AT sunrise on Tuesday, the 23rd of the month of September, we found that we had made forty miles towards Candia, leaving Turkey always on the right hand and on the left hand the island of Rhodes. After this, very little way was made until the evening on account of a great calm which came on at sea. When we lost sight of Turkey, the island of Longo, formerly called Choo (1) by writers, was sighted. As I said, it is subject to the knights of Saint John, and is a single commendam which is held by Don Eduardo de Camardino of Genoa, who, because I am a Milanese, did me such honour and made me such generous offers as I cannot describe. I think he was very demonstrative to me because the captain of the galley, Don Agostino Contarini, gave him to understand that I was a person of importance at Milan. However that may be, I fared well under this shadow.
To return to our subject. The said island of Longo has
Those dogs eat in a very orderly fashion. A bell is rung three times which can be heard a long way off. At the third sound all the dogs assemble there as if they were friars. If one should be missing, some of the oldest dogs immediately go outside and search until they find the missing one, and when he is found, after giving him a few bites, they conduct him to the others. They are worth their keep. I heard about them while I was in Rhodes at the house of the Lord of Longo, from one of his servants who had just come from Longo. Afterwards I heard about them also from the captain, who said that in his voyages he had been to that castle and seen this thing.
On Wednesday, the 24th of September, with calms and some contrary winds, we went thus navigating amongst the islands belonging to the Rhodians, and we greatly desired to enter the Archipelago, which, as the experienced sailors said, is otherwise called the Sea of Greece.
On Thursday, the 25th of September, we finally entered the desired sea, which has so many rocks and islets that they cannot be numbered; and there the sea, almost as if by a miracle, calmed down so completely that we remained where we were all Thursday, the Friday following, which was the 26th, and also a part of Saturday. The mariners did not know what to say, because usually the passage from Rhodes to Candia takes at the most two days and two nights, and we had already taken four. Further, we were in a difficult position, for, trusting to arrive quickly in Candia, very few provisions had been taken at Rhodes, where everything was dear, and so everything began to run short.
Very late on Saturday, the 27th of September, a wind arose called garbino,(1) which drove the galley so much out of our course that the captain would gladly have approached an island called Santurin.(2) And there was a great dispute in consequence between the captain and the comito and the pilot, who said to the captain that it was not a suitable place to stop at--that is, to cast the anchor. The captain maintained that on other occasions he had anchored there; and he related that one time when he was in the Canal of Santurin with several galleys, a storm arose in the West which continued for the space of three days, and was not only violent but very terrible--great thunder, great flashes of lightning, and noises as if there had been battle chargers there; and all on board the galleys were so terrified that they did not know what world they were in. On the morning of the third day an island as black as coal made its appearance; and the aforesaid captain said that they made every effort to approach it, but could never discover the bottom, and that he had never been able to anchor there since. The comito and the pilot would have their own way, and we did not anchor near the said Santurin.
On Sunday, the 28th of September, owing to the contrary
When the anchor was cast, those who desired to do so went on land, and the company climbed to a castle called Nio, high up on the summit of a mountain, and bought many necessary things except bread, because there was only badly made barley bread there; some was taken, but very little. There were excellent wines of our kind, meat and fowls, good grapes, pomegranates and other things for whoever wanted to buy. For a short time it was very agreeable to stay at this place, especially in order to obtain a supply of water, because the water was excellent, both the spring water and that of a river which came down from the island.
With many others I climbed up to the said castle in order to see several things. It is situated on a great rock, very difficult to get at. If it were in Italy, especially in Lombardy, it would be made into a very important fortress; here it appears to me to be a pigstye. I should not have courage to stay a night there, for fear it would tumble down, because the walls of the houses are built without mortar: one stone is simply placed over another, and nothing more. Nevertheless there are a great many houses, and also many inhabitants. There are a great many females, both great and small; one cannot imagine how so many persons can live in the said castle. Although the women are Greeks and live in such a remote place,
The said castle is subject to a Lord called the Lord of Nissa,(1) an island near there and fertile. The said Lord had died a few days before we arrived there. He was the brother-in-law of our captain's brother. He left one young son, and the Signoria of Venice to whom he is recommended, has appointed his uncle as his guardian, according to what the aforesaid captain said (Note 94).
On Monday, the 29th of September, Saint Michael's day, we were kept in the said port, to our great vexation, waiting for favourable weather in order to depart.
On Tuesday, the 30th of September, the leaders of the Ultramontane pilgrims gathered together and came to the poop to see the captain, who at that time had finished dinner; and when all the company were arranged according to their order and dignities the captain asked what they wanted. The first of them in order said that they had come on behalf of all the pilgrims to beg him to lead them out of that place, because they were not satisfied with a single thing, and especially with what was given them to eat. The captain replied very amiably, saying, in the first place, that he was not keeping them there for his pleasure, and that the greatest loss was his. He then explained that, because of the contrary winds and in order not to jeopardise both himself and them, he had made a port he never touched at, that he had done his best to leave there, but the weather had been unfavourable, and that the voyage as far as Candia could not safely be made at night on account of the innumerable rocks, because, as there was no moon and the winds were adverse, the ship might easily run into danger. Before the interview was over very injurious words had been said on both sides,
When the aforesaid Ultramontanes had departed, the captain ordered two cannon to be fired to call back the company, both of pilgrims and of galeotti who were on land idling and amusing themselves, for there was no trade to be done there. The greater number were ashore, some in one place, some in another, but, owing to the dearth of boats, they could not return as quickly as they did in the frequented ports, where there are many other boats beside those of the galley. By the time the company was at last on board the sun was not less than twenty-two hours old. As the weather was very clear the captain set sail immediately, but many were afterwards very sick, for before the third hour of the night very bad weather came on, and then the captain chanted the Litanies, while the French stayed below deck and said never a word.
On Wednesday, the 1st of October, we navigated against the wind, and went so far, that, according to what some said--but secretly so that the captain should not hear we had passed by Candia, and were nearing Modone. But the captain, who wished at all costs to go to Candia, turned back because of the promises he had made to the Duke and Captain of Candia, and also in order to fulfil the agreements he had made with the galeotti.
On the way we met some ships going from Candia to Venice loaded with wines. This made the pilgrims discontented, for they desired to go to their own countries and not to Candia to buy wine or malmsey.
On Thursday, the 2nd of October, at sunrise, we reached Candia, to the great joy of the Candiots, who were expecting us eagerly, and especially also of Don Lorenzo Venier and Don Luca Zeno. Don Lorenzo Venier had been Duke of Candia, and now, because his term of office was ended; he wanted to go home; and so, too, Don Luca Zeno, who had been captain of the island of Crete, and lived in Candia, wanted also to return to the mother country; but in order to be safer they wished to return on board our galley. The Candiots were rejoiced at the opportunity of selling a quantity of malmsey and muscatel, many cheeses, and many articles made of cypress wood.
As soon as we arrived in port it was marvellous to see the crowd that assembled. The pilgrims, who had suffered greatly from the sea, and had complained because they had not been taken to Venice without touching at Candia, immediately began to enjoy themselves a little with the good malmseys and muscatels and also with some rough wine.
On Friday, the 3rd of October, the feast of Saint Titus was celebrated all through Candia. The principal church bears his name, and he is the patron saint of the Candiots. For that day no other business was done. We visited the churches, our friends and also the taverns.
On Saturday, the 4th of October, there was an even greater festival, that of Saint Francis, and neither the shops nor the warehouses were opened for trade. I remained the greater part of the day at the Convent of Saint Francis. In the morning all the magistrates, both new and old, came there and all the pomp of Candia.
On Sunday, the 5th of October, the merchants began to examine the malmseys and muscatels in the warehouses. I, who did not want to trade, went to see what was being done, and I often went on the sea,(1) which was so agitated
On Monday, the 6th of October, all the shops of Candia were opened. They are filled with every kind of work they do there, especially cypress work, of which there is a great variety, and they do good business. The warehouses of the malmseys and muscatels were also open, and many agents invited people to buy. The great warehouses full of cheeses floating in the brine made me marvel greatly that the skin of those who stand in it with their legs bare did not crack on account of the salt. I spent the whole of this day in looking at these things in order to be able to tell about them, not with the idea of trading.
In the morning I went also to a gate on the land side, where there is a market for all kinds of victuals. It was a pleasant sight to see so much beautiful bread. I seemed to be in Italy. The bread is cheap. One thing displeased me greatly. I saw many barrels of quails, skinned and salted like the mullet or muzeri.(2) It was a pity to see them, with their white feet; they looked like zati (3) or toads. I and certain other Italians bought some to try if they could be made good to eat, but it was impossible; whether roasted or boiled they always tasted like a piece of leather prepared for eating. Seeing such a quantity of them I asked Don Nicolo de Domo, doctor-in-law, our good Milanese, who does excellent business in Candia, why there was such a quantity of quails, and all thus salted. He
On Thursday, the 7th of October, accompanied by the aforesaid Don Nicolo, I went to see all the different kinds of work done in cypress wood, and also the articles of devotion painted in the ancient style. Everything was shown to us out of regard for the aforesaid Don Nicolo, who is much esteemed by the people on account of his profession which he exercises publicly before those Lords, the Duke and Captain and Councillors very boldly. Following the example of the other pilgrims, I also spent a few ducats on the articles of devotion and the things made of cypress.
On Wednesday, the 8th of October, the pilgrims began to behave to the captain as did the children of Israel to Moses when they were in the desert, and, weary of the manna they had every day, they asked for meat and began to murmur. So did the pilgrims, satiated with so much malmsey and muscatel. They began to say to the captain that he must take them away from there, and that if he wanted to trade in malmsey or anything else he could do so at his good pleasure, provided he sent the company to Venice.
He excused himself on the ground that the weather was very unfavourable; but the company received the excuse with very high and injurious words. I was the judge of the controversies which arose between the pilgrims and the captain, and they said some hard things to me also, declaring that I supported the captain, because, even when we remained on land, he paid my expenses and not theirs. This was the truth, but I paid more than they did.
On the morning of Thursday, the 9th of October, the weather changed, and immediately the captain gave notice to his friends, and sent word to certain Venetians who wanted to come to Italy, and by means of the trumpet warned the pilgrims who were on land, that every man must be on board the galley by the twenty-third hour, because if this weather continued he intended to set sail without fail.
At the appointed hour no time was lost. First came the old Duchess--that is, the wife of Don Lorenzo Venier,(1) who, as I said, was the retiring Duke of Candia, and the wife of Don Luca Zeno,(2) the retiring Captain. They were accompanied by the wife of Don Domenico Bollani, the new Duke, and the wife of Don Francesco Foscarini, the new Captain, and attended by many ladies, so adorned and so magnificent that I seemed to be in Venice on a great festival; and they went first on board the galley.
After them came the aforesaid retiring Duke and Captain preceded by the new Duke and the new Captain. All the magistrates of the island and an infinite number of gentlemen of Candia (if those can be called gentlemen who neither do nor want a single thing), and the trumpeters and the pipers escorted them to the galley very honourably and also with great dust.
When the company heard that the aforesaid Duke and Captain with their families had gone on board the galley, all flew with their baggage on their shoulders, and no one looked behind. I was accompanied by the aforesaid Don Nicolo de Domo, doctor, and greatly recommended by him, more than I wished or needed, living as I did at the captain's table. In addition, he insisted on my accepting a barrel of excellent malmsey and some fowls, pomegranates and grapes. I kept the fruit for myself as I am very fond of it, the rest I gave to the galeotti.
In spite of the firing of so many cannon and the many signals of departure given, it was past the second hour of the night before leave had been taken of all the friends. Then to the praise of God and of Our Lady, at the third hour of the night (it was moonlight), the cables and other fastenings of the galley were loosened, and at the fourth hour we left the port with great cries from the mariners and blasts from the trumpets, and set sail towards the West, although the wind was not favourable for our voyage, but rather contrary.
On Friday, the 10th of October, God willed to give some little consolation to the pilgrims, so often troubled now by one thing, now by another, and he suddenly sent a wind so favourable for our journey and so strong, that without a single stroke of the oars it drove us between the said Friday and the Saturday following, right opposite Modone. The artimone (that is, the main sail) only was spread, and there was no need to move even a rope, so that every man was in good spirits.
On Saturday, the 11th of October, at the eighth hour, it was found that we had passed beyond Modone, and if a calm had not come on towards Sunday, the captain had decided with that wind to go on without putting in at the port; but as the sea calmed down he ordered the anchors to be cast.
On Sunday, the 12th of October, as the galley was already anchored, but some distance from the port of Modone, the captain gave license, to anyone who wished, to go ashore, especially to hear Mass; and he ordered the anchors to be raised because he wanted to approach the port and go and hear Mass also. But the moment the anchors were heaved such a favourable wind sprang up that nothing better could be desired. He was thereupon entreated by Don Lorenzo Venier not to trouble about landing there, but rather to go to Venice; and being also urged to do this by the comito, he changed his decision, and at once ordered three cannon to be fired and sent a trumpeter on land to recall to the galley all those who had gone on land. In the shortest possible time every man was back on board, and without delay he set sail with an excellent stern wind, amid general rejoicing. We made more than ten miles an hour.
CHAPTER XVII.
Pilot left behind at Modone.-Don Bernardino Contarini goes on Board the Galley.-Zante Sighted.Great Storm.-Curzola.-Lesina.-Description of this Island.-Franciscan Friary.-Sermon in the Cathedral.-Galley Anchored at La Murata near Sebenico.-Several Pilgrims leave the Ship.-Death of a French Pilgrim.-Zara.-Storm in the Quarnero.-Brioni.-Istrian Stone.-Church of the Four Crowned Heads.-Majority of the Pilgrims take small boats to go direct to Venice.-Parenzo.-Pilot taken Aboard and the Galley sets Sail for Venice.
AT Modone the captain left the pilot whom he had taken there on the way out, and he took on board the galley one of his relatives named Don Bernardino Contarini, who wanted to go to Corfu; but he and all the others who desired to go there were disappointed, because it was not possible to touch there on account of the weather.
When the galley was well started in the name of God, and after dinner was over, the said Don Bernardino, who had dined with the captain and those other Venetian gentlemen, in reply to questions addressed to him, because he had just come aboard, began to speak of the affairs of the West of the Pope, of the King of France and of our Lord Lodovico. I think he spoke of what he knew and what he did not know, and far from the truth; nevertheless some of the things he said, which we did not believe, were afterwards found to be true. I appeared to believe them like the others, and the more so, when they redounded to the praise of the aforesaid Lord Lodovico, although he said them with another object. I supported what he said with good arguments, and they themselves--I mean the Venetians--remained silent.
Thus we spent the time until late; then the sky became very dark, and the company thought there would soon be heavy rain. The said weather began in the sea towards the North, and for the space of over an hour a tail of cloud was seen, like a great beam, which came from the heavens and entered the sea; it seemed to raise a great mass of water from the sea. All on board the galley, the mariners as well as the pilgrims, stood in great wonder to watch this thing. The captain said that it was a very evil beast called Scio, and that if it encountered a ship, no matter how large, unless that ship could get out of the way, it would be thrown upside down. However, at the third hour of the night the weather cleared, and good weather continued and also a good wind.
On Monday, the 13th of October, in the morning, the island of Zante as it is called was sighted. It is a very fertile island, and subject to the Signoria of Venice. During the preceding night it was found that we had made over a hundred miles, although the weather was so good that we pilgrims, who had been crowded together below deck for fear of a storm, thought that the galley had never moved. We all declared, that on the whole voyage, we had never had such a good night before. But in truth we behaved as did the children of Israel when they waxed fat with the favour of God, and instead of praising Him they gave themselves up to idolatry, and did everything in direct opposition to his Commandments, until they provoked Him to do them some harm. Because of the good weather we had and the excellent passage God had granted us, we ought to have been occupied continually in good works and in praising God; but all the contrary prevailed throughout the galley, and the good works were limited to a very few persons, so that within myself I marvelled greatly, that having experienced so many perils at sea, those on board had not become better and did not recognise the Divine Power in a very different manner.
God, however, chastises whom He will at the right time, and like our excellent Father as He is, when He sees that of our ownselves we do not walk in the good way of His Commandments, at once He sends the punishments. Thus at the hour of Vespers, when we thought to reach Corfu that night, the weather was so good, and when we were already opposite the island of Jacinthos, commonly called Zante, a hundred miles from Corfu, such a terrible storm arose and of all the winds together--now scirocco,(1) now garbino,(2) now ostro(3)--that the officers of the galley did not know what to do, and having furled the sails they waited to see what would happen.
The following night the sea was so agitated that every hope of life was abandoned by all; I repeat by all. We were driven out of our course, and the galley was launched out into the open sea on chance, and a certain sail called the cochina was hoisted which had never been used all the voyage. The storm became so violent that every man fled below deck, and it was no use to say: "This is my place," because in that hour all things were common in our despite. Death was chasing us.
During the night such heavy waves struck the ship that they covered the castle in the poop and the pizolo and the whole galley in general with water; not a single person was exempt, from the least to the greatest. The water came from the sky and from the sea; on every side
Thus the night wore away amidst such cries that it seemed as if all the souls tormented in hell were there, so to speak. From time to time, the galeotti, who remained on deck exposed to the weather in order to navigate the galley, came below drenched to the skin, and in such a state as to merit all compassion even if they had been more wicked than they were.(1) I gave up my place to them very willingly, in order that they might put on dry clothes. How many bargains were made with the Judge who will not accept frivolous things nor chatter! I made very many, if they were only accepted! That time there was no lack of vows, both general and particular. Amongst the general, it fell to me to draw out of a hat a written one, containing a promise to say certain Masses at Venice. I have not forgotten the private ones I made, and I will carry them into execution as soon as I can.
As that terrible tempest continued, on Tuesday, the 14th of October, by order of the captain and also of Don Lorenzo Venier, three pilgrimages were arranged--one to Our Lady of Loreto, another to Saint Anthony of Padua, and the third to Venice(2). Much money was collected for the purpose, and many pilgrims volunteered to undertake these pilgrimages.
During this storm we drifted at the mercy of the sea, with nothing but the sail I mentioned above. Three very
I stood to contemplate the fury of the sea, which was greater than I can describe to anyone who has not seen it. When it was angry, those mountains, as they seem of water, appeared as if they would engulf the galley. I reflected that these were among the things I had not believed when I heard about them. When those mountains reached the galley they gave her such blows that it seemed as if she would break up, as indeed she would have done if she had not been so excellently built. The old and experienced mariners said that no other galley could have resisted so many and such terrible blows, and I shall always be able to testify to this from what I saw.
The storm lasted until the following midnight. It was impossible in such weather to make a port, so we left Corfu behind, though it was desired by so many, beginning with myself.
On Wednesday, the 15th of October, a little before daybreak, the sea began to mitigate its terrible fury somewhat. At sunrise, the cochina was taken down and the artimone--that is, the main sail--was spread, and we began to make good way towards Albania, leaving the Morea behind us. At the twenty-third hour the weather began to change again, and in great haste the artimone was let down and furled and the cochina was hoisted again. Heavy rain came on with thunder and lightning, which lasted until the morning, when we found ourselves at the point of an island called El Sasino, in Albania. As I went about everywhere on the galley quite freely, I came to the conclusion that the past evils, and those we still feared to encounter, proceeded from the fact that there were too many commanders aboard. First, the captain ordered one thing; next Don Lorenzo Venier ordered another, and insisted on having his own way; then the comito, because of the altercations, flew into a passion; and finally, in the midst of these disputes, the bad weather overtook us.
At dawn on Thursday, the 16th of October, the cochina was taken down and all the other sails were spread, as the sea was somewhat calmer and a wind favourable for our journey had sprung up. More than twelve miles an hour were made, so the experienced sailors said, and with this weather we hoped to be able to touch at Ragusa, having passed by Corfu so much desired by the company; but Don Lorenzo Venier, according to whose pleasure the ship was navigated, wanted to touch at a castle in Albania called Antivari, where one of his nephews was Governor.
We passed Dulcigno, and a river called the Boyana,(1) which comes from a lake and winds for two hundred miles. It generates terrible fish, especially eels of enormous size and other fish, and it is subject to the Turk.
After all, as the weather was so steady and so much in our favour, it was impossible to stop and make the port of Antivari.
In the evening, in order to avoid running on a rock, for there are many in those parts, all the sails were taken down and the cochina alone was spread. With this, however, the galley made such progress that it was a marvel and in the morning we found that we had left Ragusa at least sixty miles behind, to the great disappointment of many who wanted to leave the galley and go on board other ships, in order to cross to the kingdom of Naples.
On Friday, the 17th of October, late in the day, we
The said citadel is full of people. The men dress in public like the Venetians, and almost all of them know the Italian tongue. When I asked the reason, I was told it was because they often go to Venice. Their women cannot fear the cold. They go about with their chests and shoulders entirely uncovered from the breasts upwards, and they arrange so that their breasts hold up their clothes and prevent them from falling down on to their feet.
The place seems to me poor in everything save wine, which is abundant and good. The island is not much cultivated because the greater part of the men are galeotti and continually at sea.
Most of the pilgrims landed, thinking to find a good supper. But there is no fish to be had there, although the place is in the midst of the sea, no eggs, no cheese. There was hot bread, for, as soon as the people heard of the
We stayed there until the following morning, every man being warned, however, that if he wanted to come further, he must sleep on board the galley. Certain Ragusans remained behind and some friars who wished to return to Ragusa, which we had passed by owing to the force of the wind.
On Saturday, the 18th of October, which was the festival of Saint Luke the Evangelist, we left Curzola. Only one sail, the terzarola, was spread, because there was a very high though favourable wind--that is, the scirocco, and with the said sail alone we made, according to the estimate of the mariners, fifteen miles an hour.
It was a lordly sight, for anyone who did not fear the sea, to see such a great ship fly along. In four hours we went from Curzola to Lesina, and there made the port, in obedience to the wish of Don Lorenzo Venier, who was afraid of being carried further by the violence of the wind--although it was favourable for us--because the rocks were so numerous in Dalmatia.
The anchors were thrown out on all sides of the galley because of the force of the wind, and as that was not enough they also threw on land certain cables called provexe. It seemed indeed as if all the world would be engulfed, such was the fury of the wind.
When the galley was brought to and secured, the greater part of the pilgrims went ashore, hoping to find some refreshment besides the wind, but they did not find anything save wind and water--no eggs, no fish, hardly even a little bread and wine; and all returned to the galley expressing great marvel that the captain had touched at such a place. As to provisions, they had fared better at Jaffa. Everybody was very astonished also that Lesina should be reckoned a city, when there is not to be found there lodging for a single person.
This city of Lesina (1) is called in Latin, Fara. It looks a more important place seen from the sea than it is found to be when one is on land. It stands on two hills, one higher than the other. In my opinion, it must have taken its name because the higher part is built as a fortress and walled, and goes up to a point like a lesina.(2) I think the lower part is more ancient, and it is called Fara because the Episcopal Church is there and the Bishop is called the Bishop of Fara and not the Bishop of Lesina. I inquired about this both on the galley and ashore, but I did not get any explanation.
Suffice it to say that on entering this city it seems flat, nevertheless on two sides it ascends, and more on the left side than on the right, and the part on the left is walled. It must be said that the place is strong, for it has a large port on the right hand, and on two other sides--because it can be described as triangular--it is dominated by the hills. On the top of the left-hand side there is a castle which appears to overlook the whole sea.
As to the buildings, I saw nothing beautiful there, except the palace of the Government. The other houses are very humble, and there are very few of them. There are some which have been begun above the seashore. They will be beautiful when they are finished. I heard that they belonged to certain Ragusans who went away because of the heavy taxes. The people are poor and of a bad condition. They are proud, even to the women, so that the officials do not know how to carry out their duty there.
On Sunday, the 19th of October, we all went to hear Mass at the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where the Observant friars of Saint Francis live. The Friary (Note 95) is being built with the offerings of sailors. It stands on a white rock, and when any building is added it is necessary to excavate the rock.
The Church and Monastery were founded by a certain Don Giovanni Soranzo, because of a great miracle worked for him by Our Lady; and the sign is to be seen as you enter the church door. One night he was at sea in a great storm; the ship's rudder broke; he recommended himself to Our Lady, and found himself again safe at this rock. This was the origin of the building. It was afterwards enlarged, and in it there live as many as twelve friars. Don Lorenzo Venier had a Mass chanted there because of the vow he had made at sea.
After hearing Mass we went to the Cathedral to hear the sermon. It was not like those preached by the departed Don Fra Francesco Trivulzio, which stimulated a man to listen; this instead incited one to talk and even to sleep. The day ended very sadly for the pilgrims, for the reason I gave above.
On Monday, the 20th of October, we remained in port, with. great loss to the pilgrims, who murmured, although the captain excused himself on account of the weather. It must be said that the sea had so calmed down during the night that the galley could not be moved. In order to remain on good terms with the captain, I went to see the sights and did not take part in any assembly that might displease him. Certainly, I also would have been glad to depart, nevertheless, by standing aside, I was always among those chosen to accompany the captain and the other gentlemen and go with them everywhere.
Before daybreak on Tuesday, the 21st of October, we left the port of Lesina with a little favourable wind, and up to the second hour of the day we sailed along gaily enough. Then the sea calmed down so much, that, with much fatigue-for the oars had to be used--we were taken for safety to stop at a place called Cape Cesto, because it was feared that an unfavourable wind was about to rise, and there we remained. No one went on land, and there was nothing to be done save contemplate the sea, which was so quiet that it appeared a glass of water.
On Wednesday, the 22nd of October, we departed from the said place, thinking to be able to navigate, as a little wind had sprung up; but immediately there was a calm again, and afterwards a provenza arose which was unfavourable for us, and it was necessary to take refuge in a place called La Murata, where there was nothing except high and very bare mountains. It is called La Murata, because of a wall which the Signoria of Venice has caused to be made in the manner of a fortress with a drawbridge. It is said to have been made in order to fortify a certain islet, and that formerly, when the Turks harried those parts, the peasants used to take refuge in that islet and save themselves from the raids. Although it is such a desert place, vestiges of dwellings are to be seen there; they are also built of stone. La Murata is twelve miles from Sebenico.
While we were in this place the fishermen came from Sebenico and from certain hamlets three or four miles distant, and brought on to the galley an abundance of good and cheap fish; there was nothing else to be had. With certain other persons I went wandering along time on those mountains, because I wanted a salad. As I have said, they are so dry and bare that there was not a herb to be found the length of one's finger.
On Thursday, the 23rd of October, we still remained in this straitness with great murmuring on the part of the pilgrims, who said that if we had not stopped at Lesina we should have already arrived at Venice with the weather we had. And murmuring thus, sixteen pilgrims of various nations left in several barques to go to Zara. Although I was invited to accompany them, I determined not to abandon the captain, even if it took up to Christmas to go to Venice; and he strengthened me in this resolution, taking care, that, as far as the living was concerned, I should lack nothing.
While we were at La Murata, this day, at the twenty-second hour, a French pilgrim passed from this life, and was buried beside the wall.
On Friday, the 24th of October, when the moon arose, as there was a little Greco-Levante, we set sail; but it left us very quickly, and it was necessary to anchor near a rock, suitable for the purpose, twenty miles from Zara.
On Saturday, the 25th of October, at daybreak, the said wind having sprung up again, we set out with the intention of passing by Zara without stopping, in order to make up the time lost at the preceding rocks, but the opinion of Don Lorenzo Venier's wife, who wanted to visit certain relatives at Zara, won the day, and the port was made. The pilgrims who remained and those gentlemen with their wives went ashore, on the understanding, however, that every man must be aboard again by the evening, because it was decided to set sail before dawn. There we did nothing save stand and watch the partridges sold for six marchetti the pair.
On Sunday, the 26th of October, at daybreak, we left Zara with such a strong stern wind that we made fifteen miles an hour quite smoothly. But at midday, when we were in a certain gulf called the Quarnero,(1) such a storm arose that it seemed as if we must founder. The captain was of the opinion that we had not yet had the worst, and already I began to envy the pilgrims who had left the galley and gone by other ships. The blows given by the sea were so heavy, and such a quantity of water was thrown on the galley, and came down through the hatches, that I thought we should be drowned below deck.
For my part I considered that we well deserved it all, because, as at the pleasure of a woman we had entered port, so, in the judgment of God, we ought to have remained on land long enough to hear Mass on Sunday. Nevertheless, when it pleased God, we approached a rock called the rock of Saint Jerome, twenty-eight miles from Parenzo, in terrible rain, which put an end to the violence of the bora which had sprung up so furiously. The anchors were cast there, and we waited the favour of God until the morning, for the wind was contrary.
On Monday, the 27th of October, we took refuge, as well as possible, in a port very well protected from the violence of the winds, according to what I heard. On one side there was a village called La Fasana, on the other side another village called Briona.(2) I think the name has been altered, and that it should be "Priona," because there are mountains of rocks and very beautiful stones of different kinds, although there are no marbles. They are like the stones of Angera,(4) and it seems really as if the veins of stones had been first squared before being put into those mountains, for they are all cut as if to measure.
At Briona whoever wished to do so went on land. I found there a man from Cremona, and another from Como, employed in stone cutting, and from them I learned about the nature of the place.
The land is cultivated by the women, because the men are entirely occupied in cutting out the stones. I saw one thing in that place which I must not omit to mention, namely, that the greater number of their houses are built without mortar, and nevertheless there are some beautiful ones. The stones are so well put together one upon the other that the buildings are strong, though these are without cement. The cracks are filled up outside with tow.
The men are honest, and have had enterprise enough among them to build a beautiful church, called the Church of Saint Germanus and the four Crowned Heads, and they have had enterprise enough also to cause an altar piece to be made of the value of three hundred ducats, as they themselves say. There are five large figures made by the hand of an excellent master. They only lack the voice, otherwise they would be alive, and the gold has not been spared on them. At the foot, there is carved the history of the four crowned heads who were carvers in stone (Note 96). I have not seen an altar piece like it at Milan.
On Tuesday, the 28th of October, as the contrary wind persevered, the captain and the other Venetian gentlemen left the galley, and I did not abandon them. It was very cold, and we were not ashamed to go to the good fires.
As many pilot boats had come there, the majority of the pilgrims who suffered much from the inconvenience of the place, entered those boats and departed to go to Venice. For my part, not being too bold-spirited, I determined not to leave the galley, although I was anxious to depart.
On Wednesday, the 29th of October, at the second hour of the day, as there was a little favourable wind, we departed, and sailed towards Parenzo, leaving on the right a city which looks large and beautiful seen from a distance. It is called Rovigno, and appears to have a beautiful church dedicated to Saint Euphemia, whose body is said to lie there.
With this weather we arrived at Parenzo at the first hour of the night, and when the anchor was cast, the captain, urged by Don Lorenzo Venier, went ashore alone and took a pilot according to the regulations. When he returned to the galley bringing the pilot with him, as the air was clear, he set sail out of the usual order, for we thought to leave the galley here and go by a small boat as far as Venice. The galley set out towards Venice to the praise of Clod and of the glorious Virgin Mary, and to the great joy of those who remained board; they were only a few.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Arrival in Venice.-The Custom House.-Festival on All Saints' Day.-Casola says Mass at the Frari.-Visits the Milanese Ambassador and meets Philippe de Comines.-Palazzo Delfini.-Dominican Convent.-Casola takes leave of Friends in Venice and goes to Padua.-Vicenza.-Abbey at Villanova.-Verona.-Peschiera.-The Muster.-Brescia and its Bishop.-Encounter with Friends from Milan.-Calci.-Caravaggio.-Casola Arrives in Milan.
ON Thursday, the 30th of October, about the first hour of the day, we reached a place called Sopra Porto,(1) said to be ten miles distant from Venice. There was a very heavy sea, and the captain ordered the anchors to be cast there.
As the arrival of the galley had been announced by an English pilgrim who had left Zara in a barque, many pilot boats came to meet us, and other boats also came to take off the pilgrims, because, as I said, there was a heavy swell on, and the pilot thought it better not to proceed further for the present.
The captain, who did not feel very well, took one of the boats, and permitted me to accompany him. I left all my possessions except my breviary on board the galley. That swell was a great comfort to me, so great was my desire to reach Venice.
To the praise of God, at the nineteenth hour, I arrived in Venice, and found that the pilgrims who had left the
On Friday, the 31st of October, the galley came into the Grand Canal of Venice to the Custom House (Note 97). Although it was raining heavily, as I found I could do so, I had all my things taken off the galley and put into a gondola. For this I paid certain marcelli to someone. I do not know who he was. Immediately after, by order of the Lord Advocates, the door of the Custom House that is, the place where the merchandise was stored and where the pilgrims had slept--was sealed. This was very inconvenient for many pilgrims, especially for the Ultramontanes, who wanted to go to their own countries.
In consequence of this sealing--as complaining produced no effect in Venice--they had to stay there against their will more than six days. It excited one's sympathy to see those pilgrims go with so many complaints to the Signoria; nevertheless the said door was not opened until it pleased the authorities. My experience proved that it helped matters greatly to shake one of the three sacks I had carried with me--I mean that of the money.
Saturday, the 1st day of November, being the festival of All Saints, I went to Saint Mark's Church, and there found the Most Illustrious Don Agostino Barbarigo and the royal and ducal Ambassadors at the Mass for All Saints' day, which was chanted very solemnly with the usual ceremonies as I described above.
When Mass was finished the aforesaid Doge ascended to the palace, accompanied by the aforesaid Ambassadors, and followed by so many gentlemen in couples that it was a marvel to see them. I counted up to a hundred of them, then I remembered the lesson read at Mass which spoke of the multitude which no man can number, and I gave up counting and contemplated their superb and sumptuous dresses--so many togas down to the ground of crimson or of scarlet as you please; and they all walked two and two, as I said, after the Doge in perfect order. This is very different from the practices I have witnessed at many Courts, both ecclesiastical and secular, where the moment the Prince has passed all go pell-mell (as we say in our tongue a rubo) and without any order. In Venice, both before and behind the Doge, everyone goes in the best order imaginable.
After dinner, with the aforesaid ducal Ambassador, we went to hear very solemn Vespers at a Monastery for women, called All Saints (Note 98).
On Sunday, the 2nd of November, as I was not yet ready to return to the mother country, although I greatly desired to do so, I went with certain Milanese to the Church of Saint Francis, or as it is called the Church of the Minor Friars, where the Milanese, as I said before, have a beautiful chapel dedicated to Saint Ambrose, and having borrowed an Ambrosian missal, I said Mass there in the Ambrosian fashion, not without exciting the admiration of certain Venetians who remained to hear it. Then I went to see the magnificent ducal Ambassador, who with great courtesy had sent to seek me, and for the rest of that day he would not let me leave his magnificence. After dinner he very kindly took me in his boat, together with the Ambassador of the French King (Note 99) and Don Girolamo Zorzi (Note 100)--a very good man and facetious, though somewhat deformed in his person, that is to say, slightly hump-backed--who had just been appointed Ambassador for the Signoria to the Pope. We went first to hear Mass at San Giorgio Maggiore, which was so disagreeable to listen to, because of the manner in which it was celebrated by the friars, that we were obliged to leave.
We then entered the boat and went together to visit the wife of a gentleman of the Delfini family who was in childbed. I think this visit had been arranged by the aforesaid Don Girolamo to show the magnificent Ambassadors, and especially the Ambassador of the King of France, the splendour and great magnificence of the Venetian gentlemen. The aforesaid royal Ambassador said truly, that neither the Queen of France nor any French noble would have displayed so much pomp in similar circumstances. The ducal Ambassador said the same, and declared that our most illustrious Duchess would not have such ornamentation on a similar occasion.
As the room was not capable of holding many persons, the aforesaid ducal Ambassador chose me specially to enter with him so that I might see and also report what I had seen elsewhere. While we were standing in the room he asked my opinion several times, now about one thing, now about another. I could only reply with a shrug of the shoulders, for it was estimated that the ornamentation of the room where we were and where the invalid was--I mean the permanent structure--had cost two thousand ducats and more, although the length of the chamber did not exceed twelve braccia. The fireplace was all of Carrara marble, shining like gold, and carved so subtly with figures and foliage that Praxitiles and Phidias could do no better. The ceiling was so richly decorated with gold and ultramarine and the walls so well adorned, that my pen is not equal to describing them. The bedstead alone was valued at five hundred ducats, and it was fixed in the room in the Venetian fashion.
There were so many beautiful and natural figures and so much gold everywhere that I do not know whether in the time of Solomon, who was King of the Jews, in which silver was reputed more common than stones, there was such abundance as was displayed there. I had better not try and describe the ornaments of the bed and of the lady--that is, the coverings and the cushions, which were six in number, and the curtains--as I fear I should not be believed. They were in truth most wonderful.
I must tell about one other thing, however, which is true, and yet perhaps I shall not be believed, though it is certain that the ducal Ambassador would not let me lie. In the said chamber there were twenty-five Venetian damsels, one more beautiful than the other, who had come to visit the invalid. Their dress was most decent, as I said above, in the Venetian style. They did not show, however, less than four or six fingers' width of bare skin below their shoulders before and behind. Those damsels had so many jewels on the head, neck and hands--that is, gold, precious stones and pearls, that, in the opinion of those who were present, these must have been worth a hundred thousand ducats. Their faces were very well painted, and so was the rest of the bare skin that could be seen.
After staying a good while and contemplating the room and the persons in it, every man departed fasting; the custom in this respect differing from that observed at Milan, where at similar visitations a magnificent refection is provided. I think the Venetians consider that the refreshment of the eyes is enough; and I like the idea, because the refections offered at Milan on such occasions are a great expense, and those at Venice cost nothing.
On Monday, the 3rd of November, being the day of the commemoration of the dead, there was a festival, as on Sunday. I went to the Observant Monastery of Saint Dominic. The friars are good men. Having borrowed vestments from them I said a Mass for the souls of the departed.
On Tuesday, the 4th of November, I went again in the morning to the Monastery named, and there I said a Mass in fulfillment of a vow which fell to me by lot during the storm at sea. After this, as the weather had turned very cold, I set about making a provision of warm clothes to protect me, and attended to certain other affairs because I wanted to leave for Milan.
These things occupied me all Wednesday and the following Thursday, on which day I took leave of those to whom I was debtor, beginning with the Magnificent Don Tadiolo de Vicomercato, the ducal Ambassador, and then all the others, especially the Milanese.
On Friday, the 7th of November, I heard Mass in the Church of San Salvatore, and then, after taking a meal in the house of Don Giovanni Toretino, a citizen of Lucca, who, by reason of the great courtesy he had shown me during my sojourn in Venice, both going and returning from this voyage, had been a most delightful host, I went on board a boat near the Rialto in company with two Milanese merchants; and at the seventh hour, with the favour of God, we left Venice and set out towards Padua, where we arrived at the third hour of the night. We had a great deal of difficulty in entering the city. Finally, after mingling entreaties and gratuities, we were admitted by a certain postern gate and went to lodge at the Sun Inn, where, because the inn was full and we were late, we fared as the proverb says: "He who comes late has a poor supper and a worse bed."
On Saturday, the 8th of November, I took a horse on hire from the host, and having first dined, we set out towards Vicenza, which we reached at the twenty-second hour. There I found Raphaele da Palazzolo, a Milanese, who was on his way from the fair at Treviso, where he had bought three horses. He gave me one to ride as far as Milan, and I gave back the horse I had hired.
We left Vicenza without further delay and went to lodge at a place called Le Tavernelle, for no other reason except that we wanted to ride before daybreak.
On Sunday, the 9th of November, we left Le Tavernelle very early, and arrived in very good time at a place called Pillanova, where there is an excellent abbey.
After finding lodgings, we went to the abbey to hear Mass in order to do our duty. Although the abbey is rich there was only one friar to be found in the monastery. He had already said Mass, and if we wanted to hear Mass it was necessary for me to say it in very dirty vestments, to the shame of the person who holds the abbey in commendam. Enough! I do not want to say any more; but I marvelled greatly that the Signoria permits such a state of things.
Having said Mass as well as possible, and commended ourselves to God, according to the Commandment of the Holy Mother Church, we went to restore our bodies which had need of refection. Then we mounted on horseback and went as far as Verona, where we lodged early. As it was a festival, and we were warned that if we went further there was no good lodging to be found for a very long way, we decided to put up at the house of a good innkeeper who had been recommended to us. Then we went about the city to see the things we had not yet seen until supper-time.
On Monday, the 10th of November, we started out and made our first halt at Peschiera, where, because it was the Vigil of Saint Martin's day, and also because we saw a fine quantity of fish, we had a Lent dinner. Then riding on, we put up at a certain little inn called Saint Mark's Bridge, where we fared very badly. But we were constrained to stop there as it were by necessity. We had planned to pass the night at Lonato, but we heard that the place was everywhere full of soldiers gathered there for the muster, and we thought it wise to keep away from such company (Note 101).
On Tuesday, the 11th of November, Saint Martin's day, we rose early and rode to Brescia, where we dismounted and went to hear Mass at a little church situated in the Bishop's Court. A great festival was being held there in honour of Saint Martin, and a very solemn Mass chanted in the presence of the aforesaid Lord Bishop (Note 102). In my opinion he must have been very little at the Court of Rome to learn ceremonies and episcopal dignity, or if indeed he had learnt these things he practised them very little; and let that suffice.
When we returned to the inn we found certain Milanese who told us that some of my friends, hearing at Milan that I had arrived in Venice several days ago, had waited there two days to meet me, and that they had departed to return to Milan that very morning.
After dinner we mounted on horseback and set out towards Milan. When we reached Cuchai, we found those who had come to Brescia to meet us. They had stopped there because they had heard from certain merchants that we had left Brescia. They received us very affectionately. Amongst them there was the Secretary of the Magnificent Don Fermo Secchi, sent by his Magnificence to conduct me to a property of his called Calci. So we left Cuchai, notwithstanding that it was evening, and went to Calci, where we were excellently lodged.
On Wednesday, the 12th of November, after dinner at Calci, we went very early to Caravaggio, and how cordially we were received by the aforesaid Don Fermo I will not say, because it would have been oppressive for me to have accepted all he offered to me and to all my companions, for we were seven. If I had been a great prelate he could not have done more for me. And there I stayed until the following day.
Very early on Thursday, the 13th of November, I went to fulfil a vow I had made at sea--that is, to say a Mass at Our Lady of the Fountain at Caravaggio. After Mass I returned to the house because I wanted to mount with the company, but the aforesaid Don Fermo insisted on our having dinner before we departed, although it was early.
When dinner was over we took leave of the aforesaid Don Fermo and set out towards Milan, the city I had so greatly longed for both by sea and by land. When I heard, however, that his Excellency the Lord Lodovico Sforza, the new Duke of Milan, had made his entry at the eighteenth hour with the usual solemnities, I left my companions for several reasons, and especially because I did not want to enter Milan with so large a company--we were twenty horsemen--and remained alone at the Cassina di Rotuli in the house of Don Jacobo Rotulo, a Milanese Patrician. Although it was night and there was no one there save an old woman, nevertheless great honour was done me, and I rested there until the following morning.
On Friday, the 14th of November, by the grace of the Most High and Excellent God, I reached Milan and entered the city by the Porta Orientale, in pilgrim's dress and alone, although many of my friends had come to meet me at an early hour.
I first visited the principal church and thanked Our Lady for the notable help vouchsafed to me in the many perils I had passed through on this voyage, both by sea and by land. Then I went to see our Most Reverend Lord the Archbishop, who, as I said before, had given me the cross and bestowed his blessing upon me. He received me in his chapel most graciously, and did and said over me all that is laid down in the Pontifical to be done to a pilgrim when he returns to the fatherland. Thus with his blessing I went home, and was very joyfully welcomed by my friends.
If I have described this voyage at too great length I beg my readers to excuse me, because those who asked me to tell them about it wished me to write thus.
I have not said anything about the voyage to Saint Catherine in Mount Sinai because I could only do so from hearsay. When we were in Jerusalem, I, and certain other pilgrims, had already made provision for the journey as to the expense, but the friars of Mount Sion told us that it was impossible to go there. They said that the Arabs had plundered the monastery which has charge of the body of Saint Catherine, and killed the abbot and certain of the monks, and that until the Sultan takes measures no one will be able to go there in safety. On this account we gave up the idea of undertaking this journey.
Praise be to Thee, 0 Christ!