CANON PIETRO CASOLA'S PILGRIMAGE
TO JERUSALEM

IN THE YEAR 1494

BY

M. MARGARET NEWETT B.A.

Formerly Jones Fellow in History

MANCHESTER

AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS
1907

CHAPTER I.

Determination to undertake a Pilgrimage to Jerusalem.--Casola receives the Benediction from Archbishop Arcimboldi in the Cathedral at Milan, May 14th, 1494.--Leaves Milan, May 15th, and travels by Caravaggio, Calci, Brescia, Lonato, Peschiera, Verona, Vicenza, Padua to Venice, where he arrives May 20th.

MANY years ago, as I was invited by a citizen of Milan to accompany him at his expense on this holy voyage, I accepted very gladly. But afterwards the citizen named changed his mind, and gave up the idea of accomplishing what he had proposed; so I remained very doubtful in my mind, as my purse could not satisfy my new-born desire. Nevertheless a great longing always remained with me to visit those holy places beyond the sea, although in my youth I was unable to satisfy it, being continually hindered by some cause or other. Since, however, the most high God by His Grace, freed me in my old age from every impediment and provided me with all I needed, it seemed good to me to renew the determination to go on this holy voyage. And in order that I should have no opportunity of becoming lukewarm any more, I bound myself by a vow, two years ago, to go at all costs, although I was then between sixty and seventy years of age.

I began therefore to arrange to undertake the journey together with certain monks and fellow countrymen, so that I thought to have both a large and agreeable company. And as I always had fair words from them, I set about putting my affairs in order, so that if anything happened to me, they would not be left in confusion. But as the time of departure drew near, all my companions became indifferent as regards our project, so that at the beginning of this year I found that I must start alone, and I felt troubled. Nevertheless I turned again to the Most High God and prayed that He would not let me lose courage, and--although I was frustrated by the company -- that He would not let me lack the company given to Tobias when he wanted to go to Rages of the Medes.

As God sustained me in the resolution to accomplish this journey, I spoke much every day about my departure (although, because of my age, I was not believed); and all this I did to stir up some company if it were possible. But this time not a single Milanese could be found. I was not alarmed, however, on this account, and in order that I should be bound more straitly, and that I should not let myself be conquered by the enemy of human nature, not only did I preach the pilgrimage constantly throughout the city, but on Easter Day, when the people -- given into my care for the administration of the Sacraments -- were gathered together to receive the Holy Communion according to the general Commandment, I declared publicly that, God willing, after the Feast of the Ascension of Our Lord Jesus Christ, I intended to go to the Holy Sepulchre. At the same time, by means of friends in Venice, I informed myself as to the time of the departure of the galley, which usually goes on the voyage to the Holy Land, and prepared everything necessary for the journey, according to the instructions given me by those who had been there in previous years. Then, still finding myself alone, I resolved, as is the duty of all pilgrims, to furnish myself with spiritual weapons for my protection on the journey by land and by sea.

On the 14th of the month of May of the present year, which was a Wednesday, and the third day of the Rogations or Litanies, according to the Ambrosian ritual (Note 1), when the service was ended in the Cathedral Church of Milan (Note 2), in the presence of the people not a few, I went up to the high altar, where the most Reverend Lord, Don Guidantonio Arcimboldi, the most worthy Archbishop of Milan, stood, according to custom, to bless the people. And I begged his most Reverend Lordship to bless the emblems of my pilgrimage -- that is, the cross, the stick or pilgrim's staff, and the wallet -- and to bestow his blessing on me, according to the order and the ancient institution to be found written in the pastoral. Notwithstanding that he was very weary, because of the long office of the said Litanies, the said most Reverend Lord blessed me very graciously and with great solemnity in the sight of all the people, and gave me the emblems of my pilgrimage.

When the benediction was over, his Lordship embraced me with no ordinary tears, and kissing me most affectionately, left me with the peace of God, surrounded by a great crowd, from which I had some difficulty in separating myself, for everyone wanted to shake hands with me and kiss me. Nevertheless, as well as I could, I got away from the multitude, and shut myself in the Sacristy, where the Venerable Chapter of my Reverend brethren the Lord Canons was gathered together, of whom I took the most tender and loving farewell. Then I went home as secretly as I could, for at every step I had to stop, shake hands and kiss the company.

On Thursday, the 15th of May, after saying Mass at the altar of St. Ambrose (Note 3), our most glorious patron--where lies not only his sacred body, but also the bodies of the most glorious martyrs Protasius and Gervasius (Note 4), I returned home, that is, to Sancto Victore al Pozzo,(1) and took the necessary refection with certain of my dear friends. Then, leaving all the company, by the grace of God I began my journey on foot as a pilgrim, and visited on the way our principal Church.

From there I went to St. Dionysius,(2) where I found certain friends, who, contrary to my wish, were waiting for me. There I mounted on horseback, and thus we rode together as far as a village called Pioltella, where the greater number, yielding to my entreaties, saying "God keep you," turned back. With the rest I went that day to Caravaggio, a very fruitful place, though not indeed beautiful considering the number of gentlemen who live there, where I was lodged very honourably by the Magnificent Don Fermo dei Sichi.(3)

On Friday, the 16th of May, I remained in the said place, as I had been warned that on account of the rain during the night, the passage of a neighbouring torrent named the Cerro,(4) was not safe. In the morning, I went to the Chapel of our Lady of the Fountain, and there said Mass in honour of the aforesaid blessed Virgin.

On Saturday, the 17th of May, I continued my journey, and stopped to rest at a place called Calci, as I had been invited to do by the aforesaid Magnificent Don Fermo, who has large farms in the said place. After dinner was over I rode into Brescia, an ancient city built near a hill.

Amongst those who have written about its origin, I find a great variety of opinion, and therefore I leave the subject alone. I can say, however, with reason, that it is a very beautiful city, and strongly walled. It has a fine strong castle, situated on the summit of the said hill. In the city there are beautiful houses for the citizens, and so many artificers(1) of every kind that I almost seemed to see Milan. There is a beautiful palace elaborately adorned, where the Governors of the city live. It is well supplied with munition, and especially with land weapons of every kind; it is a thing worth seeing. The Loggia, begun in front of the Piazza, will be a beautiful sight when it is finished. There are many beautiful piazzas in the said city.

I visited the Cathedral Church, which, in comparison with the city, is not beautiful. As to the other churches, I saw nothing worthy of notice. In this city, however, I saw something very praiseworthy--that is, a large, long and ample space, very clean and well ordered, where the butchers are gathered together. The cleanliness and order gave me great pleasure, and there is an abundance of meat of every kind. The said place astounded me, because I had never seen the like anywhere else. Further on I saw a piazza full of fish of every sort. I used to think that only in the market at Milan could fish be found in such a great quantity.

I refrain from describing the fortifications which adorn the said city, because there are too many of them. Everything good can be said of the said city; and I must not pass over in silence the many pleasant fountains there--public ones in the piazzas and private ones in the houses. In truth I used to think that in Italy, Viterbo had the greatest number of fountains; now I have changed my opinion. He who called this city "Brixia Magnipotens" made no mistake, because it is so opulent. It was formerly held, together with the surrounding country, by whoever obtained the dominion of Milan;now it is subject to the Signoria of Venice.

On Sunday, the 18th of May, the day of Pentecost, called Pascha Roxata,(1) after hearing Mass, I took the road again, with two good rests--first at Lonato, and then at Peschiera. These are prosperous and beautiful places, little less than cities. They were formerly subject to the Lords of Gonzaga, as appears still from certain arms I saw on a tower at the entrance to the place. Finally, in the evening, I arrived at Verona.

To be brief, this is a large and long city, and beautiful considering that it is ancient. There are various opinions as to who built it, but in a few words it may be said that it has been the delightful habitation of remarkable men, because in it I saw many tall, beautiful and ornate palaces, and these seemed numberless to me, for it takes such a long time to pass through the said city that I became confused. At the present time, in building palaces and even ordinary houses, they delight in adding numerous balconies to the facades--some of iron, and some with little columns of white and delicate marble.

I also saw the Colosseum, now called the Arena, which is built, in my opinion, in the likeness of that at Rome, though it is in a better state of preservation. It is held in little honour, however, to judge by the filth it is deputed to receive.

It must be said that this has been, and now is, a magnificent city. I went to see some of the churches. It seems to me that; beginning with that of the mendicant friars, they are more sumptuous than our Milanese churches in every respect. I leave aside the one which never will be finished--that is, the Cathedral--and I speak of all the others. Another thing I must not omit to mention is the great magnificence of their funeral monuments--the ancient as well as the modern--so that it seems to me there is nothing to add.

I had better say nothing about the beauty given to the said city by the great river called the Adige, which passes through the centre, and is crossed by so many and such fine bridges, lest I should err in overpraising. There is a great abundance in the said city, though less than at Brescia. Formerly it was subject to various Lords, but now it is ruled by Governors, sent by the Signoria of Venice,(1) who have two beautiful palaces for their habitation. As I did not frequent the society of the inhabitants of Verona, I have nothing more to say. As I was there on a holiday, I saw many beautiful women, very handsomely dressed and adorned.

On Monday, the 19th of May, after hearing Mass at Verona, I directed my steps towards Vicenza, and arrived there early. According to the opinion of many people this city was first built by the Franks.(2) It is very fine, but not equal to Verona. I saw nothing very notable there except a palace opposite the inn where I lodged, which, however, is a fine building.

The said city has a great trade in silk. As I rode through the country I was shown the whole process of making the silk, which is very interesting. Very few other trees are to be found there save mulberry trees, which are stripped of their leaves to feed the worms that make the silk. I saw many women looking after the said worms, and they explained to me the great care they needed by day and by night. It was a very pleasant thing to me to see such a great quantity and in so many places.

On Tuesday, the 20th of May, I left Vicenza, and set out towards Padua. The road was disagreeable on account of heavy rain the night before; but at length I reached Padua, a very ancient city, which, according to the common belief, was built by the Trojan Antenor after the destruction of Troy.

The city is not only large, it is immense. I do not know why, but it pleased me less than the other places I had seen. I went about here and there to see what I could of it; but I did not find either palaces or houses worthy of its size or of the great reputation it has among Christian people. It seems to me that there are three cities, and when a man thinks he is outside, nevertheless he is then inside, and vice versa.

I saw the Cathedral. It did not appear to me worthy of the large income enjoyed by the Bishop and Canons of the said church. I saw the Church of Saint Anthony. It is a wonderful building, and very ornate, especially in the chapel, where the body of the said saint is honoured. There is a beautiful choir furnished with very beautiful stalls. There is a large convent of Franciscan friars who administer the said church. In front of the church there is a large piazza, in which the Signoria of Venice has placed a statue of Gattamelata of Narni on horseback (Note 5). He was formerly a good captain for the Venetians. I saw also the monument of the said Antenor, the builder of Padua (Note 6). It is impossible not to praise the said city, considering that, in the University maintained there, so many great and good men of so many nations have been educated. The city is abundantly supplied with victuals, from what I could learn.

After dinner I recommended my horse to the care of the innkeeper, as is the custom (Note 7), and entered the boat to go to Venice, where I arrived at the twenty-third hour.(1) I was taken by a courier to the house of the Caster Courier of the Milanese merchants, and went at once to rest, being too weary to seek the friends to whom I had letters of introduction. In truth, I was somewhat agitated--so much so indeed that, fearing I could not endure the sea, and yielding to the enemy of well-doing, I thought of turning back. Nevertheless God willed to lend me grace to accomplish this holy voyage in spite of my unworthiness. I was lodged very courteously by the said master of the couriers, and well treated by him. He understood my needs so well that in the morning I felt quite restored.

ON Wednesday, the 21st of May, I took one of the Milanese couriers to guide me about Venice, and went to the houses of the merchants for whom I had letters, and to each one I gave his own. Then, as I was afraid of not finding a place in the galley, I was immediately introduced to the Magnificent Don Agostino Contarini,(l) a Venetian patrician and captain of the Jaffa galley--thus the galley is named which carries the pilgrims going to Jerusalem--and he ordered my name to be written in the Pilgrims' Book.(2) At this time I found that I had been in too great a hurry to leave home, and that I must wait several days before the departure of the said galley.

In order that the tediousness of waiting should not make me desire to turn back and do as the children of Israel did when they went into the Promised Land, I determined to examine carefully the city of Venice, about which so much has been said and written, not only by learned men, but also by great scholars, that it appears to me there is nothing left to say. And I did this soley to amuse myself during the time I had to spend in such a great port. I wanted to see everything it was possible for me to see; and I was aided continually by the company given me by the Magnificent Doctor and Cavalier, the Lord Tadiolo de Vicomercato (Note 8), Ambassador to the aforesaid Signoria of Venice for our most illustrious Lord the Duke of Milan. I paid him a visit, as was my duty, as soon as I arrived, and from him, although I did not merit it, I received more than common attention.

Before going further, I must make my excuses to the readers of this my itinerary, if it should seem to them that I have overpraised this city of Venice. What I write is not written to win the goodwill of the Venetians, but to set down the truth. And I declare that it is impossible to tell or write fully of the beauty, the magnificence or the wealth of the city of Venice. Something indeed can be told and written to pass the time as I do, but it will be incredible to anyone who has not seen the city.

I do not think there is any city to which Venice, the city founded on the sea, can be compared; nevertheless I appeal always to the judgment of every person who has been there some time. Although this city is built entirely in the water and the marshes, yet it appears to me that whoever desires to do so can go everywhere on foot, as it is well kept and clean. Anyone, however, who does not want to endure the fatigue can go by water, and will be entreated to do so, and it will cost him less than he would spend elsewhere for the hire of a horse. As to the size of the city, I may say that it is so large, that, after being there so many days as I was, I made but little acquaintance with the streets. I cannot give the dimensions of this city, for it appears to me not one city alone but several cities placed together (Note 9).

I saw many beautiful palaces, beginning with the Palace of St. Mark, which is always inhabited by the Doge and his family (Note 10). The facade of the said palace has been renovated in part with a great display of gold; and a new flight of steps is being built there--a stupendous and costly work--by which to ascend to the said palace from the side of the Church of St. Mark. The lower portico on the ground floor is so well arranged that no more can be said; it is true, however, that it is spoiled by the prisons, which are not well placed there (Note 11). The portico, which goes round above, looks partly over the piazza, partly over the Grand Canal, partly over a small canal, and one part towards the Church of St. Mark, and all this portico has its columns of marble and other beautiful ornaments. In these porticos many Courts are established with their benches, and at every bench there are at least three assessors or hearers all together. At the time of the hearings many cries are heard there, as also happens at Milan at the Broletto (Note 12) at the time of the trials. Among the said tribunals there is that of the Lords of the Night (Note 13), who employ in their hearings the torment, called in our tongue the Curlo.(1)

Besides the other notable things in the said palace, I saw a very long hall whose walls are painted very ornately. And there is painted the story how Frederick Barbarossa drove away Pope Alexander the Fourth,(2) who fled in disguise to Venice, and was recognized in a monastery called the Monastery delta Carita (Note 14). The whole story is represented with such richness and naturalness in the figures that I think little could be added. The ceiling of the said hall is decorated with great gilded pictures. Seats are placed round the said hall, and in addition there are three rows of double seats, in the body of the hall, placed back to back. There are two magnificent gilded seats, one at each end of the said hall; I was told they were for seating the Doge, one for the winter, and the other for the summer. In this hall the Great Council is held--that is, the Council of all the gentlemen, who, it is said, are two thousand five hundred in number.

The Council called the Council of the Pregadi (Note 15) is held in another hall. I will say little about it because it is not adorned like the others. The hall where the Doge and his Councillors hold audience constantly is not very large, but it is magnificently decorated, with its gilded ceiling and its painted and storied walls. The throne on which sits the Doge, also called by the Venetians the "Prince," is all gilded and much higher than the others.

With regard to the magnificence and decoration of the habitation of the aforesaid Doge--as I have seen many other princely palaces in this our time both in Italy and abroad, beginning at Rome--I venture to say that it is the most beautiful in Italy. It is so rich in carved work and everything gilded, that it is a marvel. One of the pages of the aforesaid Doge showed me everything, beginning with the bed in which he sleeps, and proceeding even to the kitchen, and in my opinion nothing could be added. The decorations are not movable, but fixed. There is no lack of marble and porphyry and woodwork subtly carved, and all is of such a nature that one is never weary of looking.

The said palace is being renovated, and in the new part the arms of the immediate predecessors of the present prince are to be seen. But after seeing the said palace several times, especially after looking at the plan for the renovation, I hope the afresaid Venetian gentlemen (who want to have the reputation of never sparing expense in carrying out their will), who have commenced the restoration of the said palace will pardon me if I say, that they have done ill in not extended on the side I name, they will never be able to build courtyards worthy of the said palace. And the only reason for this is that they have not wanted to spend enough. Several gentlemen with whom I discussed the matter as we stood on the balcony of the said palace agreed with me.

I will not attempt to describe the number of large and beautiful palaces splendidly decorated and furnished, worth, some a hundred, some fifty, some thirty thousand ducats, and the owners of the same, because it would be too hard an undertaking for me, and better suited to someone who had to remain a long time in the said city of Venice. On the Grand Canal there is the most remark able beginning of a palace for the Sforza family, and for the honour of the Milanese I am very sorry it has not been finished (Note 16). For after seeing the said foundations, I am sure that the palace would be very magnificent if it were completed.

The said city, although it is in the water, as I said, has so many beautiful piazzas, beginning with that of St. Mark, that they would suffice for any great city placed on the mainland. It is a marvel to see how long and spacious they are. I have observed that the said city is so well ordered and arranged, that however much it rains, there is never any mud.

Something may be said about the quantity of merchandise in the said city (Note 17), although not nearly the whole truth, because it is inestimable. Indeed it seems as if all the world flocks there, and that human beings have concentrated there all their force for trading. I was taken to see various warehouses, beginning with that of the Germans (Note 18)--which it appears to me would suffice alone to supply all Italy with the goods that come and go--and so many others that it can be said they are innumerable. I see that the special products for which other cities are famous are all to be found there, and that what is sold elsewhere by the pound and the ounce is sold there by canthari(1) and sacks of a moggio(2) each. And who could count the many shops so well furnished that they also seem warehouses, with so many cloths of every make--tapestry, brocades and hangings of every design, carpets of every sort, camlets of every colour and texture, silks of every kind; and so many warehouses full of spices, groceries and drugs, and so much beautiful white wax! These things stupefy the beholder, and cannot be fully described to those who have not seen them. Though I wished to see everything, I saw only a part, and even that by forcing myself to see all I could.

As to the abundance of the victuals, I can testify that I do not believe there is a city in Italy better supplied than this with every kind of victuals. This time my own city, which I used to think the most abundant, must forgive me, and so too all the other-cities in Italy and also abroad where I have been, because, whether it is due to the good order or other cause I do not know, but I never saw such a quantity of provisions elsewhere.

I went to the place where the flour is sold wholesale;(1) the world at present does not contain such a remarkable thing. When I saw such abundance and beauty around me I was confused. The bakers' shops,(2) which are to be found in one place specially, namely, the piazza of St. Mark, and also throughout the city, are countless and of incredible beauty; there is bread the sight of which tempts even a man who is surfeited to eat again. In my judgment Venice has not its equal for this.

With the meat they give a great piece of bone. When I saw the place where the meat(3) is sold, I thought I had never seen such a miserable place in any city, or more wretched meat to look at. It drives away the wish to buy. I do not know the reason for this, unless it be that the Venetians are so occupied with their merchandise, that, they do not trouble much about what they eat. It is enough to say that in that place you could not have a good and fine--looking piece of meat whatever you were willing to pay, or at least in the quantity to be had at Milan.

For the time of year I was there, there seemed to be a great abundance of fowls and other kinds of eatable birds, though they were somewhat dear. There was a great abundance of cheese or caxi,(4) and butter--more, I can assure you, than at Milan, which ought to be the great centre for these things, and which used to be.

It is superfluous to try and recount the daily abundance of fish, especially in two places --at St. Mark's and at the Rialto, as it is commonly called. There is never a dearth of fish, though in truth, as to the excellence of the quality, it is not on a level with that of certain other cities. All the time I was there I never saw a fine fish and never ate a good one, although my hosts took great trouble to procure good fish.

As to the fruit. During the time I was awaiting the departure of the galley --not having anything else to do--I went several times very early in the morning to St. Mark's, and also to the Rialto, to watch the unloading of the boats which arrived from time to time. There were so many boats full of big beans, peas and cherries--not indeed of every kind as at Milan, but every day in such quantity, that is seemed as if all the gardens of the world must be there. The number was so great that I declare that after seeing them, when I turned my back I hardly believed my eyes. There is an abundant supply of good vegetables of every kind--verdure, as we say--and they are cheaper than in any place I ever visited. I heard that they come from a distance of twenty-five miles.(1) I went several times in the morning to watch the unloading of the boats, and the vegetables looked as if just taken from the gardens and very fresh. I know it is difficult for anyone who has not seen these things to believe what I say, because I have fallen into the same error myself--that is, I used not to believe what was told me about them.

I may recount the abundance of wine of every sort--so much malmsey, so many muscatel wines, Greek wines, white wines of every kind and also red wines,--but it is almost incredible. Although they are not so perfect as ours, nevertheless they are good --I speak of the red wines--and owing to the heavy duties they are dear. I wanted to count the wine shops of every kind, but the more I counted the more I became confused, for they are indeed innumerable.

One thing only appears to me hard in this city; that is, that although the people are placed in the water up to the mouth they often suffer from thirst, and they have to beg good water for drinking and for cooking, especially in the summer time. It is true that there are many cisterns(1) for collecting the rain water (Note 19), and also water is sold in large boatloads--water from the river called the Brenta, which flows near Padua. In this way indeed they provide for their needs, but with difficulty and expense, and the people cannot make such a business of washing clothes with fresh water as is done elsewhere.

The splendour of the edifices, especially the public buildings, may be described by one who has examined them carefully, but it is hard of belief for anyone who has not seen such a quantity of marble of every kind and colour, and so well carved that it is a marvel. They carve wood of all kinds so well and produce such natural figures, that a man passing by without considering what they are will mistake them for living persons.

While I was thus anxiously waiting for the time of departure, which was put off from day to day, I heard of the arrival, a few days before me, of the venerable religious and most remarkable evangelist of the Word of God, Don Frate Francesco Trivulzio (Note 20), belonging to the order of the observants of St. Francis, and of Frate Michele of Como, who came with him. They had been joined in Ferrara by Giovanni Simone Fornaro of Pavia (Note 21), and Giovanni Luchino of Castelnuovo, and I hoped to be added to the company. So, in order to discharge my duty to the fatherland, and also to his exceptional virtues, I paid him a visit and gave him to understand that, like him, I intended to go on the voyage to the Holy Land. We became good friends at once, and to while away the tedious time of waiting for the day of departure, we arranged to visit certain monasteries much talked about in Venice.

1. That is the wells or Pozzi.

THE first visit we paid was to the Monastery of Sant' Elena, belonging to the Camaldolese Order (Note 22). As far as we could learn it was first built and endowed by a certain Alessandro Borromeo, who has a splendid tomb in a chapel at the side of the church. The body of Saint Helena was shown to us and many other relics. The church is beautiful, and has a choir adorned with very magnificent stalls, in which pictures are inlaid representing all the cities under the dominion of the Venetians; it is a most beautiful piece of work. The monastery is as beautiful as could be described.

I visited the monastery of Sant 'Antonio of the Order of Monte Oliveto (Note 23); it is so beautiful that it lacks nothing. The church is beautiful, and in the said church there is a very wonderful thing --a Christ taken down from the Cross and placed in the lap of our Lady, with the Maries at the side, St. John, Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus. It is sculptured with such art and genius that, setting aside the figure of Christ, all the others seem more alive the nearer you approach them. Then I saw the Monastery of San Cristoforo of the Order of the Eremitani (Note 24). I did not see there anything much worth mentioning except the process of making white wax in one of the gardens; indeed, there was such a quantity that it seemed to me it ought to suffice for all the world. I saw the Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore (Note 25)

of the Order of Santa Justina, which is too beautiful to be in the place where it is. It appears to me that the monks have begun a most stupendous thing. I visited the Monastery of Sant' Andrea (Note 26) of the Carthusian Order, which is beautiful and well ordered. The monks are re-building their church, which will be very fine when it is finished. I saw the Monastery of San Francesco delle Vigne (Note 27), where the aforesaid Don Frate Francesco was lodged; it is a most notable place.

The Monastery of the Conventual friars of Saint Francis is beautiful (Note 28). Their church is very ornate in the choir and everywhere else. In the principal chapel there are two very splendid tombs, one opposite the other, to two Doges, Foscari(1) and Trono.(2) In the said church there is also--a chapel dedicated to Saint Ambrose, set apart for the use of the Milanese, who hold their congregation or school at the side of the said church.

I visited the Church and Monastery of Santa Maria dei Servi (Note 29), a most remarkable place. The natives of Lucca have their chapel at the side, and they make a great festival on the day of the Corpus Domini. I visited the Monastery della Carita (Note 14), belonging to the Order of the regular Canons of Saint Augustine, and also another belonging to the said Order called San Salvatore.(1) In the said Monastery of Santa Maria,(2) belonging to the Carmelites, and also so many that it would take too long to write about them all: --San Nicolo del Lido (Note 30), San Giorgio in Alga (Note 31), Santa Maria dell 'Orto (Note 32),--the last two are both of the same Order.

As I had heard a great deal about certain Monasteries for women, I went--also in company--to visit a few of them, especially the Convent of San Zaccaria (Note 33). There are many women there, both young and old, and they let themselves be seen very willingly. They have a beautiful new church and many relics in the altar. I think it is their first church, because they have their choir there. They are said to be very rich, and they do not trouble much about being seen. Another is called the Convent of the Virgins (Note 34). There are many women there, and they are rich. It is said that only Venetian women are received as nuns there. They have a beautiful church with the choir in a prominent position There is another Convent of the " Donne Zelestre " (Note 35). I went to see it, and found that the nuns dress in white. In addition to these there are many other convents(3) in which there are women who are secluded and to be secluded (Note 36). I will leave them to attend to another matter, because I must descend to most special praise of these Venetian gentlemen.

I have been to Rome, the chief city of the world, and I have travelled in Italy, and also very much outside of Italy, and I must say--though I do not say it to disparage anyone, but only to tell the truth-- that I have not found in any city so many beautiful and ornate churches as there are in Venice. It would take too long to name them all; nevertheless I will mention one or two, especially of those I saw.

The patriarchal Church or Cathedral is called the Church of San Pietro.(1) It has not many ornaments. I think that Saint Mark, who was his disciple, must have stolen them. The Church of Saint Mark, who was the disciple of Saint Peter, at first sight seems a small thing, but the man who examines and considers everything about it carefully, will find that it is a grand church. I think it has no equal, adorned as it is within and without with so many beatiful and subtle mosaics. It would take too long to describe the beauty of the facade and the doors--beginning with the four horses in metal which are over the great door,--and so many rows of columns on every side. Suffice it to say that for its size it is one of the most beautiful Christian churches. The campanile is separate from the said church, and the piazza is in front of it. I cannot estimate the value of the great treasure in relics, and of the pala of the altar; it seems to me infinite. The church is adorned with two large and beautiful organs, one on the right side and the other on the left of the high altar. It is excellently served by singers and priests furnished with beautiful vestments, as is becoming to the city and the pace. They say it is the chapel of the Prince, and therefore cannot be too rich or too ornate.

I am afraid in particular to speak of the beauty and decorations of the parochial churches, otherwise called in the Venetian speech " Plebanie," because I could not give the details without offending someone, especially at Milan. I will only say, speaking generally, that the poorest parish church of Venice is more ornate than the finest at Milan. Almost all the Venetian churches--the parish churches I mean--have a beautiful choir and an organ, and no expense is spared to decorate them; everything is gilded, and they are well served. This makes me think strongly that the Venetians must be greatly aided by God in all their affairs, because they are very solicitous with regard to divine worship in all their churches (Note 37).

As I said above, there are all sorts of monks and nuns in the city who have beautiful churches and monasteries. The Order of Saint Dominic, which I have not mentioned above, has a church called San Giovanni e Paolo (Note 38). It appears to me so beautiful that nothing could be added. It is large and lofty, its pavement is all in white and red squares; it has a beautiful organ, and the choir has stalls on which neither gold nor carving has been spared. In that church, in splendid tombs, many princes or Doges of Venice and other remarkable persons belonging to various families have been buried. At the side of the said church there is a school of laymen, called the Scuola di San Marco. The facade is very beautiful and richly adorned with marbles and gold, and the decoration inside is worthy of the outside. I will explain what the said school is another time. The monastery, being ancient, has not the pleasing aspect of the modern ones. There is also a church dedicated to Saint Dominic (Note 39) where the observant friars are established. The monastery is beautiful and adorned with all it needs.

It appears to me that I should now make an end of praising the city as regards its churches, and leave the rest for another. As, however, I several times visited a church called Our Lady of the Miracles (Note 40), which is a handsome building, especially outside, I will say a little about it. The said church is a great object of devotion in Venice, and was built with the daily offerings, which are administered by certain gentlemen. There is a convent there for nuns belonging to the Order of St. Clara. I heard from several men worthy of credence that since the said church was begun only a few years ago, the offerings have amounted to over forty thousand ducats.

I saw many other things worthy of record, but I will omit them for fear of wearying my readers too much. Nevertheless, having been several times to the Arsenal, as it is called (Note 41), which is an almost incredible thing to one who has not seen it, I will say a few words about it.

I may mention briefly that it is a large place surrounded by walls as if it were a fortress, where so much water enters that every galley, large and small, can go in and out. In the first place, it is a marvel to see so many long halls arranged with perfect order and full of munition for the equipment of the galleys and the navi--covered and uncovered cuirasses,(1) swords, rarnghoni, (sic) crossbows, bows, large and small arrows, headpieces, arquebuses, and other artillery suitable for the purpose. In short, it appears as if all the munition of the world for furnishing galleys and navi(2) were collected there. Then there are three large sheds, Cassine,(3) as we say--and one much bigger than the others--where the galleys are placed all together to preserve them when they are lifted out of the water, and also when they are new.

One of the Cassine has eighteen divisions, which are so large that under each one of them there was a large galley and a small one. Under another cassina of twenty compartment; and under the other cassine there were other ships(1) of different kinds, and both large and small.

In one part of the Arsenal there was a great crowd of masters and workmen who do nothing but build galleys or other ships of every kind. There are also masters continually occupied in making crossbows, bows and large and small arrows; and all by order of the Signoria.(2) In one great covered place there are twelve masters each one with his own workmen and his forge apart; and they labour continually making anchors and every other kind of iron-work necessary for the galleys and other ships. There seems to be there all the iron that could be dug out of all the mountains of the world. Then there is a large and spacious room where there are many women who do nothing but make sails.

Within the walls of the said Arsenal, above the water which enters, there is a most beautiful contrivance for lifting any large galley or other ship out of the water, with little fatigue, and also if necessary for putting it back again. Outside the said Arsenal, but near the walls, there is a place where they make all the ropes used at sea on the galleys and all the other ships--that is, the cables which the Venetians call "gomene" and every sort of rope. It is a place all covered below, and so long that I could hardly see from one end to the other. The number of masters and workmen who are constantly employed there is amazing. No one would buy ropes of importance, especially those for casting the anchors, anywhere else than there, because there are certain officers whose duty it is to give guarantees of their quality. And there are certain persons who sort the hemp when it is brought in.

This Arsenal has many officials, and two gentlemen are at the head. These principals told me that every Saturday the Signoria(l) paid out at the least one thousand two hundred ducats, and sometimes more, for the labour and work done in the said Arsenal. They have already built the main walls of another Arsenal which will be a fine place when it is finished.

I fatigued myself very much by trying to find out if possible --and with the aid of people very familiar with Venice and the surrounding places--the number of all the ships, both large and small, to be found in Venice, beginning with the boats otherwise called gondolas, up to the largest nave and galley in the Grand Canal. I commenced the work; but, although the days were long, because it was the month of May, I found it was no task for me any more than for Saint Augustine --as they recount-- to write about the Trinity (Note 42), for the number is infinite. I find also that it is a great expense for the inhabitants of Venice, because almost every citizen keeps at least one gondola, which costs at the lowest fifteen ducats, and is a greater expense to maintain than a horse. I leave alone those who keep large and small boats for gain, by crossing the ferries or letting them out on hire. I leave out also the galleys and navi for navigating long distances because they are numberless. When I inquired of experienced persons who have seen many maritime cities which are great seaports, they told me that there is no city equal to Venice as regards the number of the ships and the grandeur of the port, and this I can fully believe.

Having abandoned the business of counting the ships, I accompanied the Venerable Don Frate Francesco Trivulzio to Murano, a place situated in the sea by itself, although it is a part of Venice. There are many furnaces there for making glass, and work in glass of every colour is carried on there constantly. All the beautiful glass vases which are taken throughout the world are made there. I stood to watch the work at the various furnaces, and I saw, above everything else a glass chalice, the price of which was ten ducats. It was noble and very subtly worked, but I would not touch it, fearing it might fall out of my hand.

In the said Murano there are seven convents for women, and amongst them, one, where building is continually going on by order of the present Doge the Lord Agostino Barbarigo, who has two of his daughters in the said convent.(1) Much more might be said about the said place and its beauty and pleasantness and how it is situated in the water and has beautiful gardens, but I will leave something for another to say. I cannot refrain from repeating, however, that there is nothing which astonished me more in this city built on the water, than the sight of the many beautiful gardens there are there, especially in the monasteries of every Order.

As the day of our departure was drawing near, I determined to leave everything else and study the owners of the many beautiful things I have noted--that is, the Venetian gentlemen, who give themselves this title. I have considered the qualities of these Venetian gentlemen. For the most part they are tall, handsome men, astute and very subtle in their dealings, and whoever has to do business with them must keep his eyes and ears well open.

They are proud --I think this is on account of their great dominions--and when a son is born to a Venetian gentleman they say themselves, " A Lord is born into the world."(1) They are frugal and very modest in their manner of living at home; outside the house they are very liberal.

The city of Venice preserves its ancient fashion of dress --which never changes--that is, a long garment of any colour that is preferred. No one would leave the house by day if he were not dressed in this long garment, and for the most part in black. They have so observed this custom, that the individuals of every nation in the world--which has a settlement in Venice--all adopt this style, from the greatest to the least, beginning with the gentlemen, down to the sailors and galeotti (Note 43). Certainly it is a dress which inspires confidence, and is very dignified.(2) The wearers all seem to be doctors in law, and if a man should appear out of the house without his toga, he would be thought mad. The Milanese do the same, except, that if a lark, from one hour to the other, should come from the ends of the earth and bring some new fashion in dress, all, or the majority, both of those who can afford it and those who cannot, would want to follow the fashion; so that a Milanese cannot be distinguished from a Spaniard. I need say no more.

When the Venetian gentlemen take office or go on some embassy, they wear very splendid garments; in truth, they could not be more magnificent. They are of scarlet, of velvet, of brocade, if the wearers hold high office; and all the linings of every kind are very costly. In order not to praise the Venetian gentlemen at too great length, I want to mention one thing more which pleased me very much, and that is, that they keep all their offices and profits for themselves, and do not give them to strangers except in the case of the first Secretary (Note 44), who is not a Venetian.(1) The other offices they distribute among themselves.

Their women appear to me to be small for the most part, because if they were not, they would not wear their shoes --otherwise called pianelle--as high as they do. For in truth I saw some pairs of them sold, and also for sale, that were at least half a Milanese braccio(2) in height. They were so high indeed that when they wear them, some women appear giants; and certain also are not safe from falling as they walk, unless they are well supported by their slaves. As to the adornment of their heads, they wear their hair so much curled over their eyes that, at first sight, they appear rather men than women.(3) The greater part is false hair; and this I know for certain because I saw quantities of it on poles, sold by peasants in the Piazza San Marco. Further, I inquired about it, pretending to wish to buy some, although I had a beard both long and white.(4)

These Venetian women, especially the pretty ones, try as much as possible in public to show their chests--I mean the breasts and shoulders--so much so, that several times when I saw them I marvelled that their clothes did not fall off their backs. Those who can afford it, and also those who cannot, dress very splendidly, and have magnificent jewels and pearls in the trimming round their collars.

1. Casola means evidently not a Venetian Patrician.
2. The Milanese braccio =.594936 metres, or just over half a metre.
3. A glance at the pictures of Carpaccio and Gentile Belllni shows that it was the fashion then for the men to wear their hair cut over their foreheads, while the women wore theirs smoothed back and knotted behind.
4. In his portrait Casola is represented as clean shaven. He had allowed his beard to grow, as was the custom for obvious reasons, before starting on his pilgrimage.

They wear many rings on their fingers with great balass rubies,(1) rubies and diamonds. I said also those who cannot afford it, because I was told that many of them hire these things. They paint their faces a great deal, and also the other parts they show, in order to appear more beautiful. The general run of the women who go out of the house,(2) and who are not amongst the number of the pretty girls, go out well covered up and dressed for the most part in black even up to the head, especially in church. At first I thought they were all widows, and sometimes on entering a church at the service time I seemed to see so many nuns of the Benedictine Order. The marriageable girls dress in the same way, but one cannot see their faces for all the world. They go about so completely covered up, that I do not know how they can see to go along the streets. Above all--at least indoors--these Venetian women, both high and low, have pleasure in being seen and looked at; they are not afraid of the flies biting them, and therefore they are in no great hurry to cover themselves if a man comes upon them unexpectedly. I observed that they do not spend too much in shawls to cover their shoulders. Perhaps this custom pleases others; it does not please me. I am a priest in the way of the saints, and I had no wish to inquire further into their lives. I thought it my duty, as I said above, to seek out the churches and monasteries and go and see the relics which are very numerous; and this seemed to me a meritorious work for a pilgrim who was awaiting the departure of the galley to go to the Holy Sepulchre--thus finishing the time as well as I could.

1. The balass ruby is becoming now more and more rare. It was much used and appreciated in medieval Venice, and is frequently mentioned in inventories, wills, &c. In value it ranks after the oriental ruby, and before the Spinel and the Siamese ruby.
2. That is women belonging to the class of the "Popolo."