38 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
XLIII.–THE POOL OF SILOE.
Farther south, at the foot of the mountain, is the Pool of Siloe, where Christ opened the eyes of the blind man.
XLIV.–THE POTTER'S FIELD.
At the foot of the same Mount Sion is the Potter's Field, which they bought, with Christ as the price, for a burying-place for strangers; it is on the other side of the valley, below Mount Sion and south of that mountain. There are many caverns cut in its sides; and in these caverns are tombs1 quite ready, and beautifully cut in the rock.
They bury foreign travellers here free of charge, and will not allow anything to be taken away from this sacred place, because it was bought with Christ's blood.2
XLV.–BETHLEHEM.
The holy city of Bethlehem is six versts south of the holy Jerusalem; and it is two versts by the plain to the place where Abraham dismounted from his animal.3 Leaving his young servant there with the ass, Abraham took his son for the sacrifice, and told him to carry the wood and the fire. Then Isaac said to him, 'Father, behold the wood and the fire, but where is the offering?' and Abraham answered, 'My son, God, will show us the lamb' (Gen. xxii. 7, 8). And Isaac4 joyfully followed the road leading to Jerusalem, and was brought to the same place where Christ was afterwards crucified. It is only a verst thence to the spot where the holy virgin saw two men, one of whom wept and the other laughed. A5 church and a
1
'Now,' K.5
'Large,' Mac.39 IN THE HOLY LAND.
monastery had been built on this place1 and dedicated to the holy Virgin, but they are now destroyed by the infidels. Thence to the sepulchre of Rachel, the mother of Joseph, it is two versts.
XLVI–THE CAVERN WHERE THE HOLY VIRGIN GAVE BIRTH TO CHRIST.
A2 verst farther on is the place where the holy Virgin, feeling the pains of labour, got down from her ass; there is a large stone there, upon which she rested after dismounting. She afterwards continued her journey on foot as far as the sacred cavern; and it was in that cavern that she gave birth to Christ. The distance from this stone to the place of the Nativity of Christ is that of a good bow-shot.3
XLVII.–THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY OF CHRIST.
A large church in the form of a cross, with a wooden roof, rises above the grotto of the Nativity. The roof is entirely covered with tin (lead?), and the interior is ornamented with pictures in mosaic. It has fifty4 monolithic marble columns, and is paved with white marble slabs. There are threes doors. Its length to the great altar is 506 sagénes, its breadth 20.7 Under the great altar are the grotto and the manger where Christ's nativity took place, forming a fine and spacious cavern; you descend by seven steps to the door of the holy grotto, which has two entrances, to each of which you descend by seven steps. On entering the holy grotto by the
1
The legend is from the Protevangelium of James xvii. The exact site of this holy place is not now known.2
'Two,' Mo.3
'As far as a strong man can throw a small stone,' Mac. Mo.4
According to K. S. R.; 'eight' according to other MSS.5
'Two,' D.6
'Eight,' D., Ou., Mac. Mo. F., S. R.; 'thirty,' T.7
'Fifty,'. K; 'Eight,' S. R.
40 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
east1 door you see on the left hand, upon the floor, the place where Christ, our God, was born; above is an altar upon which they celebrate mass.
XLVIII.–CHRIST'S MANGER.
The place [of the Nativity] is on the east side, and opposite, a little to the right,2 is the manger of Christ underneath a rocK3 of stone on the west4 side; and it was in this sacred manger that Christ, our God, was placed wrapped in poor swaddling clothes–He who suffered for our salvation. These two places–that of the Nativity and that of the manger–are quite close to one another, being only three sagénes apart, and in the same cavern, which is covered with mosaics and well paved. Beneath the church are caverns in which rest the remains of many saints. In going out of5 the church there is to the right6 a7 deep cavern underneath the church where the remains of the Holy Innocents were buried, and whence they8 have been conveyed to Constantinople. A high wall surrounds the Church. The place of the Nativity was situated upon an uninhabited and desert mountain, which is now encircled by walls, and indicates the place of Christ's nativity, which they call 'Bethlehem.' Ancient Bethlehem was a little in front of the actual place of Christ's nativity, and there, at the present day, is a stylite and the resting stone of the holy Virgin. Here was the ancient Bethlehem.
1
This should be 'north,' the two entrances being north and south of each other; there are now 16 steps from the former and 13 from the latter entrance.2
'To the left,' Sf.3
'Slab,' R.5
'On entering,' F.6
'To the south,' Mac. Possibly the entrance to the northern branch of the cavern was at that time by the stairs (now closed) leading to the Chapel of St. Jerome, and situated outside the north wall of the Basilica.7
'Another,' Mac. Mo.8
'Half of them,'. Mac Mo.41 IN THE HOLY LAND.
All the country round is called Ephrata, land of Judah, of which the prophet1 said, 'And thou, Bethlehem, land of Judah, thou art not the least amongst the principal cities of Judah, for out of thee shall go forth the leader who will lead My people Israel' (Micah v. 2). The environs of Bethlehem are mountainous and very beautiful; the lower slopes of the mountains are clothed with fruit trees; olive, fig, and carob-trees are innumerable; vineyards abound near Bethlehem, and there are many fertile fields in the valleys.
Not far from the Church of the Nativity, outside the walls, a bow-shot2 to the south, there is a large grotto excavated in the mountain in which the holy Virgin dwelt3 with Christ, and Joseph.4
XLIX.–THE HOUSE OF JESSE, FATHER OF DAVID.
A bow-shot east of Bethlehem there is a place named Bethel;5 the house of Jesse, father of David, was there; and it was in that house that Samuel the prophet anointed David King of Israel, in place of Saul.
L.–DAVID'S WELL.
There, too, is David's well–the water of which he at one time desired to drink, near the place where the angels announced to the shepherds the birth of Christ. A verst eastward from the place of the Nativity, in the plain, is the spot at the foot of the mountain where the holy angels
1
'Micah,' Mac. S.3
' For two years,' Mac. Mo.4
'After the Nativity of Christ,' K. S. R. The German translation adds; "and to the same grotto the Magi came with gifts, and there they adored Christ. From this grotto Christ fled into Egypt with his mother and Joseph," Z. D. P. V. vii. 41. The grotto alluded to is apparently the 'Milk Grotto' near Bethlehem.5
The German translation has 'Bithir'; possibly the place intended is Beit Sahur, near the 'Shepherd's Field.'42 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
announced Christ's birth to the shepherds. There was a cavern there which was surmounted by a beautiful church named after St. Joseph, and at its side was a fine monastery; these have now been destroyed by the infidels. This place is situated in the midst of a beautiful plain where the fields are very fertile and where the olives are very abundant. They call this plain Agiapimina1– that is to say, 'sacred pasture-ground.' The Laura of St. Sabbas owns land there2 at the foot of the mountain, on the Bethlehem side.
LI.–THE CAVERN3 AND THE OAK OF MAMRE.
Hebron, the double cavern, and the oak of Mamre are south of Bethlehem. It is 284 versts from Jerusalem to Hebron, the road passing by Bethlehem, to which they reckon it six versts; and it is three5 versts from this city to the river of Etham. It is of this river that the prophet David says in the Psalter, 'Thou hast dried up the rivers of Etham: Thine is the day, and the night is also Thine' (Ps. 1xxiv. 15, I6). .
The bed of the river is dry at the present day, [but] it flows underground and reappears near the Sea of Sodom, into which it flows. On the other side of the stream there is a high rocky mountain covered with a large thick forest6; the road over this frightful mountain is dangerous. The Saracens profit by this pass to fall upon those who risk the danger in small numbers. As for me, God provided for me a good and numerous company, and I
1
{xxxx}The 'shepherd's field' appears to have been shown in the same position, east of Bethlehem, from the 4th century. Pil. Of Holy Paula, Eng. ed., p. 8.2
'Beside it,' Mac. K S. R.3
'Hebron,' F.4
'Twenty-two,' F.43 IN THE HOLY LAND.
was able to cross this terrible place without hindrance. It is not far from the1 town of Ascalon, from which the infidels sally forth in large numbers and assail travellers in this pass. It was upon this mountain and in this forest that Absalom, the son of David, was killed; he was flying before the armies of his father, and his mule carried him into the thickest part of the forest; a branch having caught him by the hair, he remained hanging to the tree, and received three darts in his heart; and it was thus that he died on the tree.2
They reckon 10 versts thence to the3 'Well of Alliance' of Abraham, and 6 versts from this well to the oak of Mamre.
LII.–THE SAME SUBJECT.
This sacred oak stands upon a high mountain close to the road on the right hand, and is a splendid sight. Around its roots God has paved the ground with white marble like the floor of a church; and it is wonderful to see this sacred oak rising from the midst of those stones. The summit of the mountain round the tree is open ground without stones, and it was close to this oak, towards the east, that Abraham's tent was erected. The oak is not very high, but it is very knotty, well supplied with branches, and laden with fruit. The branches hang so low that a man standing up can reach them from the ground. Its circumference, as measured by myself,4 is two sagénes, and the height of the trunk up to the first branch
1
'Saracen town,' F.3
'Good,' Mac. Mo., F. K S. R. The 'Well of Alliance' is apparently 'Ain edh Dhirweh, now the traditional 'Fountain of the Eunuch.'4
'With my arms,' Mac. Mo.
44 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSS/AN ABBOT DANIEL
1½ sagénes. One cannot but marvel at this tree, which has crowned that high mountain for so many centuries, and neither decayed nor rotted, but still remains firm, protected by God, as if it had just been planted. It is beneath this oak that the Holy Trinity appeared to the Patriarch Abraham, and did eat with him; and there the Holy Trinity blessed Abraham and Sara his wife in their old age, granting them a son, Isaac.1 The Trinity also showed Abraham the spring, which to the present day forms a well at the foot of the mountain close to the road. All the country round the oak is called Mamre, and this is why the oak is called the oak of Mamre. They reckon two versts thence to Hebron.
LIII.–THE MOUNTAIN OF HEBRON.
Hebron is a high mountain upon which there was a large town, very well fortified, with very ancient buildings; a large population formerly inhabited this mountain, but it is now waste.2 The first inhabitant of the mountain of Hebron was Canaan, son of Ham, and grandson of Noah, who came after the Deluge and the building of the Tower of Babel; he peopled all the country round Hebron, and it was therefore called the land of Canaan. This is the land which God promised to Abraham when he was in Mesopotamia, at Haran, where was the house of his father, And God said to Abraham, 'Go forth from thy country and thy father's house, and get thee into the land of Canaan; I will give that land to thee and thy posterity for ever, and I will be with thee' (Gen. xii. I). At present this land is
1
The place alluded to by Daniel is Rámet el Khulíl, near Heron, P. E. F. Mem. iii. 316, 322.2
Sæwulf, 1102 A.D., states that the city had been destroyed; and Benjamin of Tudela, 1163 A.D., says, 'The ancient city was situated on the hill, and lies in ruins at present.'
45 IN THE HOLY LAND.
truly the land promised by God, and endowed by Him with all good things. Wheat, vines, olives, and all kinds of vegetables, grow in abundance; cattle are numerous; sheep and other animals bring forth twice a year; large numbers of bees make their hives in the rocks of these beautiful mountains; their slopes are covered with vineyards, and with an infinite number of fruit trees; olives, fig, carob, apple, cherry and other trees, and all kinds of vegetables, which are better and larger than those of the rest of the earth; no place under the sky equals it. The water in this country is excellent and agrees with everyone; and all the environs of Hebron are distinguished by their beauty and indescribable fertility. On the mountain of Hebron also was the house of David, in which he lived eight years, when he was driven out by his son Absalom. The double cavern of Abraham is only half a verst from Hebron; it is cut in the rock, and contains the graves of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. This double cavern Abraham bought from Ephron the Hittite, as a burial-place for all his posterity, when he came out of Mesopotamia into the land of Canaan; and this double cavern, which he bought as a place of burial for himself and his family, was his first acquisition. A small and solid enceinte now surrounds the cavern; it is ingeniously built of large dressed-stones, forming high walls; the cavern is within the enceinte, and the whole enclosure is paved with white marble slabs. Underneath this pavement1 is hewn the cavern where lie Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and all his children, and their wives, Sarah, and Rebecca,2 but not Rachel, who is buried beside the Bethlehem road. These sepulchres are separate from the other within the cavern, and each is surmounted by a small round
1
According to D. R.; 'bridge' after other MSS.2
'And Leah,' Mac. Mo., F. K. S. R.
46 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
chapel. Abraham's sepulchre and that of Sarah, his wife, are side by side; so also are those of Isaac and his wife Rebecca, and of Jacob and his wife Leah.1
LIV.–THE TOMB OF JOSEPH.
The tomb of Joseph the 'well favoured' is outside the building, a stone's-throw from the double cavern; and this place bears at the present day the name of 'Saint Abraham.' Near this spot, a verst from the double cavern towards the south, is a high mountain which the Holy Trinity ascended with Abraham, who had accompanied them from the oak of Mamre. On the summit of this mountain there is a very beautiful place where Abraham, prostrating himself on the ground, adored the Holy Trinity, and offered the following prayer.2
LV–ABRAHAM'S PRAYER.
'Lord, wilt Thou ruin the righteous with the unrighteous? If there are fifty just men in Sodom, wilt Thou not spare the city on account of the fifty just ones?' The Lord replied, 'If I find in all Sodom fifty just men, I will pardon the city for their sakes.' Prostrating himself anew before God, Abraham said, 'If there are thirty just persons in Sodom, wilt Thou not pardon all the city?' And the Lord answered, 'If I find thirty just persons in Sodom I will not destroy the city.' Having prostrated himself
1
See the descriptions of Sæwulf and Benjamin of Tudela in Early Travels in Palestine, pp. 45 and 86. The latter appears to have visited the caverns which are said to have been opened in June, 1119 A.D. The evidence relating to the discovery of the caves in 1119 has been collected by Cte. Riant, Archives de L'Orient Latin, ii. 411–421 The church, now a Mosque, and the quadrangular buildings over the supposed tombs had apparently not been built at the date of Daniel's visit.2
Now Beni Nâim, east of Hebron, not south, as in the text; it is the Caphar Barucha of Jerome. See Pil. of Holy Paula, Eng. ed., p. 10, note 2.
47 IN THE HOLY LAND.
before God, Abraham said, 'Lord, very merciful and patient to our sins, be not angry with Thy servant if I speak again: if there are fifteen just persons in Sodom, wilt Thou not, O Lord, pardon the whole city for the sake of these fifteen?' And the Lord answered, 'If I find fifteen just persons in Sodom I will not destroy the city, nor even if I find five.' And Abraham was silent, and dare not reply (Gen. xviii.). It is from this mountain that the Holy Trinity sent two angels to Sodom to make Lot, Abraham's nephew, flee from the city. It was there1 that Abraham offered a sacrifice to God, throwing grain into the fire. This place is therefore called 'The Sacrifice of Abraham.' It is situated at a considerable height, and from it the whole country of Canaan can be viewed.
From the 'Sacrifice of Abraham' to the Valley of Greznowa it is one verst, as also from the Valley of Greznowa to the threshing-floor of Anatolia.2
LVI.–THE SEPULCHRE OF LOT AT SIGOR.
Thence to Sigor it is two versts. Lot's sepulchre and that of his two daughters are to be seen there; they are two separate sepulchres. In this mountain there is a large cavern, in which Lot took refuge with his daughters; also the remains of a city of the first inhabitants of this country; it was situated on the heights of this mountain, and the place is3 called Sigor. A verst4 from Sigor, towards the south, on an elevation, there is a stone column, which is Lot's wife. It is two versts thence to Sodom. I have seen all this with my own eyes, but I could not go to the place5 of Sodom for fear of the infidels; the faithful
1
'That the Holy Trinity disappeared from Abraham and,' R. Ar. K.2
Norov omits this sentence; the places cannot be identified.3
'Now,' R.4
'Half a verst,' D.5
'As far as the sea,' F. Daniel appears to place Zoar and Sodom to the west of the Dead Sea.
48 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
prevented me from going there, saying, 'There is nothing good for you to see there; it will only be painful for you, because a fetid smell prevails there which will make you ill.' In consequence we returned to 'Saint Abraham,' and, protected by God's mercy, reached the enceinte of the double cavern in good health. We reverenced these holy places, and rested there for two days. Thank God we found a large company setting out for Jerusalem; we joined it, and made the journey together joyfully and without fear. Thus we arrived in safety at the holy city of Jerusalem, and praised God who had permitted us unworthy ones to visit those places, whose sanctity cannot be described in any way, neither by words nor in writing.
1
South of Bethlehem2 the Monastery of St. Chariton3 is situated upon the river of Etham already mentioned. It is not far from the Lake of Sodom, in the midst of rocky mountains, and in a desert place. This place is terrible and arid, being absolutely destitute of water;4 a frightful rocky gorge lies at its feet. The monastery was surrounded by walls, and within the enceinte are two churches, the largest of which contains the tomb of St. Chariton. Outside the walls there is a large sepulchral cave, containing the remains of the holy fathers who rest there to the number of more than seven hundred.5 Amongst others are the remains of St. Cyriacus the Confessor, whose body is in a perfect state of preservation; and of John and Arcadius, the6 sons of Xenophon, which exhale a wonder-1
'A few days afterwards we went to the Monastery of St. Chariton,' Mac. Mo., F. T. A.2
'And five versts distant,' F. K S. R.3
Now Khirbet el Khureitún, between the Frank mountain and Tekoa. See P. F. Mem. iii. 357, and Z. D. P. V. iii. 37.4
'The Monastery of St. Chariton rises majestically in the midst of rocky mountains,' Mac. Mo. F.5
'Five hundred,' Mac. Mo.; 'eight hundred,' T.6
'Two,' Mac. Ar. K. S. R.
49 IN THE HOLY LAND.
ful perfume. We rendered honour to this holy place, and climbed thel mountain a verst south of the convent.
There is a smooth place in a field,2 whence the angel carried off the holy prophet Habakkuk as he was taking food and drink to the harvesters, and brought him to Babylon, into the (lion's) den of the prophet Daniel.3 After having satisfied the hunger and quenched the thirst of this latter, he was again carried back, the same day and in the same hour, to the harvesters, to whom he gave their dinner. A kind of chapel has been built on this spot in memory of the miracle. Babylon is forty days' journey from it.4 Near this place there is also a large church with a roof of wood, dedicated to the holy prophets. Under the church there is a large cavern, where lie in three chests the remains of twelve prophets–Habakkok, Nahum,5 Micah, Ezekiah,6 Abdias,7 Zachariah, Ezekiel, Ismael, Saved, Baruch, Amos, and Hosea.8 On the neighbouring mountain there is a very large village; it is inhabited by a considerable number of Saracens and Christians. It is the village where the holy prophets were born, and their home.9 We passed a night there, protected by God's grace, and were very well received by the Christians dwelling
1
'High,' F.2
'On a mountain,' Mo.; 'to the left,' K. S. R. 'Habakkuk's place' has been variously located at different periods; the various sites assigned to it are given by Tobler, Topog. ii. 573-575. It is now shown near Mar Elyas, by the road from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, and the legend is given by Liévin, Guide, 331.3
'And it is 2065 versts from Jerusalem to Babylon,' Mac. Mo.4
'Travelling quickly,' Mac. Mo.5
'Joel,' K. S. R.6
'Ezekial,' K. S.50 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
there. After a good night's rest, we rose early, in order to proceed to Bethlehem. The Saracen chief, armed, escorted us as far as Bethlehem, and accompanied us everywhere: without him we could not have traversed those places, on account of the large number of Saracens who carry on brigandage in the mountains. Thus we arrived happily at the holy town of Bethlehem; and after havig adored the place of Christ's nativity, we spent the night there, and returned rejoicing to the holy city of Jerusalem.
LVII.–THE PLACE WHERE DAVID KILLED GOLIATH.
Close to Jerusalem, a bow-shot east of the Tower of David, is the place where David killed Goliath. It is in a plain near a cistern,1 and beautiful cornfields are to be seen there now.
A bow-shot thence is the cavern in which rest the remains of many holy martyrs, who suffered at Jerusalem, in the reign of Heraclius. This place is called Agia Mamilla.2
LVIII.–THE PLACE WHERE THE TREE OF THE HOLY CROSS GREW.
It is a verst from this place to that of the Holy Cross, situated to the west of Jerusalem, behind a mountain. It was there that they cut the stem of the Cross, to which were nailed the Divine feet of our Lord Jesus Christ. This place Isis encircled by walls, in the midst of which rises a
1
'Near a wall,' F. Dr. Guthe suggests a connexion between this place and Kal'lat Jalúd, Goliath's Castle at the northwest angle of the city walls, Z. D. P. V. vii. 62. It may, however, have been on the plain over which the road to Bethlehem passes, and was west, not east of the city as in the text. This place has also been shown near Kulonieh, in Wády el 'Anab, and in Galilee.2
The Church of St. Mamilla is mentioned by Bernard (870 A.D.) as being one mile west of Jerusalem. It was near the modern Birket Mantilla.3
'Now,' Mac. Mo.
51 IN THE HOLY LAND.
large church, consecrated to the Holy Cross, and richly adorned with paintings. At the high altar, low down, is the trunk of this sacred tree, covered with white marble slabs, that only leave a small round aperture, through which it can be seen. There is a Spanish monastery there.1
LIX.–THE HOUSE OF ZACHARIAS.2
There are four versts from this monastery to the house of Zacharias, which is situated at the foot of a mountain west of Jerusalem. In this house of Zacharias the holy Virgin came to greet Elizabeth; and as soon as Elizabeth heard the voice of Mary, her babe leaped within her for joy, and she cried out, 'Blessed art thou amongst all women, and blessed is the fruit of thy womb; and whence cometh this joy, that the mother of my Lord should come to me?' (Luke i. 42). In the same house John the Forerunner was born. A church now occupies this place; on entering it there is, to the left,3 beneath the low altar, a small cavern, in which John the Forerunner was born. The whole place is surrounded by a stone enceinte.
LX.–THE MOUNTAIN WHERE ELIZABETH TOOK REFUGE WITH THE FORERUNNER.4
Half a verst thence, on the other side of a valley full of trees, is the mountain towards which Elizabeth ran with her son, and said, 'Receive, O Mountain, the mother and child.' And the mountain opened and gave them an asylum. When the soldiers of Herod, who were pursuing
1 The well-known Convent of.the Cross west of Jerusalem.
2
'Father of John.the Baptist,' Mac. Mo. This place is at 'Ain Kárim; see P. F. Mem. iii. 60.3
'Right,' D. The cavern is still shown on the north, or left side of the altar. Liévin, Guide, 271.4
The legend in this chapter appears to be taken from the Protevangelium of James xxii.
52 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
them, reached this place, no one was to be seen, and they returned confounded. The place of this event may be sect in the rock to this day. Above it a small church has been raised, under which is a small grotto, at the entrance to which is placed another little church. From this grotto flows the spring of water1 of which Elizabeth and John drank during their sojourn in the mountain, where they remained, attended by an angel, until the death of Herod. This mountain, which is west of Jerusalem, is very high, covered by large forests, and surrounded by numerous valleys. It is called 'Orini.'2 It was also in this mountain that David took refuge, when, persecuted by King Saul, he fled from Jerusalem.
LXI.–RAMA.
Rama is two versts west of this mountain; and it was of this Rama that the prophet Jeremiah said, 'A great noise was heard in Rama, cries and wailing were heard; Rachel weeping for her children, and unwilling to receive consolation, because they are not.'3
Rama is a large valley in which were scattered many villages; all the country round now bears the name of Rama, and constitutes the territory of Bethlehem. It was to Rama that King Herod sent the soldiers to massacre the Holy Innocents.
LXII.–EMMAUS.
Directing one's steps from Rama towards the west, after
1
'White as milk,' Mac. Mo. The spring is the present 'Ain Sitti Miriam at 'Ain Kárim; and remains of the ancient church were found in 1861.2
The name is probably from the {XXXX} of Luke i. 39, 'into the hill country,' Tobler, Topog. ii. 359, gives the form Orene.3
See Jer. xxxi. 15 and Matt. ii. 18. The Rama of Daniel was perhaps Kuriet el 'Enab.
53 IN THE HOLY LAND.
four versts one reaches Emmaus,l where, the third day after the Resurrection, Christ appeared to Luke and Cleopas, who were going from Jerusalem to the town; and they recognised Him when he had broken bread. It was a large town, and a church was built there; but now all has been destroyed by the infidels, and the town of Emmaus is deserted. It is situated behind a mountain to the right, not far from the road leading from Jerusalem to Joppa.
LXIII.–LYDDA.
From Emmaus to Lydda it is four versts across the plain. It was formerly a large town and was called Lydda, but today its name is Rambilieh.2 It was here that Peter cured Eneas,3 who lay sick on his bed.
LXIV.–JOPPA.
From Lydda to Joppa it is ten4 versts, continuing across the plain. In this city the holy Apostle Peter raised Tabitha from the dead. Here also Peter fasted, and having ascended to the top of the house towards the ninth hour, saw a sheet fastened at the four corners descend from heaven; and when it reached him he saw that it was full of beasts of the earth, and of all manner of creeping things. And a voice from heaven said to him, 'Rise, Peter; kill, and eat.' And Peter answered, 'Lord; I have never eaten anything that is impure and unclean.' And the voice from heaven said to him, 'Call not thou impure that which God hath purified' (Acts x. 13-15). There is now a church at
1 According to Mac. T. K. S. R.; 'Elmaus,' according to other MSS. The Emmaus mentioned here is the modern 'Amwás, Nicopolis, to the left of the Ramleh-Jerusalem road, and near Latrún.
2
'Ramli,' K. S. The modern Ramleh, which Daniel confuses with Lydda, which had been destroyed. See p. 9, note 2.3
According to Mac. Mo. F. K. S.; 'Enias' in other MSS. Æneas. Acts ix. 33.4
'Eight,' Ar.; 'five,' K.this spot called St. Peter. The town of Joppa is situated on the seashore, and the waves wash its walls. It is now known as Jaffa in the language of the Franks. From Jaffa to Tarsuf it is six versts.
LXV.–CÆSAREA OF PHILIPPI.
From Tarsuf1 to Cæsarea Philippi2 is a distance of 24 versts by a road which runs along the seashore. It was in this Cæsarea that the holy Apostle Peter baptized Cornelius. Not far from this city, two versts to the south, is a mountain on which Father Martinian3 lived, to whom a courtesan came, to tempt him.
LXVI.–CAPHARNAUM.
Cæsarea Philippi is eights versts distant from Capharnaum. The latter was formerly a very important and populous town, but at present it is deserted, and situated not far from the Great Sea. Of this Capharnaum the prophet said, 'Woe unto thee, Capharnaum: Thou shalt be exalted to heaven, and thou shalt be brought down to the depths of hell.' In this city Antichrist is to appear, and for this reason the Franks have abandoned it.
LXVII.–MOUNT CARMEL.5
It is about six versts from Capharnaum to Mount
1
'Arsuf,' D. The modern 'Arsúf.2
This should be Cæsarea Palæstina, now Kaisaríyeh, on the coast.3
According to K; ' Marcian' in other MSS.4
'Eighteen,' Mo.; 'fifty,' F. T. K. This curious allusion to a Capernaum in the Carmel district may be compared with the statement of Benjamin of Tudela (1163 A.D.) that Capernaum was four parasangs from the Kishon and six from Cæsarea. The place alluded to by Daniel and Benjamin appears to be 'Athlít, but another Capernaum is mentioned by William of Tyre (1182 A.D.); Vinisauf (1192 A.D.); and Jacob de Vitry (1210 A.D.); this was probably at Kh. el Keníseh.–Guérin, Samarie, ii. 279-282.5
According to K. R. 12.; 'Carlinus' in other MSS.
55 IN THE HOLY LAND.
Carmel. On this mountain the holy Prophet Elias lived in a cavern, and was fed by a raven; and here also he massacred the priests of Babel (Baal), saying, 'I burn with ardour for my Lord God.' This mountain is very high, and is about a verst from the Great Sea; from Mount Carmel to Caipha1 it is considered one verst.
LXVIII.–THE TOWN OF ACRE.
The distance between Caipha and Acre is 15 versts. It is a large town, solidly built, and possessing a good port; it belonged to the Saracens, and is now occupied by the Franks. From Acre to the town of Tyre it is ten2 versts, and as many from Tyre to Sidon. Not far distant is the hamlet of Sarepta4 of Sidon, where the prophet restored to life the widow's son.
LXIX.–THE TOWN OF BERYTHUS.
The distance between Sidon and Berythus is 15 versts. It was in this town that the Jews pierced the picture of Christ with a lance, and blood and water gushed forth. Many were then converted and had themselves baptized in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. In this same town of Berythus the sons of Xenophon, John and Arcadius, came to study philosophy. From Berythus5 to Zebel it is 20 versts, from Zebel to Tripoli 40, and from Tripoli to the river Sudia 60.
LXX.–ANTIOCH THE GREAT.
Antioch the Great, situated on this last-named river, is eights versts from the sea; 100 versts farther is Laodicea,7
1 In F.; 'Kifa' in other MSS. Now Haifa.
2 'Twenty,' Mac. T. K S. R.
3
'Twelve,' Mac. Mo., K S.4
Surafend.7
In T. K. S.; 'Adicea' in other MSS.then come Little Antioch, Kaninoros,1 Mavronoros,2 the small town of Satalia,3 and the little island of Khilidonia.4 All these towns are on the seashore. We passed all these towns without landing, and, for fear of the armed men, did not cast anchor at Khilidonia.5 From thence we proceeded towards Myra, and also towards the town of Patara; near the latter we met four galleys, carrying pirates, who attacked and robbed us. From thence we directed our way towards Constantinople, which we reached in good health.6
LXXI.–GALILEE AND THE SEA OF TIBERIAS.
Here is the road leading from Jerusalem into Galilee towards the Sea of Tiberias, Mount Tabor, and Nazareth. All the country bordering the Sea of Tiberias is called Galilee, and is situated north-east7 of Jerusalem. The town of Tiberias is four days' journey from Jerusalem, for a man on foot; and the road is a very dangerous and troublesome one. One walks for three days across stony mountains, and on the fourth one follows the valley of the Jordan, always going in an easterly8 direction, as far as the sources of the Jordan at the place where it flows from the sea.
This is the way in which I, by God's assistance, made the journey. Baldwin, Prince of Jerusalem, was about to
1
'Kalineros,' Ac.2
'Manineros,' F.3
In F. K S. R.; 'Satilia' in other MSS.4
'Khidonia,' S.5
'For fear of the armed men, but we cast anchor at Khilidonia,' Mac Mo., F. T. K. S. R.6
The places passed on the homeward journey were Zebel = Jebeil, the ancient Byblus; Tripolis = Tarábulus; the river Sudia–the Orontes, the name being preserved in the village of Sueidieh, near its mouth. Laodicea = Ladikíyeh; Little Antioch =Antiocheia ad Pyramum in Cilicia; Kaninoros = Celenderis, now Kilindria?; Mavronoros =Anemurium, now Anemúr?; Satalia = Attalia, now Adalea; Khilidonia = Chelidonia, now Shelidan; and Myra and Patara on the south coast of lycia.7
Lit. towards the summer sunrising.8
Northerly?57 IN THE HOLY LAND.
make war in the direction of Damascus, and to follow the road to the Sea of Tiberias, because it is that which leads to Damascus. Having learnt that the Prince would take that route, I went to him and, saluting him, said, 'I should much like to go with you to the Sea of Tiberias so as to visit all the holy places there. For the love of God take me with you, Prince.' The Prince permitted me to follow him with pleasure, and ordered me to join his suite; I very gladly availed myself of the permission, and procured animals for riding. Thus, then, without fear or peril, we passed those fearful places with the prince's troops; without an escort no one can cross them; St. Helena alonewas able to accomplish it.
This, then, is the Tiberias road. From Jerusalem to the 'Well of the Holy Virgin,' the distance is ten1 versts; from this well to the mountains of Gelboa, four2 versts. On these mountains Saul, King of Judah, and his son Jonathan were killed; they are high, rocky, arid, and destitute of water; even the dew never falls on them. From these mountains to 'David's Well' it is two versts; and from the well to 'David's Cavern,' four versts. It was in this cavern that God delivered King Saul into the hands of David, who did not kill him, but cut off the lappet of his cloak, and took away his sword and gauntlets.3
It is four versts thence to the mountains of Sichem and the 'Pit of Joseph.'4 On these mountains the sons of Jacob pastured their father's flocks, and it was there that Joseph 'the well favoured' came to bring his brothers the friendly greeting and blessing of Jacob their father. But they,
1
'Two hundred,' Ar. The well was probably at Bíreh, a short distance south of Bethel.2
'Fourteen,' Mac. Mo. Daniel has here identified Gilboa with Lebonah, now Lubbán, on the road from Jerusalem to Náblus.3
The 'well' and 'cavern' of David have not yet been identified.
having seen him, fell upon him, seized him, and threw him into a pit, which exists to this day, and forms a deep cistern, firmly built with large stones. We happened to pass the night at this place, which is not far from the main road and to the right of it.
LXXII.–JACOB'S WELL.
They reckon ten versts from thence to the hamlet of Jacob, called Sichar.1 Jacob's Well is there; it is very large and deep, and its water is very cold and pleasant to the taste. Near this well Christ talked with the Samaritan woman, and there we passed the night.
LXXIII.–SAMARIA.
Near this place, about half a verst away, is the town of Samaria.2 It is very large, and abounds in all sorts of things, and it is situated between two very high mountains. A number of fine springs of cold water traverse the town. The land abounds in all sorts of fruit trees, such as fig, nut, carob, and olive trees, which surround Samaria like thick forests, and border fields rich in all manner of corn. The whole territory is remarkably beautiful and highly productive in oil, wine, wheat and fruits. In a word, the town of Jerusalem draws all its food from this place. At present the town of Samaria is called Neapolis.
Two versts from this city towards the west is Sebastopol.3 There is a small enclosure there which contains the prison of St. John the Baptist, in which the forerunner of Christ was decapitated by order of King Herod. His tomb may be seen there also. A church, called that of the Fore-
1
Probably the village El 'Askar.2
The town described is not Samaria, but Shechem, now Náblus. The same error occurs on p. 72.3
Samaria or Sebaste, now Sebustíyeh..59 IN THE HOLY LAND.
runner, has been erected there, as well as a very rich Frank monastery.
LXXIV.–THE TOWN OF ARIMATHEA.1
Arimathea,2 which contains the tomb of St. Joseph and St. Maleil,3 is four versts distant. It is situated in the mountains west of Samaria, and a small enclosure is built there. Above the tomb of Joseph there is a church with a timber roof; and this place they call Arimathea. From Samaria to the Sea of Tiberias the road takes a north easterly4 direction.
LXXV.–THE TOWN OF BEISAN.
From Samaria to the town of Beisan it is 30 versts. Here lived Og, King of Beisan, who was killed by Joshua, son of Nun, near Jericho. This is a very dreadful and dangerous place. Seven5 rivers flow from the town; rushes are abundant on their banks; and thick groves of date trees grow in the town. This place is truly terrible and dangerous to pass; powerful and impious Saracens live there in great number, and take advantage of the fords of the rivers to attack travellers. Many lions frequent these parts, which are not far distant from the Jordan; great sheets of stagnant water separate the Jordan from the town of Beisan; these rivers fall into the Jordan, and it is there that lions abound. Near the town, on the east side, there is a remarkable natural cavern in the form of a cross: from it flows a spring, which runs into a miraculous reservoir, not made by hands, but created by God. In this basin Christ Himself bathed with His
1
'Rimatha,' O. Probably Rámeh, to the north of Samaria.2
'A small town in the rocky mountains,' Mac.,Mo., F.3
In R.; 'Maleleïl' in other MSS.4
Lit. the summer sunrising.5
'Six,' Ar.disciples, and the stone on which He sat can be seen to this day. We unworthy sinners also bathed there. It was in this same town of Beisan that the Jews came to Christ,1 bringing a penny, and asking, 'Is it lawful to give tribute or not?' But He answered them, 'Whose image and inscription is this? . . . Render then to Cæsar the things which are Cæsar's, and to God the things which are God's.' And addressing Peter, Christ said, 'Go, cast your line into the sea, and open the mouth of the first fish which you draw out of the water; you will find there a staler of four drachmas, which you wild give them for Me and for you.' Near Beisan, Christ healed two blind men who followed Him beseeching Him to heal them.2
LXXVI.–THE RIVER JORDAN.
From Beisan to the Jordan sources and Matthew's Custom-house it is 20 versts. Always going east, the road runs along the plains by the Jordan, whose water is sweet and pure, to its source. The Jordan flows from the Sea of Tiberias in two streams, which foam along in a marvellous way; one of these is called Jor and the other Dan Thus the Jordan flows from the Sea of Tiberias in two streams, which are three bow-shots apart, and which, after a separation of about half a verst, reunite as one river which is called Jordan, from the name of the two arms. The course of the Jordan is very rapid and sinuous. The water is very pure; and it very much resembles the river Snov in its width, depth, and sheets of stagnant water At the source fish abound; and there two stone bridges;
1
'To tempt Him,' Mac., F. K S.2
Daniel has here taken Beisan, Bethshean, for the Trans-Jordanic Bashan, and has localized there not only the events of Matt. xvii. 24-27, and xxii. 17-21; but the healing of the blind at Jericho mentioned in Matt. xx. 30-34.
61 IN THE HOLY LAND.
very solidly built upon arches through which the Jordan flows, span the two streams.
LXXVII.–THE CUSTOM-HOUSE OF MATTHEW.
The Custom-house of Matthew, an Apostle of Christ, was near these bridges, because all the roads leading to Damascus and Mesopotamia meet there. Near these bridges Prince Baldwin dined with his troops. And near the sources of the Jordan we also encamped with him, and bathed in the Sea of Tiberias. We afterwards journeyed along the banks of that sea without any fear of danger, and visited all the holy places that Christ our God had pressed with His feet. Sinner as I am, God permitted me to pass through and see all the land of Galilee, which I had never dared to hope for; my sinful feet have wandered over all the holy lands I so much desired to see. I have faithfully described these holy places, without lying, just as I saw them. Many who have visited these places have been unable to explore them thoroughly, and others, without reaching the holy places, have told lies and fables. As for me, a sinner, God granted me the acquaintance of a holy man of great age, very erudite, and devout, and who had spent thirty years in Galilee and twenty in the Laura of St. Sabbas; and this man gave me all the explanations contained in Holy Scripture. How can I, sinner that I am, be grateful enough for the favour shown to me!
We remained all that day near the bridge. Towards evening, Prince Baldwin passed over the Jordan with his army and marched toward Damascus, whilst we went to the town of Tiberias, where we remained for ten days till the return of the Prince from his expedition to Damascus; and during this time we visited all the holy places situated upon the shore of the Sea of Tiberias.
62 PILGRIMAGE OF THE RUSSIAN ABBOT DANIEL
LXXVIII.–THE SEA OF TIBERIAS.
One can pass round the Sea of Tiberias as if it were a lake; the water is very sweet,1 and one can never drink enough of it. It is 50 versts long by 20 broad. It is full of fish, and contains, especially, a fish like a carp, which Christ was very fond of, and which is superior to all other fish in flavour; I often ate it myself during my stay in the town. It is the same fish that Christ ate after His resurrection when He came to His disciples, who were fishing, and said, 'Children, have you nothing to eat?' They answered, 'No.' And He said to them, 'Cast the net on the right side'2 (John xxi. 5, 6).
LXXIX.–THE SOURCES OF THE JORDAN.
From the sources of the Jordan and the bridges to the baths of Christ, of the holy Virgin, and of the Apostles, it is six versts, and from these sacred baths3 to the town of Tiberias one verst. The town of Tiberias is very large, being two versts long and one wide, and lies on the shore of the sea. Christ our God there worked a number of miracles. In the middle of the town they show the place where He cured the leper; there, also, was the house of Peter's mother-in-law; Jesus entered it and cured her of the raging fever. They have built there a round church, dedicated to the Apostle Peter. There, also, is the house of Simon the Leper, where a courtesan washed the very pure feet of our Lord Jesus Christ with her tears, and dried them with her hair, receiving forgiveness for her many sins. It was in this town that He healed the crippled woman. There occurred the miracle of the
1
'As it is in the river, and not salt,' Mac. Mo.2
'Of the boas,' F. The fish alluded to is probably Chromis tiberiadis.centurion. Here, also, they let down the sick man through the broken roof, and here He was gracious to the Canaanite woman. A spring of very, cold, limpid water bursts forth from a cavern to which Christ retired when they wished to make Him King of Galilee. And He did many other miracles in this town. In the same town is the sepulchre of Elisaeus1 the prophet, the son of Jehosaphat;2 and also, near the road,3 that of Joshua the son of Nun. Near the sea, towards the east, a bow-shot from the town,4 there is a large stone upon which Christ stood, when He taught the people who hurried to Him from the coasts of Tyre and Sidon, from Decapolis, and from all Galilee. From thence He sent away the people and Isis disciples, who passed over in boats to the opposite coast, whilst Jesus remained, and afterwards walked upon the sea as if it were the land, and reached the people on the opposite shore before them. The latter, when they arrived, finding Jesus already there, said to Him, 'Master, when camest Thou?' He replied, 'That which is possible to God is impossible to man' (Matt. xix. 26). It is ten5 versts from Tiberias to this place by sea. There is a spot on rising ground a verst from the sea.
LXXX.–THE PLACE WHERE CHRIST SATISFIED FIVE THOUSAND MEN.
That place is situated in a plain covered with grass: there Christ satisfied five thousand men, not counting women and children, with five loaves, and the crumbs filled twelve baskets.
1 'Isaiah,' Mac. Mo.
2 'Amos,' Mac. Mo., F. Ar.
3
'In front of that town near a gulf,' Mac. Mo, F.; 'in front of that town on a mountain to the north,' K. S. R.4
'From the tomb,' F. T.5
'Five,' K.LXXXI.–THE PLACE WHERE CHRIST APPEARED TO HIS DISCIPLES FOR THE THIRD TIME AFTER HIS RESURRECTION.
Not far from the shore of the Sea of Tiberias, at the foot of a mountain,1 is the place where Christ appeared to His disciples for the third time after His Resurrection, and standing near the sea, said to them, 'Children, have you nothing to eat?' They answered him, 'No.' And He said to them, 'Cast the net on the right side as I tell you, and you will find' (John xxi. 5, 6). They cast, and now were not able to draw it for the multitude of fishes; having brought it to land, they found one hundred and fifty-three fish; and seeing near the net, bread, fire, and broiled fish, Christ ate of the repast, and gave them what was over. There is a church on this place dedicated to the holy Apostles. Near this is the house of the holy Mary Magdalene, whom Jesus delivered of seven devils. This place is called Magdalia.3
LXXXII.–THE TOWN OF BETHSAIDA.
A little farther distant, in the mountain, is Bethsaida, the native city of Andrew and Peter, and also the place where Nathanael was brought to Peter and Andrew.4
LXXXIII.–THE PLACE WHERE CHRIST CAME TOWARDS HIS DISCIPLES, WHO WERE FISHING.
On the seashore is the place where Christ came towards Andrew and Peter, the sons of Zebedee,5 who drew their
1 'Near a mountain,' K. S.
2 'Fifty-three,' D.; 'one hundred and three,' Ar.
3 Magdala, the present Mejdel.
4
'Where Philip brought Nathanael to Jesus,' Mac. Mo., F. K. S. R.5
Daniel here mixes up Mark i. 16-18 with i. 19, 20, in a manner which seems to indicate that he was not very well versed in New Testament history.
65 IN THE HOLY LAND.
nets, and gathered them up; there they recognized Jesus, and leaving their boat and nets, followed Him. The village of Zebedee, father of John, was close to the sea, as well as the house of St. John the Evangelist. There Christ drove a legion of devils out of a man, and commended them to enter a herd of swine, who drowned themselves in the sea.
The village of Capernaum is a short distance thence. Not far off1 runs a large river, which issues from the Lake of Genesaret, and falls into the Sea of Tiberias. The Lake of Genesaret is very large, being 40 versts in length and breadth; it is round, and full of fish. Near this lake is the town, named Genisara,2 for which reason the lake is called Genesaret.
LXXXIV.–THE TOWN OF DECAPOLIS.
There is another large town there3 bearing the name of Decapolis.4 Near the lake is a place where Jesus preached before the people, who came to Him from Decapolis and the coasts of Tyre and Sidon; the Gospel mentions this spot. Near this lake Jesus worked many other miracles.
LXXXV.–MOUNT LEBANON.
On the other side of this lake, towards the north-east,6 there is a large and high mountain, the summit of which is covered with snow even during summer: it is called Lebanon, and produces the incense of Lebanon and the
1 'From this village,' Mac. Mo, F. T. Ar.
2
In K S.; 'Genisira' in other MSS. Apparently Daniel's 'Lake of Gennesareth' is the present El Huleh, and the large river flowing near Capernaum the Jordan between the Huleh Lake and the Sea of Galilee, but his description is so obscure as to lead to the belief that he did not really see all that he describes, in spite of his strong assertion to the contrary.3
'At its side,' Mac. Mo.4
'Decapolia,' D. Mac. Mo.5
Lit. the summer sunrising.