GETHSEMANE.................... ........................... 416
TOMBS IN THE VALLEY OF
JEHOSHAPHAT ............................ 418
GREEK PRIEST AT
NAZARETH....................................... 462
FOUNTAIN OF
NAZARETH........................................... 464
GREAT SHEIKH OF THE 'ANAZEH
TRIBES............................. 494
BAALBEC
......................................................... 500
(ix)
OF
The
MEMBERS
OF THE EXPEDITION.
W.
F. LYNCH, Lieutenant-Commanding.
JOHN B. DALE, Lieutenant.
R. AULICK, Passed-Midshipman.
FRANCIS E. LYNCH,
Charged
Herbarium.
JOSEPH C. THOMAS, Master's Mate.
GEORGE OVERSTOCK, Seaman.
FRANCIS WILLIAMS,
CHARLES HOMER,
HUGH READ,
JOHN ROBINSON,
GILBERT LEE,
GEORGE LOCKWOOD,
CHARLES ALBERTSON,
HENRY LOVELAND,
HENRY BEDLOW, Esq., and HENRY J. ANDERSON, M. D., were associated with the Expedition as volunteers,
after its original organization, -the first at Constantinople, and the other at
Beirut. More zealous, efficient, and honourable associates could not have been
desired. . They were ever in the right place, bearing their full share of
watching and privation. To the skill of Mr. Bedlow, the wounded seaman was
indebted for the preservation of his life; and words are inadequate to express
how in sickness, forgetful of himself, he devoted all his efforts to the relief of his sick
companions.
INTRODUCTION.
APPLICATION to the Navy
Department-Favourable result-Vessel designated-Preparations-Metallic
boats-Selection of men-Officers-Orders for departure-Instructions for the
Expedition-Detention of the ship-Time employed in various
preparations-Water-bags-Boats, and the means of their
transportation........................ 13
CHAPTER
II.
FROM
NEW YORK TO PORT MAHON.
Sail from New York-Pleasing anticipations-Currents and
gales-The Azores-Trafalgar-Strait of Gibraltar-The Mediterranean-St. Roque
-Algesiras-View of
Gibraltar-Aspect of the town-Defences-Character of the population-Fort St.
Philip-A rash vow-Retrospect -A disappointment-Small-pox on
board-Port Mahon-Its
disadvantages-Balearic Isles-Celtic Ruins
.............................. 16
CHAPTER
III.
FROM
PORT MAHON TO SMYRNA.
Departure
from Mahon-Arrival at Valetta-Pleasing incident-Leave-Malta-Enter the Egean Sea-View
of the shores of Greece-Reflections-Oriental scenes-Smyrna-Turkish women-Aspect
of Smyrna -Turkish cemeteries-Punishment of crime-Its necessity-Revolting
execution-Environs of Smyrna-Fertility of the soil-An excursion-A Turkish garden-Beautiful
scene-The Jannissaries............... 33
CHAPTER
IV.
FROM
SMYRNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
Embarkation
for Constantinople-Motley group-Morning devotions- Shores of Greece-The
Hellespont-Classic associations-Sestos- A fop on board-A Turkish
effendi-Dardanelles -A disappointment -Constantinople-Beautiful scene
-Tophana-Turkish ladies -Caiques-Harbour of Constantinople-Minarets-An American
resi
(xi)
dent-Improvements
in agriculture-Slavery in Turkey-The Negro race-The slave-market-Kind
reception-Excursion up the Bosphorus-Scenery-The Black Sea-Tomb of
Joshua-Superstition-Magnificent view-Probability of invasion by Russia-Servile
condition of the Turkish women-Blessings of Christianity
.................. 48
CHAPTER
V.
CONSTANTINOPLE,
AND VOYAGE TO SYRIA.
Visit
to the Sultan-Pipes and coffee-Disputed point of etiquette-Servility of the
officers-Presence of the Sultan-Sad reflections-Offer of a present-The American
minister-Visit to the mosques-The Hippodrome-Call of the Muezzins-Tomb of
Sultan Mahmoud-Turkish reforms-Subterranean cisterns-Bazaars-Bargaining-Women
in public-Visit of the Sultan to the mosque-His appearance-The barracks-The
seraglio-Hall of ambassadors-Armory-Stables-Cemeteries-Variety of
costumes-Environs of the city-Excursion up the Bosphorus-Barbarossa's
tomb-Cemetery of Scutari-Dancing dervishes-Necessity of religion-St.
Stefano-Visit Dr. Davis-Village dignitaries-Receive our firman-Embarkation-
Rejoin the "Supply" -Leave Smyrna-Gale -Scio-Riding on a rail-Ruins
of Ephesus -Ayasalouk-Church of St. John -"Bishop's Palace"-The river
Meander-Visit to the Governor-Visit returned-Greek fashionables -Seals
Nuova-Patmos-Cos-Lunar rainbow -Candia-Rhodes-Cyprus-Mountains of Lebanon
.................................. 71
CHAPTER
VI. FROM BEIRUT TO DEPARTURE FROM ST. JEAN D’ACRE.
Beirut-Visit
to the Pasha-Preparations-Peculiar costume-Departure -Sidon and Tyre-St. Jean
d'Acre-Mount Carmel-Dangerous landing-Extensive view-Convent of Mount
Carmel-Grotto of Elias-Boats landed and tents pitched-Thieving-First night
ashore-Arab horses-Brook Kishon-Akka-Visit to the American Consul-Appearance of
the town-A drawback to personal charms-Governor of Acre -A
conference-Difficulties-Arab curiosity-Audience at the palace -Singular mode of
begging-'Akil Aga-Attempt at extortion-Meeting with American
travellers-Exciting reports -Deliberations--Troublesome visitors -Etiquette
-Sherif of Mecca-Camels used for draught -Delays-Beautiful mirage-Letter to Dr.
Anderson......... 114
CHAPTER
VII.
FROM
ST. JEAN D’ACRE TO DEPARTURE FROM THE SEA OF GALILEE.
Disappointments-Effrontery
of Said Bey-Journey continued-Plain of Acre-Village of Abelin-Doubts and
mistrust-Character of the village
and
surrounding country-Inhospitable reception-Embarrassing position-Relief-Arab
morals-An escort-Blowing Valley-Picturesque views-Khan el Dielil-Castle of
Sefurieh-Nazareth-Reflections-Mode of dealing among the Arabs-Equestrian
exercises-Difficulties of the road -Turan-Mount Tabor-Meet Dr. Anderson-An Arab
Repast -Music -Lubieh-Character of the country-Magnificent scenery-The Sea of
Galilee-Thrilling emotions-Safed-Joseph's Well-.Tiberias-Reception-Visits from
and to the Governor-Administration of justice-Thraldom of the Jews-Chapel of
St. Peter-Jewish Synagogues-Habits and costume of the Jewish females-Letters
from Jerusalem-Firman from the Pasha-Express from Acre-Launch of the
boats-Profound emotion-Hot baths-Ruins of Tiberias-Productions of the
plain-Excursion on the lake-Genesareth-Mejdel, or Magdala-Fish-Discouraging
accounts of the Jordan-Filthy lodgings -Summary dealings-Preparations for the
Expedition-Visit from an ogre prince-Assignment of duties-Departure of the
land-party. .... 139
CHAPTER
VIII.
FROM
THE SEA OF GALILEE TO THE FALLS OF BUK'AH.
Departure
of the boats-Scenery of the lake-Enter the Jordan-Mount Hermon-Bridge of
Semakh-Dangerous situation of the boats-Character of the country-Arab
hospitality-Formidable rapids-Troublesome strangers-More rapids-Village of
Abeidiyeh-Falls and whirlpool of Buk'ah-Ruins of Delhemiyeh-Rejoined by the
land-party-Predatory habits of the Bedawin-Account furnished by the land-party
-Visit from Emir Nasser-Preparations for further progress-Night
encampment........................... ...................... 171
CHAPTER
IX.
FROM
THE FALLS OF BUK'AH TO THE FOURTH CAMPING-PLACE UPON THE JORDAN.
Daybreak
excursion-Profusion of flowers-Gadara-Loss of a boat-Passage of the
cascades-Imprudence-Descent of the fourth rapid-the River Yermak-View from a
hill-top-Another frightful rapid-Bridge of the Place of Meeting-Ruined
khan-Bedawin encampment-Continued succession of rapids-Excessive heat- A noble
Arab-Ruins of Gadara-Land of Issachar-Visit of Lieutenant Dale to Muhammed Pasha-Preparations
for defence-Perilous situation of the Fanny Mason-Escape-Peculiar formation of
the hills-Desert silence-Principal productions-Change of climate-Arab
camp-Commotion-Extraordinary windings of the river-Starting of the
caravan-Desolate aspect of the country-Heat and drought-A relief-Arab beauty-A
pastoral entertainment -A Turkish camp-An unwelcome escort-Arab tents-Voracity
of the Arabs-A false alarm ................. 196
CHAPTER
X.
FROM
THE FOURTH CAMP ON THE JORDAN TO THE FORD OF SCKA.
Start
anew-Wonder of the barbarians-Windings-Rapid current-Beautiful scenery-Wild
beasts-Birds-Management of the boats--Sandbanks and islands-Meeting with
'Akil-Perils of the voyage-Change of aspect-Eastern Mountains-The ogre prince
and his tribe-Geological features of the country-Prevailing
productions-Numerous islands-Fish and Birds-Wild Boars-Indications of
ruins-Precautions-Dangers of navigation-Ruins of Succoth-True character of the
camel-Route of the caravan-Fording the river-A Floral plain -Fresh difficulties
and dangers of the river-Abundance of the thistle -General description of the
country-Ford of Scka-Alarming intelligence-Exciting incident-Painful
desolation-Vegetation on the Jordan-The zukkum-Botanical specimens- Muhammedan
sects-Nocturnal anxiety-Arab fraternization-Description of the river-An Eastern
scene-Picturesque view-Mournful music -A singular minstrel-The Emir's
love-song.................................. 211
CHAPTER
XI.
FROM
FORD OF SCKA TO PILGRIM'S FORD.
Changes
in the vegetation-Suspicious neighbourhood-Fresh perils-Roman bridge-Arab
cookery-Mode of eating-Parting with the Emir -Aspect and productions of the
banks-Singular caverns-River Jabok -Scripture localities-An alarm-A present
received-More rapids-Cold -A night voyage-Disagreeable situation-El Meshra'a-A
sacred spot-Capture of a camel-Gazelles-Jericho-Glimpse of the Dead Sea and
mountains of Moab-Pilgrim's Ford-False alarm-Army of pilgrims-Bathing in the
Jordan-Happy meeting-Determination to proceed-Letter to the Secretary of the
Navy ...................... 245
CHAPTER
XII.
FROM
PILGRIM'S FORD TO FIRST CAMP ON THE DEAD SEA.
Further
progress-Character of the river-Enter the Dead Sea-Gale-Arab
tradition-Discouragements--Change of weather-Aspect of the shores-Night upon
the sea-Apprehensions--A landing-Pleasing incident-Ancient caverns-Fountain of
the Stride-Dismissal of our escort-Excursion-Painful Desolation- Arab honour -A
Bedawin feast-Leave-taking-Unwelcome music-Arabs at prayer-Evidences of
animated nature-Wretched appearance of proffered guides-Anxiety respecting the
boats-Their safe return-Soundings of the
Dead
Sea-Brook Kidron-Valley of Jehoshaphat-Cliff of Mukutta-Aspect of the shores of
the sea-Fresh-water stream-Preparations for moving southward
.............................................. 266
CHAPTER
XIII.
FR0M
AIN EL FESHKHAH TO AIN JIDY (ENGADDI).
Incidents
at starting-Delightful spot-Vegetable products-Shooting at ducks-Quiet night
scene-Intelligence from Dr. Anderson-Hills and ravines-Ruins-Remarkable
caves-Wilderness of Engaddi-Disappointment-Fruits and flowers-Evidences of
former cultivation-Cavernous mountain-Examination of the boats -Barometrical
and thermometrical observations-Scruples of the Arabs in regard to pork-Their
sobriety-Their habits of pilfering-Singular phenomenon-Arabs' opinion of the
cause of our visit-Commerce-Anxiety respecting provisions-Observe Easter
Sunday-Atmospheric phenomena-Wild boars brought in-Inaccessible caverns -A
welcome arrival-Currents in the Dead Sea-Magnificent sunset-An Arab
dance-Kindness of Mr. Finn, the British Consul-An unexpected luxury-Illness of
a seaman-Departure for the peninsula-Orders-Result of soundings-Description of
the Peninsula-Geological formation-Total absence of vegetation-Bushes incrusted
with salt-The River Arnon-Discouraging information-Arab improvisatore
.............. . . .. . . . 282
CHAPTER
XIV.
EXPEDITION
AROUND THE SOUTHERN SEA.
Start
upon a reconnoissance-The escort escorted-Currents-General observations-Cliff
of Sebbeh-Ruined fortification-Geological formation of the western
shore-Locusts-Moses' stone-Fears and anxieties of the Arabs-Ruins-Distressing
heat-A sirocco-Search for the ford -Landing at Usdum-Salt mountain-Pillar of
salt-Bitter melon-Dismiss the Arabs-Muddy shore-Heat of the soil-Difficulties
in taking observations-Complete desolation-Lofty hills-Remarkable
phenomenon-Burning hurricane-Ancient mill-stone-Painful effects of the
sirocco-Apprehensions of the Arabs-Physical conformation of the
tribes-Insupportable heat and thirst -A dreadful night-Abatement of the heat-An
alarm-A menaced attack-Zoar-Moab-Arabs' ideas respecting the boats-Verification
of Scripture narrative-Another sirocco-Scarcity of provisions-Usefulness of the
Arabs-Atmospheric refraction-Tendency to drowsiness-Return to Ain
Jidy-Intelligence from home-European news-Reflections-Dwellings in the rock
-Egerian fountain-Delicious bath-Luxurious repast-Singular appearance of the
sea-Density of the water-Experiments-Opinion of Galen -The osher, or apple of
Sodom-Character of the north winds ....... 301
CHAPTER
XV.
EXCURSION
TO MASADA.
Call
to prayer-Party despatched to Masada--Firing of minute-guns in honour of
Ex-President Adams-Remarkable changes in the aspect of the sea-Mode of reaping
and threshing among the Arabs-Their humanity to animals-Singular
illusion-Dangerous route-Ruins of
Masada........................................................ 328
CHAPTER
XVI.
FROM
CAMP TO THE CAPITAL OF MOAB.
The
day of rest-Effects of the climate upon health-Heat and desolation
-Irresistible drowsiness-Painful forebodings-Battle between two parties of
Arabs-Friendly invitation from the sheikh Abd 'Allah - Benefits of
bathing-Luxuriant vegetation-An Arab present-The fellahin
tribes-Mezra'a-Christian Arabs-Mode of salutation-Interesting
incident-Meteors-Damages to the boats-Preparation of specimens-Wild boar killed
-Density of the water in the bay-Generous conduct of the Arabs -Zoar-Ancient
ruins-Muslim and Christian sheikhs-Letter from 'Akil-Curiosity and superstition
of the Arabs-Songs of welcome and war-cries-Fears of treachery-Preparations for
defence-Inland excursion-Ancient fortification-Stupendous view-Appalling storm-
Wild character of the scenery-Inexpertness of the Arab marksmen-Symptoms of
cultivation-Entrance into Kerak-Filth and discomfort of the dwellings-Annoying
curiosity-A Christian priest and chapel-Magnificence of the castle-The cemetery-Ambitious
views of 'Akil-Discontent of the Muslim sheikh-Reasons for distrust-Oppression
of the Christians of Kerak-Their appeal to the Christians of America-Nocturnal
pleasures-Departure from Kerak-Insolence of the Arabs -Precautions -Muhammed
made prisoner-Arrival at the beach-Letter to 'Akil-Extortion practised upon
former travellers-Release of Muhammed-Embarkation .................. 335
CHAPTER
XVII.
CRUISE
ALONG THE ARABIAN SHORE.
The
river Arnon-Lofty cliffs-Singular ravine-Fears of sickness-Sketch of the
shores-Hot springs of Callirohoe-Delightful contrast-Privation and
discontent-Reflections ............................. 367
CHAPTER
XVIII.
FROM
THE OUTLET OF THE HOT SPRINGS OF CALLIROHOE TO AIN TURABEH.
Changes
of temperature -Disappointment-Machaerus-Deep soundings -Arrival at Ain
Turabeh-Return to the tents-Preparation for departure-Intense heat-Sirocco-The
bulbul-Increasing heat-The American flag floating over the sea-Analysis of the water-Result of our
labours-Hypotheses-Conviction of the truth of the Scripture narrative -Our last
night on the Dead Sea ................................. 372
CHAPTER
XIX.
FROM
THE DEAD SEA TO THE CONVENT OF MAR SABA.
Breaking
up of our camp-Regrets at leaving-Incidents of the journey-Night
encampment-Sherif tells his history-His character-Indebtedness of the
expedition to his fidelity-Monks of Mar Saba-Intelligence from the sick
seamen-Rapid change of climate-Dreary scenery-Holy associations-Specimens
forwarded-Painful alternations of temperature -The brook Kedron -Convent of Mar
Saba -Plants and flowers-The hyssop-Thunder-storm-Accident-Sabbath rest-The
coney .................................................... 381
CHAPTER
XX.
FROM
MAR SABA TO JERUSALEM.
Arab
attendants discharged-Labours renewed-Rocky cistern-The virtue of
necessity-Desolate aspect of the country-Fulfilment of prophecy-A
contrast-Painful reflections-Arab burial-ground-Tokens of cultivation-Arab
encampment-Tobacco-Pilgrims' road-The tribe Subeih-Curiosity of the
people-Troublesome interference-Attempted extortion-Pastoral scene-Highly
cultivated valley-Insecurity of the husbandman-An Arab's love-Mode of
courtship-Tales of jealousy and revenge-First view of Jerusalem-Impression
produced-Prominent objects-Character of the surrounding country-Well of
Job-Mount of offence-Pool of Siloam-Fountain of the Virgin -Village of
Siloam-Tombs of Absalom, Zacharias, and Jehoshaphat-Garden of Gethsemane-Valley of the Son of
Hinnorn-Traditionary spots-The Aceldama-Garden of Urias-Mount Zion-Hill of Evil
Counsel-Tents pitched-View from the encampment-Night under the walls of
Jerusalem.......................................... 389
CHAPTER
XXI.
JERUSALEM.
Cold
morning-Levelling proceeded with-Turkish military review-Tomb of the Empress
Helena-Scenery on the Jaffa road-Convent of the Holy Cross-Ludicrous
superstition-View of the city from this point-Description-Habitations of the
lepers-Boats sent to Jaffa-Recreation-Dr. Anderson leaves us-His praiseworthy
conduct-Extract from the diary of one of the officers-His first day in
Jerusalem-Via Dolorosa-Threatened attack-Mosque of Omar-Church of the Holy
Sepulchre-Motley groups-Mendicity-Pious zeal of the pilgrims-Description of the
interior of the Church of the Sepulchre-Ascent of the Mount of Olives-View from
the summit-Visit to the Garden of Gethsemane-The Golden Gate-Fountain of the
Virgin-Armenian convent-Splendid chapel-Character of the
visitors to Jerusalem - Traditionary fables-Sacred localities, their claims to
confidence-Reflections-Skepticism and blind credulity-Speculations upon the
future -Scripture predictions-Scientific labours continued-Description of
interesting localities-Magnificent view from
the Mount of -Olives--A coxcomb out of place-Kindness of the British
Consul-Scanty condition of our wardrobe-Expedients-Pool of Bethesda-Picturesque
scene-Varieties of costume-Singular marriage-procession-Pompous promenade of
the foreign consuls-Walls of the
city-.Muhammedan and Christian predictions-Visit to Bethlehem-Pool of
Gihon-Well of the Magi-Plaits of Rephaim-Convent of John the Baptist-Tomb of
Rachel-Wilderness of St. John-Valley of Elah-David's Well-Doubts as to the
birth-place of the Messiah-Calmet's views-Hill of the Annunciation-Ruth's
gleaning-ground-Lovely rural view-Treatment of pilgrims at
Jerusalem-Restrictions upon Christians-Products of the surrounding country.
.................................... 400
CHAPTER
XXII.
FROM
JERUSALEM TO JAFFA.
Preparations
for departure-Mizpeh-Affecting incident-Luxuriant vegetation-Bridge of the
Kulonieh-Picturesque scene -A cameleon caught-Restrictions upon the Arab
tribes-Craft met by craft-Acuteness of hearing of the Arabs-Peculiarities in
their physical conformation-The North American Indian-Results of education-The
Arab and Indian contrasted -Chateaubriand's opinion-Further progress-Character
of the country-Scriptural localities-Meeting with a lady traveller-Execrable
nature of the roads and accommodations-Kirjathjearim-Attempt to stop our
progress-An Arab robber sheikh-The olive tree-View of the
Mediterranean-Exhilaration of feeling-Vale
CONTENTS. xix
of
Sharon-Visit from a sheikh-Pastoral scene-Improvement in the roads-Village of
Latrun-Gaza-Kubab-Jackals-Singular mode of loading donkeys-Filthy habits of the
people-Ramleh-Traditions-Environs of the town-Yazur-Dervishes and
pilgrims-Fountain and mosque -Results of our operations in
levelling-Jaffa-Proposed harbour-Description of the town and its environs-Copt
village-Muhammedan superstitions-Throwing the djerid-Funeral
procession-SyroAmerican consul-Historical and mythological recollections of
JaffaTraditions -Population -Dinner at the Consul's house -A beautiful
woman-Etiquette-Kindness and courtesy of the consul-Bridal procession-Treatment
of Turkish wives-Laws of divorce-Universal thraldom of woman-Turkish laws of
inheritance-Seclusion of females in Syria-Dine at the house of the British
Consul-Singular costume of his lady-Agricultural improvements introduced by
him-Anecdotes-Supposed antediluvian ruin-Zodiacal lights-An estrangement-Boats
launched-The estrangement explained-Treatment of slaves ....... 426
CHAPTER
XXIII.
FROM
JAFFA TO NAZARETH.
Preparations-An
Arab's toilet-Departure of the land-party for St. Jean d'Acre-Embarkation -Detention-View
of Jaffa from the harbour-Start afresh-Meditations suggested by the
scenery-Arrival at St. Jean d’Acre-Route of the land-party-Ruins of
Apollonia-El Haram-Mukhalid-Es Skarki-Incidents-Ruins of Caesarea-The river
Zerka -Town of Tantura-Dreadful accident to one of the seamen-Castle of the
pilgrims-Mount Carmel-Village of Haifa-Visit from Sherif and 'Akil-Visit
returned-Arab entertainment-Start for Nazareth-Valley of the Winds-Annoying
accident-Arrival at Nazareth-Scene at the Fountain of the Virgin-Franciscan
convent-Traditions-Description of the town-Turkish tax-gatherer-Flowers
collected ...... 454
CHAPTER
XXIV.
FROM
NAZARETH TO THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN.
Start
for Mount Tabor-Plain of Esdraelon-Village of Nain-Ascent to the summit of
Mount Tabor-Ruins-Extensive view-Proceed onward -Ruined villages-Bid farewell
to the lower Jordan-Sea of Galilee-Ruins of Tarrichaea and Kades-Hot bath of
Emmaus-Tiberias-Disappointment-Fountain Bareideh-Magdala-Localities
passed-Ruins of Khan Minyeh-Fountain of the Fig-Supposed site of
Capernaum-Debouchure of the upper Jordan-Singular tents-Disturbed
rest-Bethsaida-Aspect of the country-View of Mount Hermon-Lake Merom-Fountain
of the Salt Works-The Golden Stream-Castle of
Honin-Roman
bridge-The Ancient Dan-Copious springs-Derivation of the word Jordan-Cesarea
Philippi--Ruins--River of Banias-Fabulous legends-Improvements in culture and
civilization-Town of Hasbeiya-Reception of visitors-Population of the
town-Variety of sects-Religious discord-Persecution of Protestants-Horrors of
Fanaticism-Visit from Prince Ali--Source of the Jordan-Magnificent
scene-Costume of the prince-Dress of the lower orders-Terrace cultivation-The
Druses-Their religious tenets-Their Costume-Visit to the valley of the Litany-Pits
of Bitumen-Women at the fountain-A trying transition
.................................... 464
CHAPTER
XXV.
FROM
THE SOURCE OF THE JORDAN TO DAMASCUS, BA'ALBEK, BEIRUT, AND HOME.
Joyful
intelligence-Start for Damascus-Druse villages-Disappearance of
cultivation-Character of the vegetation-Gorge of the Wistanee-Fine view-Cities
visible-Abortive attempt to ascertain the height of Mount
Hermon-Snow-Geological features-Mineral spring-Legend -Reappearance of
cultivation-Approach to Damascus-Beautiful gardens-Description of the
town-Meeting with an American-The flag of our country displayed-Pleasant
quarters -A cafe-Curious scene-Multitude of dogs-Turkish insolence-The
bazaars-A bath-Population-Entertained by American missionaries-A family history
-St. Paul's escape from Damascus-Antiquity of the town-Vicissitudes in its
history-Jewish dwellings-Dress of the Jews-Distinguished visitors-Leave the
city-Striking and beautiful view-Character of the surrounding country-Village
of Zebdany-Fine gardens -Traditions -Holy spring -A haughty Kurd prince-An Arab
drunkard-Plain of Buk'ah-Arab traditions-Ruins of Heliopolis-Lamartine's
description-Indisposition of some of the party-Enormous block of granite-Roman
mound-Arab fellahas-Night encampment -Increasing sickness-Self-reproaches-Route
continued-Numerous villages-Town of Zahley-Disheartening occurrences-Roman
road-Unexpected relief-Arrival at the sea-shore-Disappointment-Exhaustion and
increasing illness-Medical relief-Convalescence-Anniversary of our country's independence-Alarming
illness of Mr. Dale-Kindness of Rev. Mr. Smith and Dr. De Forest-Visit from Dr.
Vandyke-Case of unfeeling selfishness-Death of Mr. Dale-Preparations to convey
the remains to his native land-Painful accident and disappointment-Interment of
the body in the Frank cemetery-Embarkation-Tedious passage-Arrival at
Malta-Kindness of the American Consul-Quarantined-Arrival of the
Supply-Reembarkation-Uncourteous reception at Naples, Marseilles, and
Gibraltar-Arrival home-Conclusion-Analysis of Dead Sea Water ........... 481
TO
CHAPTER
I.
ON
the 8th of May, 1847, the town and castle of Vera Cruz having some time before surrendered, and there being
nothing left for the Navy to perform, I preferred an application to the Hon.
John Y. Mason, the head of the department, for permission to circumnavigate and thoroughly explore the Lake
Asphaltites or Dead Sea.
My application having been for some time under
consideration,
I received notice, on the 31st of July, of a favourable decision, with an order
to commence the necessary preparations.
On the 2d of October, I received an order to take commmand
of the U. S. store-ship "Supply," formerly called the " Crusader."
In the mean time, while the ship was being prepared for her
legitimate duty of supplying the squadron with stores, I had, by special
authority, two metallic boats, a copper and a galvanized iron one, constructed,
and shipped ten seamen for their crews. I was very par-
ticular
in selecting young, muscular, native-born Americans, of sober habits, from each
of whom I exacted a pledge to abstain from all intoxicating drinks. To this
stipulation, under Providence, is principally to be ascribed their final
recovery from the extreme prostration consequent on the severe privations and
great exposure to which they were unavoidably subjected.
Two officers, Lieutenant
J. B. Dale and Passed Midshipman R. Aulick, both excellent draughtsmen, were
detailed to assist me in the projected enterprise.
In November I received
orders to proceed to Smyrna, as soon as the ship should in all respects be
ready for sea; and, through Mr. Carr, U. S. Resident Minister at
Constantinople, apply to the Turkish government for permission to pass through a part of its dominions in Syria, for the purpose of
exploring the Dead Sea, and tracing the River Jordan to its source.
I was then directed, if
the firman were granted, to relinquish the ship to the first lieutenant, and
land with the little party under my command on the coast of Syria. The ship was
thence to proceed to deliver stores to the squadron, and Commodore Read was
instructed to send her back in time for our re-embarcation.
In the event of the
firman being refused, I was directed to rejoin the squadron without proceeding
to the coast of Syria.
The ship was long delayed
for the stores necessary to complete her cargo. The time was, however, fully
occupied in collecting materials and procuring information. One of the men
engaged was a mechanic, whose skill would be necessary in taking apart and
putting together the boats, which were made in sections. I also had him
instructed in blasting rocks,
should
such a process become necessary to ensure the transportation of the boats
across the mountain ridges of Galilee and Judea.
Air-tight gum-elastic
water bags were also procured, to be inflated when empty, for the purpose of
serving as life-preservers to the crews in the event of the destruction of the
boats.
Our arms consisted of a
blunderbuss, fourteen carbines with long bayonets, and fourteen pistols, four
revolving and ten with bowie-knife blades attached. Each officer carried his sword,
and all, officers and men, were provided with ammunition belts.
As taking the boats apart
would be a novel experiment, which might prove unsuccessful, I had two low
trucks (or carriages without bodies) made, for the purpose of endeavouring to
transport the boats entire from the Mediterranean to the Sea of Galilee. The
trucks, when fitted, were taken apart and compactly stowed in the hold,
together with two sets of harness for draught horses. The boats, when complete,
were hoisted in, and laid keel up on a frame prepared for them; and with arms,
ammunition, instruments, tents, flags, sails, oars, preserved meats, and a few
cooking utensils, our preparations were complete.
FROM
NEW YORK TO PORT MAHON.
ALL
things being in readiness, on
the 20th of November we dropped down from the Brooklyn Navy-Yard, abreast of
the Battery, and waited for a change of weather.
Friday, Nov. 26,1847. At 10 A. M. weighed
anchor, and at 10.15, with a fresh breeze from W. N. W., under a press of sail,
we stood down the bay of New York. Around us the ruffled water was chequered
with numerous sails, and the shadows of detached clouds flitting before the
keen and cutting wind, fit harbinger of the coming frost. Before us, the "
Narrows" open into Raritan Bay, and thence expand into the wide-spread and
magnificent ocean.
At 2, P. M., passed the lighthouse; at 2.30
discharged the pilot; 2.45 braced our yards to the fresh and favouring breeze,
and bade, as God in His mercy might decree, a temporary or a final adieu to our
native land.
In a few hours the low lands were sunk
beneath the horizon, and at sunset the high lands of " Navesink"
were alone visible above the agitated surface of the water. The dry wind
sweeping over the land, which had been saturated by the rains of the two
preceding days, caused an evaporation so great as wonderfully to increase the
refraction. The setting sun, expanding as it dipped, and
varying its hues with its expansion,
(16)
THE
LAND DISAPPEARS. 17
assumed
forms as unique as they were beautiful. Now elongated in its
shape, and now flattened at its ends, it would, at times, be disparted by the
white crest of an intervening wave, and present alternately the appearance of
golden cups and balls, and jewelled censers tossing about upon a silver
sea. As the minutes advanced, the western sky, tint by tint,
became one glorious suffusion of crimson and orange, and the disc of the sun,
flattening, widening, and becoming more ruddy and glowing as it descended, sunk
at last, like a globe of ruby in a sea of flame.
I took this as an
auspicious omen, although we sailed on Friday, the dreaded day of seamen. Why
superstition should select this day as an unlucky one, I cannot conceive. On
the sixth day, Friday, God created man and blessed him; and on Friday, the
Redeemer died for man's salvation: on Friday, Columbus sailed from Palos in
quest of another world: on the same day of the week, he saw the realization of
his dream of life; and returned upon a Friday, to electrify Europe with the
wondrous tidings of his discovery. As a harbinger of good,
therefore, and not of evil, I hailed our departure upon this favoured day.
With the setting sun, all
vestige of the land disappeared, and nothing remained but a luminous point,
which, from the solitary light-ship, gleamed tremulously across the waters. As
it sunk beneath the waves, our last visible tie with the Western World was
severed. How gladly on our return, perchance a tempestuous night, shall we hail
that light, which, flickering at first, but at length steadfast and true,
welcomes the weary wanderer to his home!
Without the least
abatement of affection for, I turned with less reluctance than ever from, the
land of my
18
PLEASING
ANTICIPATION.
nativity. The
yearnings of twenty years were about to be gratified. When a young midshipman,
almost the very least in the escort of the good Lafayette across the ocean, my
heart was prepared for its subsequent aspirations. In truth,
in our route across the Atlantic, in the silent watches of the night, my mind,
lost in contemplation, soared from the deep through which we ploughed our way,
to that upper deep, gemmed with stars, revolving in their ceaseless round, and
from them to the Mighty Hand that made them; and my previous desire to visit
the land of the Iliad, of Alexander and of Caesar, became merged in an
insatiate yearning to look upon the country which was the cradle of the human
race, and the theatre of the accomplishment of that race's mysterious destiny;
the soil hallowed by the footsteps, fertilized by the blood, and consecrated by
the tomb, of the Saviour.
Twice, since, at distant
intervals, I contemplated making the desired visit. But the imperative calls of
duty in the first instance, and a domestic calamity in the second, prevented
me. As I have before said, in the spring of the present year I
asked permission to visit the lands of the Bible, with the special purpose of
thoroughly exploring the Dead Sea; the extent, configuration, and depression of
which, are as much desiderata to science, as its miraculous formation, its
mysterious existence, and the wondrous traditions respecting it, are of
thrilling interest to the Christian.
The same liberal spirit
which decided that the Expedition should be undertaken, directed ample means to
be furnished for its equipment. With our boats, therefore, and arms,
ammunition, and instruments, I felt well prepared for the arduous but
delightful task before me.
The boats "Fanny
Mason" and " Fanny Skinner," of nearly equal
dimensions, were named after two young and blooming children, whose hearts are
as spotless as their parentage is pure. Their prayers, like guardian spirits,
would shield us in the hour of peril; and I trusted that, whether threading the
rapids of the Jordan, or floating on the wondrous sea of death, the "Two
Fannies" would not disgrace the gentle and artless beings whose names they
proudly bore.
Tuesday, Nov. 30. Spoke an English brig bound to
New York. She had many passengers on board, and had evidently
been a long time at sea. Poor fellows! they were sadly out of
their reckoning, and we endeavoured to correct their longitude, but the wind
blew so fresh that I fear we were not understood. There are
few things more exciting than the meeting of two ships on the lonely waters.
Approaching rapidly, and as rapidly receding, but a few moments are allowed for
friendly greeting; but, in that brief interval, how many thoughts of home and
its endearments crowd the mind of the anxious wanderer!
Thursday, Dec. 2. The wind freshened into a steady
gale; fragments of clouds flitted hurriedly across the sky; and the ship, now
riding upon the crests, and again sunk in the hollow of a wave, rolling and
plunging, dashed furiously onward, like a maddened steed, instinct with
desperation.
The deep colour of the water, its higher
temperature, and the light mist which shrouded its surface, showed that
we had been for some days in the Gulf Stream, that wonderful current which
originates from the multitudinous waters that are swept across the Atlantic
before the trade winds, and impinge against the western continent; thence, sent
with a whirl along the