ON Thursday, the 29th of May, there was the great festival of the Corpus Domini (Note 45).I had heard from those who knew, that all the pilgrims were expected to assemble in the Church of St. Mark to join the procession. In order therefore, not to neglect my duty, and fearing lest otherwise I might not find a place, I went early in the morning to the palace of St. Mark, thinking to be among the first. There I found the royal and ducal ambassadors already congregated, and several bells were ringing continually in the bell- tower of St. Mark's. About the eleventh hour the most illustrious Doge descended from the palace to go into the Church of St. Mark. His name is the Lord Agostino Barbarigo (Note 46). He is a handsome old man, with a fine white beard, and wore his tiara on his head and a mantle made in the ducal fashion, as he always does when he appears in public. He was accompanied by the Reverend Father, the Lord Nicolo Francho, Bishop of Treviso (said to be the Papal legate), by the magnificent ambassadors aforesaid, and by a great number of Venetian gentlemen. These were dressed, one better than the other, in cloth of gold -- each more beautiful than the other -- crimson velvet, damask and scarlet; and each had his stole over his shoulder. As they entered the Church of St. Mark all the noises of the bells and every other noise ceased.

The aforesaid Doge was conducted to his seat (Note 47), which seemed to me very much in the background; that is to say, it was behind the choir; however, it was draped with cloth of gold. He was accompanied by the Ambassadors only. I was told that that is not his usual place, but only for that day in order to see the whole of the procession. The other gentlemen were all seated in the choir.

The musical Mass began, and was chanted by the most Reverend Lord the Patriarch of Aquileia, named the Lord Nicolo Donato (Note 48),because the Patriarch of Venice, whose name is the Lord Tommaso Donato (Note 49), and who belongs to the Order of the Preachers, was infirm. The aforesaid Lord of Aquileia was assisted by a large number of deacons and sub-deacons. A great silence was maintained -- more than I have ever observed on similar occasions -- even in seating so many Venetian gentlemen; every sound could be heard. One single person appeared to me to direct everything, and he was obeyed by every man without a protest. This filled me with astonishment, because I had never seen such perfect obedience at similar spectacles elsewhere.

The ceremonies of the Mass seemed to me much less solemn and impressive than the Milanese or Ambrosian, when the Mass is sung by our most Reverend Lord of Milan; nor did I see anything worth noting except that when the Gospel was ended, after the Patriarch had kissed the place of the Gospel, two deacons and as many sub-deacons went to the Excellent Doge and offered to him also the place of the Gospel to kiss. I did not notice any other unusual ceremony, save that when the Gloria in Excelsis, the Patrem Omnipotentem, the Sanctus and the Agnus Dei are said, four of the priests of St. Mark in their surplices and hoods go and stand before the Doge and there they repeat everything with him, as the Ordinaries of the Cathedral of Milan do before the Most Reverend Lord the Archbishop or some Papal Legate.

The Mass closed with the benediction, and after the declaration of the Indulgence, which was for forty-two days, the procession was set in movement by the organisers and directors in the following way: -- It entered by the great door of the said church, and mounting upwards into the choir, went close to the high altar, on which the body of Christ was placed in a transparent pix shaped like a golden throne. It stood upon a chalice, the largest I ever saw; they said it was of gold; it was very beautiful. Then the said procession turned to the right of the altar to leave the choir, and passed in front of the Doge and the Ambassadors, so that they saw it all without impediment.

The first to set out was the Scuola della Misericordia.(1) The brethren were all dressed in long white over garments, which had a small red sign on one side containing the name of the Misericordia. Certain of them, to the number of fifty-six, went in front, each carrying a beautiful gilded wooden candlestick; I mean like the long ones commonly used by the friars when they go in procession at home. They were so beautiful that I do not think anything could be added. For every candlestick there was a doppiero (2) of at least two pounds weight each, of green wax, and all lighted. Behind these walked a man who carried a very ornate cross -- with a certain little painted banderole -- on which the gold had not been spared to make it beautiful. Many boys followed after him, and I think there were some girls as well, to judge by their heads, arranged as they arrange the little angels. Each one of them carried in the hand a confectera or bowl of silver or some other vase such as they could carry, full of flowers and of rose leaves, and when they came where the aforesaid Doge was seated with the Ambassadors and the other gentlemen, they scattered the flowers over all of them, and there was a very sweet smell. After these children walkers many as five hundred brethren, all belonging to the said school, all dressed in white garments, as I said above, all in pairs, and each one of them carried a large lighted candle of green wax weighing six ounces. But before these brethren passed after their cross, there were certain singers who sang many praises by the way, and who -- when they came to the altar opposite the Sacrament of the body of Christ -- knelt down, and there they continued to sing praises until the said brethren had all passed; then they got up and followed the said school.

1. The Schools or "Scuole" were pious confraternaties and mutual aid societies, The most important were known as the "Souole Grandi dei Battuti." These werefivein number, as Casola relates, until the year l552, when the School of St.Theodore(founded in l268) was declared by the Council of Ten to be the sixth and last of the great schools.
2. A Doppiero is a torch formed of several wax candles fastened together.

Next came the brethren of Our Lady of Charity,(1) as they are called, in the order aforesaid, and wearing a similar dress, except that the red sign was different. In front, there were forty brethren with candlesticks as beautiful as the first. Their doppieri were of the same weight, but they were red. Behind them was their cross with its banner, and behind the cross many children arranged and adorned like the first; and they scattered flowers like the first. Then followed the singers, who did as was said of the first. After them walked five hundred brethren, each carrying a large candle, six ounces in weight, of green wax.

The Scuola di San Marco went next. All the brethren were dressed as has been said above -- that is, in white garments -- and the sign they wore on their breasts was a small St. Mark in red. Before their cross walked at least thirty-six brethren with their candlesticks, made as was said above, and the doppieri they held were of the same weight, but they were of white wax. There followed a great company of children adorned as I said above, and throwing flowers in the manner above mentioned. Then came their singers, who observed the order observed by the first. Behind them, there were at least five hundred brethren, each with his big lighted candle of white wax weighing also six ounces.

1. Scuola Grande della Carita.

Behind these walked the brethren of the Scuola di San Giovanni, preceded by twenty-eight of their number dressed, as is said, in white, and having a red mark different from the others. Their candlesticks were made like those above, and their doppieri were similar in weight, but of yellow wax, that is, the natural colour. Next to these came their cross with its banner, and behind the cross there was a great company of little angels, who threw flowers in the way described above. They were followed by at least two hundred brethren in white garments also, each carrying his great candle of six ounces, which was also of the natural colour. They were preceded by singers like the foregoing schools.

Finally, behind these walked the brethren of the Scuola di San Rocco, dressed like the others, though the red sign they wore was different from the others. Before their cross there were at least thirty-four of the brethren with magnificent candlesticks like the others, and as far as I could see their doppieri were grey, other people said they were black; be that as it may, they were of the same weight as the others. Then came their cross, as was said of the other schools; then many little boys dressed as little angels, who threw flowers as described above; then the singers, who did as the other singers did; and behind them at least two hundred brethren dressed as was said above, and each of them with his great candle of black or grey wax, also lighted.

After these schools there followed every kind of observant and conventual friars; from the Gesuati (Note 50) to those of the congregation of Santa Justina(1) there was not one lacking. Their number was counted up to eight hundred; really there were a few more, but not many. All, or the greater part of them, carried white doppieri or at least lighted candles in their hands, and they all wore the most beautiful vestments they possess. So beautiful were they that we cannot come even after them. For I saw certain pluvials that between the border(2) and the cape had so many and such large and beautiful pearls that they appeared to me worth all the vestments in our city. I cannot describe the abundance of the brocades of every kind, because there were so many that my eyes became confused, and I lost count. After the friars all the clergy followed in good order with their crosses well adorned, but their vestments were not rich; indeed, they seemed to me very old-fashioned and of small value. The only other observation I will make about the Venetian clergy is, that they are few in number compared with our clergy; for, comparing them with the clergy of Milan, even the Stradioti(3)-- who are those without benefices -- are more numerous than all the clergy of Venice.

The clergy were followed by sixty men in togas -- twelve for each of the above-named schools, which are five in number--and each one of them had in his hand a large and heavy doppiero. I think the weight of each must have been not less than thirty-six or forty pounds, and there were twelve of every colour used by the said schools,as I said above. When I asked what order they belonged to, I was told that they were twelve brethren of each of the said schools, and all Venetian gentlemen, and they went thus in procession two by two.

1. Santa Justina or Giustina was a Paduan of Royal birth, martyred as a Christian under Maximian. She was a Saint of the Benedictine Order.
2. That is the border which goes round the neck and down the front.
3. The light cavalry, formed of Albanese, Dalmatians, Greeks, &c., and employed by the Venetians in their wars were known as "Stradioti." Perhaps from a certain quaint analogy Casola applied the term to the unbeneficed clergy, who were frequently to be seen hurrying along the streets (Strade) from one church to another to say mass.

When all these had passed by, the aforenamed most Reverend Lord the Patriarch, who had chanted the Mass, took up the Sacrament of the body of Christ arranged as I said, and followed after them. He was accompanied only by those who had assisted him at Mass, and the canopy was carried by priests only. Thus he commenced to walk after the procession, which, proceeding as I said, went out by the door which led to the palace of St. Mark, and passed through the court of the palace. Behind him, the aforesaid Doge took his place, together with the Ambassadors, and after them the Lord Councillors and the other gentlemen. The pilgrims who were there, being very courteously invited to do so, followed, and were paired with the aforesaid gentlemen as long as there were any pilgrims unaccompanied. At the said door of Saint Mark's, by which the procession went out, there were two priests, one on the right side and the other on the left, who offered a white lighted candle of six ounces and more to each person, beginning with the aforesaid Doge down to the end, and to the pilgrims as well as the others. And so they went in procession.

It must be noted that the said procession did not go further than out of the door of Saint Mark's, as I said, and all round the piazza, which was covered the whole way it went with white cloths. At the side of the course taken by the procession many oak trees -- otherwise called rovere(1) and other kinds of trees were planted in such numbers that it would have sufficed

1. A very hard kind of wood (lat. Robur).

if they had had all the woods of Bachano(1) over the doors. And another magnificent thing; beside the said trees many large candlesticks of every kind stood, which contained lighted doppieri. Thus the procession returned to St. Mark's Church.

When the Sacrament of the body of Christ had been restored, its place, the Doge was accompanied by every man to the palace, where he placed himself at the head of the staircase until all the gentlemen had mounted with the pilgrims; and then, saluting all the company, he went into the palace to his own apartments, and each one returned to his own house or hostel, for it was dinner time.

On Friday, which was the 30th of May, as I was assured that the Magnificent Captain of the galley did not intend to depart for four days, I employed the time in visiting the eights of Venice until the following Sunday, which was the 1st of June. I still hoped that some Lombard would arrive with whom I could join for the living on the galley, but no one appeared. I had the benefit of the advice of a certain Don Giovanni Toretino, a merchant of Lucca, settled, however, in Venice, who, by reason of the letters of Don Jacobo Rotuli, of Fra Ghiringhelo, and of Don Francesco di Roma, had received me into his house, and treated me very hospitably.

On Monday, the 2nd of the month of June, I went with the aforenamed Don Giovanni to see Don Agostino Contarini, Patrono of the pilgrim galley, and, although I had previously arranged to pay him forty-five ducats, I gave up that bargain, and agreed to pay sixty gold ducats of the Mint of Venice. For this he undertook to keep me by sea and by land and take me as far as the River Jordan if I wished to go there, and give me a place at his own table. I paid down, then and there, thirty ducats in advance.

On Tuesday, the 3rd of June, I bought a chest and a mattress and sent them and also my other things aboard the galley, which was being loaded for the departure. That evening, out of regard for me, the aforementioned Don Giovanni invited the Venerable Don Frate Francesco Trivulzio to supper, and I did the cooking Milanese fashion, especially a pasty.

1. The forest of Baccano, 27 kilometres north-west from Rome, served in the middle ages as an asylum for numerous bands of brigands.

Casola and the other Pilgrims go on Board the Jaffa Galley.--Description of the Galley.--The Officers and Crew.--The Number of Pilgrims.--First Day at Sea.--Parenzo.--The Cathedral.-- Absenteeism of the Clergy.--The Franciscan Monastery.--Church of St. Nicholas.--Voyage to Zara--Cathedral._Franciscan Monastery.--Church of St. Simeon.--Relic of that Saint.--Sermon Preached in the Cathedral at Zara by Fra. F. Trivulzio.--Departure from Zara.

ON Wednesday, the 4th of June, at sunset, having taken leave first of the Magnificent Don Tadiolo Vicomercato, the ducal Ambassador, and also of the other friends, I entered a boat in the company of the aforesaid Fra Francesco and certain other pilgrims and non-pilgrims to go to the galley. This had gone outside the port to a place called "Above the Two Castles,"(1) five miles distant from Venice they say, and there we went on board the galley, which was called the Jaffa Galley.

Outside it has the shape of the other Venetian galleys. It is eighty braccia(2) long, and where it is widest it is only twenty braccia. There is a platform all round outside, projecting from the body of the galley, more than a braccio wide, which is supported by numerous brackets attached to the body of the galley. On this platform many bales of merchandise and also many barrels andcasks of wine are packed. Towards the bottom the galley is almost round, and diminishes from the middle down- wards. From the middle, where it begins to diminish downwards, three out of the four parts are full of sand and gravel in order that the galley may draw enough water and stand firm, and in the sand many barrels and casks of wine were stored for the majority of the pilgrims.

1. Beyond the two Castles of Sant' Andrea and San Nicoletto at the entrance to the Lido Channel.
2. The Venetian Braccio (for measuring wool)=.683396 metres.
The Venetian Braccio (for measuring silk) =.638721meters.
The Milanese Braccio (for measuring silk) = .594936 meters.

Over the said sand there was a floor of boards which could be taken up if necessary, and on the said floor there was built a kind of hall almost sixty braccia long, which stretched from the mizzen mast to the prow. The ceiling of this hall, between one extremity and the other, was supported by strong columns, and it formed the deck of the galley. The said deck was made of strong planks and well tarred, so that the rainwater and the seawater could not penetrate into the room below.

The fourth part of the galley -- that is, from the mizzen mast backwards --was divided, first, into a place called the poop, which has three divisions. The lower is called the pizolo -- a place conceded to distinguished men for sleeping, and also reserved for the storage of munition and of merchandise belonging to the captain and others at the discretion of the captain. In the middle region, which is called the poop proper, the tables are spread for meals, and there is also a small altar where Dry Mass (Note 51) was said for the captain; and at night many mattresses were spread here for sleeping, according to the distribution of the places amongst the pilgrims or other passengers. Many weapons, too, are attached to the roof of the said place -- crossbows, bows, swords and other kinds of weapons -- for the defence of the galley in case of need; and in that place all the tackle of the galley is made. Above the said poop proper there is a place called the Castle, where, for the most part, the captain lived, and also any great persons, if such there happened to be aboard. It is floored with tarred planks, so that however much it rains, no water can enter the poop. The navigating compass was kept in the castle, and on the voyage this castle was covered, first with canvas and then with a curtain of red cloth on which the ensign of the Sepulchre and also the arms of the Contarini family were embroidered.

Behind the aforesaid castle a place is arranged for managing the rudder of the galley, which is moved by the force of men's arms alone. Several times, when there was a great storm at sea, more than two men were needed to manage it, and it is moved by means of a thick rope. Further behind, there was a place where two terra-cotta vessels full of water were kept, and also a place necessary for purging the body: and these all projected outside the body of the galley, on timbers well tarred and well joined together. I cannot well describe the great size and weight of that rudder, but I may say that when we were in the port of Rhodes and it was in need of repair, several men were required to drag it ashore, and it was a grand instrument to look at.

About ten braccia outside the poop there was a fixed mast -- that is, one which is never moved -- about as large as could be embraced by a tall man; the sail-yard was fixed to it with the sail called the Mezzana, (1)and there were cords on both sides which were always pulled on the side away from the sail according to the direction of the wind. After passing the said mast, on the right side, there was the captain's canteen, where not only water, but every kind of wine was kept; and in that same place there was a store of cheese and sausages of every kind--that is, of meat and also of fish.(2)

1. The mizzen sail.
2. Fish sausages are still made in Milan.

Opposite the door of the said canteen there was the kitchen, called the Foghone,(1) which extended towards the side of the galley and contained many utensils and necessaries for cooking. There were numbers of large and small cauldrons, frying- pans and soup-pots -- not only of copper, but also of earthenware -- spits for roasting and other kitchen utensils. Further along that side there were two places, one over the other, where the live animals were kept which were killed in case of need when fresh meat could not be obtained on land. They were fed on barley, but very sparingly, so that at the end of the voyage there was more skin than flesh. From here to the end of the galley many benches were fixed, called balestriere,(2)and between one bench and another there was space for two oars which after all were very little used.

After passing down the centre of the galley, going towards the prow, there was a large mast fixed, which in its lower part could only be embraced by three men, and it reached to the bottom of the galley. I was told by the master who had bought it, that it was more than sixty braccia long. There was a cage at the top, and below the cage the yards, made in three pieces, hung down. A great sail called the artimone,3 made entirely of white canvas, was usually hoisted there. Many cords hung from the said mast, and on each side there were twelve ropes fastened to the side of the galley which were drawn on the side opposite the sail according to the weather and the winds. The said mast had also another very long rope hanging down, and still another, called the angel, that was often used to hoist something up to the top of the mast. There was another sail called the cochina.

1. i.e., The "big fire."
2. Strictly speaking the "Balestriere" were openings in the bulwarks_between the benches at which the Galleotti sat to row_for the "Balestre" or crossbows.
3. The main sail.

The artimone and the mezzana were pointed; this was square,and was only used in a great storm. At the head of the galley -- that is, at the prow -- there was a small mast with a square sail; it was called the trinchetto,(1)and was often hoisted and often taken down.

On the said galley there were so many heavy cables called gomene used for various purposes, and also others of medium thickness, that they were worth a thousand ducats, according to what I was told. I could easily believe it, because when I was talking to the captain he told me that he had paid a hundred and fifty ducats for one cable alone for casting the anchor into the sea, and he had two others. It was enormously thick and six hundred and twenty-five feet (2) long. I doubt whether two Milanese waggons with two pair of oxen to each waggon could have carried all the ropes there were on the said galley.

On the left side of the said galley, beginning at the poop and proceeding towards the prow_on deck I mean -- there was no other impediment except the benches called balestriere with the oars as I said above -- and this as far as the prow.

On the deck of the said galley, beginning at the poop, as far as the main mast of the galley, there were a row of large cases (Note 52) down the centre, each of which was two braccia wide, over two braccia long and two braccia high, and all were tarred outside so that the water might not damage them. They were so well arranged one after the other that they made a raised platform down the centre of the galley called the corsia. There were other similar cases from the said mast as far as the prow; but these last were always covered with the heavy cables for casting the anchors. Around the said mast some of the cases were disposed so as to form a small platform called the extimaria; and there, the officers appointed for that purpose administered justice to the galeotti.

1. The fore sail.
2. A Venetian foot= .347735 metres.

On the said galley there was the aforenamed Magnificent Don Agostino Contarini, a Venetian patrician, the principal Patrono, who had four young men to serve him. There were with him two Venetian gentlemen,(1) assigned to him by the Signoria (Note 53) ; but Don Agostino gave them so much a month and maintained them at his own table. The said captain had an officer called the comito, who, after the captain, was obeyed by all, in what concerned the government of the galley. There was another officer called the parono, who looked after the provisionment of the galley, and was usually the first to leave the galley when anything had to be done. Then there were other eight companions,(2) to whom more than to the others the management of the galley was entrusted; and these, together with several others, were called balestrieri (Note 54). Finally, there were many other men called galeotti, and altogether for the management and defence of the galley there were a hundred and forty persons. Amongst these were men of every existing trade and craft, and when the sea was not stormy they followed their trades. The majority of them, and especially of the experienced sailors, were Sclavonians and Albanians; there were also a few Lombards, but not many. There was not a single man of them who had not some kind of merchandise on the galley, according to the terms of the agreement made when they were engaged; and when the galley entered a port they took the said

1. These were apprentices to the sea. Each galley was obliged by law to take a certain number in proportion to its size.
2. ie., The Patrician Balestrieri -- as distinguished from their non-noble fellow crossbow-men.

merchandise ashore and established a sort of fair. There were more than three thousand pieces of cloth alone on board, and so much other merchandise besides, that, unless he saw it, no man could believe that the galley was capable of carrying so much cargo in addition to the passengers and crew. Nor without seeing them could anyone believe that the galeotti were so obedient as they were, for at a whistle from the comito all the men raised their heads and asked, "What's your will ?" There were three trumpets and good trumpeters, and besides the aforesaid persons there were one hundred and seventy pilgrims, counting men and women,(1) friars, priests and hermits, Ultramontanes and Italians; and all had places assigned for their chests on which they slept if there was room enough. Much more might be said about the said galley, but I will leave something for another time and return to when I went on board the galley for the first time.

The greater number of us, both pilgrims and also the friends who accompanied us, were already upset by the sea, and I more so than the others because I had never been to sea before. I was therefore obliged to make up my mind to go and take possession immediately of the place assigned to me below deck; and God willed that I should find myself neighbour to a Lombard, called Bernardino Scotto (Note 55), who, although we were not otherwise intimate, was nevertheless a good neighbour to me. Behind us, so they said, was the place of the magnificent captain.

1. The Germans, Bemmelberg and Parsberg, who went on the same pilgrimage, mention that amongst the company there were "24 monks and 20 women." Deutsche Pilgerreisen,Rohricht, p. 183.

On Thursday, the 5th of June, having passed through my share of the tribulation due to the sea, I went on deck at the second hour of the day, leaving my companions below; and I stood to watch the spreading of all the sails of the galley to the sound of the trumpets and the chanting of several friars and other pilgrims. It was a very interesting sight, especially for a person who had never seen the like. At first we had a favourable wind, so that at the eighteenth hour the mariners said we had made as much as sixty miles going towards the city of Parenzo. This particular part of the sea is called the Gulf of Trieste. After the said hour, however, there was a calm at sea which so fixed the galley that it remained quite still until night. Then a slight wind sprang up accom- panied by rain, and the mariners, thinking it might favour us, spread all three sails, hoping to reach Parenzo at least by the morning. But they were disappointed, for the wind changed, and there was nothing to do but await a change in the weather, and meanwhile let the galley go as it would, thus drifting out of the path and drawing nearer the coast.

On Friday, the 6th of June, at the sixteenth hour, we arrived opposite Parenzo (Note 56), and had it not been necessary to procure a supply of mutton for the galley the captain would have passed by without stopping. However, he made the port, but he refused to allow any of the pilgrims to go on land; nevertheless, yielding at last to the entreaties of many, especially of the preacher, Father Francesco Trivulzio, he gave them license for an hour. Those who wanted to go had to hire the boats from the fishermen and pay them well. In order to see as much as possible I joined the aforesaid preacher very gladly, because in truth he was treated with great respect, and everything was shown to him without much difficulty. I did the same all the voyage long as he was well, and his Reverence also liked to have my company. Thus we entered the city of Parenzo, situated in Istria, which they say is a hundred miles from Venice.

It is an ancient city; it appears to me to be a citadel situated in the plain, which has been re-built. I do not know to what I can compare it for size; if I say to the city of Corbetta(1) it is too little, if I say Abbiategrasso(2) it is too much; it is collected there what little there is.

We went to the Cathedral. It is an ancient church, and I think it must have been very beautiful, judging by the mosaics of the tribune and by the pavement which shows some signs still of having been worked in mosaic. Now, owing I think to the absenteeism of the pastors, the church has a neglected appearance. Amongst others, I saw one thing which showed me that there are very honest people in that city -- more so than at home -- for in the choir of the said church there was not a stall (it is true there were not many of them) which had not the surplice of a priest thrown over the back. I asked who they belonged to, and was told they belonged to the Canons. I am certain that if I left one of mine at our Cathedral or at the Church of St. Ambrose I should find either two or none when I got back. The said church has a little atrium in front, as the churches at Rome have and also our Saint Ambrose -- and the baptistery is at the end. I think few persons go there because everywhere the grass is long.

Amongst others, I saw the Convent of St. Francis. It is a miserable place; I did not see a single friar there. Suffice it to say that the aforesaid Don Frate Francesco said it would be better if there were none. From what I could see, hear and also taste, the said city has red wines which are good and pleasant to look at; there seems to be a dearth of all other victuals except mutton.

1. Corbetta, a small place 18 kilometres west of Milan, near the road to Magenta and Novara.
2. Abbiategrasso, on the Ticino, south of Magenta, and south-west of Milan. It was famous for the Castle of Filippo Maria Visconti, Duke of Milan.

We went to visit a church dedicated to Saint Nicholas, built on a rock in the sea opposite the said city. It is very beautiful, and was built with the offerings of sailors, to whom it is a great object of devotion. It is administered by two monks and two lay brothers of the Order of the Observants of Saint Benedict, who have a beautiful olive grove on the said rock, said to be their only source of income. The said city is subject to the Signoria of Venice.

We stayed there until the twenty-second hour, and then, notwithstanding that the sea had calmed down, all the sails were spread and turned, now to this side, now to that, to catch the different winds that sprang up -- now bonanza,(1) now provenza,(2) now garbino,(3) now scirocco.(4) And thus we went, turning now to the right and now to the left through the sea called the Sino Fanatico, and passed many towns and villages on both sides. Anciently the people of these parts were called Liburnians. Continuing thus as I said, we came to a certain gulf called the Quarnero,(5) very difficult to navigate.

As we had not a favourable wind that night or on Saturday, the 7th of June, we did not make much progress, in spite of the efforts made to hasten, now with the sails and now with the oars, though not much with the oars because they were of little use with that galley.(6) All on board were anxious to reach Zara, and as many of us were new to the sea it was more disagreeable to us than even to the sailors.

1. A calm at sea.
2. West wind.
3. South-west wind, otherwise galled Libeccio or Africano.
4. South-east wind.
5. i.e., The Gulf of Flume.
6. There were only two oars to each bench. If, as seems probable. the galley was a Trireme, it would have had three oars to each bench, when it was of more importance to increase speed than to keep down expenses.

On Sunday, the 8th of June, by the grace of God, we arrived at Zara (Note 57), the right name of which is Jadra, at the ninth hour of the day. As many small boats came alongside we all landed with great joy, and went to hear Mass and afterwards to dinner. And as the captain had landed to furnish the galley with certain things, I set about seeing the said city, having nothing else to do. It is in a plain, and not very large, but it is bright and clean, and has some beautiful buildings. It has no moat round it nor any drawbridges; but it is surrounded by fine high walls. There is a castle at one angle which has very much the appearance of a fortress as far as can be seen. All the city is paved with little hard pebbles in such a way that many of our Milanese (I mean those who have gouty feet) could not walk about there very comfortably. I did not see a single fine palace, but only humble houses, and as I said fine walls. There is a small square piazza before the place where the Governors sent by the Signoria administer justice;1 I did not see any other piazza.

I went to the Cathedral of the city, which is dedicated to Saint Anastasia. The body of the church is very fine. The centre is high and in the shape of a galley, and there is a long, round, vaulted roof made of wood on which the Old Testament story has been painted by good masters. There is a choir well adorned with stalls after our fashion; they are beautiful, and rightly so, for it is the archi- episcopal church. There are no vaulted chapels in the body of the church, but there are altars at the sides, well

1. The Count or Governor of Zara, in 1494, was Ser Psolo Erizzo, son of the late Ser Antonio. The captain was Ser Michael Salomono. See "Segretarlo alle Voci," Reg. vi.

adorned with altar pieces -- majestate(1) as we call them -- in relief and well gilded. Over the choir, high up between one wall and the other, besides the crucifix, which is in the middle and very ornate, there is a beam which supports fourteen very large figures all covered with gold; they are beautiful and very natural.

I saw the Franciscan Monastery belonging to the Observant friars; it is very beautiful, and so also is the church. Being in the city, the friars have not a large garden in which to take their recreation as they have in many other places.

I went with the other pilgrims according to arrangement to the Church of Saint Simeon, where after Vespers were sung the body of Saint Simeon was shown -- a very remarkable relic -- certainly the most beautiful I ever saw, either at Rome or elsewhere. The body is perfectly preserved, there is nothing in the world lacking, either in the face or in the hands or in the feet. The mouth is open, and in the upper jaw there are no teeth; I was not surprised at that, because he was very old when he died. He it was to whom the Holy Spirit declared that he should not see death until he had seen the Son of God, and he it was who took our Lord Jesus Christ in his arms when he was presented in the Temple by our Lady, and who said: "Nunc dimittis servum tuum Domine, secundum verbum tuum in pace, etc."(2) I went several times to see the relic because there was a great crowd of pilgrims and also of people belonging to the city and country round who came there because it was a holiday. And the more I looked the more it seemed to me a stupendous thing, most of all when I remembered the time of his death which could not be less than one thousand four hundred and ninety-three years ago. The body was very carefully guarded; the Governors of the city -- Venetians as I said -- keep the keys. The church is very beautiful. In the choir there are as many as ten very handsome stalls. The choir is only finished in one part. I calculated that they will finish the rest in time because what is already finished is new. High above the place where the said most holy relic is kept there is an arch, all of silver-gilt, on which the presentation of Christ in the Temple is sculptured. In the middle of the said arch there is an inscription in Latin which records how a Queen of Hungary caused it to be made. The pilgrims offered many oblations there, and touched the said relic with rosaries, rings, etc.

1. See Note, p. 173.
2. "Lord now lettest Thou Thy servant depart in peace according to Thy word." -- Luke, ii.29.

In the said city there is a good abbey belonging to the Order of Saint Benedict, dedicated to Saint Chrysogonus the Martyr. It is held in commendam and goes like the others. There are also several other churches in the same circumstances.

On Monday, the 9th of June, I heard Mass and also the sermon preached by the above-mentioned Don Fra Francesco in the Cathedral. It was very beautiful -- concerning the conversion of sinners. He took for his text "Gaudium Magnum erit, etc." 1

After dinner the order was given to the pilgrims by a trumpeter, who went throughout the city sounding and saying that every man must return to the galley, because a wind called scirocco -- which had kept us all the preceding night and up to the eighteenth hour of the above-named day -- had dropped. When all had come aboard, the galley sailed away at the nineteenth hour. It is said to be over three hundred miles from Zara to Venice.

1. "Great joy shall be in heaven over one sinner that repenteth." -- Luke, xv. 7.

Voyage continued among the Rocks of Sclavonia. -- Pilot runs the Galley on to a Sandbank. -- Alarm on Board but no Damage done. -- Island of Lissa. -- Trau. -- Spalato. -- Lesina. -- Curzola. -- Melita. -- Arrival at Ragusa. -- Description of that City. -- The Cathedral. -- The Patron Saint Blaise. -- Franciscan Convent and Church. -- Dominican and Benedictine houses. -- Palace of the Governor. -- The Arsenal. -- Water Supply of the City. -- Forti- fications. -- Productions. -- The People and Customs. -- The Government. -- Sermon Preached by Fra. F. Trivulzio in the Cathedral. -- The Galley leaves Ragusa.

AFTER navigating slowly, with only a little garbino,(1) it was found that -- amongst those rocks of Sclavonia, which are numberless and very arid and stony -- we had gone seventy miles from Zara up to the following Tuesday, which was the 10th of June. Then the sea -- or one might rather say among those rocks, the canal, because it did not appear to me wider than the River Po in Lombardy -- settled into a calm.

On Tuesday, at the third hour of the day, the scirocco(2) rose again, and drove the galley backwards. All the sails were hauled down, and the anchors had to be cast, to the great perturbation of the captain, who wished as much as the pilgrims did to continue the voyage. Thus we remained until Wednesday morning.

1. The south-west wind -- otherwise called Libeccio or Africano.

2. The south-east wind.

On Wednesday, the 11th of June, at sunrise, he ordered the sails to be spread, as he thought that a favourable wind had arisen; but the weather suddenly changed, and all the sails being again furled he ordered the anchors to be cast once more. It was found that only one mile had been made all that morning, and the captain and also his councillors thought of returning to Zara because the bread began to run short, and already it was necessary to begin on the biscuits; and although there is a dwelling here and there amongst those rocks, nevertheless there is no bread to be had; nothing in fact but a little mutton and also a few goats. Further, seeing that he could not proceed on the voyage because the adverse wind continued, the captain thought it would cost less to turn back and put into Zara, for there was no other place in which he could take refuge. We were very near the city of Sebenico, but he could not go there because the galley was so large, as I said, that it could not be propelled by the oars. So we remained thus with great inconvenience to the pilgrims, great loss for the captain, who had all the expense and could not proceed on the voyage, and extreme fatigue for the galeotti, who had to spread the sails and furl them so often and throw the anchors and heave them again. It excited one's compassion to see so much weary work, hardly to be believed by one who has not seen it; nevertheless things remained thus.

On Thursday, the 12th of June, at sunrise or shortly after, a favourable wind arose. The main sail and also the mizzen sail were spread, and, thanking God with words and also with the sound of the trumpets, we set out on our journey, passing still among those rocks of Sebenico in Sclavonia.

At dinner time when the greater part of the pilgrims were at table, some above and some below, there was a great uproar on board the galley. All the sails were lowered at once, and it seemed as if we were about to founder. Everybody was terribly alarmed, and no one understood what had really happened save the sailors; nevertheless those who understood and those who did not, left their dinner. Those who were below deck, as they did not understand what had occurred, had no further fear. I was amongst those who were afraid, because I was at the captain's table with others assigned to the same table, and the peril was only realized by those above. It was of such a nature that we thought we should all be drowned. This is what had happened. It is the rule for this galley to take a guide -- a person with much experience of the sea -- who begins at Venice and goes as for as Parenzo. At Parenzo, another is taken as far as Modone. At Modone another is taken as far as Jaffa. It appears that the guide or pilot, as they call him, taken at Parenzo had lost his way among those Dalmatian rocks, and had allowed the galley to drift on to a shallow, so that the helm bounced three times out of the helmeman's hand, and it was thought that a hole had been made in the bottom of the galley. But God had mercy on the many souls who were on the said galley, and especially on so many religious of all kinds as there were aboard; and on examination it was found that whereas it had been thought that the ship had struck on a rock, it had only touched mud or sand. Thus we passed the danger, and although we were in great peril, no damage was done.

When the mariners breathed freely again they put up the sails once more, as we had the wind in our favour, and thus pursuing the way, we passed many islands on our right hand, amongst which was the island called the island of Sant' Andrea, barren and uninhabited. After this came the island of Lissa, which is fertile and excellently supplied with good wines and other fruit, and has also a great trade in sardines. I think they are those fish they sometimes sell for anchovies to those who do not know the difference. On the left side of our course after leaving Sebenico we passed the city of Trau, and also the city of Spalato, as it is called, which is a very flourishing city; and all are subject to the Signoria of the Venetians. At length, by the grace of God, at the third hour of the night, we arrived at the city of Lesina, otherwise called Fara (Note 95). As it was night the pilgrims were not allowed to land, nor were the requests of the galeotti -- who wanted some provision for the galley -- granted. Nothing was taken on board but a little water.

On Friday, the 13th of June, we left the canal of Lesina after sunrise and made sail with a very slight wind; but as the day advanced the wind improved and we came opposite the citadel of Curzola (Note 58), which is beautiful to look at from the outside. The captain did not wish to stop there for fear of losing the favourable wind, and thus we passed by, and could only admire the place from the outside; it is said to be sixty miles from Lesina. The captain related that a few years ago King Ferdinand, the former King of Naples, sent his fleet there to try and steal it from the Venetians, but he failed completely because the people of Curzola were valiant, and defended themselves from that attack without additional help from the Signoria of Venice, to whom they are subject.

On the morning of Saturday, the 14th of June, we found ourselves opposite an island of the Ragusans, on the right hand, called Melita, having passed the other islands of Curzola during the preceding night. On the left hand, on the mountains also belonging to the Ragusans, there was a very large place called Stagno, they said. From the galley nothing could be seen save the top of one belltower, on account of the various mountains. The aforesaid captain, whom I often questioned as to the things we saw, told me that the said place was as large as Ragusa, but not so populous. Salt is made there, and they said that the Ragusans gain every year over forty thousand ducats from the salt, besides the salt they use themselves; it is beautiful and white.

Thus pursuing our course with a good wind we came to Ragusa (Note 59), a city of Dalmatia, at the twentieth hour, and entered the port with a great display of banners and signals from the mortars and trumpets. Many Ragusans flocked on to the quay of the port, and many boats came to the galley to take off the pilgrims and also the galeotti, who carried away their merchandise to do their business as they desired in the market of Ragusa. All the pilgrims went ashore,especially thoses who were well enough to move; and with a great longing to refresh themselves, they entered the said city of Ragusa, in Dalmatia or Sclavonia.

For its size the city is beautiful in every respect. It is on the seashore, and has very strong walls, especially on the land side. The said walls are twenty-four feet 1 thick, so I was told. I measured them in several places, and they did not exceed twenty feet; perhaps that was due to the fact that the measure I used was larger than the others. There are many towers on the walls, and one at an angle towards the mainland is larger than the others. I climbed the said walls with the aforesaid Don Fra Francesco, who was accompanied by many friars of his Order. From that tower the plan of the said city can be seen very well. The said city appears to me to be triangular. On two sides it is washed by the sea; on the other, which is the land side, there is a high mountain. One street begins at the gate, which is entered from the port, and goes the length of the city to the gate where stands the Franciscan Convent; and on both sides of the said street there are shops of all kinds. The said city is flat in the centre, and all the rest seems to me to ascend. The houses are beautiful in appearance, and they are numerous and close together, so that nothing could be added.

1. The Venetian foot squalled .347735 metres. The Milanese foot equalled .435185 metres. Casola, no doubt being a Milanese, used the Milanese measures.

The chief church, dedicated to Our Lady, is small for an archiepiscopal church. Nevertheless it is very beautiful, and more beautiful outside than inside. Outside it is built of stones white like marble, and there is a beautiful arcade -- with beautiful little columns -- by which one can walk all round the exterior of the church. One can go round inside as well, and even the women go there above the side naves of the said church. The choir of the said church is small, but it has a beautiful majesta,(1) after our fashion, with several figures in silver gilded over. I did not see any other handsome object in the said church. The patron saint of the Ragusans is Saint Blaise,(2) and I think he is greatly venerated because many of the said Ragusans and also many Sclavonians outside of Ragusa are called Blaise. The Ragusans have another church near the Cathedral and also near the piazza. For its size it is very ornate, and built of beautiful marble within and without.

1. ie., An altar-piece of wood or metal with figures of the saints, &c., in relief.
2. St. Blaise was Bishop of Sebaste in Cappadocia. He is the Patron Saint of Wool Combers, and of all who suffer from diseases of the throat, and also the patron saint of wild animals. He was martyred in 289. As the patron saint of Ragusa, he was represented In his episcopal robes on the coins of the city, holding in one hand a crosier, and in the other an iron comb such as wool combers use. See Mrs. Jameson, Sac. and Leg., Art ii. 696.

In the said city there is a Franciscan Convent. The friars live in good observance, and Frate Francesco Trivulzio lodged there with his companions. Considering it is in this city of Ragusa, it is, in my opinion, the most beautiful I have seen on this journey_I mean outside of Venice. It has a beautiful church. The altar has a majesty in silver gilt containing two rows of large figures with twelve figures in each row. In the upper row, in the centre, there is a God the Father; in the centre of the lower row there is Our Lady with her Son in her arms; and, as I said, everything is of silver. For greater ornament there are many jewels of every colour, and they are so large that I doubt strongly that they can be genuine, because if they were genuine, there would be a great treasure there, little guarded. I did not find anyone who could remove that doubt from my mind. On the left side of the said church there is a little chapel which was also a beautiful majesta with several figures in silver gilded over. The said church has a large and beautiful choir, and it has a beautiful sacristy very well furnished with certain relies covered with silver. Amongst other notable things, I saw five volumes of books which contain the Psalter; I think there are none more beautiful among Christian peoples.

The convent could not be improved. It has a beautiful cloister and a chapter house which contains three very ornate altars, and also refectories, dormitories, etc. Everything belonging to such a place is ornate. Amongst other things there are three gardens-- each one higher than the other by at least eight steps -- planted with oranges, pomegranates and other notable things; these gardens dominate all the buildings. Then all the friars are the most warm-hearted and hospitable I ever met, for, besides the affectionate attention they showed to the aforesaid Fra Francesco and his companions, they showed the same also to me; and I hear that they constantly offer hospitality, especially to foreigners and Italians.

The said city has a beautiful priory belonging to the observants of Saint Dominic. It has also several convents for women observants. Outside the city, on a rock in the sea, there is a monastery of the Order of Saint Benedict, belonging to the congregation of Santa Justina. Certainly it is a place adapted for monks, and full of every charm_they are remote from all society, they are surrounded by the sea, and they have beautiful gardens. If the building is finished as it has been begun it will be a most beautiful place; the work is continually going on there.

For its size the said city has a beautiful palace constantly inhabited by the Governor, called the Captain. Inside, amongst other things, there is a beautiful hall, built in the likeness of the hall at Venice, where the Venetian gentlemen hold their Great Council, and with similar benches. It is true that the seats are not gilded, as they are at Venice, for seating the Great Council; the ceiling, however, is adorned with gold and fine blue. Then there is a certain very ornate hall, where the aforesaid Governor holds audience together with the ten wise men. In the said palace there is an armoury, where, among other things, they showed a certain quantity of arms sent as a present by the Most Illustrious Lord the Duke of Milan.l The said Ragusans have, moreover, like the Venetian gentlemen, a place built towards the port, which they call the Arsenal, where they also construct galleys and sailing ships. At that time there were four there partly finished and partly unfinished.

1. Probably the present was sent during the war between Venice and FerrarA, 1482-84, when Milan took the side of the latter against the Venetian Republic

The Ragusans have an aqueduct of fresh water which comes from a long distance, and by means of that aqueduct they turn nine mills in various places outside the city; then entering the city it supplies many places, especially two where there are two public fountains-- one which has many mouths at the gate of the Franciscan Convent, and the other near the piazza, also with several mouths. The people flock there to draw the water. The said aqueduct also supplies the Franciscan friars. In the said city there are many cisterns for collecting the rain water which is better for drinking purposes than the water of the said aqueduct.

On the land side the Ragusans have a great many beautiful gardens, in which they have very ornate houses, and they go there for amusement. They have a quantity of vines, and they make good malmseys and many other wines, according to the locality.

They have a castle outside city on a certain small hill near the sea. I do not know what use it could be to them, nor do I understand how it could receive succour from the city if by misfortune it were taken by assault. When I asked a Ragusan what good it would be to the city if an army were there and no succour could be given, he said that help could be given from a certain tower in the city by means of a cord. It appeared to me a very absurd answer, and I gave the matter up. I will only
add that they change the Governor of the castle every day, not by the popular voice but solely at the will of the Governor for the time being. A guard is also posted on a hill which dominates the city on the land side.

From what I could hear they do not produce enough grain for their needs, and they import what is lacking from Apulia. As I said, they make good red wines and excellent malmseys; they say they are better than those of Candia,but I have not been able to pronounce this judgment. The Ragusans produce a great quantity of wax, and also much fruit. Owing to the poverty of the country round, the peasants flock to the city on Saturdays and Sundays, and with what they bring earn a few bagattini.(1) I think that the concourse of people on this occasion was also due to the arrival of the galley full of pilgrims who bought a quantify of things, especially for eating and drinking. Nevertheless I could not see or taste good bread. The bread appears to me to be unleavened, made without raising material such as we use. The men of this city are generally handsome, and the younger they are the taller they seem to be; all, both old and young, and even the boys, wear togas in the Venetian fashion. There were crowds of them. Perhaps they made a special effort to show themselves to so many foreigners while the galley was there. In truth, they are very polite and pleasant to foreigners, at least in words. As far as I could judge from seeing their churches, they are very devout, and they give large subsides to the monks, especially to the observants and amongst the observants, especially to the Franciscan friars.

They are content with their Government or Signoria. This seems natural to me, because they are free, and do not pay tribute to other than the Turk. It is twenty thousand ducats, and before the end of the year it becomes twenty-five thousand, and this is every year -- in truth, they are near neighbours. Every year also they send a present of five hundred ducats to the King of Hungary, by whom they are protected. I could not discover that they have any other charges at present. They are occupied in building a port, which they intend to fortify,and in enlarging the moat of the said city on the land side. It will be a beautiful fortress when it is finished.

1. The "Battino," otherwise called the "danaro" or "piccolo," was a small piece of, copper money, first coined in Venice, according to Sanudo, in 1282. Its value depended on that of the "Soldo," of which it was a twelfth part. Twenty Soldi formed a Lira.

The women of Ragusa look very strange, because for the most part they wear a strange dress. I do not know how to describe it, but I can assure you that their dress is more than decent. For not only do they wear their dresses very high and cover themselves to the neck, but they have a certain thing which looks like the tail of a fat ram, which goes in front right under the chin and well over the hair behind. Considering the importance of the city, I saw, specially on the holiday, some beautiful women, though not many, but those I saw were very beautiful and well adorned with jewels. They were dressed in the fashion aforesaid and resplendent with gold and silver and pearls. They are pleased to be looked at even by foreigners; they go about, however, with the greatest modesty out of doors. From what I could hear they are not very fond of work or of gaining their living.

In truth, when I heard of the customs of the Ragusans, they all pleased me, except this, that not a man can keep wine in his house even though it is produced on his own property. When they want some, they must send for it to the tavern; and their women and servants, if they want it, must secretly do the same, and on that account also they are more lukewarm about working. Probably the Ragusans maintain this custom for some reason I could not divine, and perhaps if this custom were observed at Milan there would be fewer gouty people than there are there, both men and women.

The Signoria or free government of the Ragusans is administered thus: -- Every month they nominate a Governor, who lives in the palace, like the Doge at Venice. He does not go out of the palace during the said month save for urgent reasons; if,however,he is obliged to do so, he goes with eight pairs of pages before him and the other officials behind. There are ten Councillors who are always present when the aforesaid Governor holds audience, and what is decreed by the said ten is law. These ten hold office two years, and they have a secretary who writes down everything pertaining to the State; he is a Cremonese by birth, and enjoys great credit. It is a pleasing thing.

On Sunday, the 15th of June, I landed with the magnificent captain (because ever if we were in port I always returned to sleep on the galley), and accompanied him first to hear Mass in the Church of St. Francis. After Mass I went a short walk outside the city, and then I turned back to go on board the galley, but finding a great company I left them and went to the Cathedral Church to hear the sermon already begun by the Venerable Don Fra Francesco, who gave great satisfaction to the people by preaching that sermon, and they showed him so in fact by sending him a great quantity of presents. The sermon was very useful to those who understood it, because they are Sclavonians and I do not think that all understood the language. They know Latin well, but I do not think the women understood much; nevertheless the church was full. He took his subject from the Gospel of the day according to the use of the Court of Rome, which mentions how Jesus Christ entered the ship of Simon and prayed him "Ut reduceret eum a terra pusillum." 1 There he compared our faith and life to a ship, and spoke of what was needed in a ship, referring always to our galley, and he concluded by saying that whoever wished to be saved must enter with Christ in this ship. It was a beautiful discourse. I took away my part of it, for, amongst other things, he explained the reason why in the seven canonical hours, at the first hour and at compline, the shorter creed is said softly, and at the Mass it is said aloud -- and many other noteworthy things. When the sermon was over I went with him to the Franciscan Convent, and there I stayed with his companions to dinner; then I went back to the galley to write some letters home.

On Monday, the 16th of June, I said Mass in the sacristy of the said Franciscan Convent out of con- sideration for the aforesaid Don Fra Francesco, who felt rather fatigued. After the Mass -- while the magnificent captain sent the trumpet round to give notice to the pilgrims and galeotti that after dinner everyone must return to the galley because he intended to set sail -- I dined at the Franciscan Convent with the companions of the preacher. The dinner was very well prepared and with great hospitality by the friars. After dinner, with the permission of the aforesaid preacher, I entered a boat together with his companions and went to the Monastery of Santa Maria, belonging to the Order of Saint Benedict, which is built on a rock, as described above. On the way back I stopped at the galley, and his companions went to fetch the preacher and certain other friars who wished to come to Jerusalem. When every man had entered the galley we set sail at the seventeenth hour with little wind.

1. "That he would thrust out a little from the land." -- Luke, v. 3.