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eight thousand inhabitants, and on the land side is walled; the harbor will admit only small vessels, but a seventy-four may find safe anchorage in the roadstead, as near almost to the shore as it may choose to come. The country produces great quantities of silk which is worked up in the city; and here, particularly, are manufactured the fanciful variegated scarfs used all over this region for sashes, and sometimes for turbans.
In addition to the pleasures we received in the family of our excellent consul, Mr. Chassaud, another gratification awaited us here, in the society of three of our countrymen, and their ladies, the Rev. Messrs. Bird, Smith, and Whiting, missionaries, who have been several years in the east, and during the last five or six at Beirout. They speak the languages of the natives with great fluency; and are men of intelligence and talents sufficient to give them a high standing in any society, no matter where. They came on board immediately to welcome us, and readily proffered such hospitality as their circumstances would allow; their residence at that time being on the mountain, for the sake of the superior salubrity of its atmosphere in summer. Strangers residing below in the hot season are subject to fevers, and in the summer following that of our visit, they had to lament the death of Dr. Dodge, a physician connected with this mission and that at Jerusalem. They have schools in the villages of the mountains, and in Beirout; and at the time of our visit, were
making arrangements for a printing press which has since arrived, and with which they are commencing operations.
It must strike every one, even those opposed to missions, as a pleasing circumstance, that in all such establishments belonging to our country, the communication of knowledge, not only in religious matters, but on all topics, is one of the earliest and is ever a constant object. Religion that comes thus associated cannot wish to hood-wink or lead the people blindfolded. It enlarges the mind, it teaches the people to think, and gives them useful objects of history and science to think about; it strengthens the judgment; and to this judgment, thus strengthened and thus rendered acute, it now appeals and asks for admission to the heart. No man need be afraid of a religion that comes in such companionship. It gives us the very best proof possible that it considers itself based on reason, and that it will bear the test of scrutiny from enlightened and intelligent minds which scrutiny it ever invites. There is no jargon of the schools here, no throwing of dust into men's eyes, no trying to blunt the intellect that nonsense may be forced upon it. The missionaries come with geographies, and arithmetics, and apparatus for easy and simple lectures, and compendious histories; or where such books are not to be had in the language, they go to work immediately and translate them; and they circulate them; and they gather the children from the streets, and seek for the adults, and they
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teach them knowledge, not religious knowledge only but knowledge of all kinds. Their object, it is granted, is to introduce religion into the heart, their religion, if the reader may choose to like the phrase; but then it comes preceded by and associated with knowledge; it loves the light; light is created, diffused, and in this light it comes, and in it addresses and appeals to us; and let him who opposes these efforts, look and see if he does not oppose them because he himself loves darkness rather than light, and that because his own deeds are evil.
I visited a missionary house at Malta, belonging to the English [Church?] Missionary Society, but under the care of some gentlemen from Switzerland. I found them striking off maps for an atlas in modern Greek, and making Arabic globes to be sent to Egypt, where, if I mistake not, it will astonish the natives when they are told that the world is round, and that they have been such prodigious travellers on its surface, when they were thinking themselves all the while sitting still. The shelves of this house were also filled with a great variety of books, translations of the most approved modern works for schools; and these they were scattering around the Mediterranean as fast as they were able. And when I went to the dwelling house of one of them, (the only one married,) I found his lady in a school with a room full of children, many of whom had been common beggars in the streets, and had been taken in here and clothed; she was teaching them to read and sew,
and had a small cabinet filled with their work, each article with the maker's name--the money for which, when sold, was to be delivered to the child itself. Though their garments were often "of many colors," owing to the strange mixture of patches, yet there was not one ragged child, and all were clean, and they looked cheerful and happy.
And all this is only an example of the Protestant missionary operations at Syra, and Athens, and Constantinople, and Smyrna, and since they have got the press, at Beirout, and in the islands of the Pacific, and in India, and every where, wherever our missionaries are to be found.
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CHAPTER XXII.
Party to Damascus. Ascent of Mount Lebanon. The roads. English carriage. Scenery of the mountain. Its inhabitants. Maronites. The Druses. Aaleih. Horns worn by the women.
Princesses of the mountain. Beautiful night scene. Bhamdoon. Plain of Coelo-Syria. Anti-Lebanon. Characteristic of Americans. A dilemma. First view of Damascus. The great plain.
Gardens. The city. "Street that is called Straight." St. Paul.
ABOUT noon on the first of September, a party of us might have been seen winding along the streets of Beirout, and then starting off in high spirits for Damascus. That city is the present capital, and residence of the Governor of Syria, and the Commodore had determined, while the ship was taking in water, to make it a visit.
Our company consisted of Commodore Patterson and two daughters, nine officers, and about twelve attendants and muleteers, and was headed by an Armenian gentleman, Mr. Farrah, whom Mr. Chassaud had just appointed American agent for Damascus. Mr. Farrah was accompanied also by a relative of his, so that we numbered altogether twenty-six persons; a large cavalcade for visiting a city where, only a year previously, it was extremely hazardous for any one to be seen in the Frank dress,
so savage and bitter was the hatred of the inhabitants towards all the Gaiours, or Christians. Mr. Smith and his lady were also with us, intending to accompany us as far as his house on the mountain, where we were to stop for the night.
Our road, on leaving the city, laid across a small plot of open ground bordered with trees, and immediately after this entered a region of gardens and vineyards, which appeared to be very productive. Among them, on the right, is a substantial stone house, recently erected by the missionaries for their press and books. It had, in some respects, an American look, and was an unexpected and welcome sight. We kept ascending gently for about two miles, when we came, at the summit of the eminence, to a fine grove of large venerable looking pines. The Pasha of Egypt is disposed to cultivate this tree for the use of his navy, and not far off has planted a little forest, which seems to be in a thriving condition.
This spot commands a fine view of the mountain, and plain, and sea, and is the one to which De La Martine has given apathetic interest. About three miles beyond it we commenced the ascent of Mount Lebanon, at first by a gently inclined plane, which, however, did not continue long; soon we came to steeper ascents, and then to yet steeper; and then commenced a series of experiments in vaulting, flying, and tumbling, which lasted quite across the mountain, and were sometimes near costing us life
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or limb. I believe there was but one person in the party who had not at least one fall, many of us could count three or four; and one of the ladies was saved from sliding down a precipice only by our springing to her help, and holding rider and donkey against the side of the bank till they had recovered foot-hold. I had thought that in Indiana, a few years previously, I had seen the very worst roads in the world; but they are equaled by those over Mount Lebanon, that is, if the reader can be made to understand clearly a comparison between mud-holes and rocks, which I confess I cannot exactly do myself. There is no mistake, however, about this road, which is certainly the most toilsome and dangerous one that I have ever met with. And yet it is the great thoroughfare between Damascus and its seaport, Beirout, and is every day traversed by camels with heavy loads of merchandise. The British Consul General for Syria, residing at Damascus, a few years ago had a carriage transported across this mountain from Beirout. He first had it taken to pieces, and then had the body slung between two camels; but the swinging motion, in consequence of the roughness of the roads, soon put the poor animals on beam ends; and they said, as plainly as camels could say, that they had no inclination for such work. He then put the vehicle together again, and employed sixty men to pull it up and lower it down the precipices, and at last got it safe home at Damascus, where now he may go an
airing over a plain 500 miles in length. He offered the ladies of our party to carry them in it to Palmyra. A ride in an English coach to Palmyra! it would have been something new under the sun, and we should all have made that interesting journey, if our time would have permitted. But back again--we have not arrived at Damascus yet, nor even at the summit of Lebanon, and many a weary mile is before us. Up, up we went, sometimes almost perpendicularly, wondering, when we could catch a breathing spell, at the power and wonderful surefootedness of our animals. After a while the scenery around us became truly grand. It is a mountain with more poetry than any other that I have ever seen. Grander I have met with, and richer, and more beautiful; but I have seen none that contains so much of all of these combined. The reader is perhaps aware that it is inhabited by a race of people that from time immemorial have kept themselves free and unsubdued; they form an enigma and a wonder in this land of sloth and imbecility. Hardy, industrious, and healthful, they have spread over the mountain till it is teeming with inhabitants, and have been compelled, wherever, by terrace or otherwise, it can be cultivated, to erect their dwellings, and break up or make a soil. They retain also their peculiar institutions; and this is the only place in all Turkey where Christians are allowed for their churches the use of bells.
The inhabitants of Mount Lebanon branch off
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into three religions: Mahomedans, Druses, and Maronite Christians. The last of these had their origin in the seventh century, and take their name from Maro, their first bishop, who, at this time, came from the banks of the Orontes and taught here the heretical doctrines of the Monothelites, which he had adopted. In the year 1182 they gave up these doctrines, and were united to the Romish church; at least they have ever since acknowledged the supremacy of the Pope, but as they never allow him to interfere with their doctrines or forms of worship, and have their own distinct class of ecclesiastical rulers, their subjection to the Roman Catholic jurisdiction is little better than nominal. They have a patriarch whom they elect themselves, and who takes uniformly the name of Peter; but his appointment, to be valid, must be confirmed by the Pope. Their number at present is about 120,000.
The Druses, who amount to about 70,000, are a strange and mysterious people. Their religion seems to be a compound of Paganism, Mahomedanism, and Christianity; but it is kept a profound secret, and we have few means of forming a judgment respecting it. They are divided into two classes, the Djakils, or ignorant, about 60,000 in number, and the Aakils, or intelligent, who amount to about 10,000; the latter alone are acquainted with the mysteries of their religion; but from the vague answers that are given to all queries by angers respecting it, I am inclined to think that it
is itself vague and undefined, and that except a few leading principles, they themselves scarcely know what they believe.
The Mahomedan population, in some parts of Lebanon, is very numerous.
On our right, as we ascended the mountain, was a large valley, commencing in the elevated parts of the range, and spreading, as it descended, till it formed a theatre among the hills of gigantic proportions. From the highest part to the lowest, it was all under cultivation, and dotted with cottages; while in various parts cascades were seen streaming from the rocks, and contrasting finely with the rich verdure with which the whole seemed to be carpeted, and over which the declining sun was now pouring a flood of mellowed light.
We turned, by and by, around the head of this valley, and delighted with the views, but exhausted by the constant muscular effort to keep in our saddles, we were glad to find ourselves at the door of Mr. Bird's house in the village of Aaleih. In approaching the village, the young beaux of our party had straightened themselves in their saddles, and made their donkeys hold up the head and look smart, in hopes perhaps of making a conquest among the princesses of the mountain, some of whom were residing in Aaleih; but as we passed the houses, nothing but old looking heads, and these with great horns stuck on them, were thrust out towards us, presenting some of the least attractive,
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and most singular specimens of woman-kind that we had met with. This is no joke of mine; for it is actually the fashion in this region for the ladies to stick to their heads a horn very much in size and shape like a speaking-trumpet, if deprived of its mouth-piece. They are generally of embossed silver, and are handed down from mother to child through many generations; some are of paste-board covered with gold or silver paper, and some of the more costly ones which we saw, in addition to being of pure silver, were set with precious stones. They are worn generally on the top of the head, projecting a little in front; but are sometimes attached to the side directly over the temple, according as the fancy may take the belle or her ladyship; they are worn
not only by day, but also during the night. A white muslin shawl is usually cast over the horn, and tied with a string at its lower part, and is thus made to shade the face; their dress in other respects has nothing peculiar. We priced some of these singular ornaments, and found them valued at about fifteen dollars.
The Druse men have squat figures and countenances, though not very intelligent, yet of rather pleasing expression. They wear a dress considerably like that of the Turks, and in addition, a loose coat, marked with broad white and black stripes running vertically; this coat, I believe, is universal among them, and is one of the characteristics of a Druse. We
met them in great numbers along the road, and took pleasure in marking their habits, so different from the lazy, sluggish movements of the Turks.
Mrs. Bird had been good enough to prepare an excellent meal for us, to which we sat down with keen appetites; after which some of us went, in company with Mrs. B. and Mrs. Whiting, to call upon the princesses, the daughters of the late Emir of this district, over which, since his decease, one of them had been exercising the authority of chief.
There was a house full of females and children, and we could not help admiring the sprightly, intelligent faces, and the graceful carriage of all, both old and young. Their costume was also very becoming. One of the lads, about eleven years of age, with a keen resolute eye, wore a handjar* of beautiful workmanship in his belt, and had the bearing of a little king. The young folks came afterwards to visit the ship, with a letter from Mr. Bird; but unfortunately did not reach her till she was under way, and they could not be admitted on board.
Again came our ponies, (alias donkeys, at least most of them,) and again came the tug of this mountain travelling, which soon was rendered doubly unpleasant by a moonless night. We could see nothing of the way, and had no resource except quietly to follow Mr. Smith, our guide, and resign ourselves to the sure-footed habits of our animals.
* A Turkish weapon, like a broad dagger, but usually about a foot in length.
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We travelled on in this way for about an hour after dark, when suddenly, and as if by a kind of magic, a scene opened upon us that produced a general exclamation of delight. Mr. Smith had selected a safe spot for the exhibition, and without giving us warning, had led us to the edge of an immense valley, which spread around in the form of a great amphitheatre, and was covered with villages and farmhouses from top to bottom. The houses had lights in them, and all at once, from utter darkness, the whole region, a space of some miles in diameter, appeared as if sprinkled over with stars; it seemed as if we had been suddenly carried upward, and had been placed in mid-heaven, amid the constellations and the bright effulgence of the Milky Way.
But we were yet upon our earth, and in a very rough portion of it; and as we went on, climbing up and slipping down, we began to long for our own beacon light. It appeared at length on the opposite side of a deep valley, around which we had to wind; but at length, about ten o'clock, we were safely deposited in Mr. Smith's hospitable dwelling at Bhamdoon. His house accommodated the Commodore and family, while the rest of us were distributed among his neighbors, where we found pretty comfortable beds.
The rising sun, next morning, found us on our way, and in addition to our baggage mules, another in our company, with a couple of tents provided by Mr. Smith, an accommodation which we found of the
most essential service during the journey. Mount Lebanon, at the highest peak, which was not far north of our road, attains an elevation of 10,000 feet; but at our place of crossing was not quite so high. Opposite to Balbec its summit retains the snow, even in exposed situations, all the year.
We reached the highest point of our road at a place about five miles east of Bhamdoon; and after descending into some deep glens, and encountering again a frightful rocky ascent, we stopped for breakfast at 10 o'clock, on the eastern slope of the range. The plain of Coelo-Syria, apparently about eight miles across, but in reality of nearly twice that width, was spread out below us; and on the opposite side of it ascended the more gentle and less formidable looking mountain of Anti-Lebanon. At a peak to the southward of us this latter range was, however, also covered with snow. Numerous streams dash down the sides of both mountains, clothing them with perpetual green, and then discharge their waters into the river Litane, the ancient Leontes, which, after winding through the whole length of this plain, is finally lost in the sea not far from Sidon.
The plain of Coelo-Syria is generally of the breadth that I have mentioned, and is about 100 miles in length, being bounded in the whole extent by the parallel ranges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon. It has a rich soil, and might be made extremely productive; but only a small portion of it is at present under cultivation. Our meal was eaten by the side
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of a brook, beneath some fig trees; and when it had been succeeded by a short season of repose, we finished our descent, and entered on the monotonous and fiery plain. All day we dragged ourselves across, scorched by a fierce sun, and parched with thirst, and finding little relief in the sight of the snowy peaks on either side. We came about two o'clock to a khan, and soon after to the river, which we crossed on a bridge, though at this season it can be forded. Here we met a long string of camels from Damascus, and soon after we witnessed a natural phenomenon, of which we afterwards saw several instances on the great Assyrian plain,--columns of sand raised high in the air, and passing along the ground, in their shape bearing a great resemblance to that of a water-spout, and doubtless produced by a similar cause.
Our course was not straight across the plain, but inclining to the southward. About five o'clock we reached a village near the foot of Anti-Lebanon, and while we stopped for water, our muleteers began very deliberately to unload the animals, concluding to stop there for the night. They were astonished when told that the day's journey was not yet finished, and then remonstrated, and then got angry, but to no purpose; and I believe they thought us a very singular and uncivilized set of beings. I do not know that any traveller has ever yet spoken of the difference between foreign countries and our own with respect to energy and rapidity of movement. With us,
"time" literally "is money;" and as we have abundant opportunities of making the most of it, we get a sharpness of look, and a quickness of motion, which is seen no where else, and has at length become a characteristic of the nation.
The contrast is striking every where, but most of all along the Mediterranean. A Spanish lad for whom I lately got an excellent situation with a mechanic in one of our cities, was near losing it because 11 he did not move fast;" although in his own country he would have been considered smart enough. I pointed out to him the difference, and mentioned the objection, and he immediately improved. There is, in most of these countries, a heaviness of look, and slowness of motion, in strong contrast with the bustling, driving character of people in our cities; but which is easily accounted for by the fact, that there are fewer stimulants to enterprise and activity. The journey from Beirout to Damascus, I believe, usually occupies between three and four days; although there were ladies in our company, we made it in two; and let me here also remark, en passant, that as far as endurance of hardships and of fatigue is concerned, I believe ladies are quite as good travellers as men; and as far as my own observation has gone, they are better.
Our determination this evening to proceed, however, soon brought us into an embarrassment. We entered the defiles of Anti-Lebanon, and in the course of a few hours found ourselves shut up in them, and
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night settling around us, without knowing where to stop; and our Armenian friend, driven beyond his usual land-marks, could now give us no assistance. Tents we had, thanks to the kindness of Mr. Smith, and also provisions; but we had to find a stopping place where our beasts could get water; and we passed on, mile after mile, without any indications of stream or fountain. This mountain is very different from Lebanon. Though in some places very high, it is generally much lower, and consists of rounded eminences, with here and there deep ravines or glens between. It is also in most places quite deserted. Along this route we passed but one village in the whole way across the mountain, and this was a miserable looking one; nor was there a single house in the whole intermediate country.
We reached a spot at length where the defile was succeeded by a narrow plain, and our company, scattering themselves over the ground in search of water, a glad shout, at length, from some of the party, informed us that they had found a spring. The water came gushing out from the foot of a bluff of rocks, and beneath them we pitched our tents and lighted our fires. Some of us then went to filling the pots for cooking, and some were sent to grope in the dark after dry thistles for fuel; while others seated themselves on the rocks and looked up at the stars, and talked sentiment.
It was a raw cold night; and we were off long before day, traversing a region as dreary and
desolate as can be imagined. About ten o'clock we came to the village just noticed; and then again pursued our course over hill and along dale, with not even a butterfly or grasshopper to cheer our course. A large fountain by and by, and a little herbage near it, offered some variety; and not long after this we caught sight of an oasis some miles on our left--a little valley of the most intense green, with trees of majestic form, mingled with the tapering poplar and cypress, all imbedded among hills of a red and yellow color, and of unbroken sterility.
The ground before us now began to ascend, stretching off into elevated plains; and as we advanced, a traveller was now and then met, or seen at a distance crossing the country. These signs multiplying, it was evident that we were approaching Damascus. We gained, at length, the summit of a long sloping plain terminated by a bluff;--and there--there was the city.
And it was a scene strikingly oriental and truly magnificent. We had hit upon the very best way by which Damascus can be approached, for its gardens, though far down, were right under our feet. A sea of intense verdure breaking all at once upon the arid desert; a great city bursting suddenly from amid the completest solitude; and beyond it a plain stretching off far off-till the eye could follow it no longer;--this was what we saw as we stood upon those heights. I believe the plain of Damascus reaches to the Euphrates, and proceeds on with that river;
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and if so, it must be 500 miles or more in length, and as far as we could see, it is a smooth level, without hillock or break of any kind. On the eastward, at a great distance, and forming a dim speck on the horizon, were some inequalities like mountains; but to the southward the plain was as smooth as the ocean in a calm, and apparently as boundless.
The peculiar excellence of the spot where Damascus is situated is owing to the Barraday, a rapid stream, which here breaks out from the mountain ravines; and by numerous artificial as well as natural channels, is made to spread over the plain; it waters the whole extent of the gardens, and when this is done, the little of it that is left proceeds on southwardly through the plain, but amid the arid sands it soon dwindles away and disappears. The stretch of gardens is about nine miles in diameter, and, except the space occupied by the city, is one unbroken extent of the deepest verdure. It is planted with all kinds of trees; mostly, however, such as produce fruit, among which the apricot still holds the ascendency; pomegranate, orange, lemon, and fig trees also abound, and rising over these are other trees of huge proportions, intermingled with the poplar and sometimes the willow. Water is carried into every garden; and as we rode on towards the city, it was our almost constant companion, dashing along by our side or through arched ways under the road, and sending off branches in every direction. It is here quite a rapid stream.
The gardens are enclosed by brick or earthen walls; and beside the fruit trees are planted thickly with vegetables and with flowering shrubs. In the centre of this wide stretch of verdure, which, as we gazed upon it from the hills, seemed like an earthly paradise, is the city itself. Its population is estimated at 100,000; but I should judge it to be greater than this.
It presents a great mass of houses, but being situated on the level plain, and having no points of elevation and but few prominent edifices, it would not strike us greatly, if it were not mixed up with so much natural beauty. The great mosque, formerly the church of St. John, towers considerably above the rest of the edifices; and so does the dark massive castle, or citadel, and so also do a few domes and several minarets; but they are not sufficient to give it character. But with the scenery around, the gardens, the adjoining range of Anti-Lebanon, rising in many a peak and presenting bold precipices, and with the great plain, so vast that the imagination is lost in attempting to follow it, El Sham, as by this time we had learned from the Arabs to call Damascus, is a place of exquisite beauty. One part of it, which struck us as we viewed it from our elevated position, will interest the Christian. It is a narrow prolongation of the city at the southern end, about three quarters of a mile in length. Commencing in the body of the city and extending along through the whole length of this portion, is “the street which is
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called Straight," still remarkable for its length and direct course, and still, I was informed, going by its ancient name. It added greatly to the interest with which we contemplated these remark- able and beautiful scenes, to think that here Paul first looked on nature with the eyes of a Christian, and amid this scenery found subjects to animate him in his new and joyful aspirations, and to strengthen him in his high resolves. Here, in Damascus, “he first preached Christ, that he is the Son of God."
341
CHAPTER XXIII.
Late fanaticism o£ the people of Damascus. Change. Mr. Parrah's house. Agreeable disappointment. Costume of the natives. The Cobcob. Mr. Farran, the English Consul General. Visit to the palaces. Palaces of Abdallah Bey, &c. Official visit to the Governor, Sheriff Pasha. Handsome reception. Promises of the Pasha with respect to Americans in Syria. Mr. Ferran's beautiful country residence. Bazaars. Damascus blades--not to be had. Departure from the city. Night at Mr. Farran's.
HAVING rested by a stream at the edge of the gardens till our straggling party had all come up, we passed on, and entering one of the city gates, were soon in a labyrinth of bazaars and narrow streets. Our large cavalcade attracted considerable attention as we rode unceremoniously along, our baggage mules frequently brushing the natives and forcing for themselves a wide passage amid the crowds. Many looks of dark and angry import were turned upon us, but no one offered any molestation; and with the exception of their scowling looks, they were sufficiently respectful. It was only about a year before this that De La Martine, on approaching the city, found it advisable to stop at one of the neighboring villages, and change his European for the Turkish dress. The iron hand of the Egyptian
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Pasha, wherever it lights, makes itself felt. It is now as safe to travel in Egypt as in our own country; and will soon be so in Palestine, and also about Damascus, which, until quite lately, was, and indeed probably still is, one of the most fanatical cities in the world. In this city there has already been a surprising change. During our visit we went freely among the bazaars, sometimes all in company, and sometimes in small parties or singly; and though attracting such crowds that the streets were often actually blocked up, and it was difficult for the citizens to get along, all were respectful; nor, as far as we know, was even an opprobrious epithet ever used.
The Armenian gentleman who had been our companion in the journey, had offered the hospitality of his house, and now led us on through the city for nearly a mile, when at length we came to a stand. We were in a street, narrow like all the rest, (the bazaars excepted,) and alongside of a house that seemed to give promise of nothing but poverty. Its exterior was rough and coarse; and the walls bulging out here and there, looked as if waiting to tumble on our heads and crush us, rather than to give us shelter. We entered by a low narrow door into a passage, also narrow and dark; and great indeed was our surprise at the scene which broke upon us when we reached its further end. We afterwards visited all the celebrated palaces of the city, and found the exterior of all of them of a character
similar to this. On the outside they are coarse and wretched looking buildings, seemingly ready to crumble and fall to pieces; and the appearance of poverty is probably intentional, in order to save the inmates from the exactions of an arbitrary and oppressive government. But for this, ample amends are made in the interior.
The edifice into which we were now introduced formed a hollow square; the open space within being occupied by a court, about fifty feet by forty, all paved with variegated marbles. In the centre of this was a square fountain, fourteen or fifteen feet on each side, and rising about two feet above the pavement. It was filled with gold and silver fishes, and was lined all around with vases or pots with flowers. At the further end of the court; the pavement rose, and here was a recess occupying nearly the whole width of the court, and about ten feet in depth. It was fronted by a lofty pointed arch, richly ornamented with arabesques cut in stone, or painted in a great variety of gay colors. The back and sides of the recess were enriched in a similar manner, every part of them being covered either with arabesques or with parallel stripes of gay colors, either in horizontal, or in zigzag or waving lines. I must except one or two compartments or raised pannels on each side, with rich borders to them; the pannels were occupied by stanzas of Arabic poetry in large letters, either cut into relief, or done with
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paint. At the back of the recess was a broad luxurious ottoman.
This lofty and magnificent recess, whose effect, apparently unstudied, is yet very striking, meets us at once on emerging from the dark passage, and gives us our first impression of the building; but as we advance towards it a new candidate for our admiration is presented on our left. Just before reaching the angle of the court which adjoins the recess, we come to a door-way, which is ornamented, but has no very remarkable pretensions; but as we approach, the fall of water arrests our attention and invites us to enter; and on doing so our eagerness to take possession of the lofty cool recess is suddenly checked. This room is not very large, its dimensions being altogether about fifteen feet by twenty-five; and the light is permitted to enter only in sufficient quantity to make objects distinct. A short distance within the door is a circular marble fountain, from the centre of which a few streaks of water ascend up into the air, and breaking at the top, fall in a constant shower of gems, creating a delightful coolness, and a noise just sufficient to lull one to repose. The floor here is of tesselated marbles; on each side are marble slabs attached to the wall, supporting China vases and other bijouderie of a similar substance. In the window is a salver containing sherbet and confectionary, where any person may help himself when ever his inclinations prompt, the supply being constant but without parade. About ten feet from the
door the floor suddenly ascends about eighteen inches, and now it is covered with the brilliant and soft carpet of Turkey or Persia; while quite around the recess thus formed runs a broad ottoman, yet softer and more luxurious than that of the open court. The walls of this chamber are quite covered with arabesques, in stucco, or painted in various colors, among which is also interspersed Arabic poetry. The ceiling is lofty, and is of wood formed into small compartments, usually arabesque patterns, the bottom of the pannels being often composed of mirrors. The wood itself is colored so as to resemble japanned work of brilliant colors.
This description will give the reader a general idea of these two apartments. I am afraid to venture on a more minute description of them, as his mind would only be burdened if I should attempt to give in detail all the ornaments, the projecting cornice in the Saracenic architecture, and the great variety of patterns and colors that decked the sides and ceiling both of the small retired chamber or of the large recess.
The stone walls of the open court were ornamented all around with patterns, sometimes cut in the stone, but usually in paint of brilliant colors,--red, blue, white, and yellow, being those chiefly employed. Sometimes these were put on in horizontal stripes three or four inches wide; sometimes in waving or zigzag lines, and sometimes in interlacing circles; here and there a pannel of fanciful arabesque is
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introduced. A person is very much struck with the exuberance of the eastern fancy in these patterns, scarcely any two of them being alike; they are generally in excellent taste.
The reader will think me describing the palace of a prince; but it was the residence of a private gentleman--a merchant, I believe; and I have been so minute, because it is not a palace, but one, of the edifices common among that class of persons. We saw more of them; they are all wretched looking on the outside, but magnificent and luxurious within.
These two chambers form the "parlors" of the dwelling. At an angle corresponding to that of the small chamber was a room of a plainer character, used during our residence in the house as a dining room. The remainder of the two sides of the court was occupied by the sitting room of the females of the family, and by entrances to the kitchen and to the offices. Against the end of the court which faced the large recess, two flights of broad step's ascended to the right and left, one to the gentlemen's, and the other to the ladies' private apartments. They were protected from the weather by a broad ornamented projection of the roof. On entering our own sleeping apartment, we had before us a passage about six feet wide, on the left of which was a platform of small elevation divided by a projecting partition into two recesses; while on the right was a similar recess, each of them being about twenty feet square; along the sides were ottomans raised about
six inches from the floor, and these being at night provided with covering, formed our beds. The sides of this room were also ornamented with arabesques, and with a great variety of Arabic poetry.
Damascus is by far the most oriental city that I have seen, and this may serve as a specimen of the dwellings of the wealthier class.
The ladies of Mr. Farrah's family came forward to welcome those of our party; we were led to our various rooms and told that they were ours; and then the family retired; nor through the whole of our stay, though their hospitality was unremitting, was there any parade or ostentation of service. Our wants were all supplied, and where this was possible, anticipated; abundant tables were spread, some gentlemen of the family generally taking their seats at them, but seldom eating, giving quiet attention to our wants, and as quiet orders to the servants; but no one pressed us to eat or to drink, or spoke of the dishes, or obtruded any thing on our notice; nor did they come themselves except when we expressed a wish for their society. The business of the family seemed to go on in the usual course, and the only evidence we had that our presence was felt, was in the unostentatious supply of our necessities. This was true hospitality; we received the most essential services, but without their even seeming to imagine that they were conferring an obligation, or making us feel uneasy by allowing us to see that we were disturbing them.
The Moslem inhabitants of Damascus are like
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those of Turkey further north both in their dress and habits, except that the turban is better adjusted, and has a smarter and more dandyish look. So at least we thought; but perhaps we should not have noticed this, if we had not been led to expect it from a passage in some book, I believe Hope's Anastasius. And the ladies of the city, I suppose, would scarcely pardon a traveller who should neglect to notice the cobcob, any more than an American belle would excuse an eastern traveller who, in speaking of her costume, would forget to describe the elegant bishops' sleeves by which she adds to her arms those beautiful proportions which stupid nature has forgotten to give her. The cobcob is a kind of--what shall I call it?--stilt? no; this will not describe it--nor will shoe, nor yet patten. It is a combination of the excellences of the stilt and patten. The manufacturer takes a slip of board, which he cuts to the shape of the foot; and across this nails an embroidered strap, through which the foot is to be slipped, and by which it adheres; next he fits to this board near the ends, two upright pieces about nine inches in height, narrowed above to the width of the delicate foot, but spread out to a breadth of eight inches at the lower extremity. The whole is now ornamented with mother-of-pearl in fanciful patterns, and the cobcob is finished and ready for use. The height that I have given for them is that of a pair designed for a person of the wealthier classes; the height, however, is in proportion to the rank of the wearer; and if the lady be of
superior grade in society, she disdains to walk with a cobcob of less than twelve inches in height; while the vulgar have to be contented with a smaller elevation, say of five or six inches. Slipping her feet under the strap, the Damascus belle now rises into the proper dignity of her station, and is ready to receive her visitors. Would it not be well for our ladies to adopt the cobcobs as an excellent accompaniment to the bishops' sleeves? In some of our towns they would be of real service, as they would settle questions of rank and precedency, by showing us at once, in which class of society the lady considers herself to rank; whether among the first, second, or third, or only the ninth or tenth. For an American exclusive, we would allow a suitable cobcob of three feet in height.
Joking aside, it was really odd enough to see the ladies of Damascus going about their houses with this singular kind of slipper. I have described exactly the dimensions of a pair which I purchased in a street almost entirely devoted to the sale of them, and abounding in them of all sizes, from the proportions here given, down to those for a child, where the altitude is not more than a few inches. I saw none worn in the streets: they use them in the marble courts of their houses, in the kitchen and nursery, and in the common household occupations.
The morning after our arrival, Mrs. Farran, the lady of the English consul-general for Syria, did us the honor to call, and was good enough to offer to
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accompany us in our visits through the city. Mr. Farran sent a very kind message, but was unable to come himself; they were residing at a country-seat at the foot of the mountains, and Mr. F. having the day previous to this come to the city on business, was attacked with a fever. Damascus, in summer, is a very unhealthy place, and is dangerous to European constitutions. For the polite attentions of Mr. arid. Mrs. F., which were unceasing during our stay, any thing that I could say would be but a feeble acknowledgment. We had no claims on them, not even a letter of introduction; but their politeness was unremitting, and certainly contributed greatly to the pleasures of our visit. Mr. Farran, I believe, was appointed to this station by his government in consequence of its wish to open a steamboat communication down the Euphrates with India, and by his intelligence and tact, and the high esteem in which he is held by the Pasha of Egypt, has very materially contributed to the success of that enterprise. Mrs. Farran was the first lady that had ever ventured to appear here in the European costume, and the ladies of our party were the next; lady Franklin, who had visited the place, having, during her visit, adopted the national dress.
Having mounted our ponies, we started, under the guidance of our polite friend, to visit the curiosities of Damascus; and first proceeded to the palace of Abdallah Bey, one of the wealthiest persons of the city. His family is considered the most ancient
and most noble in Syria, and, we were informed, had the Pashalik of Damascus for 300 years. Abdallah has declined office under the Egyptian Pasha,* and is now a private citizen. His palace, with the courts and gardens, occupies a large extent of ground; but I will not fatigue the reader with details. There are three or four distinct courts, like that of our own residence already described, but of course much larger, and in a style of far greater magnificence. In this palace we counted eight fountains, several of them with jets. The Bey received us with great politeness, and showed us through the buildings himself, after which we were entertained with coffee, and pipes and sherbet. A hint being here given by Mrs. F. that the strangers would be pleased if they could see the ladies' apartments, the old gentleman gave orders immediately to have them cleared of his women-folks; and when this had been done, led us through the whole establishment. As we proeeeded, a rustling and occasionally a titter behind the partitions or screens, seemed to indicate that the females were not far off, and were amusing themselves with watching us while they themselves were unseen. This part of the palace is separated from the rest by a high wall, and consists of a court, with two large fountains surrounded by orange and lemon trees and rose bushes, a garden ornamented also with two fountains and trees, and a range of apart-
*Mohammed Ali got possession of Damascus without resistance, in June, 1832.
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ments surrounding the court. These apartments were more splendid than any others in the palace, the architectural finishing of the chambers being of the most delicate kind and in exquisite taste. One room, as we entered, presented a marble fountain in the centre, in which were seven jets; and looking through the shower of diamonds that broke from them, and fell with an unceasing murmur into the reservoir, we saw, at the further end of the chamber, a cascade of six or seven feet in height, the water of which was broken up, and fell amid sculptured marble cut into a variety of fanciful forms.
In the gentleman's receiving rooms of the Damascus palaces is a curious ornament. A few feet below the ceiling is a broad cornice, supported by Saracenic sculptures running quite around the room; and ranged on this is an unbroken line of China bowls of the largest dimensions that it is possible to procure. The wealth of the individual is supposed to be indicated by the number and the size of these bowls. In one palace I counted near two hundred in a single room; they are of the finest China, and are colored; and in rooms where, as in these countries, the only furniture consists of carpets and ottomans, may assist in preventing the apartment from looking too naked; but I did not much admire the taste. Almost every family has some of these bowls; there were several in our sleeping room at Mr. Farrah's, which we put to the desecrating use of wash-bowls.
From this we proceeded to the palaces of Ali Aga
and Abdi El Belzah Aga, which were also splendid, though smaller than that of Abdallah Bey. In one of them was a chamber not more than fourteen feet square, the finishing of the walls and ceiling of which had cost 7000 dollars. They were composed of mirrors in small compartments, and were further highly enriched with mother of pearl, gilding, and with arabesques and Saracenic mouldings in a great variety of forms.
We finished with Mr. Farran's town-house or palace, for such it truly is; and where, to oriental splendor we found united English elegance and comfort. The furniture from his own country was made to harmonize very well with the eastern architectural taste.
The Commodore in the morning had sent his travelling firman to the palace of Sheriff Pasha, the Governor of Syria; and now, while the ladies proceeded with Mrs. Farran to her country residence, he went with the officers to make an official visit to that dignitary. The cavalcade, consisting of the Dragoman of the English embassy, Cavasses, Mr. Farrah, and the American officers, had to traverse the whole length of the city, as the Governor's palace is on the south-western end. Sheriff Pasha had been represented to us as a thorough Turk in his feelings and manners towards Christians; but owing, probably, to the firman, he met the party in the court of his palace, surrounded by his officers; and with a guard of honor. On being conducted to the audience
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hall, the party found that chairs had been provided for their accommodation, and he even occupied a chair himself. The usual compliment of pipes, &c. was paid; and while smoking, he proceeded to inquire about our country, showing, as indeed did most of the Egyptian officers wherever we visited, a knowledge of our institutions and resources that we had not expected to find. He spoke of our late war and our successes on the ocean; and expressed a strong desire to see the Delaware, of which he said he had that morning received an account by letter. His curiosity, he said, would have carried him over to Beirout to visit the ship, if he had not been in daily expectation of the arrival of Ibrahim Pasha. After presenting Mr. Farrah to him as the agent of our government, and receiving assurances that on this recommendation he should be received without the usual formalities of writing to Alexandria, the Commodore expressed the satisfaction he felt in the protection and countenance that had been afforded by Mohammed Ali and the Governor to the American citizens resident in Syria. The Pasha replied, “That the citizens of all powers residing in the kingdom were entitled to protection--such were his orders, which it afforded him pleasure to fulfil, particularly towards the Americans, who had by their correct conduct and their efforts to do good, merited protection and favor; and that so long as he continued in office they should be his peculiar care, and that he himself would be their consul;"
he requested, "if we should hear of an American having suffered injustice or injury, or not having obtained justice for any injury or insult, that the Commodore would write to him, and charge him with neglect of his promise," and added, "that, in short, he wanted to be himself American consul in Syria, and charge himself with the care and interests of all Americans, who were then, or might afterwards settle, in Syria, or make it a visit" The reader is left to deduct from all this whatever he may consider as belonging to the usual palavar of such occasions; but, after all, Sheriff Pasha certainly acted and spoke in a very handsome manner.
The party, after this interview, proceeded to Mr. Farran's country-seat, where we were engaged to dinner. This is a very beautiful spot. It is quite near the foot of the mountains, in a north-western direction from the city, from which it is about two miles distant. The house stands within a large enclosure, and has in front a court surrounded by immense walnut trees intermingled with the orange and lemon, overhanging a large fountain. Directly under the windows in the rear rushes the Barraday, here undivided, and a full rapid stream of the clearest water. The grounds around the dwelling are laid out in good taste, and are covered by an exuberance of foliage, some of the trees being of prodigious magnitude.
The entertainment was in a style to correspond to all this; and after such a busy day, good appetites
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were not wanting to do it justice. It was, indeed, pleasant, away at Damascus, to meet with a hospitality so kind and agreeable, and society that beguiled the thoughts back to one's father-land: and the party were easily induced to remain till morning. Beds, in these countries, are easily provided, the broad ottomans only requiring a few sheets in order to make them excellent places of repose; and so they are generally used.
The next day was appropriated to a lounge among the bazaars; and we spent it agreeably, under the guidance of Mr. and Mrs. Farran, in looking at the great variety of oriental productions. I have always taken great pleasure in lounging in a Turkish bazaar ; and it struck me that these of Damascus, though perhaps less splendid, are more pleasing than even the great bazaars of Constantinople. One very pleasing characteristic of them is their great loftiness; while those of the Turkish capital are low. The reader will imagine a street, or any succession of streets, or rather a labyrinth of streets, about fifteen feet wide, and covered at the height of fifty or sixty feet by a wooden roof, generally tight, but sometimes allowing, through the interstices of the covering or of a huge spreading grape-vine, the sunbeams to fall in a gentle and chequered light. The sides of this street are composed entirely of shops, not very large, and quite open in front; so that the passengers can easily distinguish every article upon the well-filled shelves. The floor of the shop is
raised about three feet, and is carpeted; and in the centre sits the lord of the little domain, ready for the call of customers, and in the intervals helping away the time by means of a book, or a pipe, or it may be by a nap. From the sides of partitions between the stores bits of wood project into the street, and on these are hung specimens of the articles for sale, silks of various dye, handkerchiefs covered with vines or with sprigs of gold embroidery; towels ornamented at their ends in a similar showy manner; and cashmere shawls, rich enough to turn almost any brain, except, of course, those of the reader and myself. Here, as in other oriental cities, the shops are not mixed up together in the manner usual with us; but streets, or parts of a street, are appropriated to the sale of a particular article. One street has cobcobs; another has slippers; another jewelry; another arms; another dry goods; another drugs. We came to one lined with manufacturies of cutlery, and at once scattered along it in search of something that might be tortured into the boast of "a Damascus blade;" but all to little purpose. The gentlemen, seated cross-legged before their anvils, stared at our questions, and seemed now, for the first time, to become aware of the celebrity of their manufactures: and the nearest approach that we could find to the articles of our search, were some huge, coarse knives, and a handjar or two. They had, however, the delicate waving lines of yellow and blue along the blade, which was one of the characteristics of the
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Damascus swords, and was occasioned by their being made of alternate pieces of iron and steel wire; the former to give them toughness, the latter hardness and edge.
Here and there, at the corners of streets, we came to fruit-stands, and in some of the well-filled baskets I noticed peaches, which I think were the largest that I have ever seen.
The appearance of such a large party in the French dress seemed to rouse the people from their natural apathy, and the streets sometimes became so crowded as to be uncomfortable. We were, however, always treated with politeness, and found them ready to gratify our curiosity with regard to their wares: if we purchased, well: if not, well: the muscles of the dignified and composed features of the merchant were equally unmoved.
We might have spent a much longer time very agreeably at Damascus, and were urged also to proceed on to Palmyra; but our time was limited; and towards the close of the second day we bade adieu to the hospitable family of Mr. Farrah, by which we had been so kindly entertained. Our faces were now turned towards Balbec, which was not far out of our way back to the ship; and as Mr. Farran's house was on the road to that city, he had insisted on our coming out this evening and spending the night under his roof.
Having filed out at the north-western end of the city, we came, soon after leaving it, to a large bury-
ing-ground, where the graves, covered with solid masonry, which was plaistered and whitewashed, showed a pleasing attention to the dead. The whitewash looked as if frequently renewed, and every part of the ground was clean and in good order. The appropriate cyprus, however, was wanting; nor was there any other tree, or even a shrub. Beyond this we entered among the gardens once more; and were immediately surrounded by trees of venerable appearance and majestic growth, and by cottages and country-houses, and gushing streams. In our own country, majestic forest trees and streams of all dimensions are common things, and the reader may wonder at the enthusiasm which we felt when such objects were met with in our journeyings: our enthusiasm was owing to two causes--the rarity of such things about the Mediterranean was one, and the other cause was the fact that they are common at our home: they brought home to our minds, more vividly perhaps than any other objects could have done; and no one who has not made the experiment can tell how dear, at the end of a few years' absence, our father land becomes.
Alighted at Mr. Farran's, however, we could not feel that we were in a strange country. A pleasant evening succeeded an agreeable day, and when we stretched ourselves on our couches, the gurgling of water on either side of the house lulled us to repose.
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CHAPTER XXIV.
Sunrise on the plain of Damascus. Mountain Mosque. Superstition of the natives of Damascus. Mountain course of the Barrady. Tomb of Abel. Fountain of Rosalyn. Toils of travel. Comforts on the road to Pompeii. Ruins of Balbec. The great Temple and its courts. Stones of prodigious size. A gem in Architecture. The circular Temple. Gleanings with regard to their history. Pasha of Balbec. Marshal Bourmont. Cedars of Lebanon. Town of Zahle. Night in our tents on Lebanon. Attack by the natives. Return to the ship.
EARLY dawn on the 6th of September found us prepared for our journey. We took an early breakfast, and then, accompanied by our kind host and his lady, began to wind up the steep ascents that lie just back of his house. The scene was strikingly oriental. Two negro lads, attendants of Mr. Farran, dressed in the gay and fanciful costume of this region, and mounted on spirited animals, were amusing themselves with making their horses fly at full speed up the precipices, and with darting to and fro across our path. The air was perfumed with the odors of the orange and jessamine: the gardens had been steeped in dew, and seemed to welcome the god of day, which now rising on the edge of the boundless plain, filled it all with glory, and hung the mountain sides with splendid purple and roseate hues.
At the summit of the eminence, we passed a little out of our way, to examine a religious edifice of the Moslems, erected, I think, on the spot where Mahomet is said to have alighted to take once more a look at Damascus, while on his way to heaven. In the estimation of Mahommedans, Mecca is first in sanctity: next is Jerusalem; and next is Damascus, which they call the Prophet's Heel: the plain adjoining this city is the rendezvous for the great northern caravan of pilgrims for Mecca, and in the gains which the citizens draw from this source, together with the fresh and ardent zeal which the pilgrims bring with them and diffuse around, we may find the cause of the proverbial fanaticism of this city.
I saw a curious specimen of their superstitions the second day of our visit, while I was traversing one of the principal bazaars. The street had been well filled, but it suddenly became thronged; and turning to see the cause of this, I found a party of them leading a horse, on which was seated a young man, without any clothing, looking around him with a wild and vacant stare. He was an idiot, and was regarded by them as a saint; and they were leading him about to receive the homage of the people. As he passed slowly along, all treated him with the highest respect.
At the Mountain Mosque we took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Farran, with many sincere thanks for their kindness; and then set ourselves adrift once more
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on the broad range of Anti-Libanus: the relative of our Armenian host, however, still keeping us company and acting as a guide. Our road was considerably to the northward of the one by which we had come to Damascus; and followed up the course of the Barraday, which here, far down in a narrow glen, was spluttering impatiently among the rocks. At intervals the precipices receded from its banks, and left a level spot, which was always occupied by cottages and trees. This route across the mountain was, indeed, in fertility and beauty, the very reverse of the one by which we had come; and our ride was far more pleasant than we bad anticipated. At the distance of five or six miles from Damascus we came to the green valley which had attracted our attention a few days before, and we found here a large village quite imbedded in verdure. By noon the river had lost three fourths of its magnitude; but it still kept up a streak of verdure and of profitable cultivation amid the mountain solitudes.
The route which we were following no doubt passes over the ground occupied by the ancient highway from Damascus to Balbec, and must have been once much travelled. We passed, about noon, along the sides of a romantic and deep ravine, where the road had been cut with great labour among the rocks of calcareous tufa; and here we had for our contemplation and antiquarian speculations an ancient aqueduct, carried among and sometimes through the precipitous rocks. In the face of the
opposing cliffs were a great many openings to artificial subterranean chambers, probably in old times the dwellings of anchorites, to whose taste the wild and desolate grandeur of the place must have been well adapted. After passing several villages during the day, we came, after dark, to another at the side of a large and beautiful fountain; and here, amid the barking of dogs and the jabbering of the wondering natives, we stopped and pitched our tents under some venerable looking olive trees. The reader may form some idea of the security which we felt in these exposed encampments, when I mention that we never set a guard, or took any particular precaution with regard to our baggage; nor was a single article ever stolen.
About eight o'clock of the next day, we passed, among an amphitheatre of hills, the head waters of the Farrady, which here bursts into daylight amid a little paradise of verdure; thence our course was generally over high and barren ridges, deserted by the very insects. As we approached once more the plain of Coelo-Syria, we reached another stream, and soon after this we passed on our left the Tomb of Abel!! still in good repair. As such, at least, is regarded, both by Musselmen and Christians, a grave-shaped mound of earth, 113 feet in length. Near it are two pillars, on which Abel is said to have presented his offerings; and they tell us that yearly, in the month of December, fire descends from heaven and rests on their summit. "As I did not see this,"
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says El Devoto Perigrino, "and it is told me by Christians who are not very scrupulous, I have not given it much credit."
Proceeding on, again over bare and desolate ridges, we came, at 1 P.M. to where a gorge in the mountain obstructed our path, and casting our eyes to the left, we saw, just beyond its outlet in the plain of Coelo-Syria, a profusion of majestic ruins.
These were the temples of Balbec.
At the head of the little valley at our feet we saw also a fountain, so large and clear, and cool-looking, that it immediately acted as a magnet, and we determined to be the companions of the Naiads during our visit here. So our tents were pitched beneath some fine spreading trees, on a green island formed by the branching of the waters, a few yards from the fountain.
This fountain, called Rosalyn by the natives, is about fifty feet in diameter, and lies embosomed among gently sloping hills, the only opening being on the west of it, where the eye rests on the ruins of Balbec, and beyond them, on the snowy summits of Lebanon. Towards one side of it is a small island, on which, and also on the main land adjoining, are ruins, apparently of an ancient temple; but at present it is impossible to determine their character.
Having pitched our tents, and disposed our baggage, and cooled our feverish faces in the stream, we prepared--to visit the ruins? no, but to take a nap. And there was good philosophy in this; for he
who, after a long journey to see an interesting object, rushes up with eyes full of dust and faculties all jaded, does injustice to it, and gets but a modicum of satisfaction himself. If he would enjoy it to the full, let him first get a comfortable meal and then a little repose: the world, and every thing in it, will then be quite a different affair. If the reader's journeying has been altogether in fancy or in books, he can have no idea how much the traveller's pleasures are curtailed by these every day wants and feelings; and how often, when he expected to be in raptures, they keep him in incessant torments. "How magnificent are those ruins," says enthusiasm to him: "yes, but how burning hot this sun," says his poor, red, scaly face: “why don't you break out into rapturous exclamations at this splendid colonnade?" cry upbraidingly, reason, and taste and fancy, all combined. “Why, I can't," he groans pettishly; "don't you see my mouth is parched up with thirst, and my tongue is as dry as if it belonged to a mummy." "Come, come, look," exclaims his guide; "here, this way is something truly wonderful!” “What! away there," he answers; "why I am already almost inanimate from fatigue, my feet are blistered, and that roll down yonder precipice has left me in the state of a mere jelly."
The reader has doubtless often thought that he would like to walk the streets of the disentombed Pompeii, and has been in raptures as he imagined himself amid its remains. Yes, but let him first imagine
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himself on the way to it; for travelling does not give one the power of the magic Arabian lamp. Well, let us suppose him making the experiment of getting there. In the first place, if he does not desire the comfort of being cheated out of four times the honest price for the conveyance, he has to bargain at Naples--no, that is not the word--he has to get angry, and scold and quarrel, or at least to go through the appearance of all this, about his carriage; also about the fare to him who drives, and to him who rides behind; and perhaps about the price of the horses' feed. You start at length; and, except that in the thronged road one is in constant dread of jolts or an upset, all goes on well for a little while; but the beggars,--here they come: they mark the foreigner at a distance, and are really such pitiful objects that one's heart bleeds for them. The way up hill is occupied by the aged or by cripples, or by the blind with a boy to lead them: the level spots by the more robust: and the descent by children, who start from the side of their haggard parents, and cry “ miseracordia, famine, sickness," till your ears tingle, and your fancy is filled with all kinds of diseases and their associations. And the dust, the dust! you are now off from the paved streets of Resina, and a hundred vehicles besides your own are kicking up dust enough to satisfy the ambition of twenty Napoleons: it settles on your new coat, and fills your eyes, and sets you to sneezing; and still amid it all you hear the cry of “miseracordia," "orphans," "famine," "disease." Next comes
a long level spot, and here the beggars leave you; and now start up a dozen urchins, who seem so many Mercuries with winged feet, so rapidly do they follow your godship as you sail along in the cloud--of dust. They would pick your pockets, too, if they could. And now look at them; they turn heels over head, and making a wheel of their extended arms and legs, whirl along by your side: they make music for you by chuckling their chin with the fist; they pick up the dust, and, rubbing it all over their faces, then grin and wriggle; and look like so many imps escaped up from the flames of Vesuvius: and you try in vain to bribe them to stay behind by tossing them some money. They pick it up, and follow you for more. At last you are at the gate of Pompeii, and your carriage comes to a halt; but here, children, with all kinds of deformed limbs, crawl about, and dragging themselves to your feet, call upon you for compassion. And while you yield to pity and think you are doing a charitable act, you are filled with horror on being informed that, in the opinion of physicians who have examined them, their limbs have probably been distorted thus on purpose, in order to make them objects of charity; and that you have been only encouraging their inhuman masters in their iniquitous gains. But at length you are in the city, and you hope now to be at peace. No. You are accompanied all through it by a soldier, who tells you plainly, by his looks and by his manner of watching you, that he believes you only want an
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opportunity to turn thief and steal some of the relics; and he expects too to be paid for his strict attentions. And you will find a dozen official showmen there, expecting to be paid, and they would not be satisfied if you were to spend a fortune in presents to them. And no matter how liberal you may have been, when you go away you leave behind you faces, looking at least, as if they thought you mean. The rogues! how indignant you feel at them! And this is the strongest feeling which you carry away with you, and it ever afterwards is associated in your mind with Pompeii.
Yes, this is a plain account of a visit to Pompeii. How greatly obliged, then, are the public, to those writers who enable them to travel without the vexations of travel; and to grow sentimental or to grow wise, without growing--hungry; for I will warrant to every man by the time he gets from Pompeii to Naples, not only a good covering of dust, but a famous appetite.
And yet, I suppose the reader is scolding because I have not already set him down quietly among the ruins of Balbec, forgetting that we ourselves had yet a walk of two miles through the hot sun before we could reach them.
These ruins of Balbec, which stand here without a history and without a name, are indeed worthy of all the admiration that has been bestowed upon them. They are at one side of the present village or town of Balbec, a miserable place of a few
hundred hovels, and in no wise diverting the attention from them as we approach: its squalid appearance, perhaps, heightens their effect. They rise high above all other objects, so as to be conspicuous at a great distance; and as we approach, our wonder and admiration are mingled with sadness to think that such magnificent edifices should have been so mutilated by the hand of violence and of time; and yet this sadness increases our interest in them.
Our attention was first directed to the most perfect of the temples; but, as we entered at the wrong end of the structures, and soon got our ideas confused amid the masses of ruins, I believe the reader would rather be excused from accompanying us; so I will first state their appearance in ancient times, when there was great regularity and symmetry in them, and then describe them as they are at present.
They stood, then, on an artificial platform of stone, raised on the plain of Coelo-Syria to a height varying, according to the inequalities of the plain, from thirty to forty feet. This was about half a mile from the chain of Anti-Libanus. The platform was adapted in shape to the structures upon it, the complete length being 900 feet and the greatest width about 420. The entrance was from the east. At that end was a flight of about fifty steps, 180 feet in length: at the top of this was a range of twelve columns, each fifty-one inches in diameter, with an interval of nine and a half feet between. The visitor was admitted between them into a covered vestibule,
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250 feet in length by 36 in width; this was adorned at the extremities with square columns, while the side opposite to him was ornamented with semi-columns, and also with niches, and, above these, with tabernacles; both the latter being occupied by statues. Crossing this vestibule, he might leave it either by a large central passage or by a smaller one at each side of this, and would then find himself in an open hexagonal court, 150 feet wide and 200 at its greatest length. This court had at its sides, on his right and left, four exedrae, or chambers for schools, open in front, and ornamented each with four columns and pilasters: the intervals between these were taken up with chambers for the high priests and with niches for statues. The whole court was thus surrounded by columns and pilasters, except in the front. In this part was a passage 78 feet wide, with two side passages, giving admittance into the great court of the temple. This court was 380 feet square, and, except in the front and at the entrance, was surrounded by square exedrae, alternating with others of a semi-circular shape: the former had each four columns and two pilasters, and the latter two columns with pilasters at their front. At the entrance into this court were colossal niches, and at the angles were chambers for the priests.
The great temple, which stood at the further end of this court, and facing the visitor as he entered, was 290 feet long by 160 in width. It had ten columns at each end, and nineteen at each of the
sides;* they were seven feet in diameter, and the details of the whole edifice were of the same colossal proportions: they allowed eight feet ten inches for the intervals between the columns. There are still remaining three rows of stones, supporting the platform on which this temple stands, which are of remarkable dimensions. In the lowest tier they measure severally 35, 33, 32, 31, and 38 feet in length; with a height of thirteen feet and a breadth of ten feet five inches, exclusive of their mouldings. In the second row, which is twenty-seven feet from the ground, they are generally of the same size, but here are three measuring 64, 64, and 63 feet in length, with their other dimensions to correspond. In the quarry on the side of the mountain adjoining this, is a stone cut loose, that measures seventy feet in length by fourteen in width, and fourteen feet five inches in depth: the weight of this is estimated at 1,135 tons.
Of this colossal temple, nine of the columns of one side, with a portion of their entablature, are all that now remains: its foundations may still be traced, and a few huge fragments are scattered about; but if it was ever completed, it has served as a quarry for more modern structures, perhaps for some that were erected by Constantine, for its area and the environs are pretty well cleared: but the great columns, standing thus naked and alone, pro
* Or was intended to have, for it is doubtful whether this temple was ever finished.
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duce a very powerful effect. Of the ranges of exedrae, columns, &c., which formed the sides of the square and hexagonal courts, and of the vestibule, there are still large remains; but so broken and defaced by time and human violence, that it is often difficult to ascertain their shape or proportions. The ground is covered over with their ruins. In one corner of the square court are some large columns of the red Egyptian granite: they are of peculiar beauty, and though they have been exposed to the weather for so many centuries, their polish has scarcely been at all affected.
It is sad to walk over this great platform and mark the desolations that have been wrought amid such architectural beauty. A few yards, however, from this is a temple of the same age, still almost perfect, and probably the most splendid specimen of the Corinthian order of architecture that the world now can boast. It stands also on a platform of stone, and was reached by a stair-way of thirty-two steps: it is about twenty-five feet from the southwest angle of the great court just described, and also faces the east. It is peripteral; that is, with a range of columns quite around, and has also another range at the front, forming a vestibule: the length is 280 feet, the breadth 122. There were fifteen columns on each side and eight in front (the angular columns counted twice), or forty-two in all; to which we are to add eight for the vestibule, six in front and one at each side. Of these, thirty-three are now entire
and erect, and nine in a ruinous condition; the eight front columns are missing, but those of the vestibule remain. The sides of the interior were also ornamented with half columns, six on each side; between these were niches for statues, with ornamented lacunari (arched coverings), and above the niches were tabernacles, also for statues. The further end was occupied by a platform, reached by a broad flight of fifteen steps, and on this was placed the statue of their divinity. The interior is also in tolerably good preservation. This temple belongs to the florid age of architecture; its ornaments are exuberant and exceedingly rich; the doorway is decorated with vines and foliage, amid which children are sporting; the pannels of the ceiling are occupied by figures of gods and goddesses in relief; in short, Sculpture has here joined her graver sister Architecture, and they have worked together harmoniously, and have produced--what is very seldom produced--a building where great exuberance of ornament is united with delicacy, and chasteness, and simplicity. This building is, indeed, a gem in the art.
South-eastward from these, at the distance of about 300 yards, is a pretty little thing, though of more objectionable taste. It is a temple, circular within, the diameter being thirty-two feet. It is on an ornamented platform or substructure, and the floor was reached by a flight of about fifteen steps; the front presents this flight of steps and a large
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door-way, with two Corinthian columns at each side. The rest of the exterior is formed by a succession of great niches for statues, five in number, with a Corinthian column at the sharp angles between them. The exterior diameter of the building, from column to column, is sixty-four feet. The interior is highly ornamented, and has a double range of semi-columns one above the other, one range Ionic, the other Corinthian. This little temple answers very well by way of variety, and for employing the power of contrast; and is placed just at the proper distance from the other colossal structures to make the effect very good. Winding around its foundations, and murmuring amid its broken, prostrate columns, is the clear brook from the fountain of Rosalyn. As we listened to the sound of its waters, we could almost imagine it to be the voice of pure and holy Nature chanting the dirge of the unhallowed worship that once was prevalent here.
It is very strange that, in order to learn the origin and design of these splendid structures we are compelled to turn over a variety of ancient books; and that, after all, the information we glean is sufficient only to tantalize, and not to satisfy our curiosity. Its whole amount, I believe to be as follows:
Macrobius informs us that
“In the city called Heliopolis* the Assyrians worship the Sun with great pomp, under the name of Heliopolitan Jove; and the
*"City of the Sun"--the Greek name of Balbec. Balbec is Syriac, and means the Vale of Baal. Balbeit signifies the House of Baal.
statue of this god was brought from a city in Egypt, also called Heliopolis, when Senemur or Senepos reigned over the Egyptians, by Opias, ambassador of Delebon, king of the Assyrians, together with some Egyptian priests, of whom Partemetis was the chief; and it remained long among the Assyrians before it was removed to Heliopolis. * * The statue is of gold, representing a person without a beard, who holds in his right hand a whip, charioteer-like, and in his left a thunderbolt, together with ears of corn; all which mark the united powers of Jupiter and the Sun."
From this he infers that the divinity was both Jupiter and the Sun: he adds that the temple excelled in divination, and that Trajan consulted it about his Parthian expedition. Macrob. Saternalia, lib. 1.
Lucian, who was a native of Syria, speaks of a great and ancient temple in Phoenicia, the rites of whose worship were brought from Heliopolis in Egypt; and adds, that “many persons assert that this temple was erected by Deucalion, the Scythian; that Deucalion, in whose days the grand inundation of waters took place."
All this refers to this spot and to the origin of these temples, but not to these temples themselves the structure to which Lucian refers being evidently of more ancient date. The first clear and authentic information which we have of the edifices now standing, are in John of Antioch, surnamed Malala; who says, that Aurelius Antoninus Pius erected a great temple to Jupiter at Heliopolis, near Libanus in Phoenicia, which was one of the wonders of the world.
The Chronicon Paschale informs us, that Theo-
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dosius converted the great and famous temple of Heliopolis into a Christian church.*
The florid architecture of these edifices corresponds exactly to the times of the Antonines; and I think we are at liberty to infer, from what we can gather on this subject, that there was here, in very ancient times, a famous temple, containing the statue of Jupiter Igneous, if I may use the term; and that its celebrity led the first of the Antonines, who distinguished himself by building up decaying cities, to erect these vast and beautiful structures. Close adjoining them on the south, is a dark, heavy, and ancient looking building, without windows, and composed of stones, pannelled like those which I saw at the foot of Mount Moriah; and this may, perhaps, be the original temple noticed by Lucian.
The modern Balbec contains about 200 houses. It is protected by a low wall, but not more than half the enclosure is occupied by the dwellings, which are small and miserable looking hovels. As we were leaving the ruins in the evening, we received an invitation from the Pasha to make him a visit, which the lateness of the hour led us to decline. But his house was adjoining our road back to the fountain; and on approaching it, we found the gates wide open, and a train of attendants marshalled for our reception; so there was no help for us, and our party entering, filled his little hall of audience. He seemed
*Vide "The Ruins of Balbec," by Robert Wood.
disposed to be sociable, and regaled us with pipes, coffee, and apples; and we regretted that our time would not permit a longer visit.
It was now dark, and on leaving his house we found that he had had the politeness to have torches provided for us. They consisted of bits of pine, piled up in small baskets made of iron hoops, and elevated at the end of a long pole. As we wound around or over the undulations of the valley, the effect of the broad lights and shadows, the dancing waters in the pebbly brook by our side, and the oriental costume of the natives, numbers of whom were accompanying us, was very fine.
During the day some other travellers, in the native costume, stopped for an hour or two by our fountain. We had no conversation with them, but were afterwards informed that they were probably the French Marshal Bourmont and some friends, travelling in disguise.
September 6. We stopped again, an hour or two, at the ruins, and then commenced re-crossing the plain of Coelo-Syria, directing our course transversly so as to strike our former route over Mount Lebanon. Had our time permitted, we should have visited the cedars of Lebanon, which are about half way between Balbec and Tripoli; but as the autumn was advancing, and the Commodore was anxious to get away from this unknown coast, the project was relinquished. Mr. Chassaud was good enough, however, afterwards to procure some of the wood for us, and
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to forward it by way of Marseilles to our wintering station at Mahon. I have had my portion of it cut into veneers, which are greatly admired by cabinet makers, both for the color and odour of the wood; the interior of the block is of a golden yellow color, and some portions, which are sprinkled over with small black specks or knots, are very beautiful. The number of the old trees has been gradually diminishing since the mountain first began to be visited by travellers, and but seven or eight are now remaining. The largest of these are ninety feet in height, and they have in one or two cases a circumference of forty feet; which, however, like that of the great chesnut on Mount Etna, is not the circuit of a single tree, but of the generation that has grown around the original trunk. The natives have an annual religious festival beneath these venerable fathers of the forest. There are groves of a younger growth around these, containing altogether about 400 trees. A fine large tree of this species may be seen in the garden of plants at Paris; and in Mr. Prince's garden at Flushing is a young one also, in a flourishing condition.
About half way across the plain, we came to another large fountain, and smaller ones occurred at intervals; but the ride was wearisome enough: in the whole distance we passed not a house, nor a tree, nor a speck of cultivation; a withering and blighting influence has been for ages upon all this region. About three o'clock, we reached the village of Zahle,
at the foot of Lebanon. It has rather a modern appearance, having grown up lately in consequence of some violence and exactions on the other side of the plain, from which the inhabitants have taken refuge under the wing of the princes of Lebanon. It is quite refreshing to an American traveller to see a modern town, and this of Zahle is also particularly pleasing from its situation. It is built on unequal, broken ground, and is bordered on one side by a deep, shaded ravine, along the bottom of which dashes a torrent, singing and making melody in its joyful course. We found near its banks a convenient spot for satisfying our now ravenous appetites, and then, although we had no ruins to inspect afterwards, we again sought the reviving effects of a nap.
And well it was for us that we did so, for we were destined on the following night to have no repose. Having travelled on from Zahle in the coolness of the evening, we came at dusk to our breakfasting place of the 2d., and here determined to pitch our tents. But that was to be a night of fighting and not of sleep.
There is a set of natives on this mountain, the most thievish beings in all the country, with the reputation also of being blood-thirsty and merciless, and waiting to pounce upon every unprotected traveller that may come in their way. They are a small race, but are said to be numerous; and the traveller across these mountains must be on his guard, or he will be very apt to be plundered by them.
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They carry a concealed dagger, with which they are very expert, and which they do not hesitate to use when there is occasion for it. They are cowardly, and seldom make their attacks except in covert places or by night: and their cunning and malevolence are said to be equal to their cowardice. We had met them occasionally, and had generally been on our guard; but there seemed to be no particular danger this night, and we took no unusual precautions.
But they were lying herein ambush; and we had scarcely blown out our lights, and wrapped ourselves in our blankets for repose, when they made a sudden attack--how many there were, we could not tell in the darkness, but their number must have been very great. We sprung up, and seizing such weapons as were handiest, repelled our assailants, and forced them to a speedy retreat; but not before several wounds had been given and received. I think it probable that some of the enemy were killed. And now we sat down to consult upon the best mode of preventing another attack. Some advised shifting our encampment; some concluded to sit up; and others, amid the confusion of counsel, again yielded to drowsiness, and tried once more to seek repose. But hope of repose was vain: we carried on a skirmishing with them all night, and, notwithstanding our resistance, many of the enemy in the dark succeeded in carrying off the plunder, which was their object.
I should certainly caution all travellers over Mount
Lebanon against pitching their tents, as we had done, in an old stubble field swarming with fleas.
As may be supposed, we made an early start on the morrow. Our journey back offered nothing new, and after stopping to pay our respects to Mr. and Mrs. Smith, and to thank them for their kindness, we picked our way down the mountain, and towards evening took up, once more, our quarters in the Delaware.
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CHAPTER XXV.
Sensation produced by the Delaware. Effect of this visit on the cause of Missions in Syria. Service on the Sabbath on board, and the crowds attending. Crowds attracted by this ship during
her whole cruise. Appearance of the ship. Her effect on the visitors. Progress of free principles throughout the world. The cause of humanity secure. Our own Country, and its prosperity. Adieu to the reader.
WE found, that during our absence the ship, having taken in water, had changed her anchorage, and was now lying abreast of the city, and but a short distance off. A vessel of her class had never appeared along this part of the coast before; and on her arrival she immediately began to attract observation. A few of the citizens visited her, and found no difficulty in getting admittance on board: they carried news of this to the shore; other visitors came; her fame soon spread far and wide; and in a short time she was all the rage. Mr. Chassaud's house was thronged by applicants for tickets of admission (the impression having gone abroad that they were useful), and the street to it was so crowded, that it was often difficult to get along. He computed the number who visited the ship here at 40,000; but, although this was perhaps above the reality, it was still prodigious. Some persons came
two days' journey simply for this purpose; and the city was thronged to such a degree, that provisions rose to double their former price. They came, old men, women and children, Druses and Mahommedans, princes and laborers: all seemed to be seized by the mania; and, until the day of our leaving (the 11th of September), there was a constant throng from early in the morning till dusk. Such a sensation had probably never been produced here before by any object of curiosity.
I believe our visit has been beneficial to the interesting mission at this place. Mr. Bird, at my request, preached on board on the first Sunday of our stay here, and Mr. Smith on the second; and during the latter service, the visitors from shore were suffered to be present. Generally, visiting was not permitted on the Sabbath till public worship had been concluded; but on this occasion they were admitted, and allowed to stay; and when the crew were called up to worship, they came up also to witness the services. Our upper deck has a clear sweep of 225 feet in length: the whole is covered by an awning, elevated twelve or fifteen feet, with side pieces of canvass reaching down to the hammock-cloths, and thus forming a complete chamber. The poop-deck, on this occasion, is occupied chiefly by the band in their uniform: the officers stand by the capstan, and from this aft, on the starboard side: the larboard side is occupied, in front, by the ship's
boys with prayer-books; then by the marines in
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full uniform; and, back of these, by the seamen, who also stretch along by the mainmast on either side. All are in their “first best" clothes; and our ship on these occasions presents an air of thorough cleanliness and neatness which, I do not hesitate to say, I have never yet seen a church on shore present. Mr. Smith's discourse was suited to the occasion, and was listened to by officers and seamen with deep interest; and I have no doubt that the scene made an impression on the minds of the mountaineers which will materially advance the success of the mission.
Probably no ship has ever floated on the water that has attracted so much attention, or drawn so many visitors, as the Delaware during this cruise. The number of visitors, I think, may be safely estimated at about 200,000. At Naples, at Palermo, and at this place particularly, there was a constant throng from morning till night. No one was denied admittance; they were allowed to go freely through the ship, and, when the Commodore or Captain were absent, were admitted also into their cabins. At Naples the visitors were from all parts of Europe, a very large portion of them being from the interior of Germany. They saw a vessel, not only effective as regards her battery, but everywhere showing a neatness and a completeness of finish that must have astonished them. This ship, like some others of our seventy-four's, has a deceptive appearance at a distance, seeming to be smaller than she is, and
less effective. When they got on board, they found a battery of ninety-four guns, the greater portion of them of the largest calibre; the decks high and wide, and in every part scrupulously clean; and a sufficient attention to ornament, which was all, however, made subservient to the main design of efficiency. She is a very powerful ship, and so she appeared on inspection; and was also a very handsome vessel. The most perfect order also prevailed in every part. The impression which she gave must have been a favorable one; and I believe that the Delaware, in this cruise, did more towards advancing the rights of man, than if she had come home with a dozen captures of bulk and power equal to her own. Around the world the voice of freedom and of humanity is beginning to make itself heard. In many places it is only a still small voice, but it is yet heard; and though people often scarcely know what it means, yet there is a feeling in their breasts that more or less responds, and tells them that what it says is the truth. They have heard, too, that there is a republic somewhere, in a distant land,--a country of free principles and equal rights. They cannot tell how the system operates; but this system, as far as they know it, is a beautiful one, and they would like greatly to know more of it. A ship comes among them from that far country, and their vague floating visions now take a more substantial form. It is a vessel bearing signs of wealth and power, marked by good order and efficiency: the
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country that has sent out this ship must be wealthy and prosperous, enterprising and successful. This is the lesson which is taught by all our ships wherever they go; and taught in a manner that is intelligible to the lowest capacity.
And to this noble and glorious cause of humanity we bid prosperity and success. Yes,--may Heaven sustain and bless it! I am not a politician, but I hope I am a philanthropist; and, next to religion, I love my country and its institutions, for I believe that in them is the regenerating principle that is going to awaken and vivify the world. These plains that we have just been passing over, abounding in a rich soil and under a prolific sky, why are they not cultivated? But they will be cultivated, and this people here will be intelligent and intellectual: the mind will rouse up, and claim its high pre-eminence; woman will be elevated to her proper lofty sphere; brute force will yield to moral power; and smiling plenty, and security, and happiness, will prevail; and from our country will come the power that is to effect this mighty change.
It is good sometimes to get far off from our land, so that as from an elevated spot, we may look over the whole country; and, away from the influence of local prejudice, and interest, and alarms, may scrutinize our institutions and examine into their permanency, and see what strengthening and what counteracting influences are at work to promise them security. For myself, I have no fear for them.